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Old 01-05-2012, 11:48 PM   #58681
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
When I got the Intiminators, I had already purchased Emulators & .45 Eibach springs. I installed the Intiminators with the stock springs and it felt great. I sold the Emulators but held on to the .45kg springs in case I wanted to firm things up.

I've used the .45kg Eibachs with the Intiminators for the past year or so, and it's just a little too harsh for me except for track days. For street or off-road use, I prefer the stock progressive springs, Intiminators, and the stock preload spacers.

For reference, I weigh 185 naked, and yes, the stock rate is .40kg.
thanks,
rick from Cogent emailed me with a .45 eibach recomendation for 175lbs

still trying to figure out why race tech's # are sooo high and if a .45 rt is the same as a .45 eibach
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:51 PM   #58682
luckett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post

who elses use a .47, how much do you weigh, what are your valves and how does it work?
.47, 165lbs w/o gear, emulators (yellow springs/2.5 turns preload), 15W oil, 5.5" air gap, does well on small bumps, but blows thru the travel on bigger hits
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:32 AM   #58683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post

i've emailed jesee and rick @ cogent for input.
If you don't mind, please share your info/what you learn from Jesse and Rick when you get it.

Edit: Doh! You kinda already did! My bad!
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:14 AM   #58684
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2
Actually, I was after the shift shaft seal (#26) not the shift shaft itself. But, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:19 AM   #58685
sagedrifter
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Originally Posted by shasta650 View Post
Thinking about checking my clutch for wear "06",10,0000 miles, 80% offrd.( I know it's all in the wrists) Anyone wear one out and at what mileage?

Probably not, at 16,000 miles my clutch shows very little wear and I carry heavy loads and do a good bit of foresty roads and trails. Lots of traffic and slow ridng on tight roads where first gear is not low enough...

The clutch on my bike has not needed any farkles....
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:40 AM   #58686
Rusty Rocket
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I weigh in at 185-190 and I have Emulators w/ .46 springs. Pretty sure I use 10w oil
I took Rick at Cogent's suggestions when setting them up. I think 2 turns on the yellow spring, and I can't remember the oil height.

Forks are excellent IMO. (in comparison to where they started)
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:20 AM   #58687
UberKul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i have 13mm of preload. weigh 175 nude and have .50 eibachs in there.
...and it's frigin' harsh. the fork deflects of everything as the rate is too much.
it's become clear after i've optimized my Cogent rear shock finally.
Sounds to me like your valving is off not your spring rate? If you have the stock valving consider thinner oil. There might be some kind of fork alignment or stiction going on as well.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:12 AM   #58688
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
I'm not sure what to do with my suspension. It works fine as stock, even though I'm 245 lbs. I think I've only bottomed it once and do prob about 40 off road 60 on road. I do admit its soft, but it works, I guess It might have to do with I've never felt or ridden anything else. Not sure it's worth my money. Do you guys think it's best to call keintech?

I've read on here some guys think new springs were too hard. But that's changing to straight rate springs when the stockers are progressive.
If you're riding mild dirt roads and nothing too technical, all at a moderate pace, then you have no problem.

If conditions change and you UP the pace ... the bike won't handle very well. What happens with stock suspension (with your weight) is the bike rides too far down in the travel. This is not good. It becomes harsh in the last 40% of travel and will also bottom out. Rebound on the stock shock is fairly pitiful ... especially with a heavy rider on board. A heavier spring can be better but tends to overwhelm the already poor rebound damping.

What you will find if you re-do your suspension is that your bike will float nicely over rough ground, steer more accurately and track straighter.
The key thing is to balance Front and Rear suspension so they work in harmony and compliment each other.

But as mentioned ... if you only ride at a very moderate pace, then leave it alone.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 01-06-2012 at 10:47 AM
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:26 AM   #58689
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Anyone know if these DR350 rear wheels can work on a DR650? Local seller has 2 of them for sale (both this style) Pretty sure they are "dirt bike" style DR350 wheels, as they also had rim locks in place. Any clue if they'll work on the 96+ style DR650?
There are several references in this thread about DR350 wheels. Far as I know they bolt right up. It's an 18" rear, which some prefer. Not sure if ALL DR350's are minus Cush Drive. Remember, there were 3 different DR350 models. Basically one street legal, one off road.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:43 AM   #58690
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i have 13mm of preload. weigh 175 nude and have .50 eibachs in there.
this yields 1.5" of sag.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588
...and it's frigin' harsh. the fork deflects of everything as the rate is too much.
it's become clear after i've optimized my Cogent rear shock finally.

kinda confused jeff, as i thought you knew suspensions better than this.
fork travel is 10.2" and thus the 25% of sag that all other suspension tuners recommend says i should have 2.5" of sag? why are you saying 1.5" of sag is ok and if i add a stiffer spring/even lass sag (.55) that's ok too???

please enlighten me why you recommended staying with what i have or going stiffer because it ain't workin" for me? have you tested w/ intiminators as it sounds like your a race tech emulator guy.
are race techs numbers not equal to eibach (thus the confussion) or do you think 1.5" of sag is ideal?

i was hopping you'd have all the DR guru answers, but i'm confused as ever?

so question to other intiminator users, what spring rate are you using?
i'm thinking .46-.48 at this point.

stock is .40 correct???
Of course it's harsh ... your fork springs are too stiff for your weight. First thing to try is remove half or more of your pre-load spacer. Go test ride. Yes? No? Better? Worse? No Change? Fast better? Slow OK? Road vs. Off Road? Hard to make the DR work perfectly on both surfaces ... but you can come close.

I'm 200 lbs. and am running .47 kgs. Eibach springs from Jesse. Big improvement (over stock .40 kgs.) but I have fiddled with pre-load a lot to fine tune it. At slow speeds it's a bit firm ... but when the pace picks up things work pretty well. In the rough it's very good. Won't match my WR250F ... but what do you expect!

I don't look at Sag up front, I have about 1.5 inch as well, IIRC. I use 7 wt. fork oil and change it once every year or two. Stock fork springs are .40 kgs. ... and it's a progressive spring ... as opposed to the Eibach, which is straight rate.

What these forks really need is the full Race Tech treatment ... drilling a few holes in the cartridge and adding emulators and fine tuning pre load.

I had a 7.6 kgs. Eibach spring out back before I went to an Ohlins. The Ohlins is a different world. So easy to tune and more than enough rebound. Fantastic when bike is fully loaded.

On the DR650 you can't follow "normal" Race Tech recommended rates of Sag. The DR is weird and not like a dirt bike. It has a LOT of static sag out back (like 2.5 inches or so) ... and almost NO sag up front. I was told it has something to do with the shock linkage. Race Sag (you on the bike) is what matters. I have about 3 to 3.5 inches.

I urge everyone to read Paul Thede's (founder of Race Tech) essays on suspension. He wrote these essays years ago but still relevant today. Pay attention to what he says about the importance of riding "HIGH" in the travel and why that is best.
Good luck!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 01-06-2012 at 10:58 AM
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:14 AM   #58691
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3rd gear gone

I got the motor taken down to just the cases and got it out of the bike, i did not have a way of properly splitting the cases, from what i could read you really should use a case splitter, so i know i guy who has one and is good at the tranny stuff, he said he would do it for $120.00 if i bring him the cases and gears.

He split them open and 3rd drive and 3rd driven need to be replaced, as well as the shift fork, one gear is bad but says to replace both to be safe, other than the chunk of gear on the magnetic drain plug i found no metal in the motor neither did he, whew what a relief, also the neutral switch screws were not tight at all, will be putting them back with red lock tight.

So far here is the bill, gasket set/ seals $104.00, gears and tranny stuff $195.00 splitting cases $120.00 total bill $419.00, in retrospect i probably should have bought a used motor, what say ye guys.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:38 AM   #58692
Davis53
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Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
So far here is the bill, gasket set/ seals $104.00, gears and tranny stuff $195.00 splitting cases $120.00 total bill $419.00, in retrospect i probably should have bought a used motor, what say ye guys.
How do you know if a used motor has a good third gear? You got away cheap.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:54 AM   #58693
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
There are several references in this thread about DR350 wheels. Far as I know they bolt right up. It's an 18" rear, which some prefer. Not sure if ALL DR350's are minus Cush Drive. Remember, there were 3 different DR350 models. Basically one street legal, one off road.
Pretty sure the wheels will work, (same swingarm on all 350 models) but I personally wouldn't put one on my 650 that didn't have the cush drive.
You will have to purchase a DR650 brake rotor to use any DR350 wheel.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:06 PM   #58694
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
So far here is the bill, gasket set/ seals $104.00, gears and tranny stuff $195.00 splitting cases $120.00 total bill $419.00, in retrospect i probably should have bought a used motor, what say ye guys.
That is super cheap ... you really lucked out. Good luck with re-assembly.
Lot of work but worth it in the end, IMO.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:27 PM   #58695
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Actually, I was after the shift shaft seal (#26) not the shift shaft itself. But, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
I have no idea how I got #4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
.......He split them open and 3rd drive and 3rd driven need to be replaced, as well as the shift fork, one gear is bad but says to replace both to be safe, other than the chunk of gear on the magnetic drain plug i found no metal in the motor neither did he, whew what a relief, also the neutral switch screws were not tight at all,
will be putting them back with red lock tight.
There are better solutions than red Loctite:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Quote:
So far here is the bill, gasket set/ seals $104.00, gears and tranny stuff $195.00 splitting cases $120.00 total bill $419.00, in retrospect i probably should have bought a used motor, what say ye guys.
I agree that you got off cheap. Don't do hindsight shopping (cars, guns, appliances, wives), it will make you knutz.
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