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Old 11-15-2011, 02:38 PM   #56836
MarkGS
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Do you have bark busters? Many times you can break the perch. Barkbusters are a defense against that problem.
I have Acerbis guards...same idea.
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:09 PM   #56837
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
Hey, I am trying to figure out this relay thing and am overwhelmed with too much info when I search.

I am going to install (a pair of) headlight relays with a low beam cutoff switch, and I understand that the relays serve to reduces wattage loss by bypassing the small gauge switch wires. I am also gonna do heated grips with a hard wired 'troller, but I am not clear if I should relay this as well. What about a switched cig socket?

If I mount all of these near the bar, can I power all three relay switches and a Vapor using the accessory power source behind the headlight shell, or do I need to spread the load out? Also, I think I am gonna buy the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse block to reduce the mess down near the battery, but I am not sure if I should get the 40A relay and fuse option. What is the purpose of this relay? If I power all of my accessories out of the fuse box, do they each need their own relays **only if they have switches**. I feel like I'm close here, but need a little more guidance.....

TIA, Porrick
When I did mine, I tapped into the wiring harness at the headlight fuseblock under the RHS sidecover. Fitted the 2 relays there, one for each beam, and with a fused power feed from the battery via the relay to each beam, its the most efficient way I could come up with. You can then use the power up front that originally was used for the bulb to feed something else like grips. A self tapper into the airbox is fine for mounting the relays. Have a close look at the wiring diagram.

Steve
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:35 PM   #56838
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
I'm thinking of running a line from the battery to the cowling that will let me power several gadgets. Any thoughts on workable solutions?
fused at the battery, small 4 fuse block behind the cowl to your gadgets. relay or no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
...some idiot previous owner had used red locktite on the spoke nipples....
hey, i've read in THIS very thread that you should locktight EVERYTHING.
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:42 PM   #56839
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Yes please !

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Hello All,

I'm thinking about carrying the '90-'95 6H11 & '96-present 6F19 non-USA adjustable jet needles. Would there be any interest here?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-15-2011, 03:59 PM   #56840
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Yes and in parking lot tip overs from wind or people leaning on your bike and other stupid reasons.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkGS View Post
That all makes sense to me with the exception of clutch / brake levers, but I've seen a lot of people include them in their packing lists. What's the failure mechanism for them? Do they frequently snap in crashes?
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:22 PM   #56841
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
.... I tapped into the wiring harness at the headlight fuseblock under the RHS sidecover. Fitted the 2 relays there, one for each beam, and with a fused power feed from the battery via the relay to each beam...
there's no perfect solution, but this setup would require more wiring from the battery to the headlight than housing the relays behind the cowl. being that you're running high & low beam power wires + a ground to the front of the bike.

you could run a single power & ground to the front cowl, fused at the battery, to a 4 fuse block, run your headlight relay(s) off one circuit, your grips off another, and power outlets off the remaining circuits.

as to the breaker question, they make breakers that can be used in place of a blade fuse, which would be fine being that in the above example the main feed lines are fused at the battery.

it's how my bike is wired so maybe i'm bias.
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TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:24 PM   #56842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Hello All,

I'm thinking about carrying the '90-'95 6H11 & '96-present 6F19 non-USA adjustable jet needles. Would there be any interest here?

Regards,

Derek

Do you know if the 6F19 profile and length is the same as the USA needle?

Thanks
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:29 PM   #56843
silverwolf
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Location: Asheville, NC
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OK carb experts. I have an odd one for you. 09 dr650 about 3400 miles. I'm at about 2,000 ft elevation. Stock exhaust, procycle jet kit, 5th clip, 150 mikuni main, drilled slide, airbox cut per procycle template, fuel screw at 2 turns out. Bike has been running very lean, hot, kinda rough running at certain rpms. Float level is spot on, checked with the carb off and with a clear tube the fuel level shows right at the top of the bowl.

I put a piece of duct tape across part of the airbox opening today to see how it would react. It ran better most places but when letting off the throttle it popped pretty good. I understand popping on decelleration is normal but mine hadn't been doing it until I added the duct tape. This should of made it richer and which as I understand the pop is due to a lean condition from the lack of a decel circuit. Any ideas on what would cause a bike with my jet settings to run lean, not pop on decel and then when run richer start to pop on decel?

Specifically can valves clearance have anything to do with it? That's pretty much the only other thing that's been played with on the motor so I am wondering if I got them far enough off to mess up the combustion. I thought I had them pretty good but the access is kinda a pain and makes feel difficult.
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:35 PM   #56844
Stringer99
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Be careful, there's a small pin and spring between the switch and engine case. There's nothing holding them in other than the switch.
SHIT. everything is locktited now. i didnt see a spring. i saw a pin underneath the NSU that was spring activated and in tact when i reassembled. am i good???
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:52 PM   #56845
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
OK carb experts. I have an odd one for you. 09 dr650 about 3400 miles. I'm at about 2,000 ft elevation. Stock exhaust, procycle jet kit, 5th clip, 150 mikuni main, drilled slide, airbox cut per procycle template, fuel screw at 2 turns out. Bike has been running very lean, hot, kinda rough running at certain rpms. Float level is spot on, checked with the carb off and with a clear tube the fuel level shows right at the top of the bowl.

I put a piece of duct tape across part of the airbox opening today to see how it would react. It ran better most places but when letting off the throttle it popped pretty good. I understand popping on decelleration is normal but mine hadn't been doing it until I added the duct tape. This should of made it richer and which as I understand the pop is due to a lean condition from the lack of a decel circuit. Any ideas on what would cause a bike with my jet settings to run lean, not pop on decel and then when run richer start to pop on decel?

Specifically can valves clearance have anything to do with it? That's pretty much the only other thing that's been played with on the motor so I am wondering if I got them far enough off to mess up the combustion. I thought I had them pretty good but the access is kinda a pain and makes feel difficult.
Expert?? Not me, so feel free to totally disregard.
I would focus on the original problem and why did it start running lean. I would guess a jet(s) is dirty. What is the condition of your gas and how old is it. If suspect at all change it out and run some techron in it before tearing it apart. Checking valves can't hurt.

The size of the opening in the airbox vs jet size, IMO, seems to be like dabbling in the black arts.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:02 PM   #56846
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
SHIT. everything is locktited now. i didnt see a spring. i saw a pin underneath the NSU that was spring activated and in tact when i reassembled. am i good???
Sounds like your ok. From what I can see in the crappy picture in the manual the spring is behind the pin, so if you didn't remove the pin and it still feels like the spring is pushing on the pin I would guess it's good.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:09 PM   #56847
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Sounds like your ok. From what I can see in the crappy picture in the manual the spring is behind the pin, so if you didn't remove the pin and it still feels like the spring is pushing on the pin I would guess it's good.

THANK YOU!

wow that was close ... i almost WAS "that guy" lol!

my hats off to all that completed the NSU mod without removing the clutch .... i just don't see how you did it. my advice to those that need to complete this .... take off the damn clutch! i went to HF and for $1.49 i got a 27mm impact socket. Soooo much easier!!
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:23 PM   #56848
silverwolf
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Expert?? Not me, so feel free to totally disregard.
I would focus on the original problem and why did it start running lean. I would guess a jet(s) is dirty. What is the condition of your gas and how old is it. If suspect at all change it out and run some techron in it before tearing it apart. Checking valves can't hurt.

The size of the opening in the airbox vs jet size, IMO, seems to be like dabbling in the black arts.
Thanks for the input. My definition of expert is pretty loose. At my office the expert is sometimes the guy who's done it once before.

I've been through a few tanks of gas and had it apart and cleaned every orifice I could find. I also put in a new pilot jet at some point in the process.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:23 PM   #56849
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
THANK YOU!

wow that was close ... i almost WAS "that guy" lol!

my hats off to all that completed the NSU mod without removing the clutch .... i just don't see how you did it. my advice to those that need to complete this .... take off the damn clutch! i went to HF and for $1.49 i got a 27mm impact socket. Soooo much easier!!
It would be nice if someone else could confirm the order of parts, as the picture I found is pretty bad.

It is page 3-47 in the manual
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:12 PM   #56850
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumlover View Post
it would be nice if someone else could confirm the order of parts, as the picture i found is pretty bad.

It is page 3-47 in the manual
I believe you are correct, part 34 and 35.

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