the DR650 thread

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by badactor101

Snow covered fields? Finally we have some snow, but it's mostly forested roads up here. Snow, ice, salt and sand for the duration I'm afraid. I'm in some unorganized territory near Brownville, about 160 miles and three hours north of Saco on a good day. Few bikes up here, especially the dirt variety.

Lots of 4 wheelers though

There's some ME ADV'rs up in your area. Keep an eye on the ME thread (saw your post there) - there's a very active group of ME riders from all over the state.

[Layback209]

The time has come to look into improving some of the factory suspension. I use the bike 50% street (getting to work) 50% adventure touring - camping, dirt biking, exploring old mine towns..etc. I weigh about 160lbs with riding gear and my touring luggage set up amounts to approx. 112lbs (ammo box home fabbed luggage system).

With no luggage the front suspension dives a lot under breaking and the rear at factory settings seems extra floaty...For dirt biking it feel like it rides like a Cadillac and frequently bottoms the front suspension out. please excuse my descriptions I’m not a suspension expert.

When fully loaded I crank the rear spring to max preload and it still sags real bad. If you test the suspension by lifting a luggage box and release it, the rear shock will bounce a lot with little return dampening. It rids like a chopper a gets scary in a head wind. When riding rough backcountry roads i feel like its trying to kill me.

Im looking for some advice on how to go about tweaking my suspension for a noticeable improvement. Im tossing around the idea of using some aftermarket parts from ProCycle, ie 8.3kg/mm rear spring and some .5kg/mm front springs with 10w fluid as a starting point. Has anyone used their front fork spring solution kit? How was the improvements? were they noticeable? Bellow is some pics of my rig for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[epix1718]

Start with the front springs, for your light weight daily commute and also adventure touring you should look into the ProCycle Progressive springs. Possibly adding in an emulator.

For the rear I think the 8.3kg might be a bit too stiff when you are commuting. I'm personally 215lb (was 240 when ordered the spring, woo hoo Low Carb!) and have a 7.6kg spring and it feels perfect. Even when loaded up with another 50lb in gear for weekend camping trips. Stock spring is 6.5kg.

Riders weight range / Spring rate recommended
150-180 lbs / 6.8 Kg/mm
180-215 lbs / 7.1 Kg/mm
215-225lbs / 7.4 Kg/mm
225-240Lbs / 7.6 KG/mm
230-260Lbs / 8.1 Kg/mm

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Layback209

The time has come to look into improving some of the factory suspension. I use the bike 50% street (getting to work) 50% adventure touring - camping, dirt biking, exploring old mine towns..etc. I weigh about 160lbs with riding gear and my touring luggage set up amounts to approx. 112lbs (ammo box home fabbed luggage system).

With no luggage the front suspension dives a lot under breaking and the rear at factory settings seems extra floaty...For dirt biking it feel like it rides like a Cadillac and frequently bottoms the front suspension out. please excuse my descriptions I’m not a suspension expert.

When fully loaded I crank the rear spring to max preload and it still sags real bad. If you test the suspension by lifting a luggage box and release it, the rear shock will bounce a lot with little return dampening. It rids like a chopper a gets scary in a head wind. When riding rough backcountry roads i feel like its trying to kill me.

Im looking for some advice on how to go about tweaking my suspension for a noticeable improvement. Im tossing around the idea of using some aftermarket parts from ProCycle, ie 8.3kg/mm rear spring and some .5kg/mm front springs with 10w fluid as a starting point. Has anyone used their front fork spring solution kit? How was the improvements? were they noticeable? Bellow is some pics of my rig for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, you need stiffer springs front and rear.
But once you have more spring, what small amount of damping there is will be totally gone.
Depending on your budget, the fork solution kit from Procycle is an excellent way to go.
I have had progressive rate springs in the past and I prefer straight rate.
Progressives are softer initially for nice street riding, but they also allow more fork dive when braking.

For the rear, it would be a waste of money to put on a stiffer spring when the shock needs a complete rebuild.
Procycle offers various internals for the do-it-yourself route. I had my shock rebuilt by Cogent Dynamics because of their excellent shock reputation.

Procycle, Cogent, and Keintech are all extremely helpful so give one or all off them a call and listen to their recommendations that are based on experience riding DR650's.

Tell them your budget and they can help.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Layback209

The time has come to look into improving some of the factory suspension. I use the bike 50% street (getting to work) 50% adventure touring - camping, dirt biking, exploring old mine towns..etc. I weigh about 160lbs with riding gear and my touring luggage set up amounts to approx. 112lbs (ammo box home fabbed luggage system).

With no luggage the front suspension dives a lot under breaking and the rear at factory settings seems extra floaty...For dirt biking it feel like it rides like a Cadillac and frequently bottoms the front suspension out. please excuse my descriptions I’m not a suspension expert.

When fully loaded I crank the rear spring to max preload and it still sags real bad. If you test the suspension by lifting a luggage box and release it, the rear shock will bounce a lot with little return dampening. It rids like a chopper a gets scary in a head wind. When riding rough backcountry roads i feel like its trying to kill me.

Im looking for some advice on how to go about tweaking my suspension for a noticeable improvement. Im tossing around the idea of using some aftermarket parts from ProCycle, ie 8.3kg/mm rear spring and some .5kg/mm front springs with 10w fluid as a starting point. Has anyone used their front fork spring solution kit? How was the improvements? were they noticeable? Bellow is some pics of my rig for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The shock does sag (static sag ... no rider aboard) a lot ... even with pre-load cranked to the max. Nature of the beast ... and weight of the bike and linkage design. Race Sag is more important. (you on the bike, feet up)

You can get heavier fork springs from any suspension shop but at your light weight ... I would not bother. Just try adding a 1/2" longer pre-load spacer (you can use PVC pipe), another inch of oil, use 10 wt. oil.

This is the Poor Man's way to improve the front. You are so light, that should help the front quite a bit. The front will (and SHOULD) always dive a bit under braking. If it didn't it wouldn't work very well off road. With the added spacer length, more and heavier oil, you should see improvement and stop bottoming. If not? Go to heavier springs ... but be careful ... nothing worse then an over-sprung bike.

Shock:
This is a tougher problem. No easy fix for lack of rebound. Your shock is worn out ... or on the way out. Perhaps the best value is Cogent Dynamics. They can rebuild and re-spring your shock and transform your DR to the Magic Carpet bike. This ain't cheap.

Just going to a heavier spring could actually make things worse. And for your weight 8.3 kg. may be a bit much ... even with your luggage. The main thing the stock shock lacks is adequate rebound damping.

Alternatives here are to shop around for another shock that will suit the DR650. See: Ohlins, Penske, Wilber's, Hyperpro, Elka and many others. Not all currently make a unit for the DR650 ... but look around.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

See: Ohlins, Wilber's, Hyperpro, Elka and many others. Not all currently make a unit for the DR650 ... but look around.

I've heard good things about Works Performance too, and perhaps a bit more affordable than some of the above.

Steve

[LucasLeader]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

The Shorai product is new but reports are good so far. I'd bet it lasts nearly forever in the DR. What about using a Smart Charger with it? I believe it requires a "special" charger. I'm watching reports on this battery.

I did some research before buying it, and there a is a special charger that is better to use that balances the charge in each cell which is better for it, but you can use a regular charger. It also has a much slower discharge rate, so it can sit for a year without needing to be charged, assuming there is no draw, but I ride almost every day, so that shouldn't be an issue. I was a little hesitant to buy it at first since there aren't really any long term reviews, and I usually can't afford to be the guinea pig on fancy new products, but lithium batteries are being used in other applications with good results. I'll be sure to let everyone know if I have any issues.

[ADVJake]

hi guys, i was just changing the oil and noticed an oddity as the oil was coming out, it wasnt a smooth exit like most of my bikes, but it was spraying in a random circular motion. I thought maybe a peice of motor was stuck in the hole, so i put a screwdriver up there for a feel and felt some sort of filter/cover over the drain hole.
Is that normal?

cheers

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by LucasLeader

but you can use a regular charger.

I was under the impression that a normal charger that has a desulfating cycle for lead acid batteries was detrimental to the life of the Shorai ?

Edit.

Q. Can I use Lead-Acid battery chargers or charger/tenders?

A.Yes. HOWEVER, you may NOT use a charger/tender if it has an automatic "desulfation mode", which cannot be turned off. We have confirmed with Deltran, makers of the "Battery Tender" brand, that their products do NOT have a desulfation mode, and are therefore OK for use with Shorai LFX, for example. But the best possible charger/tender for Shorai LFX is the SHO-BMS01, which will be released on about March 15th 2011, we expect. It uses the 5-pin BMS port in the LFX batteries, in order to monitor, diagnose, and balance the individual cells during charge. And it also has an optimized storage mode that will give the longest possible service life to your LFX.

[LGDH]

QUOTE=nat_han;17772022]I'm still on the lookout for the GSXR-1k Muffler!


If there's anyone going for a full system upgrade to FMF-Q4 pipe or other aftermarket brands and willing to part with yours, do let me know!


Thanks![/QUOTE]

Try EBay.uk they seem to have a few. Email them to see if they will ship to you.
I got mine from there, sent to Australia and had it in about 7 days from the time the order was placed.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSX...#ht_1425wt_689

Here's an example, sorry can't do the link yet.

[LucasLeader]

Originally Posted by ADV8

I was under the impression that a normal charger that has a desulfating cycle for lead acid batteries was detrimental to the life of the Shorai ?

That's right, forgot to mention that. You have to make sure that your charger does not have a desulfating cycle. Looking at the FAQ again, I looked at the chart and realized it would be a good idea to make sure my voltage doesn't drop under 12.8V it could harm it also. Would never think it was a problem if my lead battery dropped less than that.

http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx

Edit, Just saw your edit...heh.

[holckster]

Originally Posted by LucasLeader

I did some research before buying it, and there a is a special charger that is better to use that balances the charge in each cell which is better for it, but you can use a regular charger. It also has a much slower discharge rate, so it can sit for a year without needing to be charged, assuming there is no draw, but I ride almost every day, so that shouldn't be an issue. I was a little hesitant to buy it at first since there aren't really any long term reviews, and I usually can't afford to be the guinea pig on fancy new products, but lithium batteries are being used in other applications with good results. I'll be sure to let everyone know if I have any issues.

Stopped today at local Battery's Plus store where I get my Odyessy batteries to see if they carried the Shorai?
Nope.
Manager is a biker and said he's just not sure the product is proven yet but he has talked with Shorai.
He has a buddy that runs the Shorai in his BMW K1300 and is having starting problems durring hot situations, which can be from weather or engine heat.
Manager thinks Shorai great for guys who need to shed a few pounds for racing competition but not convinced the best for going out to the boondocks and hope it starts every time.
Think I'll stick with Odyessy till reviews are in.
Looks like the PC310 will fit my DR.

[GODSPEED]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Shock:
This is a tougher problem. No easy fix for lack of rebound. Your shock is worn out ... or on the way out. Perhaps the best value is Cogent Dynamics. They can rebuild and re-spring your shock and transform your DR to the Magic Carpet bike. This ain't cheap.

Just going to a heavier spring could actually make things worse. And for your weight 8.3 kg. may be a bit much ... even with your luggage. The main thing the stock shock lacks is adequate rebound damping.

Alternatives here are to shop around for another shock that will suit the DR650. See: Ohlins, Penske, Wilber's, Hyperpro, Elka and many others. Not all currently make a unit for the DR650 ... but look around.

Has anybody tried Ricor's rear shock?

[dobbo]

Originally Posted by ADVJake

hi guys, i was just changing the oil and noticed an oddity as the oil was coming out, it wasnt a smooth exit like most of my bikes, but it was spraying in a random circular motion. I thought maybe a peice of motor was stuck in the hole, so i put a screwdriver up there for a feel and felt some sort of filter/cover over the drain hole.
Is that normal?

cheers

No, this is not normal, sounds like something is in there.

[jon_l]

I weigh about 160lbs with riding gear and my touring luggage set up amounts to approx. 112lbs (ammo box home fabbed luggage system).

Layback - 112 lbs is a seriously heavy load. Lightening that by 50 or so lbs shouldn't be too hard. How much do those large ammo cans weigh? Soft luggage, or a couple Pelican (or knock-off Pelican) cases could save you of lots of weight.

Stiffer, better suspension will help handling too of course, just suggesting a diet is also in order. Less weight would help engine performance and fuel economy, and in particular off-road performance. I suspect ammo cans could be dangerous to your legs in an off-road get-off. She'd be a lot easier to pick-up too .