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Old 12-23-2011, 07:29 PM   #58231
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whl-hoop View Post
Are there any changes over the years, post '96, on the DR? I know about the metal base gasket, is there anything else that's changed other than colors? Any years to avoid?

I have wr250r now, and I'm thinking the DR might compliment it pretty well as a simple, torquey street bike (probably sumo'd).
And the advantage to Sumo-ing a DR650?

If you actually plan to go Super Moto racing ... then great. Makes sense. If you have lots and lots of perfectly smooth, tight mountain corners in Minnesota ... and you think you are fast .... well then, once again go that way.

But a 21" has several advantages. Typical dual sport tires work very well on wet roads and wick away water better than sport tires. They also perform far better in gravel or mud strewn corners on paved roads.

For just commuting or long highway tours ... no difference other than 21" tires will last longer and are cheaper than 17" sport bike tires.
The fact is ... a decent rider on a stock DR650 with stock tires can achieve fairly decent corner speeds and get well leaned over. When the bumpy parts come along mid corner the 21" tire will handle it better and if sliding happens, it's easier go into flat track savior mode to recover.
Than of course there is off road.
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:38 PM   #58232
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If your primary use is commuting and zipping around paved twisties, and highway use and only see light dirt while wanting an affordable easy to maintain motorcycle a sumo DR is awesome. A 21 front can be sketchy with 2 of the 3 mentioned above. The bike feels more PLANTED, and lowers the whole thing considerably.
I made my last DR a half sumo, and the 09 I have now came with full sumo setup. Which as you can see from the posts above I'm converting to more dirt oriented. It all comes down to what YOU want to do with her.
And with the sumo setup you can do a track day yes, it's pretty cool riding TO the track, ON the track, then home.

It's not blasphemous to make a DR a street yard by any means.
So not that's it's anything new, but I disagree with 90% of what Grifter says
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:20 PM   #58233
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Changes. Exhaust, carb kits, carbs, tire choices, SUMO..... Part of the fun of motorcycling IMO. I got an extra wheelset and mounted up a set of 705's....what a huge difference from my dirt set. A completely different feel. A full SUMO or the 19 are another option and just land in the tinkering / farkling fun bucket.

I can't ride mine to it's potential now, but I wish I had the funds for a SUMO rear with the 19.....(like the look over the 17).

Just adds to the fun and variety the bike holds for those that want to change things up. Part of why I like the bike and this thread....always learning something new.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:30 PM   #58234
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Easy to see who has not spent any time on a proper SM DR.



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Old 12-23-2011, 09:20 PM   #58235
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Got an increasing problem i need to address and looking for feedback...

My DR was used and when i bought it, i took apart the rear suspension linkage and pulled out the swingarm. I lubed all the bearing and reassy using the manual and the proper torque specs w/ a high quality wrench.
On the linkage, the lowest pivot point (needle bearing w/ shaft in the middle) was bone dry and even rusted some. At that time i packed it with grease and figured it does not rotate but a small bit so it should be ok and maybe the fresh grease will get the rollers moving again. All other bearing were drier (4k of use) but non-rsuted. I also did a Cogent shock rebuild too & did a fresh w/ him this last year.

Fast forward and i've got a clunk in my rear suspension and seems to getting worse when i push it. All bolts are still torqued correct so i've elminated that.
New bearings in the rear wheel and cush assy and new cush rubber 6 mo ago, so that's been adressed.
Bike has 10k miles and the chain is original and so-so, but still seems good. Sprockets show little wear.

Can that rusted needle bearing be slowly going bad/compressing? I guess if it was not rotating (too much rust and never lossened up after i regreased it @ 4k when i got the bike) on the inner rod, the same surface spot is contacting that inner rod and wearing away? Could that happen?

It's fine when i'm pavement and shows when i push it in the dirt. When i ride at slower speeds in the dirt w/out a helmet so i can listen, i do not hear the noise/clunk. It's only at higher speeds.

Any way to test for play in the rear? Been looking to get the rebuild kit from Procycle but that is not feasable until in back in Colorado this spring.

Any ideas??? Chain? Shock? End eyelets of the shock go bad? Or is it just rebuild the rear pivot points?

Anyone have this issue w/ DR or other bike and replace the pivot bearings and fix it?
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eakins screwed with this post 12-23-2011 at 09:26 PM
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:32 PM   #58236
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I assume you've checked the swingarm bolt?

Whatever it is, it might help to have an extra person or two for help: one person stands on the pegs and uses their weight to bounce the bike up and down, the other person looks carefully at everything that moves. Having the 3rd person to steady the bike really helps.



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Old 12-23-2011, 10:23 PM   #58237
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:38 PM   #58238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
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Hey Al..........


Bill:
Put the bike on a stand, lever under the tire, have someone press and release while you put a finger on each pivot and feel for movement. I'd start at the rusty bearing. Tell 'em not to jump on the lever, because in everyone's life, there is someone special who will do just that.

Like this:

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Old 12-23-2011, 10:38 PM   #58239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Fast forward and i've got a clunk in my rear suspension and seems to getting worse when i push it. All bolts are still torqued correct so i've elminated that.
Sounds like the lower shock or cushion arm bearings.
Mine is doing the same.
If you lift the back of the bike up and down, you can feel the clunk.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:41 PM   #58240
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Hey Al..........
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #58241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Sounds like the lower shock or cushion arm bearings.
Mine is doing the same.
If you lift the back of the bike up and down, you can feel the clunk.
the lower shock eyelet goes bad? if so is that replacable?
update: looked at mine and it has the complete updated lower unit from cogent

cushion arm bearing? where is that?
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:54 AM   #58242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I assume you've checked the swingarm bolt?

Whatever it is, it might help to have an extra person or two for help: one person stands on the pegs and uses their weight to bounce the bike up and down, the other person looks carefully at everything that moves. Having the 3rd person to steady the bike really helps.



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i'll try that. thnx
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:55 AM   #58243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Hey Al..........


Bill:
Put the bike on a stand, lever under the tire, have someone press and release while you put a finger on each pivot and feel for movement. I'd start at the rusty bearing. Tell 'em not to jump on the lever, because in everyone's life, there is someone special who will do just that.

Like this:

good idea!
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:25 AM   #58244
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
It's not blasphemous to make a DR a street yard by any means. So not that's it's anything new, but I disagree with 90% of what Grifter says

Not saying it's blasphemy ... just wanted the guy to understand what a Sumo works best at ... and what you're giving up and what you've gained.

BTW, I'm looking forward to hearing about your 19" conversion. IMHO, this is a great idea and has potential to do everything really well. Far as I know ... you're the first to do this Congrats! Could this be the next trend?

Just keep in mind that geometry will have changed and getting things balanced is important. (this true on a full Sumo 17" X 17" conversion as well)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Easy to see who has not spent any time on a proper SM DR.
I'm no Super Moto expert but I'm not new to it either. Our magazine did two projects back in around 1998. Were you riding Super Moto bikes then?

We had a '97 DR650 test bike we bought from Suzuki (it had been crashed) This was early days of Super Moto racing in California. Cycle World's Don Canet and a few others where boosting it ... so the editor decided to do a piece on it.

A small race fabricator company handled the build, they did wide 17" wheels at both ends, Ohlins shock, re-worked Race tech forks, bigger rotors, lightened the bike up and got it track ready. The other bike was new Honda XR650R that had been made street legal. It was owned by one of our editors and not intended for the track was made to be convertable from Sumo to Dual Sport. Similar procedure with the Honda, but USD forks were added. I got to ride both bikes and neither were very good on our tight back roads, IMHO. So I've seen these builds done ... by pretty good fabricator/racers and the results were underwhelming. Russ, the Honda guy, sold off everything and kept the bike as a dual sport. The DR was put back to stock ... finally dropped an NSU bolt in 2006 ... and that's where I got my Ohlins shock from!

That same year we also tested the KTM Duke l. Impressive but not reliable.
But 2001 things had changed. I bought a near new 2001 KTM Duke ll. The magazine did a comparo of the standard Duke ll (my bike) and the KTM 640 SM. I spent two weeks riding both. These two bikes were streets ahead of either the DR650 Sumo conversion or Honda XR650R. Different world.

My Duke ll ... it still looks very good even 10 years later!
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:41 AM   #58245
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Anyone have this issue w/ DR or other bike and replace the pivot bearings and fix it?
I don't have anything specific to add. I have had cushion link bearings (linkage) rust up and make noise. Usually they squeak. Not sure about clunking ... could be several things.

I guess you'll need to start pulling things apart and look for problems, play, rust or missing needle bearings. (easy to lose) Could be something as simple as re-torqueing the big swing arm bolts ... or could be the shock itself.

Good luck with it ... and Merry Christmas.
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