ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-10-2011, 08:55 AM   #56641
vintagespeed
fNg
 
vintagespeed's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 1,618
Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
....Screw 2.5 turns out. What should I play with the dial it in?....
typically, if the best running position is that far out on the idle mixture screw, your pilot jet is too lean. or dirty...

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The DJ needle is fine.....
your dyno chart is impressive but it only demonstrates that you MAIN JET is fine. not sure what that has to do with the needle?
__________________
'12 Triumph ST3R corner raper (sold, sadly), '09 HusaBerg FE570 (also sold) and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
vintagespeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 08:59 AM   #56642
EvanADV
Big Bearded Boy
 
EvanADV's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Joplor, NC
Oddometer: 1,337
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
normal pilot jet tuning methods w/ the BST result in mixture that produces bog. you need to ignore what you know from other bikes as the BST carb oerforms better w/ a lean pilot jet circuit from off idle throttle. it is what it is.
Cool, so a leaner pilot jet circuit is a good thing. I'm guessing that means the factory setting may not be as bad as most think?

Not applying what I know from other bikes, lol. My first bike was a Bandit 1250 which was FI. Then I bought a DR. I'm 22, and my Dad couldn't even teach me to change the oil in a car growing up. Thanks to forums i'm able to get some of that wise-old-man mechanical advice instead of always having to learn the hard way (like with my cam chain tensioner incident)

__________________
Current Steeds: '08 FJR1300 | '02 DR650
Former Steeds: '99 DR650 | '02 DR650 | '09 DL650 | '07 B1250
9 states left to ride: WI, MN, ND, SD, UT, OK, KS, AK, and HI.
First Trip on 2 Wheels. 10,000 miles. 21 years old.
NC to Maine for Lobster Dinner
EvanADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 09:11 AM   #56643
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,450
Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Don't even consider it. I've seen dozens of cylinders and other parts ruined because some "mechanic" used an abrasive wheel to remove a gasket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Never use those fiber wheels around an open engine. The material, aluminum oxide? , which flies off the wheel is extremely small and impossible to remove from your engine. Major automotive manufacturers have bulletins explaing the problem. They also are too abrasive. You will not have a flat surface when your done. I know it's not alot of metal removed but the time saved is not worth it.
I wondered if they were too aggressive. I'll edit my post.
__________________
2004 DR650: 61,211 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 09:35 AM   #56644
WET&MUDDY
"I think we can make it"
 
WET&MUDDY's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2007
Location: RI/MASS/CT
Oddometer: 49
For sale

I haven't signed on this forum in a while, last time I was up to speed there was just over a 1000 post now you guys are climbing to 4000!

I have a 2007 DR650SE with just over 10K miles on it. Extras include Renzaco Racing custom made seat, Renthal bars, Acerbis hand guards, skid plate, rear brake guard, SW Motto Tech luggage rack, Dyno Jet kit and K&N air filter. Kelly Blue Book says 3300. I say 3500 takes her away with all the extras I mentioned. Located in North Eastern Connecticut e-mail me if your serious at mdcxlc@yahoo.com and I'll send pics. Bike is blue. I bought a house and enough said.
__________________
Famous last words after approaching a hero section that contains water "Oh yea...we can make it"
WET&MUDDY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 10:25 AM   #56645
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,217
Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Bog is just of idle...i'd say no more than 1/8 throttle.

The low speed surging is when i'm in a low gear around, i'd guess, 1/4 throttle, like if you're trying to maintain 25mph down a hill with a cop behind you without applying brake.

The suggestion to mark off the 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT is a good one, I may go ahead and do that.
Adjust the idle mixture via the method below. Then, via the marks, determine during which throttle position the problem happens predominantly. If it happens more around 1/16 and 1/8 opening, change the pilot jet. If it happens more around 1/4 opening, change the jet needle clip position. If it happens at all throttle openings below ~3-3.5K rpm, the float height is set incorrectly or the emulsion tube is worn out.
Quote:
What's the typical method to set that fuel screw? Listen for some specific behavior at idle while adjusting
Start and let the engine warm up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean, adjust the mixture screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust no more than 1/8 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Note the final mixture screw setting. If you make other changes, repeat the process.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 10:34 AM   #56646
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,217
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
your dyno chart is impressive but it only demonstrates that you MAIN JET is fine. not sure what that has to do with the needle?
The carb in question is a CV type. Therefore, if it was known that the chart was for WOT, and if it had a CO trace, the chart would actually show us whether or not the needle shape is correct. Since it has an "A/F ratio" trace, it only shows us that there was an improvement between runs.

If it was known that the chart was for WOT, and if the carb in question was a slide type, you would be correct.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 10:44 AM   #56647
EvanADV
Big Bearded Boy
 
EvanADV's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Joplor, NC
Oddometer: 1,337
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean, adjust the mixture screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust no more than 1/8 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Note the final mixture screw setting. If you make other changes, repeat the process.

Regards,

Derek
Thanks. Guess it'll have to wait until I have the Vapor installed one day so I can use the tach. Unless there is some other way to adjust idle speed to spec/below spec (by ear...)
__________________
Current Steeds: '08 FJR1300 | '02 DR650
Former Steeds: '99 DR650 | '02 DR650 | '09 DL650 | '07 B1250
9 states left to ride: WI, MN, ND, SD, UT, OK, KS, AK, and HI.
First Trip on 2 Wheels. 10,000 miles. 21 years old.
NC to Maine for Lobster Dinner
EvanADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 11:36 AM   #56648
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,177
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
your dyno chart is impressive but it only demonstrates that you MAIN JET is fine. not sure what that has to do with the needle?
That's not true. On a CV carb dyno run you won't really be running fully on the main jet until the motor is way up into the higher rpm range. Through the midrange it will be running on the needle/needle jet even though you have the throttle wide open.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 11:41 AM   #56649
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,177
Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Unless there is some other way to adjust idle speed to spec/below spec (by ear...)
By ear will work just fine.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 02:13 PM   #56650
GISdood
Studly Adventurer
 
GISdood's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prince George, BC
Oddometer: 855
Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
I doubt the original valve guide seals, were at all affected by our brutal Canadian winter's temps, normally it's strictly just heat related degradation and possibly oil breakdown can play a role as well. Your region is an offroad paradise and while I know you tour considerably, high heat offroading by yourself or the previous owner, will accelerate the wear life of these items as well...

What was your approach with reringing your DR, did you leave the cylinder's finish untouched, or lightly deglaze the nikasil surface ? And finally, have you rejetted the bike, to alleviate the supposed oem lean condition ?

Thanks for your, as always, considerable positive input to this thread / site, GISdood !

996DL
Well, I'm going to play it safe and blame the previous owner for the early expiry of the valve seals then!

I initially was going to just deglaze the cylinder with a scotchbrite pad, but I figured seeing as I was tearing the bike down and freshening up everything else, going half-assed on the heart of the beast just wouldn't do. I wound up taking it to a local engine rebuilder and had them put a nice light crosshatch into the cylinder wall for me.

As for rejetting... definitely. After I had the base gasket issue resolved and the first set of new rings installed, I scored a lightly-used FMF Q2 from another DR owner over on the Yahoo DR650 group, then picked up a Dynojet kit from my local dealer. A few hours later, a bunch of plastic removed from the airbox, and many, MANY profanities uttered after stripping out those f%$#ing JIS screws from the float bowl, some dremel work to notch the screwheads for extraction and so on.... well, suffice to say I was happy to sacrifice a couple miles per gallon for the added throttle response and fun factor
Thanks for the kind words... I'm glad to help!
GISdood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 04:11 PM   #56651
Mercenary
Mindless Savage
 
Mercenary's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Ft St John, BC Canada
Oddometer: 964
Scool me on DR front forks..

Ok...so if I wanted (needed) to upgrade the springs in my front forks on my 08.....how do I go about doing that? Is it just a matter of unscrewing the top caps, removing any spacers, drain the oil, replace the springs,and then re-assemble?
__________________
2008 DR 650
We can handle it....We're Canadian
Mercenary is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 05:22 PM   #56652
carcajou
Resourceful Weasel
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
No agenda here other than trying to contribute to everyone's general understanding. Just pointing out that the majority or DR owners won't be happy with a 45 pilot jet. Neither would they be happy with a cut open airbox and a shimmed needle. It worked for you so more power to you. Your bike responds differently than 99% of the other DRs. We do see this occasionally. On the other side of the balance is the bike ridden by one of my employees. He has a cut airbox but still has a stock exhaust. His bike wouldn't run properly until we set the DJ needle on the 5th position. That would be way too rich for 99% of other DRs but his bike ran great with that setup and got 53+mpg. Most other bikes with his setup would need the needle set at position #2. Go figure.
I appreciate that you participate in the forum.
__________________
"Beaten paths are for beaten men." - Erik's Mom.
carcajou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 05:29 PM   #56653
livetofly
Adventurer
 
livetofly's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: FL Panhandle
Oddometer: 61
low throttle bogging

Rumlover and motolab,
Thanks a lot for the informative responses. I have a much better idea of the carb and its adjustments on the DR650 now. As far as my DR goes I think I got the issue worked out now. When the PO installed the dynojet jet kit, he must have forgotten to remove the white plastic spacer that it says to take off in the instructions. This had the effect of making it run really rich. The rich situation was also compounded by an air filter caked with dirt (somehow the dealer didn't clean that when I took it in for an initial check up). So with those corrections done I just took it for a test ride and didn't notice any of the rough bogging down at low rpm like before. On a side note it was probably a clue that before it started even in the cold with no choke applied just fine, now that it's not running so rich the choke will probably have to be used as it should be on cold mornings.

I love this thread, but think it's starting to take away from time I should be working on my studies
__________________
2008 Yamaha WR250X
2006 DR650 - sold
2005 KLR250 - sold
Pura Vida !
livetofly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 05:47 PM   #56654
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
Ok...so if I wanted (needed) to upgrade the springs in my front forks on my 08.....how do I go about doing that? Is it just a matter of unscrewing the top caps, removing any spacers, drain the oil, replace the springs,and then re-assemble?
Lotsa variables for this answer. http://www.procycle.us/info/question...html#both_ends PC has some good starting suggestions and was helpful during my chosen solution.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 06:00 PM   #56655
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,217
Quote:
Originally Posted by livetofly View Post
Rumlover and motolab,
Thanks a lot for the informative responses.
You are welcome!
Quote:
I have a much better idea of the carb and its adjustments on the DR650 now. As far as my DR goes I think I got the issue worked out now.
Good deal...
Quote:
When the PO installed the dynojet jet kit, he must have forgotten to remove the white plastic spacer that it says to take off in the instructions.
I'm concerned where the needle clip sits if you remove the white spacer. Do they have you install a thinner washer of the same diameter as the spacer?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 11-10-2011 at 06:42 PM
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014