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Old 11-09-2011, 07:33 AM   #56596
Rumlover
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Upper chain Roller

Also consider there have been dozens of examples of rollers that have been knocked off by the chain. And probably hundreds of people who have removed them, and to my knowledge not one incident of a chain coming off because of the removal. And there are plenty of hardcore dirt/trail riders who have removed it with no ill effect. If there was a problem with removing it, it would have been reported long ago.

Rumlover screwed with this post 11-09-2011 at 09:10 AM
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:36 AM   #56597
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
If you don't remove the upper roller, the chain will.
It leaves an nasty hole in the frame that can continue to crack until the frame has to be repaired.
I'm not as sure of this as the rest of you. I went 40,000 miles without any damage to the upper chain roller.

I finally removed it and replaced it with a set screw because A FEW OF YOU have had problems and I didn't want to tempt fate, but I'm not convinced that it happens all that often. Chain tension, wheelies and big jumps might make a difference here.

(I can see the flood of responses coming now )

..............shu
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:43 AM   #56598
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Moved from 5,200 feet to 2,000 feet elevation. Getting better MPG now. Is this common? feels a little more powerful as well, not sure if it is just my imagination or realized power, but feels that way. Thicker air have anything to do with it?

Thanks.
More oxygen, maybe a better cleaner burn, more power, less wrist to get the same job done? Yes, it's an fact you'll have more power at sea level than altitude; horsepower drops relative to altitude gain/oxygen available.
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:45 AM   #56599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I'm not as sure of this as the rest of you. I went 40,000 miles without any damage to the upper chain roller.

I finally removed it and replaced it with a set screw because A FEW OF YOU have had problems and I didn't want to tempt fate, but I'm not convinced that it happens all that often. Chain tension, wheelies and big jumps might make a difference here.

(I can see the flood of responses coming now )

..............shu

What, an opposing view??? That is unheard of here .
Surely you jest
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:08 AM   #56600
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
Use a google search of this thread and you will find pictures and comments.

Short version is that if your chain tension isn't loose enough you can rip the upper chain roller and it's mounting point where it is attached to the frame right off the bike. If you remove it, your chain doesn't need to be adjusted as loose, which makes it one of those 'Catch 22' (does anyone still remember what that meant?) things....
yes! everyone knows it means "damned if you do, damned if you don't". in the movie "catch 22", one of the pilots wanted to be grounded because he was going insane flying missions. and it was likely true - no sane person would willingly agree to put themselves in such egregious harms way. but, as soon as he goes to the clinic to report himself, it automatically proves he is in fact sane, and therefore, he must fly the missions.

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Old 11-09-2011, 08:12 AM   #56601
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I'm not as sure of this as the rest of you. I went 40,000 miles without any damage to the upper chain roller.

I finally removed it and replaced it with a set screw because A FEW OF YOU have had problems and I didn't want to tempt fate, but I'm not convinced that it happens all that often. Chain tension, wheelies and big jumps might make a difference here.

(I can see the flood of responses coming now )

..............shu
I do agree that if you keep the chain at proper tension (not to tight) the roller may never be an issue. But fully loaded on a rough trail.. you're taking your chances. Just sayin"
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:26 AM   #56602
tobster9
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torque

hi, does anyone know the correct torque for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs? im on a 09 dr, would like to know settings for other side as well, got a small leak and need to put her right before heading out.

thanks in advance
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:35 AM   #56603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
What, an opposing view??? That is unheard of here .
Surely you jest
He doesn't jest. And don't call him Shirley...
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:39 AM   #56604
GISdood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve View Post
Sorry, I guess I was a little rambling in my original question. Simply put, where DR650's are concerned, do folks always replace the rings AND pistons as a general rule or just the rings as necessary? I spend my time mostly on 2 strokes where you generally always replace the piston and rings together.
I've replaced rings twice on my DR with the same piston with no ill effects. When I bought my 2002 model with about 10,000km on the clock, it still had the paper base gasket which was leaking badly. I took it in to have the faulty gasket replaced and had the mechanic replace the rings while the top end was off.

Some 25,000km later, I decided the bike needed a bit of a freshening up and tore it down to the frame. I'd been experiencing the same blue smoke on cold starts that others were describing, but it went away after the bike warmed up and my overall oil consumption was negligible. Figured it had to be old, tired, hardened valve seals. I ordered the top end gasket/seal kit from ProCycle (along with a pile of other bike goodies, like new rings from my local dealer) and proceeded to take the engine out of the frame and strip the rest of the bike down. The top end was once again taken apart and new piston rings installed as part of the process.

Apart from the necessary break-in process after re-ringing the piston each time, there was no adverse effects, no drop in mileage, and no loss of power. As long as the piston/skirt look fine and there's no deformation or visible wear, I would say that there's no need to replace it just because you're installing new rings.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:44 AM   #56605
FatChance
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Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I finally removed it and replaced it with a set screw because A FEW OF YOU have had problems and I didn't want to tempt fate, but I'm not convinced that it happens all that often.
"all that often" is a very relative way of looking at this, especially if it happens to you. The top roller broke off my first (2000) DR650 just once and that was often enough for me! When I bought my current (2005) DR650, I took it off as soon as I rode the bike home from the dealer. So, the top roller only broke off on 50% of my DR650s, at least so far.
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FatChance screwed with this post 11-09-2011 at 08:49 AM
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:50 AM   #56606
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Cool2 Winter Shocker!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vorg View Post
Putting to gether an ADV group buy for the cogent shock upgrade.
Good chance to save $$ on the hard coat $45 instead of $125 if you go it on your own.

Chime in here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=24

Lets get started on the off season upgrades.
I missed out on the last group buy from Cogent because I didn't want to lose the use of my bike during our very short summer here in Alaska. But now is the time to do it. If anyone is thinking about upgrading to good suspension, consider doing it now. In the past, Rick at Cogent has offered group buy prices during the slow time in Nov/Dec.

If you are unfamiliar with Cogent, read the thread linked above. Start at the beginning to read what is involved and what others who have bought them think of it. If you want to skip the history lesson, start on page 21 for the last group buy info:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=21

And you can go directly to Cogent's DR650 page for more:
http://www.motocd.com/cd/index.php?o...ucts&Itemid=66

There are many ways to go when improving the suspension and is one of the best cost/benefits available according to those who have done it. There are less expensive options and I usually go that route. Then I spend more money going with what I should have in the beginning...

Chime in if you are interested and add your name on at the end of the thread above.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:58 AM   #56607
tobster9
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Question torque

can someone please dig up the torque setting for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs, i cant find it anywhere, got a small leak and scrabbling around to get my sh*t together before death valley tmrw,

thanks
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:29 AM   #56608
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GISdood View Post
I'd been experiencing the same blue smoke on cold starts that others were describing, but it went away after the bike warmed up and my overall oil consumption was negligible. Figured it had to be old, tired, hardened valve seals. I ordered the top end gasket/seal kit from ProCycle (along with a pile of other bike goodies, like new rings from my local dealer) and proceeded to take the engine out of the frame and strip the rest of the bike down. The top end was once again taken apart and new piston rings installed as part of the process.
How about letting us know the conditions of the old valve guide seals and whether your top end freshen up, cleared up the start up blue smoke and minimal oil consumption ?

Nice to hear you took it upon yourself, to work on the bike the 2nd time around.

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Old 11-09-2011, 09:30 AM   #56609
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
can someone please dig up the torque setting for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs, i cant find it anywhere, got a small leak and scrabbling around to get my sh*t together before death valley tmrw,

thanks
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:31 AM   #56610
vintagespeed
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Once again, your carburetor setup is outside the norm. Most riders who have tried the 45 pilot have reported a 'rich bog' just off idle that couldn't be tuned out without going back the the stock 42.5 pilot jet. Most bikes will even exhibit the off idle bog just turning the mixture screw much beyond 1.5 turns.
now i realize that i'm not a parts re-seller so my experience is given without any agenda....but yeah, bike runs great, no bog, no issues, pulls like a freight train.

i can't believe you would argue that a +2.5 change (very small) in pilot jet would be too rich, but using the DJ ultra-thin needle is fine.

the pilot jet change pales in comparison to the amount of fuel added by the DJ jet needle.

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vintagespeed screwed with this post 11-09-2011 at 09:44 AM Reason: wording re-worded.
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