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Old 01-15-2012, 04:37 PM   #59026
xKLR_John
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Any thoughts on which one of those would work better for someone 6' 2" ?

The laminar lip one claims to be height adjustable... Is that a one time thing or could you experiment to find the best mounting height?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
besides screensforbikes.com
you can also use:
http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html - sport
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe - laminar lip
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:37 PM   #59027
carcajou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
besides screensforbikes.com
you can also use:
http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html - sport
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe - laminar lip
Just my humble opinion, I have the laminar lip and am less than impressed with it. I took it off and rode without any windscreen for a week or two and honestly i could not notice any difference between nothing and this nearly hundred dollar windscreen.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:57 PM   #59028
sagebrushocean
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcajou View Post
Just my humble opinion, I have the laminar lip and am less than impressed with it. I took it off and rode without any windscreen for a week or two and honestly i could not notice any difference between nothing and this nearly hundred dollar windscreen.
By way of counterpoint, my Laminar Lip eliminated the "parachute" effect of the wind on my chest at freeway speeds, making the 75mph part of my commute a lot more pleasant. I'm 5'9", and this windscreen leaves my helmet in clean air.

I think the screensforbikes screen looks a little better than the Laminar Lip, though the sfb is a bit more expensive than the LL.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:28 PM   #59029
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
I'm still getting used to my DR, so would like to know how others get on standing on the pegs at speed. I went for a good day ride on Saturday, 400km over 6-7 hours, combination of dirt roads, dry clay twin tracks, sand and rocks, and my current set up was excellent for most 2nd-3rd gear trail riding, standing is comfortable and feels right, with my head over bikes headstem it feels nicely balanced.

About 90km of the ride was very rough dirt road, so rough in parts that I literally couldn't see when sitting I was shaking around so much. Anything less than 90kmh I dropped down into the corrugations/soft sand/gravel mix and it got much worse. So the obvious solution is to stand up, which is how I would normally ride, but on the DR I find it very hard to stay standing over 80kmh or so due to wind pressure. To get balanced I end up with my head out over the front guard, which is a very unnatural and awkward position, especially in soft conditions.

It feels like the pegs need to be further back. I have Tag tapered bars which have stuff all sweep and are already rolled forward a bit, and Procycle lowered pegs. I'm just under 6 foot.

Is there an easy way to move the pegs back? Or would a windscreen make enough difference to wind pressure to allow standing at speed?
Everyone's comfort cues are a bit different here. I'm shorter than you and can stand for long periods without much discomfort ... and no problem from wind pressure unless riding into a serious headwind.

I'm bothered more from the width of the nose of the Corbin seat rather than wind pressure. (bugs my inner thighs a bit) I just lean into the wind and relax and let it support me.

Maybe bar risers would help you? Get the bars UP and BACK a bit so you're not hunched forward so far. Combine with a shield ... might help? Kind of trial and error for this sort of thing. Very subjective. Good luck!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:38 PM   #59030
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I installed the ProCycle jet kit today on my stock California model 2007 DR650.

I only wanted to get rid of the surging and popping from stock, but wow what a difference in performance! The bike can now putt around at slow speeds and has tons of torque right from idle. And I can adjust the idle much lower without stalling.

My settings:

- Stock airbox except for snorkel removed
- Stock exhaust
- Did not drill the 2nd hole in the slide
- 145 main jet
- Needle clip on 4th position from top

When I had the slide out I noticed that there was a little bit of something like thick grease/dirt in a few places on the slide. I wiped it off and the slide seemed to move more easily, I wonder if that contributed to the surging before?
The Procycle kit is actually made to be used with a cut airbox. If you don't want to cut it just yet, you can try running with the side of the airbox off. Be careful to keep track of the nuts when you take it off, as they will fall out of their slots in the lid.

If you found a bunch of crud on the slide, I'd also recommend cleaning your carb thoroughly.

If you want the snap to pull 2nd gear wheelies on stock gears without clutching, drill the 2nd hole in the slide. It may accelerate slide wear, but you can budget for carb parts/upgrade, enjoying the extra snap in the meantime.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:09 PM   #59031
eakins
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only way to get perfect air control
is madstad http://www.madstad.com/s.nl/sc.7/category.1921/.f
as it's fully adjustable.
what works for some, does not work with others on fixed systems.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:11 PM   #59032
smilin jack
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Wobbles in the wind

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcajou View Post
Good Evening Inmates,
I am running a set of Kendra 270s on my 09 DR with Cogent Designs Suspension. When it gets windy and I am having to hold on on the road I get a bit wobbly on the front end. Nothing to scare the sand out of me or anything, Just a bit scary. Would a steering dampener or different tires make a difference on the road? We get a lot of wind here in Colorado Springs and I ride to the places where I leave the tarmac. The wobbles do not feel like the tires are out of balance. So how say you? Carcajou
Carcajou, my 2006 DR650se used to wobble in a stiff side wind. Played with the tire pressure. Increased 2 psi and tested. Kept increasing until 30 psi front and 30 psi in rear. This helped a little, but most help was to install 1.5 inch PVC pipe spacers on top of stock spacers in stock forks. Also increased the pre-load on rear spring. The P.O. had backed the pre-load way off (nuts almost off the threaded portion. Put back to stock position (7.5 inches if I remember correctly) and that helped lots.

A worn front or rear tire makes a big difference in the handling too. Don't ask how I know, but did make 10K miles on the rear Shinko 705. It was pretty square. Guess I could line up all the worn out tires for a nice photo, when the snow quits. DR has worn out 3 fronts and 4 rears in 35K miles.

The P.O. wore out the stock TW tires in 4K and I put a few weeks on them before mounting up the Shinko 705. Ran two sets of those and switched to Shinko 244. They don't last as long, but are better in the dirt and do OK on the pavement.

Dave
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:11 PM   #59033
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Everyone's comfort cues are a bit different here. I'm shorter than you and can stand for long periods without much discomfort ... and no problem from wind pressure unless riding into a serious headwind.

I'm bothered more from the width of the nose of the Corbin seat rather than wind pressure. (bugs my inner thighs a bit) I just lean into the wind and relax and let it support me.

Maybe bar risers would help you? Get the bars UP and BACK a bit so you're not hunched forward so far. Combine with a shield ... might help? Kind of trial and error for this sort of thing. Very subjective. Good luck!
sold my corbin because of standing discomfort.
sargent does not have this issue.
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:04 PM   #59034
eRRmmm
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Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Everyone's comfort cues are a bit different here. I'm shorter than you and can stand for long periods without much discomfort ... and no problem from wind pressure unless riding into a serious headwind.

I'm bothered more from the width of the nose of the Corbin seat rather than wind pressure. (bugs my inner thighs a bit) I just lean into the wind and relax and let it support me.

Maybe bar risers would help you? Get the bars UP and BACK a bit so you're not hunched forward so far. Combine with a shield ... might help? Kind of trial and error for this sort of thing. Very subjective. Good luck!
It already has about 1 inch of rise on the bars due to the Tag bar adapters, and lowered pegs. Another inch of bar rise might help. I'll see if I can get even flatter bars (which will mean pretty much zero sweep).

When I'm standing in normal trail riding (fairly aggressive but I'm no Chad Reed) I'm quite comfortable, so I think the actual bar height is probably ok, but the problem is I'm too vertical, so above 80kmh I have to either hang on using my arms/shoulders and knees, or lean right forward. Either option won't work for long distance standing at speed as I wear out too quick. I never had this problem on my XR4, I think it's because the pegs are too close to the bars for me (I've got long legs/arms for my height).

A screen might help take the wind pressure off, I'll be getting a Screens for Bikes screen soon since they are in Aus and get good reports. Need to let the bike account get back in the black first though, just ordered a Seat Concepts kit and bought a new helmet/boots.
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:47 PM   #59035
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
It already has about 1 inch of rise on the bars due to the Tag bar adapters, and lowered pegs. Another inch of bar rise might help. I'll see if I can get even flatter bars (which will mean pretty much zero sweep).

When I'm standing in normal trail riding (fairly aggressive but I'm no Chad Reed) I'm quite comfortable, so I think the actual bar height is probably ok, but the problem is I'm too vertical, so above 80kmh I have to either hang on using my arms/shoulders and knees, or lean right forward. Either option won't work for long distance standing at speed as I wear out too quick. I never had this problem on my XR4, I think it's because the pegs are too close to the bars for me (I've got long legs/arms for my height).

A screen might help take the wind pressure off, I'll be getting a Screens for Bikes screen soon since they are in Aus and get good reports. Need to let the bike account get back in the black first though, just ordered a Seat Concepts kit and bought a new helmet/boots.
I'm a bit taller, 6' 2" + and shrinking as I get older. I've got lower and more rearset pegs than the Procycle ones. Ended up maked my own hangers. Note its the back of the peg that determiines where your instep is and therefore the peg position, not the peg centre, unless your are up on the balls of your feet, which is good for sand. I could never get used to the rubber mounts and mine are solid, and no vibration issues. My bars are Reed/Henry Protapers that have little sweep. Can't say how high they are compared to stock because of the different triple clamp and damper mount, but they are up and forward. The Screens For Bikes screen helps too. Was briefly without one after an altercation with a tree and got a replacement. definitely works. Just gotta test different stuff to get what works for you.




Steve
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:50 PM   #59036
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnsfxr View Post
Stock bars are almost as wide 30 3/4" approx. Adding brush guards adds 3/4" to each side is the reason I wanted to take an inch or so off. Oh well I don't do much single track brush/tree riding any more.

Yes the HDB set up is sweet but for the same price I got the new bars and brush guards with some change left over. I have a GT1000 and an ST1300 that I have to share the $s with so I'm always looking for a better deal.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:21 AM   #59037
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Okay, one more bearing question for you seasoned bearing dudes! Should be the last...

Would it be better to get pre-greased dual sealed bearings? Or Single seal bearings so i can pack them with my own waterproof grease?

I'm wondering how well the dual sealed ones will do being i cant clean and re-grease them..
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:45 AM   #59038
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post

I'm wondering how well the dual sealed ones will do being i cant clean and re-grease them..
You just flick the seals out using the tip of a small pocket knife starting at the outside.
Take what gets posted sometimes with a pinch of salt.

I doubt very much there are many people who remove the wheel bearings,grease them and reinstall.
You would do more harm than good especially the sprocket carrier bearing.
It is much easier to replace the wheel bearings and carrier bearing with dual sealed items (they will last for considerable mileage.
If you are going to the trouble,also grease the the steering head bearings and rear brake pedal pivot as both come with minimal grease from the factory.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:49 AM   #59039
ADV8
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I am sure the bearing experts can answer this

I have run C3 clearance bearings for some time (especially in the carrier)
What say you of that.

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Old 01-16-2012, 02:31 AM   #59040
eRRmmm
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Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I'm a bit taller, 6' 2" + and shrinking as I get older. I've got lower and more rearset pegs than the Procycle ones. Ended up maked my own hangers. Note its the back of the peg that determiines where your instep is and therefore the peg position, not the peg centre, unless your are up on the balls of your feet, which is good for sand. I could never get used to the rubber mounts and mine are solid, and no vibration issues. My bars are Reed/Henry Protapers that have little sweep. Can't say how high they are compared to stock because of the different triple clamp and damper mount, but they are up and forward. The Screens For Bikes screen helps too. Was briefly without one after an altercation with a tree and got a replacement. definitely works. Just gotta test different stuff to get what works for you.

Steve

Thanks Steve that helps a lot, especially the photo - I've been thinking of custom peg mounts myself.
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