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Old 12-26-2011, 07:55 AM   #58291
TrophyHunter
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Mayrel - very well said and a lot of my same thoughts. I enjoyed the bike in it's stock form but threw some "hot rod" money at it when I sold my WR450. It made it to "warm" which is plenty for my skills. Puts a smile on my face every time I ride - which is what I figure it's about.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:00 AM   #58292
ThomasVolomitz
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DR650 is not only fun to ride, but to customize to suit your tastes as well. Can't say enough good things about it, and probably will never sell it.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:02 AM   #58293
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I know I talked about doing this about 1-2 months ago and several seemed interested. I finally got around to checking my bike with an A/F gauge. Took longer then expected to get the bung welded in the midpipe-then when I finally got it back together I found I let the bike sit for too long and the carb needed cleaning. Lucky me. At this point I had to decide to take the carb off, clean it and put it back on stock or change out the jets. Hmmm. Well, in the name of science I cleaned it and put it back on stock to see what I see. My only regret is I didn’t get to do this with the stock muffler. So, on with the mad science!

The bike info is as follows:
2009 Suzuki DR650se, stock gearing/chain, IMS tank, twin air filter (no air box mod), tires are Pirelli Scorpion Trails, and I put a Yoshimura RS-3 muffler and midpipe. The muffler has the quiet baffle (if you can call it that) and I have put a steal 4” baffle (like the ones in HD straight pipes just cut down) in the mid-pipe to mellow the sound some.

Other factors: Bike was run on a low humidity day, 48 degrees F., at approx. 900 ft elevation. All of the following results are after the bike was ridden for 15-20min to warm it up.

Idle 1500rpm: A/F 16.1
I was really surprised at this. The bike definitely needs some more fuel at idle. Should smooth it out and make it start easier in the cold. As a side note, with the choke on at first startup it was only down to 14.8 which is still too lean.

The next numbers were taken on a flat straight road with the bike in 5th gear. I would hold the bike at that rpm for approx 1-2 min to let everything stabilize to get a good reading. Basically these are cruise/high vacuum condition numbers and represent what the needle is doing. Overall they are lean even for a cruise condition. I am hoping to make them in the 13.8 to 14.7 range with the new needle. 14.3-14.5 being ideal for cruising.
First number is rpm, second is A/F
3000-14.7
3500-15.1
4000-15.3
4500-15.7
5000-15.7
5500-15.3

Last test I did was a 4 th gear pull from 3000 to 7000 rpm with the throttle W.F.O. This is to get an idea what the main jet looks like. After seeing the lean cruise condition I was surprised to see the wide open wasn’t far off from what I want.
3000-7000 Sweep 13.3

In summary: I saw pretty much what I expected and what many complain about. The idle is WAY lean and the cruise is on the lean side. I rode the bike around for a while and the numbers were pretty consistent. I have in my hand a ProCycle jet kit that I now need to install and do it all over. Someone asked me to remove the air box side cover and I will do that after I re-jet the bike to see if it changes the numbers any. Hope to do this sometime this week.

Wish me luck!
Thats a pretty neat set up for checking jetting,I was wondering how it works out jetting the bike richer for the altitude a person lives at? Then riding the thing up to 8000,10,000 or 11,000 ft elevation like happens here in nor cal fairly often.
I wonder if maybe Suzuki has it jetted for a happy medium to work good everywhere? My stock DR runs clean at high altitude while a buddy's jetted and modified airbox KLR gets a little sick and puffs out black smoke.
Ive also found opening the airbox up a bunch lets the airfilter get way dirtier way quicker,then it doesnt flow so good.
Maybe just a fluke.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:09 AM   #58294
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gas/air

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle;17591869
[FONT=Times New Roman
First number is rpm, second is A/F[/FONT]
3000-14.7
3500-15.1
4000-15.3
4500-15.7
5000-15.7
5500-15.3
Way cool! Thanks. Watching.
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poppawheelie screwed with this post 12-26-2011 at 08:15 AM Reason: icon
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:28 AM   #58295
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Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayrel View Post
Lots of low end torque and much quicker with the DG/jetting, although I'm not sure it was worth the over $300 price tag.
you can get away with only the airbox hole & jet kit for much less & similar performance.
but who am i to talk, had 400 in the FCR-MX setup.
now i'm back to a DJ'd BST40 & working well.
cheers
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:33 AM   #58296
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
I've got a Warp 9 - 17" 4x25 rear I want to put a tkc 80 on. Can I go 140/80-17 on her or go 150/70-17?
She has a 150/70-17 on her currently with no issue.

The 140/80 is designed for a 2.5" - 3" wide rim. The 150/70 is designed for a 4.25" wide rim.

The TKC 150 is a bit wider at the knobs than most 150 width street tires. Clearance is going to be tight but it will fit. You may have to adjust the rim offset depending on how accurately Warp9 dialed in that rear rim.

You are going to love the 'Adventure Wheel' setup. It won't feel quite as 'on rails' as a full supermoto setup but will feel much more planted on the pavement than with the stock wheel sizes. The bike will still work very well on gravel and dirt.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:52 AM   #58297
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
figure out how to remove the ball from the base of the suction-cup mount on the unit itself w/o breaking something.
What am I missing? The ball is in there pretty tight. If I just try to pull it out I'm pretty sure I'm going to crack the back of the GPS itself ...
You don't mess with the car mount, just buy the other accessories:







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Old 12-26-2011, 09:25 AM   #58298
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 965
Thumb Round headlight source

Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
This 7" round replacement headlight for an RD350 will fit without too much messing around. Cheap, too. And could easily be adapted for HID. I believe it was FloridaSteve who first posted it:

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yama...ting%5D=custom



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This company has 7" lights in several colors
http://www.flyncycle.com/Motorcycle_...et_p/hlu7r.htm
AND they have 8" round which is what I want.
They only have chrome shells in 8" but I have paint cans....
How good the reflector and lens are I have no idea
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:16 AM   #58299
ThomasVolomitz
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This may sound crazy, but I tried the ram mount system and it worked well on the handlebars of my DR650. Well I have three other bikes and was taking off on the Tiger. Instead of getting a new ram mount, I cable tied the little mount that came with the 70 dollar Garmin to the accessory bar. 3000+ miles later and it still is holding solid. I am a big supporter of DIY projects. In this case I just happened to try it and it worked beyond my expectations.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:41 AM   #58300
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
So that seat would be good for standing on the bike and the occasional laydown on the trail? Looks just a skosh wide.
No, a seat like that would be terrible off road, IMO. I'd never run it. My Corbin is fine for me ... but even the Corbin is a bit uncomfortable standing.

Those GS/GoldWing type seats are not for the DR, IMHO ... unless you just commute or do only very long road rides and never go off road.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:23 PM   #58301
B1
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Location: Arse-trailer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
http://www.gpscity.com/rammounts


I want a proper GPS (tracks & routes), but the Montana 650 costs too much, and the Garmin 60/62 screens are too small for me to read without putting on reading glasses, so until Montana prices come down, I'll keep using the Nuvi.
which nuvi is that? my budget didnt allow for a decent gps so went for the garmin nuvi 1490t. the five inch screen is really easy to read, and its the cheapest model which allows programming of routes. works quite well offroad with the garmin topo maps. it ain't no zumo but for around $160 to $200 on ebay i'm not complaining.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:56 PM   #58302
JustMikey
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Location: Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
Whatever it is, I like the round headlight.
Originally it was a DR650rse, Rally Sport Electricstart. Big tank and more output on the alternator and windprotection. Here's a pic of the original bike.



And it's current state.



As you can see it evolved, or de-volved a bit
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:50 PM   #58303
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Location: Cottage Grove, the ragged edge of suburbia, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
And the advantage to Sumo-ing a DR650?

If you actually plan to go Super Moto racing ... then great. Makes sense. If you have lots and lots of perfectly smooth, tight mountain corners in Minnesota ... and you think you are fast .... well then, once again go that way.

.
Well, I already have a set of 17" wheels for my wrr that I would likely relace to dr hubs. If I can just sell the wheels I may just do that and then do a 19" front. The 17s on the wrr, to me, just showcased the lack of power the 250 has on the street, but I like the lightweight and ergonomics of a dualsport, that's why I'm looking at the dr650 as a simple, easy to work on street bike. I'll keep the wrr too, it's a nice bike, but it's high-tech, high revving vs. low-tech and torquey on the dr.

No one ever did really answer my original question about changes and/or years to avoid?!? I guess they're all pretty much the same after '96?



Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
I moved from Minneapolis, MN to San Jose, CA in 1982. I moved because in MN, there are only four corners in the entire state that aren't perpendicular intersections, and there are *no* mountains. Plus, there are only two seasons: Winter, and road construction. And mosquitos - lots of 'em weigh as much as a small bird.

Lex
I know MN roads in general can't hold a candle to the mountain and coastal roads out west, but if you stay near the major river valleys or explore the driftless region in the southeast part of the state, MN has some roads worthy of riding.
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:52 PM   #58304
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96 up basically same.

I just sold my 17" front and mounted a 19" again, its perfect for me.
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:34 PM   #58305
B1
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Location: Arse-trailer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
96 up basically same.
apart from some major redesign of decals and different colours.

the dr650 wiki reckons the very rare third gear probs were fixed with a different cog after 2006. also got info about the starter clutch torque limiter on 98 and some 99 models. dont know how reliable the info is...
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