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Old 11-12-2011, 11:37 PM   #56716
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
It was about an 800-mile weekend.
Shoot, I ran a 770 mile day on the DR650 a few years ago. It wasn't even planned...I just ended up riding all the way home. No problems, perfectly comfortable. It's a great road bike.

ps. I started out late in the morning and rode out of the Ozarks on Warloop road. The DR is truly a great all-rounder.
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Klay screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 11:45 PM
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:29 AM   #56717
PHILinFRANCE
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Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Shoot, I ran a 770 mile day on the DR650 a few years ago. It wasn't even planned...I just ended up riding all the way home. No problems, perfectly comfortable. It's a great road bike.

ps. I started out late in the morning and rode out of the Ozarks on Warloop road. The DR is truly a great all-rounder.
Road and off road , in short
My place to Morocco 1340 kms.....Road
Morocco 3340 kms.....Road un OFF
Barcelona - Home 760 kms Road

Total 5440 kms ....and she's a 96

Never missed a beat , except half a tank of CRAP fuel in Morocco
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:26 AM   #56718
mercenario27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
non-issue. been discussed before... tho a common mod is to remove the header and grind down a big fat weld that's inside that tends to hang onto heat.
I never noticed my header glowing. Is there a proformance gain by grinding it down? I was planning on taking off the header this winter to wrap it.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:41 AM   #56719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
I did a search but either I suck at using the search tool or the search tool sucks.
Two questions
First, how do you search for a specific term? I've seen where you use quotes to indicate a specific term.

Second question, with the 520 conversion, are there additional spacers needed and if I'm going to a 46 tooth rear, should I get rid of the top roller. The rear shock has been resprung and revalved so the sag is dead on for off road set up.
Check the chain to make sure you don't already have a 525 Chain on your bike. Don't make the same mistake I made: I needed to replace my chain, but I didn't want to by an expensive one because I was planning on riding alot in the Northeast this winter. So I bought a new stock chain off ebay. The PO already did the 525 conversion. So the ebay chain didn't work out.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:09 AM   #56720
livetofly
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throttle looseness

On my DR650 I keep thinking the throttle/grip feels a little too loose or sloppy. I've asked a couple mechanics about this and they say this is normal for DR's. I understand you want a degree of looseness in the fore/aft twist of the throttle in closed position, but my DR easily has 2x or 3x more play than other dual sports I've been on. Also, there is some lateral play side to side of the throttle on the handlebar. Pretty much my only comparison is my KLR250 and a KLX250S, both of which don't have that same looseness. Is there a measurement I can do to check if it is within normal specs? What is the best way to go about getting rid of the excessive play? I've seen ProCycle sells aluminum throttle tubes, would this help? Every time I get on the DR it is the first thing I notice and a little annoying.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:23 AM   #56721
Midpack
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Throttle play

You might want to adjust the play in your throttle cables, their a push pull set up. Don't think it matters which you adjust. The advantage of the ProCycle throttle tube is when you go to replace your worn out grips,
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:01 AM   #56722
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
What is your inseam? Mine is about 30", and I can now manage stock height OK with stock seat after some saddle time. A shaved/narrow seat would make planting feet even easier though.

Did you get the heaviest-rate springs available? Have you tried a heavier weight of fork oil? More preload? More damping?
Inseam is 29".

They are not the heaviest weight springs, but they were/are a substantial improvement over the stock set up. .47 on the front and whatever the first level Eibach is on the back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
A suspension is supposed to bottom once in a while. If you spring and dampen it so it never bottoms, it will ride like a truck.

Although my ride height is stock, my pegs are down and back an inch (only 1/2" higher than yours). My toes panic when I hit a 'pucker moment'.
I only bottomed out the front. After sleeping on it overnight I am thinking this was as much the angle I landed as anything. Also, I had considered lowering the pegs for the comfort factor but after reading your toes comment I think I'll pass on that! Last year I rode this thing almost 5,000 miles round trip to the CDT and back and anything that would improve comfort would have been worth any price! But I'll not do that again, and it is only about 10 miles from where I live to the old pipeline where we ride so I can take it for that distance.

When I lowered it I took a half-inch or so off of the CVC preload spacer so I think I'll swing by Lowes and pick up a half dozen flat washers and start adding back a bit of preload.

Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:58 AM   #56723
alonzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
Check the chain to make sure you don't already have a 525 Chain on your bike. Don't make the same mistake I made: I needed to replace my chain, but I didn't want to by an expensive one because I was planning on riding alot in the Northeast this winter. So I bought a new stock chain off ebay. The PO already did the 525 conversion. So the ebay chain didn't work out.
Perhaps you mean 520 conversion. Stock chain is 525 (pre `96 bikes may be 520.) Some folks convert to 520 because of the greater sprocket choice.

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Old 11-13-2011, 07:39 AM   #56724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
I only bottomed out the front. After sleeping on it overnight I am thinking this was as much the angle I landed as anything. Also, I had considered lowering the pegs for the comfort factor but after reading your toes comment I think I'll pass on that! Last year I rode this thing almost 5,000 miles round trip to the CDT and back and anything that would improve comfort would have been worth any price! But I'll not do that again, and it is only about 10 miles from where I live to the old pipeline where we ride so I can take it for that distance.

When I lowered it I took a half-inch or so off of the CVC preload spacer so I think I'll swing by Lowes and pick up a half dozen flat washers and start adding back a bit of preload.

Thanks for the feedback!
Why not try adding a little oil, maybe in 1/4" increments. That isn't discussed much, but it should help resist bottoming and seems like the simplest thing to try first.
Do a google search on the benefits (and pitfalls). Kind of interesting.
I thought someone once said that jesse (of Kientech) recommended a little higher level then stock.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:15 PM   #56725
Stringer99
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thanks for the torque wrench ideas, much appreciated. turns out i will need them!

has any1 had their oil witness glass leak? i assume its a faulty o-ring? i also have the head gasket leaking ... could this help contribute to severe oil darkening? back from 200 mile trip, new oil and filter just before i left. cannot see metal button in witness window oil is so dark (even when you wipe away the leaking oil), i just don't think it's normal. had this bike 1000 miles, changed oil and filter 4 or 5 times.

and its sputtering only at idle again, which stinks. takes eternity to come off choke, difficult cold starts, and crappy mileage. i have cleaned everything that can be cleaned in carb thoroughly, 4 or 5 times. every filter on bike is new. have the garden variety airbox mod, jet kit, and exhaust upgrade. bike had same issues before any mod, though bike had aftermarket adjustable jet needle and allen float bowl screws when purchased. Should I try a size 45 pilot maybe? I am out of ideas.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:07 PM   #56726
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
They are not the heaviest weight springs, but they were/are a substantial improvement over the stock set up. .47 on the front and whatever the first level Eibach is on the back.

I only bottomed out the front. After sleeping on it overnight I am thinking this was as much the angle I landed as anything. Also, I had considered lowering the pegs for the comfort factor but after reading your toes comment I think I'll pass on that! Last year I rode this thing almost 5,000 miles round trip to the CDT and back and anything that would improve comfort would have been worth any price! But I'll not do that again, and it is only about 10 miles from where I live to the old pipeline where we ride so I can take it for that distance.

When I lowered it I took a half-inch or so off of the CVC preload spacer so I think I'll swing by Lowes and pick up a half dozen flat washers and start adding back a bit of preload.
What are your laden and unladen sag percentages (of total travel)? Having a look at those will give you an idea of both whether more prelead is a good idea or not, as well as (more importantly) whether the spring rate is correct. If the forks bottom when the spring rate and preload are known to be correct, increase the oil level.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:15 PM   #56727
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
and its sputtering only at idle again, which stinks. takes eternity to come off choke, difficult cold starts, and crappy mileage. .
Does the problem at idle happen intermittently, or does it happen consistently?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:30 PM   #56728
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Does the problem at idle happen intermittently, or does it happen consistently?

Regards,

Derek
consistantly, much worse when cold. occasionally it smoothes out when warmed up, but then it will start to hiccup, stutter, and sometimes shut off.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:39 PM   #56729
goodcat8
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^^^ Fuel starvation maybe?

Did you check that little tiny screen off the carb? Even 2 trips to the dealer had them baffled too. That little bastard made me go nuts until I tracked it down and found crap in it.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:46 PM   #56730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
consistantly, much worse when cold. occasionally it smoothes out when warmed up, but then it will start to hiccup, stutter, and sometimes shut off.
I think someone has set the float height way too high in an effort to keep it from overflowing. This strategy may be successful, but at the cost of the fuel level being far too low most of the time (except when the float valve decides to leak anyway). Using a float setting tool check to see if the float height is 14.7mm. If it is far more, or if the tang looks like it's bent at some strange angle, disassemble the float cage and inspect the float needle under magnification. You are likely to find evidence of a witness line where the conical tip has been contacting the seat. If so, needle should be replaced. Then set the float height to 14.7mm. After that, you will have to adjust the idle mixture.

Regards,

Derek
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