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Old 01-16-2012, 02:50 AM   #59041
eRRmmm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
You just flick the seals out using the tip of a small pocket knife starting at the outside.
Take what gets posted sometimes with a pinch of salt.

I doubt very much there are many people who remove the wheel bearings,grease them and reinstall.
You would do more harm than good especially the sprocket carrier bearing.
It is much easier to replace the wheel bearings and carrier bearing with dual sealed items (they will last for considerable mileage.
If you are going to the trouble,also grease the the steering head bearings and rear brake pedal pivot as both come with minimal grease from the factory.
My thoughts exactly - how do you remove the bearing to regrease it, without hammering/putting pressure on the inner race? If you don't remove it, how can you properly clean all the grit out before re-greasing it?

I think my DR dual sealed bearings were about $30 front and rear including carrier bearing, purchased at a bearing supplier (not including seals). Why stuff around trying to remove and re-grease them when you can just replace them with brand new ones?

IMHO, put new dual-sealed bearings in frequently, every set of chain/sprockets, every 10,000km whatever. They are cheap, it's an easy job, and if you always have newish bearings in you are unlikely to have bearing problems.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:39 AM   #59042
blackcap
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so has anyone ever replaced fork seals without dismantling the forks completely? im in kupang, indonesia on my way to bali where i plan to replace the blown right seal but am not really looking forward to dismantling the forks.

just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:13 AM   #59043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.

30mm
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:48 AM   #59044
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
If you want the snap to pull 2nd gear wheelies on stock gears without clutching, drill the 2nd hole in the slide. It may accelerate slide wear, but you can budget for carb parts/upgrade, enjoying the extra snap in the meantime.
That second hole makes that much difference? I was afraid to drill it because of the serious surging problems this bike has had... but those wheelies sound nice.

I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox. I like to keep my bikes stock (except to fix California smog de-tuning!). I tried the airbox door off but I didn't like that the sound of of the intake is louder than the exhaust.

Are there settings that work with the stock airbox or is there no choice but to cut?
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:23 AM   #59045
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
That second hole makes that much difference? I was afraid to drill it because of the serious surging problems this bike has had... but those wheelies sound nice.

I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox. I like to keep my bikes stock (except to fix California smog de-tuning!). I tried the airbox door off but I didn't like that the sound of of the intake is louder than the exhaust.

Are there settings that work with the stock airbox or is there no choice but to cut?
When I got my DR650, the PO had cut the top and taken off the side of the airbox. After riding it a bit, I decided that it made too much noise from the intake. I bought the stock side cover and put it on. Now it's quieter and with the top opened, (and the extra hole drilled in the slide),it's pretty snappy!
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:09 AM   #59046
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
so has anyone ever replaced fork seals without dismantling the forks completely? im in kupang, indonesia on my way to bali where i plan to replace the blown right seal but am not really looking forward to dismantling the forks.

just incase i do have to split inner and outer tubes, can anyone remember what sized nut fits the internal rod thing to hold it from turning while you remove the cap screw at the base of the fork? ive got a tool at home in australia that will do the trick but i can probably get a new one made up for $2 if i can get the correct nut size.
Have you tried to run a thin film strip around the seal lip? Many leaks are just a bit of debris caught there.

Getting the seal out without disassembly could be a pita, here's pics so you can think about a solution.







Edit: This might work, carefully pull it around the diameter.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-16-2012 at 10:47 AM
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:08 AM   #59047
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I was a little disappointed that the kit didn't come with settings for a non-cut airbox.
That is because the needle profile is not correct for an intact airbox. If you don't open up the airbox your jetting will be too rich from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 regardless of where you have the clip positioned. It is not possible to have it both ways.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:18 AM   #59048
Willson
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3rd gear problem

Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:27 AM   #59049
ER70S-2
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Hi Willson:
Thanks for the feedback, I frequently wonder what happens in situations like yours.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-17-2012 at 01:20 PM
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #59050
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Procycle Jeff

you have any side by side pics of your 2 option for DIY seat covers?
seat concepts & saddleman
http://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #59051
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That is because the needle profile is not correct for an intact airbox. If you don't open up the airbox your jetting will be too rich from about 1/4 throttle to 3/4 regardless of where you have the clip positioned. It is not possible to have it both ways.
Ah I see. The new needle does a have a radically different profile than the stock one (much thinner at the end). Thanks for the info, I guess I have to cut.

Someone should make an airbox "silencer hi-flow side cover" for those who don't like irreversible mods
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:29 PM   #59052
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
Someone should make an airbox "silencer hi-flow side cover"
Yeah, I've looked at doing just that but have not come up with a way that would still allow the airbox to fully breathe.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #59053
LexTalionis
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Thanks for the update on your solution - you made the correct choice, not replacing everything the mechanic recommended. Seeing the "long crack" in the gear also provides backing to those recommending immediate inspection of the gears. Something akin to "Where there's smoke, there's fire."

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson View Post
Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:12 PM   #59054
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willson View Post
Hi everyone,

Just a little update on my transmission problem.
Got stuck in Mexico with a broken 3rd gear. I got lucky and found a tooth while changing the oil. After splitting the case I could clearly see a long crack on the 3rd gear, it would have broken in half for sure...
Changed both 3rd drive + 3rd driven gears.
The bike stayed in the shop for a whole month while I waited for parts from the US, it took forever to get them even with DHL. Got the bike back it runs smooth now.

parts + service + food + accommodation cost me about $1000. I am heading to Costa Rica to find work.

Just wanted to thank everyone for there advises. Pretty cool to just post a pic of a piece of steel on the net and having guys telling you exactly what it is in a few minutes...!

Thanks again !
Nice to have the update, glad you didn't decide to run it any farther after finding the chunk.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:46 PM   #59055
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
My thoughts exactly - how do you remove the bearing to regrease it, without hammering/putting pressure on the inner race? If you don't remove it, how can you properly clean all the grit out before re-greasing it?

I think my DR dual sealed bearings were about $30 front and rear including carrier bearing, purchased at a bearing supplier (not including seals). Why stuff around trying to remove and re-grease them when you can just replace them with brand new ones?

IMHO, put new dual-sealed bearings in frequently, every set of chain/sprockets, every 10,000km whatever. They are cheap, it's an easy job, and if you always have newish bearings in you are unlikely to have bearing problems.
Cleaning bearings in situ isn't too hard with the right tools. You obviously need to expose the balls. Carefully plucking the seal if you have one. I use a very small flat blade screw driver from the outside and case not to damage the seal.

I use an air compressor and fluid blow gun and it works a treat. I use a mix of degreaser and diesel or kerosine. Don't spin the bearings dry. I'll also use some chain lube, I like Shell for this purpose, to foam its way into the bearing when relubing. I don't like the Shell on chains, buts its a great heavy duty lube for bearings like these and suspension linkages, and other jobs around the bike and shed.

FWIW, I'm not a great fan of cleaning bearings. Get them properly installed and lubed, and if they need cleaning then its probably because they are already on the way out. For me, after installation, leave them be, or replace. I generally repack new wheel bearings though, using double sealed ones. pluck the seal, press in some more high temp wheel bearing grease, and some Shell chain lube. Don't overfill them, I reckon about 70-80% full.

Re C3 bearings. They are normally intended for use inside engines, or where temperatures are higher. The extra clearance/slop that they have engineered into them is taken up by the expansion in the hotter environment and then should end up about the same clearance as the C2 s we normally use in wheel bearings etc.

Whether, C3s are a good idea in wheels, no idea, but if it works, can't be bad

Steve
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