the DR650 thread

[FatChance]

Originally Posted by shu

I finally removed it and replaced it with a set screw because A FEW OF YOU have had problems and I didn't want to tempt fate, but I'm not convinced that it happens all that often.

"all that often" is a very relative way of looking at this, especially if it happens to you. The top roller broke off my first (2000) DR650 just once and that was often enough for me! When I bought my current (2005) DR650, I took it off as soon as I rode the bike home from the dealer. So, the top roller only broke off on 50% of my DR650s, at least so far.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by vorg

Putting to gether an ADV group buy for the cogent shock upgrade.
Good chance to save $$ on the hard coat $45 instead of $125 if you go it on your own.

Chime in here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=24

Lets get started on the off season upgrades.

I missed out on the last group buy from Cogent because I didn't want to lose the use of my bike during our very short summer here in Alaska. But now is the time to do it. If anyone is thinking about upgrading to good suspension, consider doing it now. In the past, Rick at Cogent has offered group buy prices during the slow time in Nov/Dec.

If you are unfamiliar with Cogent, read the thread linked above. Start at the beginning to read what is involved and what others who have bought them think of it. If you want to skip the history lesson, start on page 21 for the last group buy info:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=21

And you can go directly to Cogent's DR650 page for more:
http://www.motocd.com/cd/index.php?o...ucts&Itemid=66

There are many ways to go when improving the suspension and is one of the best cost/benefits available according to those who have done it. There are less expensive options and I usually go that route. Then I spend more money going with what I should have in the beginning...

Chime in if you are interested and add your name on at the end of the thread above.

[tobster9]

can someone please dig up the torque setting for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs, i cant find it anywhere, got a small leak and scrabbling around to get my sh*t together before death valley tmrw,

thanks

[996DL]

Originally Posted by GISdood

I'd been experiencing the same blue smoke on cold starts that others were describing, but it went away after the bike warmed up and my overall oil consumption was negligible. Figured it had to be old, tired, hardened valve seals. I ordered the top end gasket/seal kit from ProCycle (along with a pile of other bike goodies, like new rings from my local dealer) and proceeded to take the engine out of the frame and strip the rest of the bike down. The top end was once again taken apart and new piston rings installed as part of the process.

How about letting us know the conditions of the old valve guide seals and whether your top end freshen up, cleared up the start up blue smoke and minimal oil consumption ?

Nice to hear you took it upon yourself, to work on the bike the 2nd time around.

996DL

[Al Tuna]

Originally Posted by tobster9

can someone please dig up the torque setting for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs, i cant find it anywhere, got a small leak and scrabbling around to get my sh*t together before death valley tmrw,

thanks

27.5 ft-lb

[vintagespeed]

Originally Posted by procycle

Once again, your carburetor setup is outside the norm. Most riders who have tried the 45 pilot have reported a 'rich bog' just off idle that couldn't be tuned out without going back the the stock 42.5 pilot jet. Most bikes will even exhibit the off idle bog just turning the mixture screw much beyond 1.5 turns.

now i realize that i'm not a parts re-seller so my experience is given without any agenda....but yeah, bike runs great, no bog, no issues, pulls like a freight train.

i can't believe you would argue that a +2.5 change (very small) in pilot jet would be too rich, but using the DJ ultra-thin needle is fine.

the pilot jet change pales in comparison to the amount of fuel added by the DJ jet needle.

[tobster9]

thanks Al, thats awesome

[eakins]

Originally Posted by tobster9

can someone please dig up the torque setting for the 2 14mm bolts either side of the spark plugs, i cant find it anywhere, got a small leak and scrabbling around to get my sh*t together before death valley tmrw,

thanks

cyl head bolt 27.5 ftlb (you can't do just the 2! there are 2 more under the head cover that also must be torqued, so you must remove the head cover, torque and have a new gasket to reseal it. apply torque in a criss-cross patern.)
cyl head cover 7 ftlb

it's all in the manual pdf from the image al posted.

base gasket leak? pre 2003? honestly you're in rush (sounds like it with your post demand) so i'd fix it when you're back.

[Al Tuna]

Originally Posted by tobster9

thanks Al, thats awesome

You really should check all the cylinder head bolts, rather than torquing only two. Plus the leak may be coming from the valve cover and not the cylinder head gasket.

EDIT: eakins beat me to it.

manual pdf from the image al posted...

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by JagLite

I have been searching for hours over the past few days (really!) to find a post that listed stock fork sizes for common (dirt?) bikes.
I don't remember what thread, or even what forum I read it in....
I thought it was in here though.

Does anyone recall seeing it?
AND, do you remember where you saw it?

It was a LONG post listing dozens, if not hundreds, of bikes by fork diameters.
I don't remember if it listed other dimensions, all I recall was diameters.
I have tried searching using every term I could think of and I am getting nowhere in any thread or forum.
Seems to me it was in a discussion of fork swapping...
Since this thread is one of my daily reads I have tried here as well as Thumpertalk and other DR650 sites.

One of those things that we read and think "that is really interesting and useful" and then forget to save it somewhere for when we want it.

Or maybe I am the only one who forgets everything...

Uh, never mind. Dumbhead finally thought to search on Google and instantly hit multiple sites with the chart....
Thank you for your time, now we may get back to the regular discussion of pilot jets: "to clean or not to clean, that is the question..."

For anyone who has a lousy memory like me, here is the original location (as far as I can tell) of the Fork Tube Listing I had searched for:
http://www.ohiocaferacers.com/
It is in the Tech Tips section.

They also have a chart of "Stock Steering Stem Sizes" which is also very helpful so you may want to save both of them.
I have saved the links, and saved a PDF file of each.
Next time I ask where this is, perhaps one of you fine people will remind me that I saved them....

The link I had remembered was actually this one:
http://scandalon.com/2009/06/motorcy...iameter-chart/
But it is nice to give recognition to the ones who actually put it together.

The All Balls website lists the bearing sizes for forks which is also very handy. With all three lists, you can figure out if what you plan will be feasible. Without breaking the bank for custom machine shop work.

[shu]

Originally Posted by Krusty ...

He doesn't jest. And don't call him Shirley...

........shu

[shu]

Originally Posted by FatChance

"all that often" is a very relative way of looking at this, especially if it happens to you. The top roller broke off my first (2000) DR650 just once and that was often enough for me! When I bought my current (2005) DR650, I took it off as soon as I rode the bike home from the dealer. So, the top roller only broke off on 50% of my DR650s, at least so far.

Good point.

It's kind of like medicine. Odds of 1 in a million for having a bad reaction to a drug or vaccine sounds good unless you happen to be the 'one'.

I guess that's why I finally removed my chain roller too.

...........shu

[LexTalionis]

Originally Posted by Fire Escape

Use a google search of this thread and you will find pictures and comments.

Short version is that if your chain tension isn't loose enough you can rip the upper chain roller and it's mounting point where it is attached to the frame right off the bike. If you remove it, your chain doesn't need to be adjusted as loose, which makes it one of those 'Catch 22' (does anyone still remember what that meant?) things.
As in all things DR, opinions vary and anecdotal evidence is always considered 'proof'. I took mine off. YMMV, enjoy the new toy!

Bruce

I know what it means, I read the book and watched the movie.

Lex

[procycle]

Originally Posted by vintagespeed

now i realize that i'm not a parts re-seller so my experience is given without any agenda....but yeah, bike runs great, no bog, no issues, pulls like a freight train.

No agenda here other than trying to contribute to everyone's general understanding. Just pointing out that the majority or DR owners won't be happy with a 45 pilot jet. Neither would they be happy with a cut open airbox and a shimmed needle. It worked for you so more power to you. Your bike responds differently than 99% of the other DRs. We do see this occasionally. On the other side of the balance is the bike ridden by one of my employees. He has a cut airbox but still has a stock exhaust. His bike wouldn't run properly until we set the DJ needle on the 5th position. That would be way too rich for 99% of other DRs but his bike ran great with that setup and got 53+mpg. Most other bikes with his setup would need the needle set at position #2. Go figure.

[Stringer99]

Is there any way to confirm visually (while bike is assembled) if you have a paper base gasket or a metal base gasket