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Old 11-12-2011, 05:20 PM   #56716
996DL
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: finally back in paradise...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The alternator rotor bolt torque is 115.5 ft-lbs., but you shouldn't have to remove that one very frequently, if ever.

I use Armstrong 1/4 & 3/8 drives and a Proto 1/2 drive. They're high quality units.

Regards,

Derek
I didn't want to overwhelm Stringer99, with suggesting you really need three torque wrenches, I finish up my personal collection with an inexpensive offshore 1/2" drive torque wrench for the high torque applications (automotive wheels, rare mc instances), beyond the rather common 75-80 ft/lbs with good quality 3/8" drive torque wrenches...
I like about 150 inch pounds capability for my 1/4" drive... Yadda, yadda, blah, blah...

996DL
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:56 PM   #56717
Mercenary
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Larry: I was in the same boat as yourself and went with the DR 650 simply because its reliable like a hammer and I know I won't be doing a whole lot of long distance touring with it. However I think most of the DR's shortcomings on the highway can be addressed by the aftermarket. As for flaws and weak points mechanically...well each bike has them but it seems like the DR has very few in comparison to other rides.

I just bought my 08 with 4k kms on the clock for 43 hundred bucks....
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:44 PM   #56718
surplustravis
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Hey guys i have a near new Suzuki Gel seat for the dr650 for sale $82 shipped pm me or email at tiji@carolina.rr.com


My 2002 has the paper base gasket,, think i should chage it out or see if it leaks,, nothing at the moment ,,
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:53 PM   #56719
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
The Trials tires sound good, but i worry that I need to run very low pressures for optimum performance. In the front, I normally run 22 lbs on road, 15 off.
My preferred front knobbly is the MT21.
It's not directional, so when it starts wearing the back of the knobs due to braking, you can reverse it. Several times.

Trials, no. Not on the front. With the weight of the bike, it'd get chewed apart under brakes.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:17 PM   #56720
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Talking DR vs KLR

Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I've been riding dirt/trails for over 30 years.
Mostly on a 250. First on Honda XL250's and then on a Honda NX250.

I would like to move up to a 650 for longer distance riding. I know the KLR650 is more comfortable for road etc.
It's more bulky and higher which translates into more drops off road. There is more after market "stuff" available.

The Suzuki DR650 is lower and lighter, which would be better for me when the trails get rougher.

The DR650 doesn't have as comfortable seat as the KLR, but I can modify it like I've done on my NX's.

So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance
This is a popular topic and there are many threads on this alone.
But the simple answer is if you prefer exploring highways get the KLR but if you like to explore slower and even DIRTY roads get a DR. If you actually go OFFROAD... get the DR.

Both bikes are reliable and each have stock parts that many choose to replace but really you could ride either around the world stock. The DR seat is hated by most but a few don't mind it. Wind protection is lacking but really only missed at higher speeds. Stock suspension is very soft but so far I only installed some longer PVC spacers and that made a big improvement so you don't have to upgrade and spend if you don't go fast.

Here are a few more links of interest.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/11/143...Challenge.aspx
This is a nice comparison by motorcycle USA and they liked the KLR better due to the highway comfort.


http://www.dsadventures.com/dsbikes.htm
This is a brief description of several dual sports including the KLR & DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557477
This is a discussion of the reliability of the KLR vs the DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570519
This thread is titled KLR Vs DR and is for comments by people who have actually OWNED BOTH

Lot's for you to read over

Again, you like trailriding, you will be happier with the DR.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:18 PM   #56721
basketcase
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Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:35 PM   #56722
alonzo
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Location: Northwest Ozarks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Spacer on the stem under the top triple. Also means you don't have to raise the bars as much.
Damn!!! How cool (and simple) is that? This one I'm going to have to try.
Thanks for the tip.

-- alonzo
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:50 PM   #56723
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,079
Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
What is your inseam? Mine is about 30", and I can now manage stock height OK with stock seat after some saddle time. A shaved/narrow seat would make planting feet even easier though.

Did you get the heaviest-rate springs available? Have you tried a heavier weight of fork oil? More preload? More damping?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:52 PM   #56724
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skysailor View Post
I notice I have this little (about an inch in diameter) free wheeling wheel(?) about two inches aft of my counter sprocket, about an inch above my chain. What does this do?(chain guide?) Do I really need it? How to remove it? It's not anywhere near contacting the chain (at rest at least) but has chain wear on it. I have read that it can cause damage to the frame.
Lyle

Disregard. Found all the answers. Don't keep the chain too tight and all should be well. I can do this.
Umm...no. People have still ripped it off the frame. It's placement is wrong.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:05 PM   #56725
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it in the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
A suspension is supposed to bottom once in a while. If you spring and dampen it so it never bottoms, it will ride like a truck.

Although my ride height is stock, my pegs are down and back an inch (only 1/2" higher than yours). My toes panic when I hit a 'pucker moment'.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #56726
996DL
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Location: finally back in paradise...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
This is a popular topic and there are many threads on this alone.
But the simple answer is if you prefer exploring highways get the KLR but if you like to explore slower and even DIRTY roads get a DR. If you actually go OFFROAD... get the DR.
Other than better fitting taller riders in it's stock unaltered format, the basic elements of the KLR do not make a better highway bike, simply because it's burdened with an antique chain driven, doohickey tensioned, twin balance shaft design. Simply put, it's a vibratory piece of shit, that heralds back to the buzzy thumpers of the 70's. That basic design foundation doesn't become a better highway bike, just because it's oem fitted with a large gastank, windshield, tach, single or twin headlights and rear racks, because you're still saddled with excessive non-highway friendly vibrations, lots of em'. The damned standard oem equipment package, sells enough KLR's to the naive and uniformed showroom visiting customers, so let's not continue the tradition on our DR650 thread.

For an exceptionally smooth (for a large displacement single cyl) dualsport thumper, grab an 4.9 gal IMS gastank, your choice of aftermarket windshields, add a comfy seat and fucking voila, a simple reliable, sohc locknut and screw valve adjusted, SACS cooled, world class RTW DR650 dualsport tourer.

And I don't wave brand marque flags, I've just been lucky enough after 40 years of motorcycling, to recognize quality efforts and the DR650 is truly something special. Hell, Kawasaki can't even maintain quality control standards with the KLR's Thailand production, yet it's doesn't seem to be much of a problem with Triumphs built in the same country. A water cooled dohc thumper, that requires careful attention to it's motor oil levels, when running on the highway, spare me...

Rant over !

996DL

996DL screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 11:58 PM Reason: Spelink corerectshun
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:27 PM   #56727
Mr. B
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[QUOTE=larry31;17290025
There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?[/QUOTE]

I paid $3,200 for my '07 with 2,000 miles a year ago. We're in different parts of the country, but I still think $4K is a little high.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:02 PM   #56728
Harpua
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
Oddometer: 166
FWIW i paid $1900 for an '03 with 1700 miles. aside from waiting to clean the carb for too long, this bike is, for the money, totally awesome. every time i wrench on it, i'm amazed at its simplicity and ease of wrenching. 8 screws: the side panels are off, the seat is off, the tank is off and the carb is off. i mean c'mon!

and there are some sweet aftermarket items for the DR for sure (procycle!!!).

no KLR bashing here, but the big thing about the KLR for me is the big fairing on the old ones and especially the new ones. when i'm on a rough trail, i need to see as much as i can, and a big ol' fairing is a problem.

get a DR. you won't be disappointed. and screw 50/50. get the gnarliest tires you can.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:07 PM   #56729
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 100,655
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Umm...no. People have still ripped it off the frame. It's placement is wrong.
I added pre-load to the rear shock and the wear on the roller seems to have abated. 32,000 mile on the bike now.

At some point in the past, the roller ripped out of the frame of my wife's DR650 with the lowering kit. 22,000 miles on her bike now. I filled it up with liquid metal and there seems to be no distortion in the frame.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:20 PM   #56730
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Cool2 So, wuddaya really think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
....the basic elements of the KLR do not make a better highway bike, simply because it's burdened with an antique chain driven, doohickey tensioned, twin balance shaft design. Simply put, it's a vibratory piece of shit.........

......you're still saddled with excessive non-highway friendly vibrations, lots of em'. The damned standard oem equipment package, sells enough KLR's to the naive and uniformed showroom visiting customers......


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
For an exceptionally smooth (for a large displacement single cyl) dualsport thumper, grab an 4.9 gal IMS gastank, your choice of aftermarket windshields, add a comfy seat and fucking voila, a simple reliable, sohc locknut and screw valve adjusted, SACS cooled, world class RTW DR650 dualsport tourer.

And I don't wave brand marque flags, I've just been lucky enough after 40 years of motorcycling, to recognize quality efforts and the DR650 is truly something special.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Hell, Kawasaki can't even maintain quality control standards with the KLR's Thailand production, yet it's doesn't seem to be much of a problem with Triumphs built in the same country. A water cooled dohc thumper, that requires careful attention to it's motor oil levels, when running on the highway, spare me...


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Rant over !


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
996DL
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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