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Old 11-08-2011, 03:27 PM   #56536
thumpididump
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Was it the link to the All Balls Bearings fork conversion chart? Someone posted it somewhere in this thread a few days ago, I think.

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconvertion




Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I have been searching for hours over the past few days (really!) to find a post that listed stock fork sizes for common (dirt?) bikes.
I don't remember what thread, or even what forum I read it in....
I thought it was in here though.

Does anyone recall seeing it?
AND, do you remember where you saw it?

It was a LONG post listing dozens, if not hundreds, of bikes by fork diameters.
I don't remember if it listed other dimensions, all I recall was diameters.
I have tried searching using every term I could think of and I am getting nowhere in any thread or forum.
Seems to me it was in a discussion of fork swapping...
Since this thread is one of my daily reads I have tried here as well as Thumpertalk and other DR650 sites.

One of those things that we read and think "that is really interesting and useful" and then forget to save it somewhere for when we want it.

Or maybe I am the only one who forgets everything...

Uh, never mind. Dumbhead finally thought to search on Google and instantly hit multiple sites with the chart....
Thank you for your time, now we may get back to the regular discussion of pilot jets: "to clean or not to clean, that is the question..."
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:56 PM   #56537
TRAVELGUY
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Motolab I have enjoyed your post very much. You have added a lot of very valuable information. I have enjoyed and learned from everyone of them, thanks. In the 60's I have been known to solder a jet and redrill, also reshape needles, to get the performance I wanted for my motox bikes. Since I travel to third world countries now and have lived off my bike for months at a time my interest is more into reliablity and fixability then utimate performance. The stock motor and carb on the DR650 far surpass it's suspension. For my type of use and travel a "stoneage" bike is better. I just want a bike or two left on the market that can be repaired with items from a hardware store.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
FI is great. The existing maps may not be perfect, but unlike a carbureted bike, with FI at least the possibility exists to make the mixture correct at every intersection of throttle position and rpm. Because of the high resolution, it's potentially a lot of work, but you don't have to worry about overlap between circuits, gasoline spills or multiple disasemblies/reassemblies.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:09 PM   #56538
blk-betty
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Handlebars

New DR owner with a dumb question about oversized bars.

The info from the Pro Cycle site indicates stock controls work with "their" oversize bar which appear to be a Fly Racing product.

Do the stock controls work with all oversized bars. I assume the bar mounts themselves would need to be larger but I'm interested in the mounts for the mirrors, clutch, brake and throttle controls.

Looking for a bar that gives a little more rise and pull back than the OEM so that bar risers are not needed but don't want to buy one and find out after the fact that I need more stuff to make it work.
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:25 PM   #56539
Rusty Rocket
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does anyone remember the link for all the handlebar dimensions comparison chart?
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #56540
dukegnarley
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Hey all,

Winter is right around the corner and I'm planning to mess around a bit with the dr while the roads are icy.

I'm looking to do a fork swap and was wondering how much better newer '06 or '07 ish RMZ forks would be than a '99 WR400F fork. I already have the yamaha fork and I know it will fit, I'm just wondering if it would be worth it to sell it and get one from an RMZ.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:18 PM   #56541
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
does anyone remember the link for all the handlebar dimensions comparison chart?

I found this http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=634120&page=2

see last post...but still can't find an answer to my question.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:07 PM   #56542
greer
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My understanding is that over-size bars require a mount, as you said, but taper back down to 7/8" to fit stock controls.

Sarah
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:17 PM   #56543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
My understanding is that over-size bars require a mount, as you said, but taper back down to 7/8" to fit stock controls.

Sarah
Thanks Sarah.....that's what I assumed but wanted clarification before I ordered a new bar.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:39 PM   #56544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
For my type of use and travel a "stoneage" bike is better. I just want a bike or two left on the market that can be repaired with items from a hardware store.
10-4! Makes sense...

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:39 PM   #56545
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Wicked Cogent group buy

Putting to gether an ADV group buy for the cogent shock upgrade.
Good chance to save $$ on the hard coat $45 instead of $125 if you go it on your own.

Chime in here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=24

Lets get started on the off season upgrades.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:38 PM   #56546
LexTalionis
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Derek,

Thank you for taking the time to educate me.


Originally Posted by LexTalionis
However, I'm unsure just where this pilot jet resides, and how to get it out. ronayers.com shows a pilot jet in the fiche, but not where it fits into the carb. I looked at "The BST-40 Bible" and there's no mention of a pilot jet; there is mention of an idle jet.

Motolab:
Have a look at www.advrider.com/forums/searc...rchid=10680148. If you search for the term "pilot jet" within the results using your browser's "find" function, you will notice that the term actually appears in the BST40 bible thread a number of times.


Lex:
I clicked on your URL and got this from ADVrider:
D'oh... Our sucky search engine couldn't handle that term. Got Google?

So I went back to my archived copy of the BST-40 Bible and got the correct URL:
www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

I did not save the entire thread, and so did not search others’ response to the OP prior to posting my queries.

Just now I looked through the thread briefly, not using a search function, and found at post #41 the term “idle jet” and what I take to be a pic of a “pilot jet.” Post #44 provides a line drawing of what is called a “pilot jet.”

I then did a search for “pilot jet” and did find the two words in the Bible under “Jetting the BST-40”, however did not see any pic nor where it is located in the carb. My previous search did not extend past the disassembled parts of the carb, so I missed the words – though, the words did not educate me at all as the OP did not indicate any part in his pics by the name “pilot jet.”

The microfiche at ronayers.com, assumed to have been provided by Suzuki, shows a pilot jet but no idle jet.

You can see my, and others’, confusion. This is very interesting to me in light of my sticking up for you in post #56291 regarding proper nomenclature.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by LexTalionis
To get out in front of an answer, I'm guessing the idle jet in the Bible is what we call the pilot jet, and the float needs to be removed to access it from the interior underside of the carb body. Correct?

Motolab:
Yes. The float cage will need to be removed. Looking at the underside of the carb, the pilot jet can then be found in a well downstream and to the left of the main jet.

Lex:
If I have to remove the float assembly to get at the pilot jet, I’m replacing it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by LexTalionis
And so, what does the F/A screw, screw into if not a jet? Just a conical area in the carb body? A conical brass fitting in the carb body?

Motolab:
The idle mixture screw, aka pilot screw (which is in this case a fuel screw) screws into a well on the downstream underside of the carb body. The tip protrudes into a tapered bore, which exits in the throat of the carb just downstream of the edge of the butterfly. As delivered, the fuel screw well has a metal plug installed in order to prevent "tampering" (at least in the US).

Lex:
Yes, getting at the F/A screw is well known to me from fixing the carburetion on many bikes: “needing to fatten up the fuel/air mixture to overcome EPA-mandated leanness - my DR was the worst in that regard.” I had always thought the F/A screw screwed into the pilot jet until reading the BST-40 Bible, and then I thought certainly it screwed into a brass fitting pressed into the carb body, but you say it’s just a drilled-out and tapped hole. I love learning new stuff.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Motolab:
As delivered, the fuel screw well has a metal plug installed in order to prevent "tampering" (at least in the US).


Lex:
You may find it interesting that the Valkyrie's six carbs are not provided with a lead plug over the F/A mixture screw. Rather, the screw head is a "D" shape and apparently the EPA or Honda, or both, feel this is sufficient deterrent to access. Of course, my MotionPro tool has that bit.


Thanks for the education,
Lex
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:50 PM   #56547
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lower altitude- better MPG?

Moved from 5,200 feet to 2,000 feet elevation. Getting better MPG now. Is this common? feels a little more powerful as well, not sure if it is just my imagination or realized power, but feels that way. Thicker air have anything to do with it?

Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:02 PM   #56548
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
I clicked on your URL and got this from ADVrider:
D'oh... Our sucky search engine couldn't handle that term. Got Google?
Sorry the link didn't work.
Quote:
You can see my, and others’, confusion. This is very interesting to me in light of my sticking up for you in post #56291 regarding proper nomenclature.
Personally, I prefer the term "pilot jet", but "idle jet" is not an incorrect term. I see how one might wish for a standardized name, but in reality not too much harm is done from using these interchangeably. The times when I am concerned is when terms are actually misleading.
Quote:
If I have to remove the float assembly to get at the pilot jet, I’m replacing it.
Probably no need to do that. The only parts that typically go wrong with the float assembly are the float needle, needle seat o-ring, and cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring. These parts are also quite a bit cheaper than the float assembly.
Quote:
Yes, getting at the F/A screw is well known to me from fixing the carburetion on many bikes
I hate to do this to you, but the term "F/A screw" is actually one I would recommend against using, as it's an amalgam of two separate and distinct terms (just like "float level"). The BST40 carb's pilot screw/idle mixture screw is a fuel screw, which is unscrewed to richen and screwed in to lean. There are also carbs that use air screws to control the idle mixture, in which case the screw is unscrewed to lean and screwed in richen.
Quote:
You may find it interesting that the Valkyrie's six carbs are not provided with a lead plug over the F/A mixture screw. Rather, the screw head is a "D" shape and apparently the EPA or Honda, or both, feel this is sufficient deterrent to access.
Yes, most CV-carbureted Hondas from some time in the '80s forward use fuel screws with those D-shaped heads.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:03 PM   #56549
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Moved from 5,200 feet to 2,000 feet elevation. Getting better MPG now. Is this common? feels a little more powerful as well, not sure if it is just my imagination or realized power, but feels that way. Thicker air have anything to do with it?
Probably does.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:44 AM   #56550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sourjon View Post
I've got an opportunity to pick this bike up at a sweet price and wanted to be sure there weren't any well known problems like the 08 KLR oil burning problem. I can deal with some bad gas and a stuffed jet.
John
The carb would be my least concern on the DR if I were looking at a used one. Of course you don't want to hassle with one, but in reality (IMHO) it is really pretty trouble free even though it gets a lot of comments on here sometimes, and is easily repaired if needed.

I would be more concerned with some of the more serious conditions that sometimes crop up:
Look at the upper chain roller. Ideally it has been removed and the screw hole filled with silicone or a screw. Worst case the chain removed it and there will be a big hole in the frame.
Also note the base gasket, as earlier ones (not sure what years, sorry) were paper and more suseptible to leakage.
There was also a year or two (98,99 I think )where the starter idler gear could cause catastrophic damage to the motor if the engine kicked back.
And of course the neutral sending unit (have to remove clutch cover) should be removed at some point.

These are all well documented and a little searching can get you more specifics. Anyway, sorry if repeating info you already got, it is hard to keep track on this thread as to what got said.

Good luck!
Edit: Just realized you are looking at a 2009 --- so you can forget about worrying about base gasket and starter, But get that chain roller off !!!!!

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