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Old 12-19-2011, 07:35 AM   #58066
Rumlover
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Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
My 2009 DR650 is a bit cold blooded. This morning, the bike wouldn't start, 28F. I stopped trying it before the battery drained, but now I'm wondering if I should have maybe turned the air/fuel mixture screw some? If so, which way should I turn it? Thanks.
28 is cold! Do you store it outside? How long since it was started?
One thing that helps is to make sure you are starting with the float bowl full, so put it on prime for a minute or so.
Obviously you should be on full choke/enricher, and I would try it with no throttle opening at first.
If you want to turn the fuel screw an 1/8 or 1/4 turn more open it may help in extreme cold weather riding, but be careful you can hurt mileage and drivability if you go too far.
Other then that keep the battery on a battery tender, and cover or keep the bike as protected as possible if storing outside. This is also when synthetic oil can be of a benefit because of its ability to flow better in cold weather and put less drag on the engine. Good luck!
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:47 AM   #58067
dljocky
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Thanks, I usually ride it everyday. It was last started yesterday. Sorry, but which way to turn it more open, to the left?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
28 is cold! Do you store it outside? How long since it was started?
One thing that helps is to make sure you are starting with the float bowl full, so put it on prime for a minute or so.
Obviously you should be on full choke/enricher, and I would try it with no throttle opening at first.
If you want to turn the fuel screw an 1/8 or 1/4 turn more open it may help in extreme cold weather riding, but be careful you can hurt mileage and drivability if you go too far.
Other then that keep the battery on a battery tender, and cover or keep the bike as protected as possible if storing outside. This is also when synthetic oil can be of a benefit because of its ability to flow better in cold weather and put less drag on the engine. Good luck!
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:53 AM   #58068
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Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks, I usually ride it everyday. It was last started yesterday. Sorry, but which way to turn it more open, to the left?
Yes. Imagine you are looking up at it from underneath, it would be counter-clockwise.
Hokey description, but you get the idea.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:12 AM   #58069
dljocky
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Thanks. Now, does that allow more fuel in to conpensate for the more denser air?



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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Yes. Imagine you are looking up at it from underneath, it would be counter-clockwise.
Hokey description, but you get the idea.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:28 AM   #58070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks. Now, does that allow more fuel in to conpensate for the more denser air?
Turning the screw out does allow more fuel in.

A fuel "rich" mixture makes for easier starting in cold weather and better drivability when the engine is still warming up, which may be quite awhile at the lower temps.

I don't do a lot of cold weather riding on the DR (so I am making some assumptions here), but I would assume it might help with the denser cold air a little, but I am not sure how it would help or hurt once the engine is up to normal operating temps (assuming it can get there at 28f and less).
It just might end up being a trade-off\compromise -- of getting less then optimal fuel mileage for a little better cold weather startup and drivability.
Let us know how it goes.

Rumlover screwed with this post 12-19-2011 at 08:39 AM
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:36 AM   #58071
dljocky
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Thanks,
I appreciate it. What I'll do, is once the engine is warm, I'll just turn the screw back. Once again, thanks for your time.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Turning the screw out does allow more fuel in.

A fuel "rich" mixture makes for easier starting in cold weather and better drivability when the engine is still warming up, which may be quite awhile at the lower temps.

I don't do a lot of cold weather riding on the DR (so I am making some assumptions here), but I would assume it might help with the denser cold air a little, but I am not sure how it would help or hurt once the engine is up to full operating temps. It just might end up being a trade-off\compromise -- of getting less then optimal fuel mileage for a little better cold weather startup and drivability.
Let us know how it goes.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:54 AM   #58072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
....When the bike is off the petcock is closed as the vacuum is gone....Just leave it to on/run and enjoy.
good advice as long as your vac petcock diaphragm isn't leaking, my '06 at 11k miles failed and poured out fuel in the ON position. i swapped to a Raptor petcock just for $20 worth of peace of mind.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #58073
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
My 2009 DR650 is a bit cold blooded. This morning, the bike wouldn't start, 28F. I stopped trying it before the battery drained, but now I'm wondering if I should have maybe turned the air/fuel mixture screw some? If so, which way should I turn it? Thanks.
Make sure fuel is turned ON for a minute before you start cranking. Turn Air/Fuel mixture OUT about one half turn ...And ... turn idle up One full turn. Full Choke. Don't touch the Throttle.

Doing this should help starting .... but a good battery is most important. 28F is not that cold. Parking inside really helps. Keep your battery on a charger over night if you can. Good luck ... and don't forget to re-set Air/Fuel screw and idle once the motor is fully warm. Some cover the Oil Cooler in super cold riding. Not a bad idea in temps at or near freezing.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:13 AM   #58074
dljocky
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 845
Thanks for the advice. Last yr, the bike was hard to start in colder temps, but always started. I'll try some of these suggestions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Make sure fuel is turned ON for a minute before you start cranking. Turn Air/Fuel mixture OUT about one half turn ...And ... turn idle up One full turn. Full Choke. Don't touch the Throttle.

Doing this should help starting .... but a good battery is most important. 28F is not that cold. Parking inside really helps. Keep your battery on a charger over night if you can. Good luck ... and don't forget to re-set Air/Fuel screw and idle once the motor is fully warm. Some cover the Oil Cooler in super cold riding. Not a bad idea in temps at or near freezing.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:27 AM   #58075
Weldman
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Mine's been hard to start with the increasing cold

too. Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:32 AM   #58076
dljocky
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Under the bottom of the carb. If the plug has been drilled out, you can put a small screwdriver up into it, but some of those screws have an aftermarket screw that you can turn with your hand. Hope this helps.


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too. Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:58 AM   #58077
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Thanks hombre'

guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:15 PM   #58078
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I notice harder starts in cold weather, (below freezing) but I really think it's a function of battery strength. When it's cols, the draw on the battery is greater for several reasons. If your battery is marginal, I believe the power available to the ignition isn't as good and a weaker spark is part of the trouble.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:43 PM   #58079
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
First locate where the screw is. It's bottom and forward of the float bowl, it's inset ... so you can't see it.
If there is already an extended fuel screw installed ... you will see it there. If you see nothing then chances are the little Tin seal is still in place denying access to the adjustment screw. It needs to come out. Very easy:

Use a wall board screw ... poke it into the Tin, give it a half turn and pull it out. Done. This all is best done with Carb OUT.

The adjustment screw is INSET ... it's tiny and hard to get to. Use the proper screw driver.

But ... you can also gain access by simply loosening up both manifold straps, removing throttle and choke cables from Carb and then Rotating Carb around.

I would not do any of this until you have an Extended Fuel Screw in hand to replace the stock item.

When you unscrew the stock screw, don't loose the spring, washer and O ring. They are tiny and will fall out and BE GONE ....

Before removing stock screw ... screw it in all the way and count how many turns it goes in until lightly seated. That is your baseline. Now remove stock screw.

Once the stock screw is out you can swap over the O ring, washer and spring onto the new Fuel Screw (some kits may provide these parts) and screw in the new fuel screw ... reset to previous baseline.

The difference is that NOW you can easily "Tune" your fuel/air mixture (motor fully warm) and calibrate it to any changes you make to the fuel and air. (intake, exhaust, jetting)
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:53 PM   #58080
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
There's a flush brass cap on the stock set-up, easy to see with a mirror. When I did mine, I removed the carb, but left the throttle cables attached (seemed easiest). You'll have to loosen the two carb clamps to twist the carb so you can drill a small hole in the plug (1/8" or thereabouts). Remember that there are two hoses on the right side of the carb that fit tightly, they'll resist letting the carb twist and it seems the throttle cables also hit the frame backbone. That's why I pulled the carb loose. Once you have the pilot hole drilled, use a small self tapping screw to pull the plug. It isn't in there very tight, mine twisted a little when the bit grabbed. Go gently, the fuel screw is right under the plug, 3/16" maybe.

If you want to remove the throttle cable bracket, those two screws were the tightest I've found on the DR, almost 'red Loctite' tight. If I didn't have an impact driver, they weren't coming out. Have two allen heads to replace them, for future ease of disassembly.
205'd by Grifter, here's a pic:

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