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Old 12-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #58081
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
My 2009 DR650 is a bit cold blooded. This morning, the bike wouldn't start, 28F. I stopped trying it before the battery drained, but now I'm wondering if I should have maybe turned the air/fuel mixture screw some? If so, which way should I turn it? Thanks.
Make sure fuel is turned ON for a minute before you start cranking. Turn Air/Fuel mixture OUT about one half turn ...And ... turn idle up One full turn. Full Choke. Don't touch the Throttle.

Doing this should help starting .... but a good battery is most important. 28F is not that cold. Parking inside really helps. Keep your battery on a charger over night if you can. Good luck ... and don't forget to re-set Air/Fuel screw and idle once the motor is fully warm. Some cover the Oil Cooler in super cold riding. Not a bad idea in temps at or near freezing.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:13 AM   #58082
dljocky
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Thanks for the advice. Last yr, the bike was hard to start in colder temps, but always started. I'll try some of these suggestions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Make sure fuel is turned ON for a minute before you start cranking. Turn Air/Fuel mixture OUT about one half turn ...And ... turn idle up One full turn. Full Choke. Don't touch the Throttle.

Doing this should help starting .... but a good battery is most important. 28F is not that cold. Parking inside really helps. Keep your battery on a charger over night if you can. Good luck ... and don't forget to re-set Air/Fuel screw and idle once the motor is fully warm. Some cover the Oil Cooler in super cold riding. Not a bad idea in temps at or near freezing.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:27 AM   #58083
Weldman
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Mine's been hard to start with the increasing cold

too. Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:32 AM   #58084
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Under the bottom of the carb. If the plug has been drilled out, you can put a small screwdriver up into it, but some of those screws have an aftermarket screw that you can turn with your hand. Hope this helps.


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too. Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:58 AM   #58085
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Thanks hombre'

guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:15 PM   #58086
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I notice harder starts in cold weather, (below freezing) but I really think it's a function of battery strength. When it's cols, the draw on the battery is greater for several reasons. If your battery is marginal, I believe the power available to the ignition isn't as good and a weaker spark is part of the trouble.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:43 PM   #58087
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
First locate where the screw is. It's bottom and forward of the float bowl, it's inset ... so you can't see it.
If there is already an extended fuel screw installed ... you will see it there. If you see nothing then chances are the little Tin seal is still in place denying access to the adjustment screw. It needs to come out. Very easy:

Use a wall board screw ... poke it into the Tin, give it a half turn and pull it out. Done. This all is best done with Carb OUT.

The adjustment screw is INSET ... it's tiny and hard to get to. Use the proper screw driver.

But ... you can also gain access by simply loosening up both manifold straps, removing throttle and choke cables from Carb and then Rotating Carb around.

I would not do any of this until you have an Extended Fuel Screw in hand to replace the stock item.

When you unscrew the stock screw, don't loose the spring, washer and O ring. They are tiny and will fall out and BE GONE ....

Before removing stock screw ... screw it in all the way and count how many turns it goes in until lightly seated. That is your baseline. Now remove stock screw.

Once the stock screw is out you can swap over the O ring, washer and spring onto the new Fuel Screw (some kits may provide these parts) and screw in the new fuel screw ... reset to previous baseline.

The difference is that NOW you can easily "Tune" your fuel/air mixture (motor fully warm) and calibrate it to any changes you make to the fuel and air. (intake, exhaust, jetting)
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:53 PM   #58088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
guess I'll find out if mine's got a plug still on it later. Can you get the plug out with the carb still mounted?
There's a flush brass cap on the stock set-up, easy to see with a mirror. When I did mine, I removed the carb, but left the throttle cables attached (seemed easiest). You'll have to loosen the two carb clamps to twist the carb so you can drill a small hole in the plug (1/8" or thereabouts). Remember that there are two hoses on the right side of the carb that fit tightly, they'll resist letting the carb twist and it seems the throttle cables also hit the frame backbone. That's why I pulled the carb loose. Once you have the pilot hole drilled, use a small self tapping screw to pull the plug. It isn't in there very tight, mine twisted a little when the bit grabbed. Go gently, the fuel screw is right under the plug, 3/16" maybe.

If you want to remove the throttle cable bracket, those two screws were the tightest I've found on the DR, almost 'red Loctite' tight. If I didn't have an impact driver, they weren't coming out. Have two allen heads to replace them, for future ease of disassembly.
205'd by Grifter, here's a pic:

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-19-2011 at 01:00 PM
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:01 PM   #58089
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Great info. guys!

and thanks for the pic!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:43 PM   #58090
kobukan
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Stock Side Stand

I'm looking for a standard length side stand. Bought a bike that was lowered and need to raise it back up. I posted in the flea market, but thought I'd ask here in case one of you guys lowered your bike and have one you might be willing to part with for a reasonable price.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:29 PM   #58091
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I'd just turn out the idle adjust screw 1 full turn & see if that solves your cold starts..

It was all mine needed, & it's easier than changing the fuel screw/enrichener setting...assuming you've already enrichened/turned out your fuel screw...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
too. Where's this mixture screw at?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:36 PM   #58092
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What happened to Moto-Sport Panniers??

Hi Gang, anyone know what's happened to Motosport Panniers..those nice silver or black auliminum ones Shu used on his epic journey??
They were located down in So Cal, I'd spoken with a guy named Ove last year, but now the website points to some dude's soft pannier site out of Colorado. Anyone know what gives?
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:21 PM   #58093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVBedouin View Post
Hi Gang, anyone know what's happened to Motosport Panniers..those nice silver or black auliminum ones Shu used on his epic journey??
They were located down in So Cal, I'd spoken with a guy named Ove last year, but now the website points to some dude's soft pannier site out of Colorado. Anyone know what gives?
they've always been in colorado? same company as dirtbagz.
they dropped the racks and hardbag line awhile back.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:26 PM   #58094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVBedouin View Post
Hi Gang, anyone know what's happened to Motosport Panniers..those nice silver or black auliminum ones Shu used on his epic journey??
They were located down in So Cal, I'd spoken with a guy named Ove last year, but now the website points to some dude's soft pannier site out of Colorado. Anyone know what gives?
Epic Journey...

I can tell you, Bedouin. Sadly, no more Motosport Panniers.

The Colorado guy, Ed, was 1/2 the business. He's the same guy who makes Dirt Bagz and also owns Motogear Outlet with his wife ( great people to do business with). Anyway, Ed made the soft bags for Motosport Panniers.

Ove, the guy in California, had the machine shop and made the brackets and the metal panniers. The way I understand it Ove was 70+ years old and only doing it to keep busy and he decided this year that he'd had enough and closed the business down.

..................shu
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:33 PM   #58095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There's a flush brass cap on the stock set-up, easy to see with a mirror. When I did mine, I removed the carb, but left the throttle cables attached (seemed easiest). You'll have to loosen the two carb clamps to twist the carb so you can drill a small hole in the plug (1/8" or thereabouts). Remember that there are two hoses on the right side of the carb that fit tightly, they'll resist letting the carb twist and it seems the throttle cables also hit the frame backbone. That's why I pulled the carb loose. Once you have the pilot hole drilled, use a small self tapping screw to pull the plug. It isn't in there very tight, mine twisted a little when the bit grabbed. Go gently, the fuel screw is right under the plug, 3/16" maybe.
Yes, mine had a brass plug in there as well. Mine was pretty tight but I used the same procedure to remove it: drill a little hole through it, twist a screw into the hole, grab the screw with some pliers and work the thing out. I took the carb off and did on my workbench though, I didn't want to take the chance of screwing things up because of bad position, bad light, loose work etc.

............shu
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