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Old 11-29-2011, 09:38 AM   #57406
phreakingeek
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gsxr pipes

Shortly after buying my DR, i read up on some common mods. I read about the GSXR pipe mod on Jesse's site and went straight to ebay and found a pipe. After buying the pipe, I decided not to do the install since I ride a lot of national forest and they require a spark arrestor.

Does anyone else worry about that? Is there an aftermarket spark arrestor that can be fabbed on the GSXR pipe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I just made a major score at a local salvage yard on multiple 40F0 and 35FO's, was able to hook some DR buddies up while treating myself to the unobtanium GSXR 1000. I had recently scored a 35F0 on Ebay, and had ordered the flange from Jesse at Kientech, but decided to return the flange and sell the exhaust in exchange for the midpipe after talking to a local custom exhaust fabricator who estimated it would cost 200.00 to hook me up; I highly recommend biting the midpipe bullet, as the pipe Jesse sells is a simple bolt up, and the cost is definitely worth it compared to the hassle of fabbing the pipe, locating the bolt holes, building a bracket, etc, etc. After handling the stock exhaust, the 600's, and the 1000 at the same time, I can't recommend this mod highly enough; it transforms the DR650 from a capable bike to a hooligan capable bike; much better sound, much lighter, never needs repacked, and looks stock. I had just finished installing Jesse's Eibachs F and R, 14T CS before installing the 40F0, and I just HAD to go ahead and jet the carb , wish I had waited a bit between these mods so I could identify the individual improvements, but hey, I'm a glutton, and chances like these don't come along every day.
An embarassing moment: I'm an old dude,and not much prone to squidish behaviour, but my son was working on his DR250, so I just had to wheelie up my steep driveway, not thinking that I was carrying to much speed when it leveled off, and so became the latest member of the small group of riders who have crashed in their own garage, just missing my 919, and doing minimal damage to my DR and maximum damage to me self esteem.

Just a shout out to Jesse and Janet at Kientech, nicer and more knowledgeable people you will never find in this or any other field...Jesse is 76, Janet is 72, but they will stay on the phone for as long as it takes to solve any noob problems, I would go to them with parts availibility issues you might be having,
We are going to do a side by side video comparison between the 40F0 the 35F0 as well as the FMF as soon as my friend gets his bolted to his bike; should be a subjective test as they will be filmed with the same camera, same speeds and static location...
and as a teaser, I am very close to finding another non GSXR exhaust that may be usable with a minimum of changes...stay tuned

Final note.... BUY THE PIPE, unless you have the time and/or skill to do it yourself, cost at a local performance fabricator will eat up any perceived profits, at least it did for my, YMMV
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:37 AM   #57407
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Yes - an FMF SA can be installed. Searching for the part number. I did a light grind on the end cap bolts to break the spot weld, cut 3/8 inch off the center pipe and bolted it up. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/FM...RRESTOR-INSERT
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:38 AM   #57408
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Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
You would not normally see the spring, it is a fine, coil spring that runs inside the inner lip of the seal to help it .... seal against the axle.
I would offer up another vote that the steel retaining ring part of the seal is still in the hub. They are molded into the seal so it would LOOK like a rubber strip inside the hub. If it is still there it will need to be gently pried out of the hub before a new seal will fit. Getting a small flat blade screwdriver behind it and prying away from the hub surface should let it buckle and release tension. Gouging the hub surface in the process is NOT recomended.

The seal in your picture doesn't look to be far into the hub (and asalready mentioned it is backwards, needs to turn over), can you pop it out and show another picture of what is behind it?


Bruce
Thanks Bruce,
This is what is behind the seal. a little dirty, most of the rubber I got out from the last seal. So far. it really just looks like the seal is.......to big? It does go in a little, but not any further. No sign of any spring thing either. Hmm.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:39 AM   #57409
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seal fit

this is as far as the new seal goes in.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:57 AM   #57410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Thanks Bruce,
This is what is behind the seal. a little dirty, most of the rubber I got out from the last seal. So far. it really just looks like the seal is.......to big? It does go in a little, but not any further. No sign of any spring thing either. Hmm.
Looks to me like the steel shell from the old seal is still in there. Pry that out and the new seal will pop in just fine.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:01 AM   #57411
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Looks to me like the steel shell from the old seal is still in there. Pry that out and the new seal will pop in just fine.


If that seal wasn't upside down, you'd have an edge to lever the seal out. Now you'll probably have to ruin the seal on the bearing itself getting the shell out.

The bearing hub is flush with the outer race:

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Old 11-29-2011, 11:18 AM   #57412
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post


Yes - an FMF SA can be installed. Searching for the part number. I did a light grind on the end cap bolts to break the spot weld, cut 3/8 inch off the center pipe and bolted it up. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/FM...RRESTOR-INSERT
I didn't want to grind the welds; if you don't shorten the center pipe, it will look like this. The finished result isn't as 'finished'.

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:51 AM   #57413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fitryder View Post
Hello all,

Took my first "longer" ride on the DR today, some 300k.

The first 250 was brilliant! Coming from a cbr600rr I didn't feel like I needed a wheel chair after I stopped after some long stints.

Problem came in the last 50k. The bike started to chug and died. I got off, had a look around, checked fuel, checked the snorkel was breathing, so went to start it again. It did so and away I went. 3km later same thing.
Got off again, check again, waiting 3-4min, started and away I went, this went on another 5-6 times.

Finally some guy was nice enough to stop and we loaded the bike onto his ute, strapped it down and away we went to the mech.
When I got there the mech took it round the block for 3-4k and nothing, so hit the back roads for another 6k and nothing, no dramas at all.

What the hell?
Felt like a fuel problem but fuel flow looked good. He suggested that the highway I was doing open throttle which could have clogged something but urban riding it's more inconsistent. Also when we were loading and unloading on the ute we shook it around a fair bit and it was on some pretty extras angles so many something cleared itself?

I then road home the 7 remaining km no prob, someone highway riding there.

Btw I have the large 30L + safari tank

So now I'm stuck scratching my head.... I'm not the most mechanically minded person so any major work I would have to take it back to the shop. The engine was rebuilt some 500km ago so it's kinda got me stumped.... And very annoyed because now I have a bike I can't trust....
How much fuel did you have left in the tank?? I have the Safari as well. Once you are down to about 1-3 gallons remaining, you can start to get fueling issues. This is because the tank was designed for a carb that is no longer in production on newer DR's (i.e., the fuel inlet to the carb is now higher). This puts the bottom of the "tank wings" lower than to fuel inlet to the carb. It works fine when the tank is full (and for at least 6 gallons), because the fuel creates enough pressure to force the flow. But when it gets low....there can be issues. Some have remedied this by rotated the carb inlet from vertical to a horizontal postition....this will certainly help. If this is your problem, another option is to put a valve on the end of your breather hose (I got mine at an auto parts store). Once you get down to a fuel level in the tank that is causing it to studder, you can then blow into the hose (which pressurizes the tank), then close the valve. If you do this, note that as the fuel burns, the pressure inside the tank is reduced, and eventually a vacuum is created in the tank, which will then cause the bike to studder/stall again (say around 30-50 miles). At that point, you simply open the valve and repressurize the tank. It's somewhat of a pain in the ass....however, I've been in places where I needed the range, and was glad I had it. Like I said, it should run trouble free for around 6 gallons....but you have to work to utilize the remaining fuel.

Curious to know if this is your issue.

The Breeze
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:53 AM   #57414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Looks to me like the steel shell from the old seal is still in there. Pry that out and the new seal will pop in just fine.
so if I get out the metal shell, the rubber seal should go in? It doesn't need a new metal shell? So why does the metal need to be in there? The new seal has no metal piece with it.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:58 AM   #57415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
How much fuel did you have left in the tank?? I have the Safari as well. Once you are down to about 1-3 gallons remaining, you can start to get fueling issues. This is because the tank was designed for a carb that is no longer in production on newer DR's (i.e., the fuel inlet to the carb is now higher). This puts the bottom of the "tank wings" lower than to fuel inlet to the carb. It works fine when the tank is full (and for at least 6 gallons), because the fuel creates enough pressure to force the flow. But when it gets low....there can be issues. Some have remedied this by rotated the carb inlet from vertical to a horizontal postition....this will certainly help. If this is your problem, another option is to put a valve on the end of your breather hose (I got mine at an auto parts store). Once you get down to a fuel level in the tank that is causing it to studder, you can then blow into the hose (which pressurizes the tank), then close the valve. If you do this, note that as the fuel burns, the pressure inside the tank is reduced, and eventually a vacuum is created in the tank, which will then cause the bike to studder/stall again (say around 30-50 miles). At that point, you simply open the valve and repressurize the tank. It's somewhat of a pain in the ass....however, I've been in places where I needed the range, and was glad I had it. Like I said, it should run trouble free for around 6 gallons....but you have to work to utilize the remaining fuel.

Curious to know if this is your issue.

The Breeze
could be water couple drops rolling around and going down the hole once in awhile , did it start right after a refuel
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:01 PM   #57416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fitryder View Post
Hello all,

What the hell?

Btw I have the large 30L + safari tank

t....
The petcocks are so low on the Safari that the fuel line has to make a 'tall' loop to get on the carb inlet. That will trap air and literally vapor lock.

So if the tank is anywhere below half (guesstimate), the bike might stall. Next time it happens add fuel to raise the fuel pressure in the tank (head).

There's a video on how to twist the carb inlet, done by someone at Safari. But I'm late and have to leave.

This is not the issue if it's happening with a full-ish fuel tank.

205'd
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:04 PM   #57417
planemanx15
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Help!!!

Took the DR for a ride today with the new TM-40 carb. When I first starting the bike, i let it run for a few mins with the choke on, and when I shut it off, the bike died, Just figured it still cold, so I started again, and just rode with choke off, throttle up. it was all street riding, mostly on the highway, only about 20 miles, and died at one light when I bleeped the throttle. I got home and it felt like the idle was a bit low, so i turned the knob in a little bit it while sitting on the bike. I smelled gas, but thought nothing of it. Got off the bike while it was running, and saw fuel spilling out of the vent hose. I followed the vent hose up, and it was the one under the Idle adjustment (see pic). What is this from? When I shut the petcock off, the fuel stops flowing from the vent hose.

I would like some advice before I start pulling the carb apart, Thanks guys..
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:07 PM   #57418
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Originally Posted by newride View Post
so if I get out the metal shell, the rubber seal should go in? It doesn't need a new metal shell? So why does the metal need to be in there? The new seal has no metal piece with it.
The metal shell is rubber coated, it is the seal, that's why you had so much trouble getting the rubber peeled out of the wheel. Try to bend your new seal, it isn't the rubber giving that stiffness.
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:13 PM   #57419
newride
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
The metal shell is rubber coated, it is the seal, that's why you had so much trouble getting the rubber peeled out of the wheel. Try to bend your new seal, it isn't the rubber giving that stiffness.
ahhhh, Thanks so much.
Now to get that metal piece out without destroying the bearings.........
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:03 PM   #57420
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Took the DR for a ride today with the new TM-40 carb. When I first starting the bike, i let it run for a few mins with the choke on, and when I shut it off, the bike died, Just figured it still cold, so I started again, and just rode with choke off, throttle up. it was all street riding, mostly on the highway, only about 20 miles, and died at one light when I bleeped the throttle. I got home and it felt like the idle was a bit low, so i turned the knob in a little bit it while sitting on the bike. I smelled gas, but thought nothing of it. Got off the bike while it was running, and saw fuel spilling out of the vent hose. I followed the vent hose up, and it was the one under the Idle adjustment (see pic). What is this from? When I shut the petcock off, the fuel stops flowing from the vent hose.

I would like some advice before I start pulling the carb apart, Thanks guys..
Ughh.. The worst kind of problem... I went out to the bike after it cooled and bit and tried to simulate the problem again... No luck
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