the DR650 thread

[smilin jack]

Originally Posted by asrvivor

There's no gasket in there, just a sealant. Mines been like that for many thousands of miles. I don't mind workin' on the bike, but I do mind working on the engine.
"If it's not broke, screw with it until it is." Nope, I'm stayin' outta there.

Same with mine. I got a real good look at it recently, and there is minimal leakage. But it looks weird to have that wet spot there with all the dust sticking to it. Been that way for about 15000 miles[/QUOTE]


Yes, that seems to be seeping some oil from that cover over the head. It takes removing 12 bolts to get that off (also the valve adjustment covers) to fix the leak. Had mine off last month to check the timing chain and sprocket. The valve adjustment covers have a D shaped O-ring (got mine from ProCycle).

The Cylinder Head cover requires Suzuki Bond (grey gooey stuff that dries over night), and has a special sequence to remove and replace those 12 small bolts. I remember the torque value at 7.5 ft/lbs, but check the service manual to be sure. Here's a photo from another inmate, of where the cover sits on top the engine. It was an easy fix, but took some playing to get the old gasket stuff off without scratching the aluminum or getting dirt into the engine. I used finger nail and an old credit card as scrapers. Had to borrow a small 3/8 drive torque wrench from fbritt5 and his tube of gooey.

Dave

[996DL]

Great post smilin jack, but just a cautionary note to inmates considering this reseal, with such a low torque figure, use a 1/4" drive / inch pounds torque wrench. The average 3/8" drive torque wrench is usually rated for a max of about 75 ft/lbs and would be inaccurate and provide much too much leverage, for dealing with anywhere near 7.5 ft/lbs figures...

996DL

[asrvivor]

So after the install of the FMF and TM40. I got her running OK today, still idle probs. Why would the exhaust get so hot it's bright orange? To much fuel at idle? This is not a normal orange, It's really really hot. Any ideas?

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Mongle

I got my procycle kit installed tonight- should have some more Air/Fuel info for you guys tomorrow (if the weather holds out).

I found why the bike was so lean (16.1 : 1) at idle....the damn pilot screw had never been backed out from the factory! The brass plug was still in it so I know no one messed with it (and I am the first owner). I thought maybe it was just stuck a little so I backed it out a turn then turned it back one and it stopped! Must have been put together on a friday afternoon. I know I had to screw the idle way up when I bought it just to keep it idling..now I know why. Heck, thing was probably running on the transfer slot.

That seems to be the typical factory setting - mixture screw bottomed out and idle adjustment turned way up so it will run.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Mongle

I got my procycle kit installed tonight- should have some more Air/Fuel info for you guys tomorrow (if the weather holds out).

I found why the bike was so lean (16.1 : 1) at idle....the damn pilot screw had never been backed out from the factory! The brass plug was still in it so I know no one messed with it (and I am the first owner). I thought maybe it was just stuck a little so I backed it out a turn then turned it back one and it stopped! Must have been put together on a friday afternoon. I know I had to screw the idle way up when I bought it just to keep it idling..now I know why. Heck, thing was probably running on the transfer slot.

I installed the Procycle jet kit last weekend and I discovered the same thing!

After pulling the brass plug I had my pen ready to write down exactly how many turns out the factory pilot screw was set at, only when I tried to screw it in (gently) it wouldn't move. So I thought the same thing, that I would back it out 1/2 turn and then try again. Same result you had, mine came from the factory with the screw bottomed out.

I set the carb up exactly as the Procycle instructions call for (open top of airbox and GSXR muffler) and started it up. Runs great and sounds much better, although I will have to wait a few months (!) for the snow to go away before I can ride it and do the fine tuning.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by asrvivor

So after the install of the FMF and TM40. I got her running OK today, still idle probs. Why would the exhaust get so hot it's bright orange? To much fuel at idle? This is not a normal orange, It's really really hot. Any ideas?

You're most likely too lean. Is the pipe glowing after a ride, or just sitting there in the driveway? Just sitting: idle fuel screw. After riding: lean on the needle.
Also glad to hear the XT got fixed properly, kudos to the dealer.

[Aerocycle]

So I installed my symtecs today, took quite a while because it seems like nothing would work out just right for me or I just didn't have the right tool.

First off I want to say, I really like the progrip 714's; they are really nice, and I think if I will ever need another set of grips it's gonna be progrips again. The only thing I had to do to them was cut the "end cap" off the end of it to open it up, no problems.

As for the Symtec heated grips, I had a little trouble with them, and I'm disappointed in the switch it comes with. I pre-ordered a throttle sleeve off of flea-bay knowing that the stock grip is vulcanized to it's sleeve. So that saved me a lot of time and hassle.

On the clutch side I wrapped one layer of double sided fiberglass tape, then put one layer of Mylar wrapped around that to help insulate the heater from the steel bar. Next slapped the heating element on, and used a general cementing compound made by Dap to secure the grips. It all went together fine, I am a little concerned about the adhesive i used, I am hoping id dries well (30 degrees F out there), and hope it stays solid. I didn't have anything better around the house and wasn't going to drive into town to get something else.

here's the Mylar wrap, supposed to be a great insulator.


Throttle side went together fine, the new throttle tube was closed on the end, so I cut that out, and put everything together fine using the same adhesive. I finished up the wiring which was easy, and couldn't find a good spot to put the switch. It really pisses me off I can't come up with much. Someday if I get the tools and material I can make a dash. I ended up securing a little aluminum plate under the handlebar mount bolts, and put the switch on that. It works, just kinda sucks there's not a better place to put it.

It takes some time for the grips to heat up, and they get nice and warm, I haven't ridden in the cold with them yet, but I expect they will help, but not keep my hands toasty. I would probably need to get heated glove liners for winter riding. Whats nice about these for me is they will be handy for those chilly summer mornings that feel great but freeze your hands off.

I will post my opinion of the heaters after i use them for a while, for now i'm not sure i'm sold on these symtecs, but time will tell....

[asrvivor]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

You're most likely too lean. Is the pipe glowing after a ride, or just sitting there in the driveway? Just sitting: idle fuel screw. After riding: lean on the needle.
Also glad to hear the XT got fixed properly, kudos to the dealer.

Yep outstanding about the XT! Thanks

Ya I was just warming it up for a ride, let her sit idleing for about 15 min and it was glowing white orange hot. Scared me a little so took the GSA for a spin. I'll have a look at that screw in the morning. It has been popping while idleing, so I figured something was up with that screw. Thanks Again

[Tyrepower]

G'day Guys, a ways back in this thread some place a fellow inmate (Who lives in Perth) posted how he used a relay and a couple of diodes to isolate his headlight when starting his bike. Also posted a hand drawn diagram of how he had gone about doing the job. Well I am now in the position to do the same to my ride and can't seem to find the post. Can anyone steer me in the right direction as to where this post is.
Cheers Richo

[greer]

Edit: Whoops, I see I'm a little late.


If you haven't done the install yet, check out the neat tips here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737648

I've just become a firm believer in the silicone tape.

Sarah

Originally Posted by Aerocycle

I'm think I might try wrapping mylar around the clutch handlebar to help keep it warmer in stead of heatshrink. Mylar is a good insulator...just how to do it is the question.

[shootis]

Originally Posted by Tyrepower

G'day Guys, a ways back in this thread some place a fellow inmate (Who lives in Perth) posted how he used a relay and a couple of diodes to isolate his headlight when starting his bike. Also posted a hand drawn diagram of how he had gone about doing the job. Well I am now in the position to do the same to my ride and can't seem to find the post. Can anyone steer me in the right direction as to where this post is.
Cheers Richo

Tyrepower, Here you go: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...switching+idea

[epix1718]

Originally Posted by greer

Edit: Whoops, I see I'm a little late.


If you haven't done the install yet, check out the neat tips here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737648

I've just become a firm believer in the silicone tape.

Sarah

Agreed, I saw they are using rescue tape but if you want to save a few bucks order from Amazon, you can get the Rescue tape for less than $10 shipped (if you have Amazon prime, or do a $25+ total order), they also carry the F4 Silicone for $14 shipped that includes 36' of tape (as compared to Rescue Tapes 12')

[greer]

I'd never heard of rescue tape, but I found "Silicone Fusion Tape" at a hardware/farm supply store for just a few dollars.

Sarah

[Tyrepower]

Originally Posted by shootis

Tyrepower, Here you go: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...switching+idea

Fantastic Shootis, thats the one I was looking for. I knew some one would come good.
Cheers Richo.

[The Rizz]

I have the 97 purple frame DR. I'm considering trying to change the frame color by using the stick-on vinyl carbon sheets. Has anyone tried this? I'm wondering if it's flexible enough to wrap around the frame and if it will just look cheesy. I've never worked with this stuff before. Thoughts?