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Old 01-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #59026
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Procycle Jeff

you have any side by side pics of your 2 option for DIY seat covers?
seat concepts & saddleman
http://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #59027
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That is because the needle profile is not correct for an intact airbox. If you don't open up the airbox your jetting will be too rich from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 regardless of where you have the clip positioned. It is not possible to have it both ways.
Ah I see. The new needle does a have a radically different profile than the stock one (much thinner at the end). Thanks for the info, I guess I have to cut.

Someone should make an airbox "silencer hi-flow side cover" for those who don't like irreversible mods
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:29 PM   #59028
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
Someone should make an airbox "silencer hi-flow side cover"
Yeah, I've looked at doing just that but have not come up with a way that would still allow the airbox to fully breathe.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #59029
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Thanks for the update on your solution - you made the correct choice, not replacing everything the mechanic recommended. Seeing the "long crack" in the gear also provides backing to those recommending immediate inspection of the gears. Something akin to "Where there's smoke, there's fire."

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson View Post
Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:12 PM   #59030
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson View Post
Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
Nice to have the update, glad you didn't decide to run it any farther after finding the chunk.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:46 PM   #59031
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
My thoughts exactly - how do you remove the bearing to regrease it, without hammering/putting pressure on the inner race? If you don't remove it, how can you properly clean all the grit out before re-greasing it?

I think my DR dual sealed bearings were about $30 front and rear including carrier bearing, purchased at a bearing supplier (not including seals). Why stuff around trying to remove and re-grease them when you can just replace them with brand new ones?

IMHO, put new dual-sealed bearings in frequently, every set of chain/sprockets, every 10,000km whatever. They are cheap, it's an easy job, and if you always have newish bearings in you are unlikely to have bearing problems.
Cleaning bearings in situ isn't too hard with the right tools. You obviously need to expose the balls. Carefully plucking the seal if you have one. I use a very small flat blade screw driver from the outside and case not to damage the seal.

I use an air compressor and fluid blow gun and it works a treat. I use a mix of degreaser and diesel or kerosine. Don't spin the bearings dry. I'll also use some chain lube, I like Shell for this purpose, to foam its way into the bearing when relubing. I don't like the Shell on chains, buts its a great heavy duty lube for bearings like these and suspension linkages, and other jobs around the bike and shed.

FWIW, I'm not a great fan of cleaning bearings. Get them properly installed and lubed, and if they need cleaning then its probably because they are already on the way out. For me, after installation, leave them be, or replace. I generally repack new wheel bearings though, using double sealed ones. pluck the seal, press in some more high temp wheel bearing grease, and some Shell chain lube. Don't overfill them, I reckon about 70-80% full.

Re C3 bearings. They are normally intended for use inside engines, or where temperatures are higher. The extra clearance/slop that they have engineered into them is taken up by the expansion in the hotter environment and then should end up about the same clearance as the C2 s we normally use in wheel bearings etc.

Whether, C3s are a good idea in wheels, no idea, but if it works, can't be bad

Steve
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:58 PM   #59032
dec181966
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Location: Princeton Texas
Oddometer: 163
what is high mileage on a DR??

Hi All,

I sold one of my other bikes and now have the cash to buy my first DR650.

I have found a 2005 with 23,000 miles for $2700. A good price I think but what kind of miles do the DRs get before the motors start to need work assuming it was well maintained?? 40K, 50K, 100K????

Thanks for the help!!

Michael
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:02 PM   #59033
dljocky
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Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 863
Speaking of wheel bearings, where/what are the best ones to put in the DR? I'm pretty happy with the OEM bearings, no problems at 30,000 miles on my 2009, but thinking I may need some soon? Are the OEM ones sealed, and if not, what's the difference? Sorry, I'm a noob at mechanics.

Thanks




Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Cleaning bearings in situ isn't too hard with the right tools. You obviously need to expose the balls. Carefully plucking the seal if you have one. I use a very small flat blade screw driver from the outside and case not to damage the seal.

I use an air compressor and fluid blow gun and it works a treat. I use a mix of degreaser and diesel or kerosine. Don't spin the bearings dry. I'll also use some chain lube, I like Shell for this purpose, to foam its way into the bearing when relubing. I don't like the Shell on chains, buts its a great heavy duty lube for bearings like these and suspension linkages, and other jobs around the bike and shed.

FWIW, I'm not a great fan of cleaning bearings. Get them properly installed and lubed, and if they need cleaning then its probably because they are already on the way out. For me, after installation, leave them be, or replace. I generally repack new wheel bearings though, using double sealed ones. pluck the seal, press in some more high temp wheel bearing grease, and some Shell chain lube. Don't overfill them, I reckon about 70-80% full.

Re C3 bearings. They are normally intended for use inside engines, or where temperatures are higher. The extra clearance/slop that they have engineered into them is taken up by the expansion in the hotter environment and then should end up about the same clearance as the C2 s we normally use in wheel bearings etc.

Whether, C3s are a good idea in wheels, no idea, but if it works, can't be bad

Steve
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:34 PM   #59034
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Speaking of wheel bearings, where/what are the best ones to put in the DR? I'm pretty happy with the OEM bearings, no problems at 30,000 miles on my 2009, but thinking I may need some soon? Are the OEM ones sealed, and if not, what's the difference? Sorry, I'm a noob at mechanics.

Thanks
The OEM ones are seal one side only.

SKF or NTN double sided are sweet.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:38 PM   #59035
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dec181966 View Post
Hi All,

I sold one of my other bikes and now have the cash to buy my first DR650.

I have found a 2005 with 23,000 miles for $2700. A good price I think but what kind of miles do the DRs get before the motors start to need work assuming it was well maintained?? 40K, 50K, 100K????

Thanks for the help!!

Michael
I'd expect 40-50,000 at least.

Mine is about due for a valve clearance check. It's been 16,000km since they were last done...

Wow, now I've got the little TT350, the DR has gone from 24,000km to 13,000km per year...
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:43 PM   #59036
dec181966
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Location: Princeton Texas
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I'd expect 40-50,000 at least.

Mine is about due for a valve clearance check. It's been 16,000km since they were last done...

Wow, now I've got the little TT350, the DR has gone from 24,000km to 13,000km per year...

Thanks NordieBoy!

I really like the bike. It is a great stock platform for me to start the farklefest on. At that price I would have about $2000 to build my dream adv bike!!

Be safe,

Michael
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:19 PM   #59037
yokesman
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you can get a grease gun needle for sealed bearings from NAPA , many on the farm use them to keep their machinery going. come in a two pack
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:48 PM   #59038
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 18,991
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The OEM ones are seal one side only.

SKF or NTN double sided are sweet.
Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:36 PM   #59039
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
30mm
thanks for that!

i tried cleaning out any debris but no good. the amount of oil coming out is definitely a blown seal. thanks for the photos though!
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:41 PM   #59040
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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Michael - seems very high on price but not sure what NorCal's market is compared to us a little south. We bought my son's 2004, with a new pumper carb, Corbin seat, steering stabilizer, suspension done, IMS tank, dirtbags, etc... 14,000 miles... $2900. This was about a year ago.

These things do seems indestructible though.
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