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Old 01-10-2012, 09:13 AM   #58846
asrvivor
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Muffler wrap

So I have been riding with my new FMF powerbomb and see that it gets much hotter (or so it appears) than what I was used to with the stock muffler. It scares me a little but runs purrrrrrfect and have seen a nice low end power increase. Not to mention wheelie heaven! So I was thinking about wrapping the muffler, but don't know if this will increase engine heat or not. As it stands now the vapor shows temps nearing 310 degrees when idling and when really on an uphill push for extended periods. What are some thoughts here about the wrap? Any ideas? Has anyone done this before with the same exhaust? Thanks in advance John
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #58847
ThomasVolomitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
+1 on this. I had my Fuel Pack Jr. mounted in the same manner on my DR350SE (using the left passenger peg mounts). I fell on a particularly rocky trail in the Georgetown CO vicinity. I promptly holed my Fuel Pack and watched about a gallon of gas dribble out onto the rocks. Fortunately I didn't need it, to get where I was going. But, it would have sucked if I had to rely on the extra mileage the Fuel Pack capacity provided. Mount it on your rear rack, where it has a fighting chance of surviving a fall or go with a bigger main tank.

A bigger tank will probably be my next move too. I have done 3k miles with the Rotopax mounted there. May not be ideal but I have yet to puncture it. When I know we will be riding offroad I usually put it on the tailrack.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:01 AM   #58848
jon_l
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
A D606 130/17 is fine, good in sand.

But a true "Mullet" means a more street biased tire in the rear. Like a Pirelli Trail, Trail Wing, or other 50/50 type tire or road biased tire. This seems to be a popular combination when covering a wide range of terrain and have quite a bit of street riding in the mix. Rear knobbies wear out very quickly on the road. Fronts last very well. So the solution is a "Mullet", knobby front, street or 50/50 rear.

Front tire is the important one off road. You can brake and corner OK and handle most steep downhills and even some mud. The rear may slew around but just slow down. On the street watch the front on wet roads ... otherwise a pretty fair combo that lasts a long time. The TKC80 works good for me on the street on the DR650. Sticks better than you'd imagine it wlll ... but may break loose on wet road if you push it.
+1

The IRC-GP1 front that was on my DR when I bought it in August was not at all confidence-inspiring in sand. I have a new MT-21 front at home to mount when things warm up. I plan to keep the Mefo Explorer rear for now, and see how it does with a more aggressive front before I consider a change in the rear. I don't enjoy D606s on the road.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:21 AM   #58849
GRN
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My only experience with the 606's was on road, about 70 miles on an F8GS - a little slab, a lot of twisty secondary, and they about made me pee a time or two. The Pirelli's are actually quite confidence inspiring, and let you know when your at their lean/speed threshold progressively, and without drama.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:33 AM   #58850
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Shinko 700's are fine for mild trails too, I use them just like my past TKC-80's. They get the job done and are cheap, about $108 per set. When I'm traveling I like to do a reverse mullet, thats running a Shinko 705 on the rear for me. I like Anakees also, but I won't pay full price for them. I get an easy 6K from a 705 rear and around 4K with the 700.
I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I mean I don't even get 3.5K miles out of a Pilot Road on my Strom. Never come close to 3K on ANY 50/50 dual sport tire I've ever tried. Never got 1.5K out of any knobbie. Now I just picked up a DR and even if I can get twice the milage on it that I get out of a tire on my 690 or my 450 EXC that still won't even come anywhere close to what you're getting
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:28 PM   #58851
ben2go
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I mean I don't even get 3.5K miles out of a Pilot Road on my Strom. Never come close to 3K on ANY 50/50 dual sport tire I've ever tried. Never got 1.5K out of any knobbie. Now I just picked up a DR and even if I can get twice the milage on it that I get out of a tire on my 690 or my 450 EXC that still won't even come anywhere close to what you're getting
I'm running Shinko 005 Advance on my GS5 and I notice little wear at 3000 miles.My bike is a fat pig that is rode hard and put up wet.Shinko 005 Advance is a repop of the older pilot tires.The compound is between sport touring and sport riding.I get good lean.Even more if it wasn't for that pesky center stand.I don't think I have ever gotten under 6000 on a rear tire.I mostly average 8000 miles.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:54 PM   #58852
luckychucky
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Location: SE Missouri
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Urbanized my DR650

This is pic with my latest urban accessories. Yesterday first day to really own and ride my DR650, battery was dead. Battery was an 08 with 900 miles. Guess it served it's purpose to previous owner. Must have sat too long at the dealer. Proper burial, new AGM blemished battery installed from Ellis Battery 50.00. New windshield from Harley Sportster, new mirrors, taken from XL500R, seat cover from Walmart, and various stickers.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:04 PM   #58853
neepuk
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You are kidding with that windshield, right?
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:04 PM   #58854
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Quick throttle tube

I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:27 PM   #58855
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I mean I don't even get 3.5K miles out of a Pilot Road on my Strom. Never come close to 3K on ANY 50/50 dual sport tire I've ever tried. Never got 1.5K out of any knobbie. Now I just picked up a DR and even if I can get twice the milage on it that I get out of a tire on my 690 or my 450 EXC that still won't even come anywhere close to what you're getting

Among my friends who get terrible tread wear, they all use too much air pressure.

I stay around 22/25 psi in my tires. If I put 32 psi in the rear, I wouldn't make 3,000 on any tire. Been there, done that. If I run higher pressures up front the tire looks like a saw blade. Fully loaded, 24 psi works well in the front.

Too little or too much psi has a great impact on tread life. I hate changing tires, so I do run a 705 on the rear most of the time. Most of my friends run 36 psi on pavement and real low pressures off road.... They don't get good tread life either.

On my 07 FJR1300 I could wear out a Pilot Road in 4K if its all tight curves. The edges go quicker up in western NC. I just run them smooth some where between 5,500 to 5,800 front and rear. My buddy rides slower and never sees more than 4,200 on the same tire. Its all about being smooth and the amount of engine braking you use. Switch backs and rough roads like 80 in NC near Marion will kill a rear tire quick.

If your having fun, just burn them up. The only time a care about tire life is when I tour. I like to know how far I can go loaded up with camping gear. If I go out west to Utah or some thing like that, I run a 705 on the rear and some thing more aggressive out front. I can get 7K out there in the wide open spaces. Thats enough to get me home on one set of tires. The roads out west give better tread life, they must be rougher here in the SE. Or maybe its the tighter curves. I don't complain about curves....
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #58856
ThomasVolomitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
+1 on this. I had my Fuel Pack Jr. mounted in the same manner on my DR350SE (using the left passenger peg mounts). I fell on a particularly rocky trail in the Georgetown CO vicinity. I promptly holed my Fuel Pack and watched about a gallon of gas dribble out onto the rocks. Fortunately I didn't need it, to get where I was going. But, it would have sucked if I had to rely on the extra mileage the Fuel Pack capacity provided. Mount it on your rear rack, where it has a fighting chance of surviving a fall or go with a bigger main tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
You are kidding with that windshield, right?

That windshield looks handy for road riding.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:55 PM   #58857
neepuk
Such a drag...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
That windshield looks handy for road riding.
To each their own I guess but that thing looks like a throat cutting device waiting to happen IMO... Just too close to the rider's face.

You're going to have to ride through a puddle/pot-hole full of water of undetermined depth at some point even on many road rides... You're going to end up in a situation where the best course of action is going to be UP ON THE PEGS. At times the front end may even come up a little more abruptly than you'd thought it would... What I'm getting at it the fact that a windshield that close to the face could take an everyday, no big deal bump in the road surprise, and turn it in to a hard smack in the chin or neck that knock the rider right off the back or out cold. IMO a windshield on a DR should be out in front of the number plate or not there at all.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:06 PM   #58858
luckychucky
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Windshield

Your right on all accounts. I only get to die once. I hope it cuts my head clean off Seriously, most of my riding is within city limits. It's is a little awkward, but I can deal with it until the end. But, I do agree with you on all of your points. If I didn't have to change all the cables, I'd already have ape hangers right behind the windshield. I feel like the DR stock kinda rides like a mild cafe racer. I wear a full face helmet, maybe it will save me from some of the windshield damage. Hopefully. Very good points.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:10 PM   #58859
neepuk
Such a drag...
 
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Thumb

Stay Lucky Chucky...
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:19 PM   #58860
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
So I have been riding with my new FMF powerbomb and see that it gets much hotter (or so it appears) than what I was used to with the stock muffler. It scares me a little but runs purrrrrrfect and have seen a nice low end power increase. Not to mention wheelie heaven! So I was thinking about wrapping the muffler, but don't know if this will increase engine heat or not. As it stands now the vapor shows temps nearing 310 degrees when idling and when really on an uphill push for extended periods. What are some thoughts here about the wrap? Any ideas? Has anyone done this before with the same exhaust? Thanks in advance John
Did you replace the muffler, the header, or both?

If you've increased the flow, you now may be running leaner than you'd want. Running lean makes things hotter. If this is the case, tune your carb before messing with wrap.

Does the new header have a heatshield like the stock header?
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