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Old 01-15-2012, 09:04 PM   #59026
eRRmmm
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Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
Oddometer: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Everyone's comfort cues are a bit different here. I'm shorter than you and can stand for long periods without much discomfort ... and no problem from wind pressure unless riding into a serious headwind.

I'm bothered more from the width of the nose of the Corbin seat rather than wind pressure. (bugs my inner thighs a bit) I just lean into the wind and relax and let it support me.

Maybe bar risers would help you? Get the bars UP and BACK a bit so you're not hunched forward so far. Combine with a shield ... might help? Kind of trial and error for this sort of thing. Very subjective. Good luck!
It already has about 1 inch of rise on the bars due to the Tag bar adapters, and lowered pegs. Another inch of bar rise might help. I'll see if I can get even flatter bars (which will mean pretty much zero sweep).

When I'm standing in normal trail riding (fairly aggressive but I'm no Chad Reed) I'm quite comfortable, so I think the actual bar height is probably ok, but the problem is I'm too vertical, so above 80kmh I have to either hang on using my arms/shoulders and knees, or lean right forward. Either option won't work for long distance standing at speed as I wear out too quick. I never had this problem on my XR4, I think it's because the pegs are too close to the bars for me (I've got long legs/arms for my height).

A screen might help take the wind pressure off, I'll be getting a Screens for Bikes screen soon since they are in Aus and get good reports. Need to let the bike account get back in the black first though, just ordered a Seat Concepts kit and bought a new helmet/boots.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #59027
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
It already has about 1 inch of rise on the bars due to the Tag bar adapters, and lowered pegs. Another inch of bar rise might help. I'll see if I can get even flatter bars (which will mean pretty much zero sweep).

When I'm standing in normal trail riding (fairly aggressive but I'm no Chad Reed) I'm quite comfortable, so I think the actual bar height is probably ok, but the problem is I'm too vertical, so above 80kmh I have to either hang on using my arms/shoulders and knees, or lean right forward. Either option won't work for long distance standing at speed as I wear out too quick. I never had this problem on my XR4, I think it's because the pegs are too close to the bars for me (I've got long legs/arms for my height).

A screen might help take the wind pressure off, I'll be getting a Screens for Bikes screen soon since they are in Aus and get good reports. Need to let the bike account get back in the black first though, just ordered a Seat Concepts kit and bought a new helmet/boots.
I'm a bit taller, 6' 2" + and shrinking as I get older. I've got lower and more rearset pegs than the Procycle ones. Ended up maked my own hangers. Note its the back of the peg that determiines where your instep is and therefore the peg position, not the peg centre, unless your are up on the balls of your feet, which is good for sand. I could never get used to the rubber mounts and mine are solid, and no vibration issues. My bars are Reed/Henry Protapers that have little sweep. Can't say how high they are compared to stock because of the different triple clamp and damper mount, but they are up and forward. The Screens For Bikes screen helps too. Was briefly without one after an altercation with a tree and got a replacement. definitely works. Just gotta test different stuff to get what works for you.




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Old 01-15-2012, 09:50 PM   #59028
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnsfxr View Post
Stock bars are almost as wide 30 3/4" approx. Adding brush guards adds 3/4" to each side is the reason I wanted to take an inch or so off. Oh well I don't do much single track brush/tree riding any more.

Yes the HDB set up is sweet but for the same price I got the new bars and brush guards with some change left over. I have a GT1000 and an ST1300 that I have to share the $s with so I'm always looking for a better deal.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:21 AM   #59029
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Okay, one more bearing question for you seasoned bearing dudes! Should be the last...

Would it be better to get pre-greased dual sealed bearings? Or Single seal bearings so i can pack them with my own waterproof grease?

I'm wondering how well the dual sealed ones will do being i cant clean and re-grease them..
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:45 AM   #59030
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post

I'm wondering how well the dual sealed ones will do being i cant clean and re-grease them..
You just flick the seals out using the tip of a small pocket knife starting at the outside.
Take what gets posted sometimes with a pinch of salt.

I doubt very much there are many people who remove the wheel bearings,grease them and reinstall.
You would do more harm than good especially the sprocket carrier bearing.
It is much easier to replace the wheel bearings and carrier bearing with dual sealed items (they will last for considerable mileage.
If you are going to the trouble,also grease the the steering head bearings and rear brake pedal pivot as both come with minimal grease from the factory.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:49 AM   #59031
ADV8
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I am sure the bearing experts can answer this

I have run C3 clearance bearings for some time (especially in the carrier)
What say you of that.

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Old 01-16-2012, 03:31 AM   #59032
eRRmmm
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Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
Oddometer: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I'm a bit taller, 6' 2" + and shrinking as I get older. I've got lower and more rearset pegs than the Procycle ones. Ended up maked my own hangers. Note its the back of the peg that determiines where your instep is and therefore the peg position, not the peg centre, unless your are up on the balls of your feet, which is good for sand. I could never get used to the rubber mounts and mine are solid, and no vibration issues. My bars are Reed/Henry Protapers that have little sweep. Can't say how high they are compared to stock because of the different triple clamp and damper mount, but they are up and forward. The Screens For Bikes screen helps too. Was briefly without one after an altercation with a tree and got a replacement. definitely works. Just gotta test different stuff to get what works for you.

Steve

Thanks Steve that helps a lot, especially the photo - I've been thinking of custom peg mounts myself.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:50 AM   #59033
eRRmmm
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Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
Oddometer: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
You just flick the seals out using the tip of a small pocket knife starting at the outside.
Take what gets posted sometimes with a pinch of salt.

I doubt very much there are many people who remove the wheel bearings,grease them and reinstall.
You would do more harm than good especially the sprocket carrier bearing.
It is much easier to replace the wheel bearings and carrier bearing with dual sealed items (they will last for considerable mileage.
If you are going to the trouble,also grease the the steering head bearings and rear brake pedal pivot as both come with minimal grease from the factory.
My thoughts exactly - how do you remove the bearing to regrease it, without hammering/putting pressure on the inner race? If you don't remove it, how can you properly clean all the grit out before re-greasing it?

I think my DR dual sealed bearings were about $30 front and rear including carrier bearing, purchased at a bearing supplier (not including seals). Why stuff around trying to remove and re-grease them when you can just replace them with brand new ones?

IMHO, put new dual-sealed bearings in frequently, every set of chain/sprockets, every 10,000km whatever. They are cheap, it's an easy job, and if you always have newish bearings in you are unlikely to have bearing problems.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:39 AM   #59034
blackcap
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so has anyone ever replaced fork seals without dismantling the forks completely? im in kupang, indonesia on my way to bali where i plan to replace the blown right seal but am not really looking forward to dismantling the forks.

just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:13 AM   #59035
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.

30mm
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:48 AM   #59036
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
If you want the snap to pull 2nd gear wheelies on stock gears without clutching, drill the 2nd hole in the slide. It may accelerate slide wear, but you can budget for carb parts/upgrade, enjoying the extra snap in the meantime.
That second hole makes that much difference? I was afraid to drill it because of the serious surging problems this bike has had... but those wheelies sound nice.

I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox. I like to keep my bikes stock (except to fix California smog de-tuning!). I tried the airbox door off but I didn't like that the sound of of the intake is louder than the exhaust.

Are there settings that work with the stock airbox or is there no choice but to cut?
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:23 AM   #59037
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
That second hole makes that much difference? I was afraid to drill it because of the serious surging problems this bike has had... but those wheelies sound nice.

I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox. I like to keep my bikes stock (except to fix California smog de-tuning!). I tried the airbox door off but I didn't like that the sound of of the intake is louder than the exhaust.

Are there settings that work with the stock airbox or is there no choice but to cut?
When I got my DR650, the PO had cut the top and taken off the side of the airbox. After riding it a bit, I decided that it made too much noise from the intake. I bought the stock side cover and put it on. Now it's quieter and with the top opened, (and the extra hole drilled in the slide),it's pretty snappy!
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:09 AM   #59038
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
so has anyone ever replaced fork seals without dismantling the forks completely? im in kupang, indonesia on my way to bali where i plan to replace the blown right seal but am not really looking forward to dismantling the forks.

just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.
Have you tried to run a thin film strip around the seal lip? Many leaks are just a bit of debris caught there.

Getting the seal out without disassembly could be a pita, here's pics so you can think about a solution.







Edit: This might work, carefully pull it around the diameter.

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-16-2012 at 11:47 AM
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:08 AM   #59039
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox.
That is because the needle profile is not correct for an intact airbox. If you don't open up the airbox your jetting will be too rich from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 regardless of where you have the clip positioned. It is not possible to have it both ways.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:18 PM   #59040
Willson
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3rd gear problem

Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
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