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Old 01-04-2012, 11:00 PM   #58681
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggsontoast View Post
Hi chaps,

Not trying to hijack this excellent thread but can anyone help me source the speedo gear drive unit as the leading drive gear (nylon) has been worn down by the secondary worm gear (metal), this has severely grooved the aforementioned nylon gear. If by a string of luck anyone has said unit or just the nylon gear itself then please get in touch, in need ASAP.

Please contact me through the forum's PM function.

Regards,

PAT
Damn! I just so happen to have a spare speedometer laying around, it's got low mileage on it, but unfortunately I don't have the drive gear. Sorry man wish I could help. If you needed a speedometer let me know.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:02 AM   #58682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
Wouldn't it be nice if you KNEW the expensive battery wouldn't let you down and would not damage your bike when it failed. Look HERE in a thread called "Shorai battery goes Tango Uniform".
I would still take the chance on this type of battery. As in all things, you can get a lemon. If you get heaps of bung ones then there is a problem.
If you take every bad report you read as an indicator that something is a dud, who would buy a DR650 after reading about NSU and gearbox failures. By all reports this 1996 technology challenged motor should be consigned to the scrap heap. However we all know this is just malicious spin put out by KTM and BMW to try and woo back some of their lost market from the venerable DR brigade.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:45 AM   #58683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
I would still take the chance on this type of battery. As in all things, you can get a lemon. If you get heaps of bung ones then there is a problem.
If you take every bad report you read as an indicator that something is a dud, who would buy a DR650 after reading about NSU and gearbox failures. By all reports this 1996 technology challenged motor should be consigned to the scrap heap. However we all know this is just malicious spin put out by KTM and BMW to try and woo back some of their lost market from the venerable DR brigade.
Since they are smaller and way lighter than the stock battery, and don't self-discharge much, you could carry a spare Li-Fe battery in a pannier and still be a fair bit lighter than the stock battery. This would be much better security than standard batteries can offer if you're out the back of nowhere on your own.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:13 AM   #58684
sect8dr
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tire sizes

I am setting up my 05 for some highway travel come spring and i am looking at putting Anakee tires on it, can i use the 140 tire with the stock rim or is 130 the biggest i can fit?
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:20 AM   #58685
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
You mentioned the main air corrector; do you know if this diameter is changed as an aspect of “ultimate” carb tuning? (For racing applications, of course - not for the pedestrian DR.)
The mixture can sometimes go rich after the horsepower peak, which then causes the horsepower to fall off more rapidly on the overrun than it would if the mixture were correct. If this is the case, installing a larger main air jet can be used to correct. When the larger main air jet is installed, all of WOT will become leaner, but the overrun will be affected more strongly. The overall change in WOT mixture would be compensated for with a larger main jet, so there is often some massaging involved with consecutive main air correction and main jet changes until the CO trace is flat. When this is all done, there will usually not only be gains on the overrun, but also everywhere else. This is because a slight bit more air is going into the engine and because the fuel is being emulsified more.

It is possible to overdo it. If you go to far, the mixture can go lean on the overrun. Sometimes an engine will run that way straight away. I always hate it when that happens, because the reverse of all of the good things mentioned above happens when a smaller main air jet must be installed in order to correct.
Quote:
You did not mention the pilot air corrector – just wondering why, since you mentioned the main air corrector.
Air correction only works when you have an emulsion tube of some kind. There are carbs where the pilot air bleeds in through holes in the side of the pilot jet (the pilot jet is then effectively an emulsion tube). The BST40 is not one of those. Changing the air bleed size without an emulsion tube generally causes the mixture to change uniformly for an entire throttle position, but may provide a smaller increment change than with the fuel jet alone. Not changing the slope of the delivery is of course of no help, and more granularity is of no help either, as one fuel jet size usually yields about a 1 percentage point change in CO (plenty when considering that a 3-5% CO is about right at most combinations of throttle position and RPM).
Quote:
Just to make sure we’re talking about the same things, I’ve only heard of these parts called “main air correction jet” and “pilot air correction jet.” These are air inlet holes on the intake bell of a carburetor.
We are talking about the same thing.
Quote:
I have never read of anyone advising altering these, however I also have very little experience in carb tuning relative to you, and no experience with racing application.
Without the ability to test at steady state and 4- or 5-gas analysis I wouldn't advise it either.
Quote:
I've also not heard of anyone changing the emulsion tube diameter, either - just so you know how very little I have heard!
Often when the airbox is opened up and the main jet is then installed that produces the best upper mid to horsepower peak mixture at WOT, the low to lower mid range becomes too rich at all openings. As mentioned before, methods to fix this are float height, needle base diameter and emulsion tube outlet size. Sometimes there is no needle available with a larger base diameter. Unless it's minor, float height doesn't usually have enough range to solve the problem (at least not by itself). There are a limited number of emulsion tube sizes available for the BST40 carb, and in cases where I needed something outside that range, I have been known to sleeve them.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 01-05-2012 at 09:56 AM
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:35 AM   #58686
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurtDevil View Post
My brother's had a similar experience with his DR650, but the mechanic hasn't been able to pinpoint the cause. Frustrating!! Any insight here would be awesome, thanks everyone.
What RPM are we talking about? If it's very low, it might be the auto decompressor built into the starter system.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:50 AM   #58687
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sect8dr View Post
I am setting up my 05 for some highway travel come spring and i am looking at putting Anakee tires on it, can i use the 140 tire with the stock rim or is 130 the biggest i can fit?
it will fit with in the swingarm but since 120 is stock 130 is better considering the rim size.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:04 AM   #58688
DurtDevil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What RPM are we talking about? If it's very low, it might be the auto decompressor built into the starter system.
The noise occurs at low rpm, at or just above idle... So this might be a match. How would we be able to confirm and fix, or is this a replacement part scenario?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:33 AM   #58689
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurtDevil View Post
The noise occurs at low rpm, at or just above idle... So this might be a match. How would we be able to confirm and fix, or is this a replacement part scenario?
DR650 have a slightly higher recommended idle RPM because of this feature. Bump up your idle a bit and see what happens. I don't have a manual avail but someone might give the correct RPM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:44 AM   #58690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty rocket View Post
dr650 have a slightly higher recommended idle rpm because of this feature. Bump up your idle a bit and see what happens. I don't have a manual avail but someone might give the correct rpm.
1500 rpm
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:49 AM   #58691
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
1500 rpm

I should have known who would get there first.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:53 AM   #58692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I should have know who would get there first.

It's just one of those weird things I remember.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:43 AM   #58693
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Cool2

Hiding in plain sight, on the starter.

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Old 01-05-2012, 11:51 AM   #58694
Fabone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
aren't the spring rates #s high w/ racetech than with all the other mfg?

eibach shows ALOT lower rates so who is correct???
and can you even compare eibach to racetech because the #s are SOOOO different?
http://performance-suspension.eibach...cation_look_up
but eibach does not have a weight lookup chart.
so who knows what eibach rates to use?

i have too high (not enough sag for my weight - 175lbs) of an eibach spring (.50) and will be selling it this spring and buying the correct spring.

trying to find my correct rate and what the .50 is rated at. i'm thinking 250lbs plus. who needs a big boy fork spring?

then there is the progressive option plus sonic springs rates?
http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/...28df1bce218b28

jeff???

jesse carries eibach's (i'm guessing i need to call him) and i'm not sure who makes procycle's straight rate springs (sonic or eibach).

my rear is perfect w/ a cogent redone rear shock and correct spring.

bueller?

In my search I found there is no exact rate standard and every spring outfit is different. They may be close, but not exact. They'll also use other factors in their ratings that come into play...like your weight, loaded bike, riding style & etc, etc. You no doubt already know that!

I weight less than you and Jesse recommended .47's. I ran them with the Intiminators and it was too harsh and went back to the stock springs. Running them with RT emulators may be a different story, I don't know?

Most people do not like progressive springs, but I've found the aftermarket one's to work really well. My riding style is set up more on the touring side and I like plush. YMMV.

If you want to try a set of .47's, let me know......and good luck in your search.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:13 PM   #58695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
DR650 have a slightly higher recommended idle RPM because of this feature. Bump up your idle a bit and see what happens. I don't have a manual avail but someone might give the correct RPM.
Great, thank you both!
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