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Old 01-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #59041
dljocky
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Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 863
Thanks Nordieboy and Eakins. Where do I purchase these at?



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #59042
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
That second hole makes that much difference?
I'm no carb expert, but I was a bit surprised when the front end came up in 2nd one day, soon after installing the kit. What really shocked me though, was when I took off the loud FMF muff that was coming apart and re-installed the stock muff the PO included with the bike. It's much quieter now, if a little heavier, but the front end still comes up in 2nd if I have the revs up a bit and lean back as I gas it. It just doesn't JUMP up, like it did, even in 1st. Now...I haven't dropped the 150 mainjet to the recommended-for-Buick 145 mainjet yet, or raised the clip on the needle, but I did re-adjust the idle-mix screw. It's gotta be running a bit rich on any throttle right now, but it's not so rich that plugs are fouling. This is with a Uni filter.

I get around 50MPG, unless I'm flogging it or crawling in low gears.

If I was any closer to sea-level, BTW, I'd need flippers.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:16 PM   #59043
vnsfxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dec181966 View Post
Hi All,

I sold one of my other bikes and now have the cash to buy my first DR650.

I have found a 2005 with 23,000 miles for $2700. A good price I think but what kind of miles do the DRs get before the motors start to need work assuming it was well maintained?? 40K, 50K, 100K????

Thanks for the help!!

Michael
Michael,

The DR is at a bit higher premium up here. I got mine on a visit down South visiting family and friends.

'07 with 10XXX miles, IMS 4.9 gal tank, OEM skid plate, ratty FMF non-silencer, MRA screen, Pro Moto tail and side racks for $3250. It also had a Super Moto front fender and hand shields that have since been replaced.

:
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:23 PM   #59044
dec181966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Michael - seems very high on price but not sure what NorCal's market is compared to us a little south. We bought my son's 2004, with a new pumper carb, Corbin seat, steering stabilizer, suspension done, IMS tank, dirtbags, etc... 14,000 miles... $2900. This was about a year ago.

These things do seems indestructible though.
Hey TH,

Thanks for the response! I am trying to be cool and get the best deal but damn I want my DR
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:54 PM   #59045
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks Nordieboy and Eakins. Where do I purchase these at?
any parts store or bearing shop
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:20 PM   #59046
FloridaSteve
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Aaaaand Done!!... for now anyway. Threw it into a few turns this weekend with more abandon than I think I ever managed with a motorcycle since my 20's. Oh dear this is going to be a fun spring.

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Old 01-16-2012, 07:40 PM   #59047
TrophyHunter
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Michael - yeah...poked around NorCal Craigslist a bit...seems like they hold better up there. In the end, do what makes ya smile and never look back. I imagine nobody here is retiring any later over a few hundred bucks.

Steve - very nice. I don't know what it is about the black rims - they look perfect on the DR. I wouldn't trust myself with the full SUMO...my extra wheel set with 705's on 'em has been fun enough. Maybe someday.......
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:51 PM   #59048
ER70S-2
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Wheel Bearings

Somewhere back in this thread, another inmate said it's easy to double seal our stock single seal wheel bearings. And since the stock bearings have a very good reputation, unlike some of the aftermarket replacements, I filed the info in my head until I decided to change mine at 20,700 ish. I re-used the old seals, added a little extra grease to the new bearings and ended up with high quality dual seal OEM bearings. For the record: I know there are high quality, low cost, dual seal, aftermarket replacements...........somewhere. I just ordered from RonAyers and never left the house.

Weird, I uploaded all my 800 pixel wide photos to Smugmug and two are a little smaller.
Here are the pics.



There's a ledge under the seal, work the pick past it. BergDonk comes in from the outside edge, with a small screwdriver. It also has a lip.

Edit :
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The advantage of working the outside of the seal is that its a larger radius and less likely to kink. Likewise, using a small flat blade increases the surface area of the plucking tool and creates less pressure and therefore less likely to damage the seal.
Whatever works.


Gently twist and pull and out pops the seal.



Here you can see both bearing lips that you're working the pick past. Pretty clean inside, remember, this bearing has over 20,000 miles.



Crap!!



But the previous inmate had said, 'they might kink and are easy to straighten'. He's right. I used a flat punch small enough to sit flat on the metal surface. I did NOT use a hammer, I just leaned on it and worked it around until I ended up with this. Even with macro photography, I can't find the ding.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 01-16-2012, 07:56 PM   #59049
BergDonk
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[QUOTE=ER70S-2;17769254]

There's a ledge under the seal, work the pick past it. BergDonk comes in from the outside edge, it also has a lip.

Gently twist and pull and out pops the seal.
/QUOTE]

The advantage of working the outside of the seal is that its a larger radius and less likely to kink. Likewise, using a small flat blade increases the surface are of the plucking tool and creates less pressure and therefore less likely to damage the seal.

Whatever works
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:58 PM   #59050
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
thanks for that!

i tried cleaning out any debris but no good. the amount of oil coming out is definitely a blown seal. thanks for the photos though!
Make sure your fork tube is not nicked. This often will cut your new seal. If you do find a nick or boo boo ... you can have the fork polished by a pro and get it out. (most times)

Using a piece of 35mm film to clean in under the seal has saved me a few times ... so it's always good to try that before pulling out the old seal.

A maintenance thing to do on the DR forks if you have the stock fork gaiters is to pull them up and clean in and around the seal and dust cover.
Get the sand and crud out of there. Your seals will last much longer if you do this .... especially after riding in wet, off road conditions.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:05 PM   #59051
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

There's a ledge under the seal, work the pick past it. BergDonk comes in from the outside edge, it also has a lip.

Gently twist and pull and out pops the seal.
The advantage of working the outside of the seal is that its a larger radius and less likely to kink. Likewise, using a small flat blade increases the surface are of the plucking tool and creates less pressure and therefore less likely to damage the seal.

Whatever works
I'll mention that when I put the info in the DR index. Fixt.
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-16-2012 at 08:53 PM
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #59052
H14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks Nordieboy and Eakins. Where do I purchase these at?

MOTION INDUSTRIES
1220-D FLEETWAY DRIVE
CHESAPEAKE, VA 23323
Phone: (757) 487-0311

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Old 01-16-2012, 10:33 PM   #59053
3DChief
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Had a unique opportunity to do a side by side comparison between my '99 KLR 250 and my '96 DR650 yesterday. Riding twisty mountain roads around wine country with my buddy and my wife. I put him on my KLR and I was riding my DR initially. After about 50 miles, I traded him bikes for about 10 miles and some things became relatively obvious to me:

Stability: while the KLR250 is much more "flickable", it feels much less stable and the throttle has less impact on recovering stability. The DR felt rock solid and any time I wanted throttle to get things back under control, it was very much quicker to respond. Handling wise they were about the same with a slight edge to the DR due to power on tap and better suspension. The downside for the DR on damp pavement was that anything more than very judicious throttle in a corner would break the rear tire loose and make the ride more interesting, not an issue with the KLR250.

Comfort: Although the suspension feels much stiffer on the DR, it is much more comfortable than the KLR250. Much less buzzy and the soft suspension on the KLR feels "squirmy" at times. The DR does have an unfair advantage in the seat department since it has a Seat Concepts seat and the KLR250 is still the stock seat with a Stearns ATV pad.

Mileage: I did 167.1 miles on the ride yesterday. No problem for the DR with the IMS 4.9 gal tank. The KLR250 with its little 2.9 gal stock tank needed a refuel at 130 miles, even though it is getting 60+ mpg. This was one of the primary reasons I upgraded to the DR was a lack of aftermarket parts for the KLR250. The only aftermarket tank is a 3.2 gal Clarke tank, so $300 to haul an extra .3 gal!

Final analysis: I think I will keep them both! I have been riding the KLR250 since I bought it new in 1999. I have a very strong attachment to it and feel like it is a part of me. Downsides are lack of aftermarket support and kickstart only. Just pushing the magic button on the DR was really nice. I got the DR for doing the TAT this summer and have spent the last year getting it appropriately farkled for the adventure. I am quickly growing just as attached to the DR as I am to the KLR250.

Tim

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Old 01-16-2012, 11:17 PM   #59054
eRRmmm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I'd expect 40-50,000 at least.

Mine is about due for a valve clearance check. It's been 16,000km since they were last done...

Wow, now I've got the little TT350, the DR has gone from 24,000km to 13,000km per year...
My favourite bike of all time (so far) was my TT350. Partly because I bought it as a wreck and rebuilt it, but mostly cos it was just so much fun to ride. I sold it and bought an XR4 which was great but not as much fun as the TT.

DR's are good too though
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:42 PM   #59055
Aerocycle
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Thanks ER70S-2 for posting those pics of the bearings! Excellent!

I would do just that but my bearings aren't worth keeping, besides its affordable to buy new koyo's through a bearing dealer locally. I think i'll hang onto my old seals just in case...
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