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Old 11-15-2011, 08:16 PM   #56881
airheadbruce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
I think there is a 6th clip but I'm close to the richest setting on the needle. The bike runs all the way through to full throttle but is lean throughout. The diaphram looks good, no tears, the oring is in place at the top. I've tried spraying wd40 on the boots and found no leaks.
Well, spark plugs.... torqued correctly and reasonably new and gapped? Plug wires in good condition? Electrical connections to coil, side stand and clutch lever OK? Poor sparking can cause some of your problems. Fuel filter at carb spigot? Compression test... pull a plug and turn engine over with finger over hole, should blow out strong.
Too rich can be as hard to diagnose as too lean also.
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:16 PM   #56882
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Bike is in good condition but i do have a problem with oil turning black and idling/warming up/stuttering issues.
Oil turning black is a symptom of not changing it frequently enough, overly rich mixture or blow by. About that leak down test...

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:19 PM   #56883
Al Tuna
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Originally Posted by shu View Post


What am I missing here? My bike has 42,000 miles on it and is running nicely. Why would you put a couple of thousand more and then rebuild it? That motor would still have less than 10,000 miles on it.


............shu
I agree with you... If it were my bike and the leak was minor, I'd give it some time... Probably lots of time and miles before I tore it down.

If I had to pull the cylinder, it would get a light honing and new rings.
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:21 PM   #56884
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
By what is typical I am tuned way rich and yet still running lean.
If you are convinced that it is running lean, why not install the main jet that makes it run properly at WOT and then determine what the other circuits want?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:25 PM   #56885
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Oil turning black is a symptom of not changing it frequently enough, overly rich mixture or blow by. About that leak down test...

Regards,

Derek
oil and filter has been changed every 200 miles since purchased 1000 miles ago. i am assuming i am not overly rich because exhaust is almost sootless and plugs are pretty clean.
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Old 11-15-2011, 08:33 PM   #56886
planemanx15
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Is a front wheel bead lock really needed when airing down?
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:00 PM   #56887
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Is a front wheel bead lock really needed when airing down?
Depends how much you air down.

18psi - not needed.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:27 PM   #56888
alonzo
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I too have the E-clip and no problems. I was just wondering why Jeff posted what he did.

-- alonzo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have thousands of miles, mostly offroad on the clip. I have no problems.
The sprocket finds it's happy spot as to alignment and it all works.

I have the sprocket cover removed and in a box in the garage, because it collects grass, mud and sticks if left on.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:42 PM   #56889
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Is a front wheel bead lock really needed when airing down?
Although I don't air down, I do threshold braking several times each ride on the pavement. That's a whole lot of traction. The valve stem has never budged. Next time you have the tire off, file the valve stem hole a little bit oblong in the rim. This will ensure that the valve stem can tip if the tire is slipping. (stock, the valve stem hole is tight enough that it may keep the stem at 90* even though the tire is slipping on the rim). Keep an eye on the valve stem, if it ever tips, you need a rim lock. Never tighten the valve stem nut against the rim, back it off against the valve cap. This is only finger tight and it never backs off.

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Old 11-15-2011, 11:46 PM   #56890
eakins
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i also use those rubber covers this fit over the valve stem and fit all the way down against the rim. they're curved in the shape of the rim and keep dirt out, yet allow the valve to tip is the tire is creeping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Although I don't air down, I do threshold braking several times each ride on the pavement. That's a whole lot of traction. The valve stem has never budged. Next time you have the tire off, file the valve stem hole a little bit oblong in the rim. This will ensure that the valve stem can tip if the tire is slipping. (stock, the valve stem hole is tight enough that it may keep the stem at 90* even though the tire is slipping on the rim). Keep an eye on the valve stem, if it ever tips, you need a rim lock. Never tighten the valve stem nut against the rim, back it off against the valve cap. This is only finger tight and it never backs off.

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Old 11-16-2011, 12:14 AM   #56891
LexTalionis
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Motolab question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I purchased my last float o-rings, bowl gasket and pilot jet from Motolab.....
OK, this is the second or third time I've read of Motolab selling carb parts, yet I see no info on Motolab's postings relative to retail sales.

Although I have no need for carb parts now, nor have I had such a need in the past decade or so, I like to add to my list of resources, and so, Motolab, what do you sell and what services do you offer (other than your free advice on this thread, which is much appreciated)?

TIA,
Lex
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:25 AM   #56892
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
you're planning on carrying spare parts with you for 30k miles?
I have a spare clutch and brake lever in my saddlebags all the time; the clutch because it's so inconvenient shifting without a clutch, and the brake since I'm carrying the clutch anyway, there's no extra cost in area taken up when they're rubber banded together. When I leave home for an overnighter I carry tools to replace an inner tube, including both front and rear tubes.

I have yet to break a lever or flatten a tube.

Lex
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:50 AM   #56893
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
hey, i've read in THIS very thread that you should locktight EVERYTHING.
Go back and re-read: blue locktite "nearly" everything.

As in, don't put red OR blue locktite on your spark plugs.

Keep reading, you'll catch up eventually, vintagespeed.

Lex
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:51 AM   #56894
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
OK, this is the second or third time I've read of Motolab selling carb parts, yet I see no info on Motolab's postings relative to retail sales.
He's being careful and mindful of the rules...

PM him.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:40 AM   #56895
silverwolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you are convinced that it is running lean, why not install the main jet that makes it run properly at WOT and then determine what the other circuits want?

Regards,

Derek
Because It seems if I am running this lean when it should be rich based on the typical recommendations that something else is going on. I don't want to compensate for something else being wrong with overly rich jetting. Have you ever seen a bike that with the stock exhaust that needed settings as rich as mine or richer?
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