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Old 02-05-2012, 06:01 PM   #59701
epix1718
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan/Indiana border
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo View Post
I just used the stock DR mounts and bars when I fitted the RMZ forks to my bike.

-- alonzo
Thanks, that's what I just did tonight as well. Having the bike and new forks in 2 different locations makes it a bit more challenging for some of the 'what should be simple' tasks.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #59702
sandwash
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Speaking of brakes,where is a good source for a front braided brake hose?
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:09 PM   #59703
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Hold on, I didn't realize the caliper could be removed from the carrier. I've got to have a better look now. Thanks for pointing that out and I'll have a look tomorrow. That sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing here.
Just took a look at the schematic and I see what you're talking about. I think I'll pull the caliper tomorrow and tear it apart. That does seem to be what the problem could be. Can't really do it with it hooked to the brake line so it's time to pull it off and see what's going on.
If the piston moves freely as you stated previously then there should be no need to disassemble the caliper, or disconnect the fluid line, just pull the wheel and then slide the caliper off the carrier. If its the problem it may need some pushing/pulling, but there is nothing that locks it in place, other than the pads on the disc. Once the disc is out of the way, slide it off the carrier and leave the hose in place.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:36 PM   #59704
Gentleman Pirate
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Salt in me hair and bugs on me teeth...
Oddometer: 4
Booty

Well, blow me down. Make no mistake this, to err is human - to arr is Pirate
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:39 PM   #59705
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Thanks ADV8. That is the problem. The thing (hub bearing) barely turns. I've got it torn apart and I'll just let the Suzuki dealer down the road replace the bearing. I guess if I'm going to subject this bike to salt and grime I need to learn this stuff but honestly, I'll bet that's the reason it's been a rough ride at slow speeds since I bought the bike. I really appreciate the help locating the problem.
Hay Ride: Remember this? Well, while I was looking for it, BergDonk posted the answer. Number 6 and 8 must be straight (parallel), clean, shiny, and slippery (well greased). With the wheel off, the caliper will pull right off, to the right (leave the brake line attached). No telling what the previous owner bent. When I did mine they were gunky, both the pins and the sockets they ride in. Clean all the way to the bottom of the sockets, that's where I found debris.

Edit to add: Be very careful with greasing the sockets, at least one is a dead end hole. There's nowhere for extra grease to push out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
There are 2 sets of pins, the obvious ones locating and locking the pads into the caliper. These can wear, and need to be true. The other 2 pins and likely culprit, as has been mentioned previously, are those that allow the caliper to move sideways and allow for pad wear. They are protected by rubber seals. The entire caliper needs to be able to move sideways easily, and its controlled by these pins. Remove the caliper from the carrier by pushing it towards the middle of the bike and separate it from the carrier. Careful with the rubbers. Clean and lube with high temp grease and reassemble. Confirm the caliper moves freely.

Steve


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
If the piston moves freely as you stated previously then there should be no need to disassemble the caliper, or disconnect the fluid line, just pull the wheel and then slide the caliper off the carrier. If its the problem it may need some pushing/pulling, but there is nothing that locks it in place, other than the pads on the disc. Once the disc is out of the way, slide it off the carrier and leave the hose in place.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 02-05-2012 at 06:58 PM
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #59706
ride4321
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Great info. I don't think these are moving at all. I'll inspect this tomorrow and I think this is most likely the issue.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:40 PM   #59707
40cu.in.of.furey
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For you WI ILL DR guys

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/2836688294.html
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:54 AM   #59708
Thanas
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Hi Guys,

I've been torn between a couple of options regarding wheels for my DR. Do i go for 17 inchers (SM) of 19/17.

I've placed a bit on a 2,50 x 19 front wheel from a Suzuki XF 650 Freewind. Hub, axle etc are all the same parts, so a direct bolt-in. Just need to flip the wheel, because on the XF the disc is on the right, as opposed to the left on the DR. Other option is to get a 2,15 x19 rim spoked to my original hub. Plan is to get a wider rim in the rear also, currently plan on going for 4,25 x 17, but first see what the current rim will do with the 19" front.

I really want to keep my original speedo. So have been doing some calculations.

I read somewhere that the stock DR speedo is overreads by some 9,34% or 8.54 % depending what you regard as 100% (speedo or true speed).

Anyway. Procycle sells a DR Supermoto speedo drive to use the stock speedo with 120/70-17 (SM) wheels. But does this mean the speedo still has the same error as stock? (approx 9%)

Because this would mean i could get the procycle SM speedo drive, use the 110/80-19 or 100/90-19 tires and the speedo would be just about spot on. that is, speedo speed = true speed, plus or minus a percent.

So the real question is, does anyone have the procycle speedo drive for SM wheels and know what the speedo error is?

And NO. i will NOT get a trailtech speedo (or any other brand). unless it is absolutely neccesary.

Thanks,
Thanas
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:04 AM   #59709
goodcat8
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Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 3,010
Thanus, I have a 19Fx17R. Love it.
Not sure why you object to aftermarket speedo's. I love my vapor.


First get out after much fiddling and what not. No complaints, other than I think I need a new chain.
Looking forward to hearing some reviews on the new acerbis tank, would love to pick up one of those.





















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Old 02-06-2012, 01:58 AM   #59710
PHILinFRANCE
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Hey Goodcat8
What tyres you running there mate, TKCs ???
Phil
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:20 AM   #59711
dirtkiwi
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Goodcat, great looking bike.....

Have been searching around for a light upgrade, what light set up is that one??
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:59 AM   #59712
cueldee
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Location: Townsville, North Queensland, Australia
Oddometer: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You made the panniers from used Real Estate signs?

Cool.
Just in case you were thinking of using Real Estate signs as a filler material I thought I'd better correct the error - I meant to say Corecell, not Coremat!. It comes in, I think, a 2mm thickness as well and the difference in stiffness when using it between two layers of fibreglass and just using more layers of glass is considerable. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:31 AM   #59713
Thanas
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Hi Guys,

Ebay is your pal.

SO today i transferred the money for the 2,50 x 19 front wheel from a XF 650. This is the complete wheel For 140 euro + 32 euro shipping cost. Total of 172 euro. (225 Dollar) SO way cheaper than getting a front wheel rebuild using my stock hub. All i need to do is get the speedo drive and swap my brake disc over to the other wheel. Bolt it in and go for a ride. Oh wait. New front tire.

Still to get:
Speedo drive
19" tube
110/80-19 Heidenau K60 Scout, to complement the rear, i like my tires matching, front and rear.

And to sell:
21" DR 650 SE complete front wheel
100/90-19 tire (anakee i believe) with tube
90/90-21 Heidenau K60 Scout/ approx 6000 km / 4000 miles. so as new... haha.

Still would like to now wether abybody knows the speedo error when using the procycle SM speedo drive. Perhaps i need to check with SMjunkie...

When the wheel arrives, i'll document the swap.

Best regards,
Thanas
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:06 AM   #59714
TeeVee
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Miami/Managua
Oddometer: 788
Victim of a homicidal taxi driver

so, from my hopsital bed in managua, nicaragua, just fillin y'all in. got cut off by a fuckin taxi on friday riding the DR went down and somehow broke my leg. 4 hours of surgery, 11 screws and 2 plates later, here i am in fuckin agony.



wear boots!!!!

helmet was toast. shudder to think of how fucked my head and face would've been if i had not worn it.

the DR fared perfectly. matter of fact, it kept running even after the fall. had to crawl over to it with my fibula sticking out and hit the kill switch. don't ask me why... my buddy says only damage is a tweaked set of handlebars.

lessons learned: avoid managua traffic at all costs. wear proper riding gear at all times. I own a set of gaerne G12's and would have walked the fuck away with some scrapes and a bruised ego if i had them on. instead, i'll be on my ass for 2+ months, had one surgery and will need a second. and despite what these folks say, i'm fairly certain i will have some lasting/permanent problems with my right ankle/leg. well, at least shifting won't be a problem! who uses the rear brake anyway?
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:26 AM   #59715
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtkiwi View Post
Goodcat, great looking bike.....

Have been searching around for a light upgrade, what light set up is that one??
looks like one of these:
http://www.bajadesigns.com/Products/...NCH_RACELIGHTS


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