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Old 01-16-2012, 03:34 PM   #59041
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Speaking of wheel bearings, where/what are the best ones to put in the DR? I'm pretty happy with the OEM bearings, no problems at 30,000 miles on my 2009, but thinking I may need some soon? Are the OEM ones sealed, and if not, what's the difference? Sorry, I'm a noob at mechanics.

Thanks
The OEM ones are seal one side only.

SKF or NTN double sided are sweet.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #59042
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dec181966 View Post
Hi All,

I sold one of my other bikes and now have the cash to buy my first DR650.

I have found a 2005 with 23,000 miles for $2700. A good price I think but what kind of miles do the DRs get before the motors start to need work assuming it was well maintained?? 40K, 50K, 100K????

Thanks for the help!!

Michael
I'd expect 40-50,000 at least.

Mine is about due for a valve clearance check. It's been 16,000km since they were last done...

Wow, now I've got the little TT350, the DR has gone from 24,000km to 13,000km per year...
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:43 PM   #59043
dec181966
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Location: NorCal in the vines
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I'd expect 40-50,000 at least.

Mine is about due for a valve clearance check. It's been 16,000km since they were last done...

Wow, now I've got the little TT350, the DR has gone from 24,000km to 13,000km per year...

Thanks NordieBoy!

I really like the bike. It is a great stock platform for me to start the farklefest on. At that price I would have about $2000 to build my dream adv bike!!

Be safe,

Michael
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:19 PM   #59044
yokesman
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you can get a grease gun needle for sealed bearings from NAPA , many on the farm use them to keep their machinery going. come in a two pack
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:48 PM   #59045
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The OEM ones are seal one side only.

SKF or NTN double sided are sweet.
Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:36 PM   #59046
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
30mm
thanks for that!

i tried cleaning out any debris but no good. the amount of oil coming out is definitely a blown seal. thanks for the photos though!
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:41 PM   #59047
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Michael - seems very high on price but not sure what NorCal's market is compared to us a little south. We bought my son's 2004, with a new pumper carb, Corbin seat, steering stabilizer, suspension done, IMS tank, dirtbags, etc... 14,000 miles... $2900. This was about a year ago.

These things do seems indestructible though.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:42 PM   #59048
dljocky
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Thanks Nordieboy and Eakins. Where do I purchase these at?



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:56 PM   #59049
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
That second hole makes that much difference?
I'm no carb expert, but I was a bit surprised when the front end came up in 2nd one day, soon after installing the kit. What really shocked me though, was when I took off the loud FMF muff that was coming apart and re-installed the stock muff the PO included with the bike. It's much quieter now, if a little heavier, but the front end still comes up in 2nd if I have the revs up a bit and lean back as I gas it. It just doesn't JUMP up, like it did, even in 1st. Now...I haven't dropped the 150 mainjet to the recommended-for-Buick 145 mainjet yet, or raised the clip on the needle, but I did re-adjust the idle-mix screw. It's gotta be running a bit rich on any throttle right now, but it's not so rich that plugs are fouling. This is with a Uni filter.

I get around 50MPG, unless I'm flogging it or crawling in low gears.

If I was any closer to sea-level, BTW, I'd need flippers.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:16 PM   #59050
vnsfxr
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Location: Lake County California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dec181966 View Post
Hi All,

I sold one of my other bikes and now have the cash to buy my first DR650.

I have found a 2005 with 23,000 miles for $2700. A good price I think but what kind of miles do the DRs get before the motors start to need work assuming it was well maintained?? 40K, 50K, 100K????

Thanks for the help!!

Michael
Michael,

The DR is at a bit higher premium up here. I got mine on a visit down South visiting family and friends.

'07 with 10XXX miles, IMS 4.9 gal tank, OEM skid plate, ratty FMF non-silencer, MRA screen, Pro Moto tail and side racks for $3250. It also had a Super Moto front fender and hand shields that have since been replaced.

:
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:23 PM   #59051
dec181966
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: NorCal in the vines
Oddometer: 158
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Michael - seems very high on price but not sure what NorCal's market is compared to us a little south. We bought my son's 2004, with a new pumper carb, Corbin seat, steering stabilizer, suspension done, IMS tank, dirtbags, etc... 14,000 miles... $2900. This was about a year ago.

These things do seems indestructible though.
Hey TH,

Thanks for the response! I am trying to be cool and get the best deal but damn I want my DR
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:54 PM   #59052
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks Nordieboy and Eakins. Where do I purchase these at?
any parts store or bearing shop
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #59053
FloridaSteve
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Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Aaaaand Done!!... for now anyway. Threw it into a few turns this weekend with more abandon than I think I ever managed with a motorcycle since my 20's. Oh dear this is going to be a fun spring.

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Old 01-16-2012, 08:40 PM   #59054
TrophyHunter
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Michael - yeah...poked around NorCal Craigslist a bit...seems like they hold better up there. In the end, do what makes ya smile and never look back. I imagine nobody here is retiring any later over a few hundred bucks.

Steve - very nice. I don't know what it is about the black rims - they look perfect on the DR. I wouldn't trust myself with the full SUMO...my extra wheel set with 705's on 'em has been fun enough. Maybe someday.......
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:51 PM   #59055
ER70S-2
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Wheel Bearings

Somewhere back in this thread, another inmate said it's easy to double seal our stock single seal wheel bearings. And since the stock bearings have a very good reputation, unlike some of the aftermarket replacements, I filed the info in my head until I decided to change mine at 20,700 ish. I re-used the old seals, added a little extra grease to the new bearings and ended up with high quality dual seal OEM bearings. For the record: I know there are high quality, low cost, dual seal, aftermarket replacements...........somewhere. I just ordered from RonAyers and never left the house.

Weird, I uploaded all my 800 pixel wide photos to Smugmug and two are a little smaller.
Here are the pics.



There's a ledge under the seal, work the pick past it. BergDonk comes in from the outside edge, with a small screwdriver. It also has a lip.

Edit :
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The advantage of working the outside of the seal is that its a larger radius and less likely to kink. Likewise, using a small flat blade increases the surface area of the plucking tool and creates less pressure and therefore less likely to damage the seal.
Whatever works.


Gently twist and pull and out pops the seal.



Here you can see both bearing lips that you're working the pick past. Pretty clean inside, remember, this bearing has over 20,000 miles.



Crap!!



But the previous inmate had said, 'they might kink and are easy to straighten'. He's right. I used a flat punch small enough to sit flat on the metal surface. I did NOT use a hammer, I just leaned on it and worked it around until I ended up with this. Even with macro photography, I can't find the ding.



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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-23-2012 at 10:56 PM
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