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Old 01-14-2012, 01:53 PM   #59026
Aerocycle
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Oregon (The valley)
Oddometer: 233
Eek Cush bearing...

Well I tore into my bike and sure enough I get down to the hub, and it's the bearing there. It's pretty loose, and only has a slight roughness to it. I'm glad I caught it in time and didn't have a catastrophic failure like a few others had. My other two bearing feel fine, there is no looseness axially or radially, and they turn smooth. I will clean and grease them. I suppose while I'm this far I'm going to get into the linkage bearings and make sure they get some grease too being I don't know who did it last... if ever

I will order up a new bearing and cush rubbers through suzuki as mine are pretty hard and 5years old. Those little suckers are spendy!!! Just for the record I have 10,400 miles on the bike, and the chain is plenty loose so I don't think that caused it.

I will purchase some marine/waterproof grease, I remember somewhere on this thread someone said they like Lucas "red 'n tacky" so I might buy that. The only other thing on my list is a shock upgrade, I thought while i'm tearing apart the rear it would be a good time to take care of that but I'm struggling with the financing part of it. I have just enough I could buy a welder, or barely a cogent shock... I'm torn because I could use both. Lol!

My opinion, judging by talking to rick over the phone and what people have said about his stuff; that its worth the extra few hundred to get his dealeo. A basic spring and gold valve is gonna run $250-$300, or the cogent at $500+ Not sure what to settle for... I can say the cogent has a gravitational pull on me...

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Old 01-14-2012, 02:16 PM   #59027
vicster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
My opinion, judging by talking to rick over the phone and what people have said about his stuff; that its worth the extra few hundred to get his dealeo. A basic spring and gold valve is gonna run $250-$300, or the cogent at $500+ Not sure what to settle for... I can say the cogent has a gravitational pull on me...
I went with the Shaft Replacement with Rebound Adjustment from ProCycle for $498 and am more than happy with it. Fast delivery and easy to do in your own garage, You will need SHOCK oil and a nitrogen recharge from your local dirt bike shop. Rebound adjustment is nice, no matter which option you choose.
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:22 PM   #59028
The Breeze
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Utah
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I went Cogent and have had 20k trouble free, fantastic miles
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:27 PM   #59029
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 2,704
Quote:
Originally Posted by vnsfxr View Post
OK then..........Bars, these are nice with a mounted cross bar for more strength - http://www.msrmx.com/ for the home, for the catalog http://www.msrcontent.com/MSRHP_012C...2MSRHPCat.html and you want pg 10 Dominator Aluminum Handlebars - 180mm rise = 7 1/8". Throttle cables moved to the throttle side of the frame under the tank. I also installed an R6 throttle tube at the same time, you will need to adjust the cables top and bottom if you do this. I think the tube was $12.00 from the local dealer. My only complaint on the bars is they are 31" wide and with the stock mirrors, contols etc. you can't cut them down and make everything work because of the top bend.

The windshield is an MRA and came with the bike, sits right over the headlight shroud and is adjustable for tilt angle after mounted, want more air just pull the top towards you http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade...tview/935/343/

I got the Tusk D-Flex brush guards and the spoilers. These come with almost all the hardware needed for 7/8" steel or aluminum handlebars. You do not need to cut your balls off with higher rise bars. Not sure on stock ones.
Issues - The bolt for the expansion piece is not long enough with the shields installed (only 3-4 threads showing), had to go to the hardware store, they did not have an allen flush mount long enough so I got Hex Head 8mm X 90mm and two 8mm washers, cost - $2.38.
I also recommend hitting the inside of the bars with a round file as it is a tight fit for the expansion pieces and I did not want to hammer them in. I left about 1/8" exposed to help with removal if needed.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...lex-Handguards

The GPS is a Zumo 220 and comes with everything needed for both car and bike, picked it up from BikeBandit.com on a Cyber Monday Sale with an additional 10% off for being an AMA member. That additional discount paid for the sales tax. I think it was $277.00 ($420.00 retail at Garmin).

I'll let you run the adding machine for the total cost of the bars and what's hanging off them.

If you want truly custom and $$$s aren't a major concern get the bars you want and the sweet HDB Guard set up
http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/
Thanks for the info.That HDB set up is the shat, but a little to pricy for this poor boy.How is the width of those dominator bars compared to the stock bars?
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #59030
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
Oddometer: 233
Today I spent some time pulling the swing arm off to get to the needle bearings down there; fortunately they look and feel fine. However, after removing the two wheel bearings I discover slight rust on one, and the other has a slight side to side movement. They were not the koyo bearings, I think they were NSK? Said Japan on them. I can't remember the brand.

Please tell me I don't need to remove all the linkage bearings to clean them.... can I just leave them installed and clean/grease them?
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:32 PM   #59031
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 2,704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Today I spent some time pulling the swing arm off to get to the needle bearings down there; fortunately they look and feel fine. However, after removing the two wheel bearings I discover slight rust on one, and the other has a slight side to side movement. They were not the koyo bearings, I think they were NSK? Said Japan on them. I can't remember the brand.

Please tell me I don't need to remove all the linkage bearings to clean them.... can I just leave them installed and clean/grease them?
I would recommend pulling everything apart,replacing any damaged parts,and greasing everything with a quality grease.I use marine trailer grease.It can be found at any walmart(I don't shop there) or auto parts store.It's just to much of a gamble to have something fail at speed and kill me.Better safe than dead or disabled.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:22 PM   #59032
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 3,995
Greece the linkage and ride. (sic) (My linkage bearings looked brand new and well greased at 15,000 miles)

I'd probably replace the wheel bearings.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #59033
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Greece the linkage and ride. (sic) (My linkage bearings looked brand new and well greased at 15,000 miles)

I'd probably replace the wheel bearings.
PLUS 1000
Grease and ride ... but look for any rusted needles. If you see rust you should replace them. Only the lower link bearing tends to rust up. The rest mostly are all UP out of the spray. Don't lose any needles ... Nice work on the Hubb/wheel bearings!
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:58 PM   #59034
eRRmmm
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
Oddometer: 516
Standing at speed on the DR

I'm still getting used to my DR, so would like to know how others get on standing on the pegs at speed. I went for a good day ride on Saturday, 400km over 6-7 hours, combination of dirt roads, dry clay twin tracks, sand and rocks, and my current set up was excellent for most 2nd-3rd gear trail riding, standing is comfortable and feels right, with my head over bikes headstem it feels nicely balanced.

About 90km of the ride was very rough dirt road, so rough in parts that I literally couldn't see when sitting I was shaking around so much. Anything less than 90kmh I dropped down into the corrugations/soft sand/gravel mix and it got much worse. So the obvious solution is to stand up, which is how I would normally ride, but on the DR I find it very hard to stay standing over 80kmh or so due to wind pressure. To get balanced I end up with my head out over the front guard, which is a very unnatural and awkward position, especially in soft conditions.

It feels like the pegs need to be further back. I have Tag tapered bars which have stuff all sweep and are already rolled forward a bit, and Procycle lowered pegs. I'm just under 6 foot.

Is there an easy way to move the pegs back? Or would a windscreen make enough difference to wind pressure to allow standing at speed?
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:14 PM   #59035
vnsfxr
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Joined: May 2003
Location: Lake County California
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go View Post
Thanks for the info.That HDB set up is the shat, but a little to pricy for this poor boy.How is the width of those dominator bars compared to the stock bars?
Stock bars are almost as wide 30 3/4" approx. Adding brush guards adds 3/4" to each side is the reason I wanted to take an inch or so off. Oh well I don't do much single track brush/tree riding any more.

Yes the HDB set up is sweet but for the same price I got the new bars and brush guards with some change left over. I have a GT1000 and an ST1300 that I have to share the $s with so I'm always looking for a better deal.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:03 PM   #59036
SeanMon
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: SoCal
Oddometer: 2
Faring Hunting

Ok so i am in the process of upgrading my 2005 DR650 and a while back came across this cool faring from some Australia guy but lost all the information on where to find him. Hopefully some one knows the source and can send me the link to this aussie....or if you have a cool faring and can send me your pic that would be cool...
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:12 PM   #59037
ShadyRascal
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: the Root, Western Montana
Oddometer: 5,749
screensforbikes.com
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Evolution, or, natural selection, has nothing to do with better.

It merely weeds out what is no longer suitable for the given context.


Originally Posted by Dragoon

I would rather be on my motorcycle thinking about God than in church thinking about my motorcycle.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:13 PM   #59038
PHILinFRANCE
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 989
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMon View Post
Ok so i am in the process of upgrading my 2005 DR650 and a while back came across this cool faring from some Australia guy but lost all the information on where to find him. Hopefully some one knows the source and can send me the link to this aussie....or if you have a cool faring and can send me your pic that would be cool...
Seanmon
Sweet............................nearly as nice as my home made job
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:21 PM   #59039
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 16,691
besides screensforbikes.com
you can also use:
http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html - sport
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe - laminar lip

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMon View Post
Ok so i am in the process of upgrading my 2005 DR650 and a while back came across this cool faring from some Australia guy but lost all the information on where to find him. Hopefully some one knows the source and can send me the link to this aussie....or if you have a cool faring and can send me your pic that would be cool...
Seanmon
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, IDBDR this summer! , COBDR info, AZBDR - now shipping!
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:04 PM   #59040
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 6,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by vicster View Post
I went with the Shaft Replacement with Rebound Adjustment from ProCycle for $498 and am more than happy with it. Fast delivery and easy to do in your own garage, You will need SHOCK oil and a nitrogen recharge from your local dirt bike shop. Rebound adjustment is nice, no matter which option you choose.
Cogent also do a shaft replacement with rebound kit.
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