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Old 01-10-2012, 03:04 PM   #58846
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Quick throttle tube

I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:27 PM   #58847
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I mean I don't even get 3.5K miles out of a Pilot Road on my Strom. Never come close to 3K on ANY 50/50 dual sport tire I've ever tried. Never got 1.5K out of any knobbie. Now I just picked up a DR and even if I can get twice the milage on it that I get out of a tire on my 690 or my 450 EXC that still won't even come anywhere close to what you're getting

Among my friends who get terrible tread wear, they all use too much air pressure.

I stay around 22/25 psi in my tires. If I put 32 psi in the rear, I wouldn't make 3,000 on any tire. Been there, done that. If I run higher pressures up front the tire looks like a saw blade. Fully loaded, 24 psi works well in the front.

Too little or too much psi has a great impact on tread life. I hate changing tires, so I do run a 705 on the rear most of the time. Most of my friends run 36 psi on pavement and real low pressures off road.... They don't get good tread life either.

On my 07 FJR1300 I could wear out a Pilot Road in 4K if its all tight curves. The edges go quicker up in western NC. I just run them smooth some where between 5,500 to 5,800 front and rear. My buddy rides slower and never sees more than 4,200 on the same tire. Its all about being smooth and the amount of engine braking you use. Switch backs and rough roads like 80 in NC near Marion will kill a rear tire quick.

If your having fun, just burn them up. The only time a care about tire life is when I tour. I like to know how far I can go loaded up with camping gear. If I go out west to Utah or some thing like that, I run a 705 on the rear and some thing more aggressive out front. I can get 7K out there in the wide open spaces. Thats enough to get me home on one set of tires. The roads out west give better tread life, they must be rougher here in the SE. Or maybe its the tighter curves. I don't complain about curves....
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:33 PM   #58848
ThomasVolomitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
+1 on this. I had my Fuel Pack Jr. mounted in the same manner on my DR350SE (using the left passenger peg mounts). I fell on a particularly rocky trail in the Georgetown CO vicinity. I promptly holed my Fuel Pack and watched about a gallon of gas dribble out onto the rocks. Fortunately I didn't need it, to get where I was going. But, it would have sucked if I had to rely on the extra mileage the Fuel Pack capacity provided. Mount it on your rear rack, where it has a fighting chance of surviving a fall or go with a bigger main tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
You are kidding with that windshield, right?

That windshield looks handy for road riding.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:55 PM   #58849
neepuk
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Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
That windshield looks handy for road riding.
To each their own I guess but that thing looks like a throat cutting device waiting to happen IMO... Just too close to the rider's face.

You're going to have to ride through a puddle/pot-hole full of water of undetermined depth at some point even on many road rides... You're going to end up in a situation where the best course of action is going to be UP ON THE PEGS. At times the front end may even come up a little more abruptly than you'd thought it would... What I'm getting at it the fact that a windshield that close to the face could take an everyday, no big deal bump in the road surprise, and turn it in to a hard smack in the chin or neck that knock the rider right off the back or out cold. IMO a windshield on a DR should be out in front of the number plate or not there at all.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:06 PM   #58850
luckychucky
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Windshield

Your right on all accounts. I only get to die once. I hope it cuts my head clean off Seriously, most of my riding is within city limits. It's is a little awkward, but I can deal with it until the end. But, I do agree with you on all of your points. If I didn't have to change all the cables, I'd already have ape hangers right behind the windshield. I feel like the DR stock kinda rides like a mild cafe racer. I wear a full face helmet, maybe it will save me from some of the windshield damage. Hopefully. Very good points.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:10 PM   #58851
neepuk
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Thumb

Stay Lucky Chucky...
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:19 PM   #58852
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
So I have been riding with my new FMF powerbomb and see that it gets much hotter (or so it appears) than what I was used to with the stock muffler. It scares me a little but runs purrrrrrfect and have seen a nice low end power increase. Not to mention wheelie heaven! So I was thinking about wrapping the muffler, but don't know if this will increase engine heat or not. As it stands now the vapor shows temps nearing 310 degrees when idling and when really on an uphill push for extended periods. What are some thoughts here about the wrap? Any ideas? Has anyone done this before with the same exhaust? Thanks in advance John
Did you replace the muffler, the header, or both?

If you've increased the flow, you now may be running leaner than you'd want. Running lean makes things hotter. If this is the case, tune your carb before messing with wrap.

Does the new header have a heatshield like the stock header?
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:34 PM   #58853
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dravintoad View Post
After doing a little research trying to find a Rotopax mounting options, I came across this and really like the way this has been mounted. Has anyone else done this? and/or Had any problems with this set-up? (passenger peg removed and rotopax mounted in its place)
I'd MUCH prefer an IMS or Safari tank to that. My IMS gets me around 250 miles/tank, and it doesn't get damaged WHEN I dump the DR. I can still haul a passenger with tank panniers and rear panniers on too. Filled with just 3.5gal, it's lighter than stock, and it's small enough that I don't notice having a bigger tank between my legs in the dirt.

The only real complaint I have about the IMS is trying to find a locking cap that vents well.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:35 PM   #58854
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
i believe your right. gotta whittle a bit i suppose. i have one as well, but havent used it yet.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:01 PM   #58855
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
To each their own I guess but that thing looks like a throat cutting device waiting to happen IMO... Just too close to the rider's face.

You're going to have to ride through a puddle/pot-hole full of water of undetermined depth at some point even on many road rides... You're going to end up in a situation where the best course of action is going to be UP ON THE PEGS. At times the front end may even come up a little more abruptly than you'd thought it would... What I'm getting at it the fact that a windshield that close to the face could take an everyday, no big deal bump in the road surprise, and turn it in to a hard smack in the chin or neck that knock the rider right off the back or out cold. IMO a windshield on a DR should be out in front of the number plate or not there at all.
You can always take a wind shield off and stash it if the going gets rough or steep.

No big deal. I even use hard bags...
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:11 PM   #58856
Aerocycle
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Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:25 PM   #58857
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
Yes. My question to you: is the one hole (arrow) ovaled on your Yamaha throttle tube? I didn't like the way the cable end fit in that hole and that's how I received it.



Thinking the plastic would be rubbery, lilke a fender, I intended to work the chisel in from the top first and then snip off the piece from the right. But, the plastic is really hard, and after a couple of taps with a mallet (from the top), the piece snapped off like glass. I'm lucky it broke about where I wanted. Point is, don't use a chisel. obtw: I put the tube back on the handlebar before using the chisel, I didn't want to break the tube itself.



fwiw: Note how much closer the cable ends are to the o.d. of the tube. That surface is what the throttle stops rest against (open, closed). If forced (hard bump or landing), the throttle might over rotate. I think it was Bkoz that mentioned it some time ago because it happened to him. His theory was discounted as unlikely, but I think it's possible. Since there is a push and pull cable, I'm thinking that untwisting the over-run stop, will be simple. If it happens, you'll know what's going on.

The Yamaha tube is on the left, stock on the right.



I really like the result of a quicker throttle. I don't have to drop my elbow for full throttle. This makes me faster out of every turn (safely, dammit), it gets me to WFO easily and without the rolling my hand forward on the grip frequently. This may only make me 5% faster, but it's effortless, no thinking about it. And my buddies won't have to wait as long. If I have to explain it, you wouldn't understand. Not you JagLite, you obviously get it.

And: the two screws holding the throttle tube are different lengths, the long one goes on top. I recommend stainles allen head replacements. They're 5 x .08 mm thread, one is 25mm and the other is 20mm long.

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-11-2012 at 11:31 AM
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:36 PM   #58858
HiJincs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
There's 3 bearings in the rear. Check you sprocket carrier bearing. They don't have a seal on the inside and are notorious for getting gunked up and failing.

I lost my entire swingarm when mine went.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #58859
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckychucky View Post
Your right on all accounts. I only get to die once. I hope it cuts my head clean off Seriously, most of my riding is within city limits. It's is a little awkward, but I can deal with it until the end. But, I do agree with you on all of your points. If I didn't have to change all the cables, I'd already have ape hangers right behind the windshield. I feel like the DR stock kinda rides like a mild cafe racer. I wear a full face helmet, maybe it will save me from some of the windshield damage. Hopefully. Very good points.
while my windscreen and headlight assembly are a little different than yours, they're wery similar - i see no reason why you couldn't mount your windscreen in front of, instead of behind the headlight assembly:


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Old 01-10-2012, 07:55 PM   #58860
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJincs View Post
There's 3 bearings in the rear. Check you sprocket carrier bearing. They don't have a seal on the inside and are notorious for getting gunked up and failing.

I lost my entire swingarm when mine went.
HiJincs had some very bad luck. Man, that is nasty.
But I don't believe DR650 rear wheel bearings/Hubb are "notorious" for failing. In fact, very few reports of this here among the hundreds of DR's we hear about.

An Aussie guy or two have had them go ... and maybe a few more. Not really common from my dim memory over the last few years.

But if you have some "wiggle" on the sprocket, you should take a look and cop a feel on those bearings (3). I'm betting new Cush Rubbers would solve your problems 100%. Cush rubbers always seem to "look" normal. But I change them anyway and it really has helped. They only stay tight for 10K to 15K miles ... or so.

There is a reason Suzuki use open face wheel bearings. (open on one side) This allows them to be cleaned and re-packed. Sealed bearings don't allow this ... and once water or crud get in, you're sunk. Can you tell I just got a tutorial from my "bearing expert" neighbor? He sells grease for a major supplier to food service processors. Bearings and grease are his life. (former Chevron chemist)

His take:
If you clean (best you can) and re-grease your bearings at every tire change, most times you should be OK for many years. But always try to give them a good feel ... make sure they feel smooth, no roughness or looseness.

It's hard to get to the inner Hubb bearing. I use a "poker" to dab on a bit of fresh grease. Never over pack your bearings, don't go crazy.

There are always exceptions. Much depends on use.

Things that are hard on wheel/Hubb bearings:
1. Lots of river/stream crossings or beach riding.
2. Constant rain riding.
3, Heavy loads chugging over steep, rough ground, especially two up.
4. An over tight chain. NOTE: A heavy rider may be compressing the suspension enough to make chain TOO TIGHT ... Not good.* Tight chain is hard on the hubb bearing, countershaft bearing too.

*So have someone check chain slack with YOU on the bike, feet up. When you're off the bike the chain may appear a bit loose. No worries.
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