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Old 11-09-2011, 03:37 PM   #56596
ER70S-2
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Talking

I got it. I'd bet he got it. Watch for these: Perfectly timed dry wit.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:39 PM   #56597
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
shu,
You know I was kidding (with my "surely you jest" comment) -- right?
I have always appreciated your input and found it very helpful.
The internet is not the greatest sometimes (at least for me) for getting across what I mean.
you did pretty good nailing that name
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:50 PM   #56598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I got it. I'd bet he got it.
Thanks, sometimes my sense of humor gets me in trouble
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:55 PM   #56599
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
shu,
You know I was kidding (with my "surely you jest" comment) -- right?
I have always appreciated your input and found it very helpful.
The internet is not the greatest sometimes (at least for me) for getting across what I mean.
Not offended in the least. Now back to carbs and F/A screws.

thanks..................shu
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:59 PM   #56600
Harpua
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alansz400 View Post
I was riding home last night after dark and looked at my header after going up a long hill it was glowing red. Has anyone else ever noticed theres doing that? Alan
non-issue. been discussed before... tho a common mod is to remove the header and grind down a big fat weld that's inside that tends to hang onto heat.
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #56601
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Not offended in the least. Now back to carbs and F/A screws.

thanks..................shu
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:17 PM   #56602
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Thanks, sometimes my sense of humor gets me in trouble.
It's not your sense of humor that's a problem, it's those without one.

Are your PMs off intentionally?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:31 PM   #56603
GISdood
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prince George, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
How about letting us know the conditions of the old valve guide seals and whether your top end freshen up, cleared up the start up blue smoke and minimal oil consumption ?

Nice to hear you took it upon yourself, to work on the bike the 2nd time around.

996DL
The old seals I took out didn't appear to be worn, degraded or cracked (sorry, didn't take photos as I was too busy referring to the repair manual diagrams - I may have them in a baggie at home still and will post photos if I can find them), but the rubber on them definitely felt hard and brittle compared to the new seals. Once it was all buttoned back up and broken in, there was no sign of blue smoke or smell of burning oil anymore.

Being that the rings only had about 25,000km on them when the top end came off for the second time, I doubt that they were the source of the burnt oil smell on startup, especially when considering that oil consumption was next to nothing.

My guess was that it was just a case of the seals hardening up over the years of cold winter storage. Several weeks of -30 to -40 celsius throughout the winter are not at all uncommon where I live, and the bike spends its winters in an unheated storage shed on my property. I can't imagine those kind of temperatures being too kind to seals of any sort over time.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #56604
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
thanks guys. looks like i have a paper gasket :( and my head gasket is leaking ...

debating a JE high comp piston vs just gasket replacement. is it advisable/worth it to run the JE without a new cam? Can a newb install it, including the cylinder wall deglaze? And finally, what is the process to remove old gasket material without damage?

The tab is a rivit holding the metal layers of the gasket together. Paper wouldn't have it.

Also, check your cam chain tensioner for the leak. Many here have had it leak and mine just started after 19K miles. Is making a nice moist area around the base gasket for dirt to stick to!!
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:40 PM   #56605
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
I have the same setup your employee has - cut box and stock exhaust. I have your kit installed with the suggested jet/needle position for cut airbox (don't know what the exact figures are but I went by your included suggestions). Pulls hard but has that off idle bog and low speed surging. Screw 2.5 turns out. What should I play with the dial it in? Needle position? Main jet? Pilot jet? Fuel screw?

I'm contemplating just ditching the stocker and going with your pumper....but the wallet is not fat enough at this time....
At 2.5 turns the idle mixture screw is probably too far out. Most riders are reporting about 1 turn out will clean up the off idle bog. To cure the low speed surging you might try lowering the clip (raising the needle) one position. Only make one change at a time, then test ride.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:44 PM   #56606
996DL
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Location: finally back in paradise...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GISdood View Post
The old seals I took out didn't appear to be worn, degraded or cracked (sorry, didn't take photos as I was too busy referring to the repair manual diagrams - I may have them in a baggie at home still and will post photos if I can find them), but the rubber on them definitely felt hard and brittle compared to the new seals. Once it was all buttoned back up and broken in, there was no sign of blue smoke or smell of burning oil anymore.

Being that the rings only had about 25,000km on them when the top end came off for the second time, I doubt that they were the source of the burnt oil smell on startup, especially when considering that oil consumption was next to nothing.

My guess was that it was just a case of the seals hardening up over the years of cold winter storage. Several weeks of -30 to -40 celsius throughout the winter are not at all uncommon where I live, and the bike spends its winters in an unheated storage shed on my property. I can't imagine those kind of temperatures being too kind to seals of any sort over time.
I doubt the original valve guide seals, were at all affected by our brutal Canadian winter's temps, normally it's strictly just heat related degradation and possibly oil breakdown can play a role as well. Your region is an offroad paradise and while I know you tour considerably, high heat offroading by yourself or the previous owner, will accelerate the wear life of these items as well...

What was your approach with reringing your DR, did you leave the cylinder's finish untouched, or lightly deglaze the nikasil surface ? And finally, have you rejetted the bike, to alleviate the supposed oem lean condition ?

Thanks for your, as always, considerable positive input to this thread / site, GISdood !

996DL
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:27 PM   #56607
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The graph you posted looks like it's from wide open throttle runs, correct? If so, how does it pertain to the pilot jet and pilot air bleed sizes, which affect predominantly 1/16 to 1/8 throttle openings?

Regards,

Derek
No idea. Looks good though




I adjusted the pilot and pilot-air to be the same ratios the 640 uses (but still smaller than those ones). Seemed to help down low, without introducing any negatives.

Of course, since the mx_rob kitted FCR39MX went in last August, I would never willingly go back to a CV carb
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:07 PM   #56608
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
FI is great. The existing maps may not be perfect, but unlike a carbureted bike, with FI at least the possibility exists to make the mixture correct at every intersection of throttle position and rpm. Because of the high resolution, it's potentially a lot of work, but you don't have to worry about overlap between circuits, gasoline spills or multiple disasemblies/reassemblies.

Regards,

Derek
I agree with this.

I had fuel injection on 3 different K model BMW's and they all performed flawlessly.

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Old 11-09-2011, 10:30 PM   #56609
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
thanks guys. looks like i have a paper gasket :( and my head gasket is leaking ...

debating a JE high comp piston vs just gasket replacement. is it advisable/worth it to run the JE without a new cam?
More compression is good everywhere (with or with out a JE cam), except for maybe the gas pump. You might have to go up in octane, if it starts pinging.

Quote:
Can a newb install it,
If you're a garage guy with tools, probably.
Quote:
including the cylinder wall deglaze?
I don't know.
Quote:
And finally, what is the process to remove old gasket material without damage?
Patience helps, don't start if you're in a hurry. Permatex makes a gasket remover, I used it when my clutch cover gasket broke, doing the NSU screws. It was really slow, I didn't use a metal scraper. EDIT: I've heard of some using the 3M fiber wheels on an air grinder, but those will turn high rpm and could do damage if you press too hard. Never use 3M fiber wheels, see following posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
The tab is a rivit holding the metal layers of the gasket together. Paper wouldn't have it.
If that's true, there should be another rivet. And there is, left rear corner; smaller and harder to see.
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2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-10-2011 at 10:15 AM
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:10 AM   #56610
Paddle007
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Location: S.E. Louisiana
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Never use those fiber wheels around an open engine. The material, aluminum oxide? , which flies off the wheel is extremely small and impossible to remove from your engine. Major automotive manufacturers have bulletins explaing the problem. They also are too abrasive. You will not have a flat surface when your done. I know it's not alot of metal removed but the time saved is not worth it.
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