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Old 12-18-2011, 01:14 PM   #58066
gumbometer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
If you have a reserve, prime and run then it's a vacuum operated petcock. When you start the engine it pulls a vacuum on the petcock from the second hose and opens it. When the bike is off the petcock is closed as the vacuum is gone. Prime will flow fuel without the engine on and is used to prime the carb if it sits for a while and the fuel in the bowl evaporates. Shouldn't need it if you are running daily. Just leave it to on/run and enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carcajou View Post
OK,
It has been a long time since I had a bike with a carb sine I have been chasing the rondel and she is fuel injected. My DR has a petcock and it has thee positions. The PO put an aftermarket tank and petcock. So there is reserve, prime and run (i guess). Should I turn it off of run when I park her? Not having any problems just wondering. She is a daily rider. Thanks Carcajou
To qualify what I said earlier, my comment applies to gravity-fed petcocks like the one that comes with the aftermarket IMS tank, where the three positions for the selector are Off / On / Reserve. If it's a vacuum-operated petcock like the stock one, leave it on "On", like silverwolf said.
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:31 PM   #58067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truck6driver View Post
Hey all,

Have a chance to trade my CB650SC for a 91' DR650. What are some issues that I should be looking for on this model. I know it is a kick start only but other than that no nothing about it.

Pros and cons of the year models I need to look for?

Thanks

Ray
Here's a thread for the pre '96 DR:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61568
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:35 PM   #58068
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Pre 96 DR thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by truck6driver View Post
Hey all,

Have a chance to trade my CB650SC for a 91' DR650. What are some issues that I should be looking for on this model. I know it is a kick start only but other than that no nothing about it.

Pros and cons of the year models I need to look for?

Thanks

Ray

There is a separate thread for pre 96 DR 650s. Some of the inmates here might be knowledgeable about both versions, many of us only have experience with the "new" one.
Search/Look Here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61568

Good Luck, they (pre-96) are very different from the post 96 bikes but I will bet it is still lots of fun.

Bruce

edit: Looks like I type too slow!
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:28 PM   #58069
truck6driver
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Thank you I will post there.

Ray
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:02 PM   #58070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not positive ... but pretty sure metal base gaskets didn't come until '04 or '05. Not sure. But that could be how a bit metal bit got in the engine.

Others here will no more on year when Suzuki began using Metal base gaskets. Many owners changed them out ... another unnecessary expense as you can fix the oil leak with a bead of Silicone.

Fingers crossed for you ... but I'm sure ALL IS WELL! BE HAPPY .... ENJOY THE RIDE!
My 02 leaked at like 1600 miles. Silicone didn't work, so I did the metal gasket. It was a good way to acquaint myself with the engine.

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Old 12-18-2011, 06:36 PM   #58071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
So you won't be surprised I still have that extra header Dave took off of his bike when you were here. Avail if needed.
Nope. That doesn't surprise me one bit, and thanks for the offer. Haven't got it fixed yet but will be visiting a Suzuki dealer in Oaxaca tomorrow morning.

Turned up the music between Guadalajara and Oaxaca and it wasn't really THAT bad. Plus, I've never gotten such good gas mileage and pep out of the beast. Bit noisy in town, that's for sure. Can't imagine buying a new motorcycle that sounded like that. There is one manufacturer like that out there but I forget the name .

May still give you a call about the pipe and gasket if I can't find some other easier way to solve the problem. Thanks as always for your offer of help.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:15 PM   #58072
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not positive ... but pretty sure metal base gaskets didn't come until '04 or '05. Not sure. But that could be how a bit metal bit got in the engine.

Others here will no more on year when Suzuki began using Metal base gaskets. Many owners changed them out ... another unnecessary expense as you can fix the oil leak with a bead of Silicone.

Fingers crossed for you ... but I'm sure ALL IS WELL! BE HAPPY .... ENJOY THE RIDE!
mid 2003 the perfected base gasket started being used.
on 03s you need to look for that extra external loop piece to be assured you have the updated gasket.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:45 AM   #58073
dljocky
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cold starting question

Good day all,
My 2009 DR650 is a bit cold blooded. This morning, the bike wouldn't start, 28F. I stopped trying it before the battery drained, but now I'm wondering if I should have maybe turned the air/fuel mixture screw some? If so, which way should I turn it? Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:35 AM   #58074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
My 2009 DR650 is a bit cold blooded. This morning, the bike wouldn't start, 28F. I stopped trying it before the battery drained, but now I'm wondering if I should have maybe turned the air/fuel mixture screw some? If so, which way should I turn it? Thanks.
28 is cold! Do you store it outside? How long since it was started?
One thing that helps is to make sure you are starting with the float bowl full, so put it on prime for a minute or so.
Obviously you should be on full choke/enricher, and I would try it with no throttle opening at first.
If you want to turn the fuel screw an 1/8 or 1/4 turn more open it may help in extreme cold weather riding, but be careful you can hurt mileage and drivability if you go too far.
Other then that keep the battery on a battery tender, and cover or keep the bike as protected as possible if storing outside. This is also when synthetic oil can be of a benefit because of its ability to flow better in cold weather and put less drag on the engine. Good luck!
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:47 AM   #58075
dljocky
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Thanks, I usually ride it everyday. It was last started yesterday. Sorry, but which way to turn it more open, to the left?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
28 is cold! Do you store it outside? How long since it was started?
One thing that helps is to make sure you are starting with the float bowl full, so put it on prime for a minute or so.
Obviously you should be on full choke/enricher, and I would try it with no throttle opening at first.
If you want to turn the fuel screw an 1/8 or 1/4 turn more open it may help in extreme cold weather riding, but be careful you can hurt mileage and drivability if you go too far.
Other then that keep the battery on a battery tender, and cover or keep the bike as protected as possible if storing outside. This is also when synthetic oil can be of a benefit because of its ability to flow better in cold weather and put less drag on the engine. Good luck!
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:53 AM   #58076
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks, I usually ride it everyday. It was last started yesterday. Sorry, but which way to turn it more open, to the left?
Yes. Imagine you are looking up at it from underneath, it would be counter-clockwise.
Hokey description, but you get the idea.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:12 AM   #58077
dljocky
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Thanks. Now, does that allow more fuel in to conpensate for the more denser air?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Yes. Imagine you are looking up at it from underneath, it would be counter-clockwise.
Hokey description, but you get the idea.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:28 AM   #58078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks. Now, does that allow more fuel in to conpensate for the more denser air?
Turning the screw out does allow more fuel in.

A fuel "rich" mixture makes for easier starting in cold weather and better drivability when the engine is still warming up, which may be quite awhile at the lower temps.

I don't do a lot of cold weather riding on the DR (so I am making some assumptions here), but I would assume it might help with the denser cold air a little, but I am not sure how it would help or hurt once the engine is up to normal operating temps (assuming it can get there at 28f and less).
It just might end up being a trade-off\compromise -- of getting less then optimal fuel mileage for a little better cold weather startup and drivability.
Let us know how it goes.

Rumlover screwed with this post 12-19-2011 at 08:39 AM
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:36 AM   #58079
dljocky
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Thanks,
I appreciate it. What I'll do, is once the engine is warm, I'll just turn the screw back. Once again, thanks for your time.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Turning the screw out does allow more fuel in.

A fuel "rich" mixture makes for easier starting in cold weather and better drivability when the engine is still warming up, which may be quite awhile at the lower temps.

I don't do a lot of cold weather riding on the DR (so I am making some assumptions here), but I would assume it might help with the denser cold air a little, but I am not sure how it would help or hurt once the engine is up to full operating temps. It just might end up being a trade-off\compromise -- of getting less then optimal fuel mileage for a little better cold weather startup and drivability.
Let us know how it goes.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:54 AM   #58080
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
....When the bike is off the petcock is closed as the vacuum is gone....Just leave it to on/run and enjoy.
good advice as long as your vac petcock diaphragm isn't leaking, my '06 at 11k miles failed and poured out fuel in the ON position. i swapped to a Raptor petcock just for $20 worth of peace of mind.
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