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Old 02-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #60256
sagebrushocean
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
Oddometer: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Why not start with the braided SS brake hose first? If you think you need the 320mm rotor add it afterward.
I put on the front braided line (from TPI) today. What a difference! The OEM rubber hose whipped around like a snake on hot coals under hard braking, but the braided line doesn't move at all. Much better feel and control. Lifts the rear wheel easily, even with the stock rotor (and sticky Conti-Force SM tire up front). I'll ride this awhile and then decide whether to use the 320mm rotor or not.

I can't believe I waited this long to try a braided line. It fixed the only real complaint I had with my DR650 sm. The OEM rubber hose is probably fine for the dirt, but ss braid is the way to go for the street.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:31 PM   #60257
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilibizkit View Post
Can anyone confirm how may mils are needed of front fork oil for a stock 06.

I think my problem may be I am using pre 96 specs of 565ml and not the later which might be 440ml.

Anyone with a manual? Thanks.
The standard rule is to not go by how many mil you need but to just measure (with the fork tube bottomed in the lower slider)
6 1/2 inch from the top of the fork tube to the fluid level, you can use any method that works, ruler etc. the easiest way is to take 2 zip ties, slide one onto the other, you should have a T shaped plastic device to use, now cut one plastic zip tie end off to 6 1/2 inches, makes a nice little T that you can lay across the fork tube, then just pour fluid in the tube until it comes up to the end of the zip that you cut to 6 1/2 inches.

You will need 2 quarts of fluid, you will have some left over, probably a little over 1/2 quart, estimated, this is from my aging memory.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:34 PM   #60258
doug s.
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Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
I put on the front braided line (from TPI) today. What a difference! The OEM rubber hose whipped around like a snake on hot coals under hard braking, but the braided line doesn't move at all. Much better feel and control. Lifts the rear wheel easily, even with the stock rotor (and sticky Conti-Force SM tire up front). I'll ride this awhile and then decide whether to use the 320mm rotor or not.

I can't believe I waited this long to try a braided line. It fixed the only real complaint I had with my DR650 sm. The OEM rubber hose is probably fine for the dirt, but ss braid is the way to go for the street.
this is nice to hear! i will have to give it a try; may save me from going w/a larger rotor...

thanks,

doug s.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:36 PM   #60259
koh kood
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Koh Kood, Thailand
Oddometer: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilibizkit View Post
Can anyone confirm how may mils are needed of front fork oil for a stock 06.

I think my problem may be I am using pre 96 specs of 565ml and not the later which might be 440ml.

Anyone with a manual? Thanks.
The 96 and newer manual says 565 ml [19.1/19.9 US/Imp oz]
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:36 PM   #60260
chilibizkit
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Plainfield Ont.
Oddometer: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
The standard rule is to not go by how many mil you need but to just measure (with the fork tube bottomed in the lower slider)
6 1/2 inch from the top of the fork tube to the fluid level, you can use any method that works, ruler etc. the easiest way is to take 2 zip ties, slide one onto the other, you should have a T shaped plastic device to use, now cut one plastic zip tie end off to 6 1/2 inches, makes a nice little T that you can lay across the fork tube, then just pour fluid in the tube until it comes up to the end of the zip that you cut to 6 1/2 inches.

You will need 2 quarts of fluid, you will have some left over, probably a little over 1/2 quart, estimated, this is from my aging memory.
Thanks for that and to you as well Koh Kood as you confirmed what I found to be the spec for my 06 and it def does`nt work for my bike.

I`ll go with the zip tie method and go for the 6.5 air space rather than the recommended fluid level.
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:46 PM   #60261
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
I ran the stock muffler for years with the pumper carb. The GSXR holy grail muffler was purchased BY ME on ebay for $75 shipped. Once it graced the DR with a Kientech mid pipe I was pleasantly surprised at the new found top end.

Its well worth the trouble if you find one. Looks OEM. Its not overly loud, I get compliments from the rangers actually. Most of them ride too and at least some of them know what the muffler really is thanks to ADVrider, thumpertalk, drriders etc....

I haven't bothered with the spark arrestor since its an OEM baffled street muffler. I ride AL, GA, NC, VA, KY often. I don't mess with the ORV areas much though. Just forestry roads and etc.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:52 AM   #60262
Thanas
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Arnhem
Oddometer: 75
Hi All,

I'm going to replace my rear rim with a 4,25 x 17.

What i want to know is if the rim will be drilled specifically for the DR or if it is possible to lace a standard rim to the DR hub?

Getting a new Excel/ Morad/ Warp9 rim would be nice, but new prices can be a bit steep.

If it's possible to use a 2nd hand one, that would give me more options. Also a standard rim would be easier to find for a good price online.

I would do the lacing myself.

Best regards,
Thanas
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:47 AM   #60263
Tech23
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 468
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
I put on the front braided line (from TPI) today. What a difference! The OEM rubber hose whipped around like a snake on hot coals under hard braking, but the braided line doesn't move at all. Much better feel and control. Lifts the rear wheel easily, even with the stock rotor (and sticky Conti-Force SM tire up front). I'll ride this awhile and then decide whether to use the 320mm rotor or not.

I can't believe I waited this long to try a braided line. It fixed the only real complaint I had with my DR650 sm. The OEM rubber hose is probably fine for the dirt, but ss braid is the way to go for the street.
I was pretty sure you would find just a SS line to be a sufficient upgrade for your intended use. I see it frequently, DR's with a $300+ big rotor kit and the stock rubber hose. I feel like a $60-70 brake hose would have been a better starting point for most. My front brake lever is so firm now the only thing I wish I had is a reach adjustable shorty brake lever. I'm still working on that right now. The DR 650 master cylinder is also used on the LT R450 quadracer and several other Suzuki quads. ASV makes an adjustable reach lever for the quadracer but it lacks the ear that contacts the DR's brake light switch. I suppose in a worst case scenario I could use a brake pressure style switch. I would rather have a lever that's a bolt on without any further changes.

Tech23
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:50 AM   #60264
spanker
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: North Stonington, CT
Oddometer: 825
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobo1 View Post
Sell your motorcycles and get a bicycle problem solved, whats next? This is sad,we have a huge problem with men growing vagina's in America.
Guys with a mentality like yours are exactly why I call harleys "penis-extenders." Unlike you, I, and many others, give a shit about disturbing other people with loud bikes and keeping the DOT off our backs but you clearly missed that point, didn't you. The only thing that's sad here is your willingness to publicly articulate the idiocy of you comment.
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spanker screwed with this post 02-20-2012 at 04:03 AM
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:36 AM   #60265
Weldman
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Oddometer: 1,208
You've just said what I and a lot of others have been

thinking and would have said if we bothered to take the time to.
Gotta roar loudly to prove we don't have that "vagina" doncha' know ...

Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:09 AM   #60266
Speedo66
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What can you say about a guy who thinks a loud pipe somehow translates to his sexual organs?
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:51 AM   #60267
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Hi All,

I'm going to replace my rear rim with a 4,25 x 17.

What i want to know is if the rim will be drilled specifically for the DR or if it is possible to lace a standard rim to the DR hub?

Getting a new Excel/ Morad/ Warp9 rim would be nice, but new prices can be a bit steep.

If it's possible to use a 2nd hand one, that would give me more options. Also a standard rim would be easier to find for a good price online.

I would do the lacing myself.

Best regards,
Thanas
On the DR rear wheel the left side spokes run at different angles than the right side. That is because the cush drive makes the left side on the hub bigger in diameter. To have a properly laced wheel that is safe and strong the holes in the rim must be drilled at the correct angles for each side of the hub. If you build a DR rear wheel with a rim that is not drilled to match the spokes will have to bend instead of making a nice straight connection. A rim built this way is not strong or safe.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:14 AM   #60268
Thanas
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Arnhem
Oddometer: 75
Hi Procycle,

Thanks, just what i (didn't) want to hear,

I'm not planning on doeing any FMX style jumps, but do like to have my technical bits be technically sound. So just have to get it correctly done by a wheel builder. So be it.

Thanks,
Thanas
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:23 AM   #60269
badactor101
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Maine, middle of the mitten
Oddometer: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
thinking and would have said if we bothered to take the time to.
Gotta roar loudly to prove we don't have that "vagina" doncha' know ...
Reportedly by Betty White:

“Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding”
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:38 AM   #60270
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,209
Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
For myself, the stock DR exhaust has a more than satisfying sounding exhaust note, exiting through a substantive sized outlet, it's constructed of stainless steel and anchored via an oem rubber mount.
With my Kientech modded airbox / Jesse tweaked DynaJet kit, it pulls 16/42 roadie gearing like a bear and gets great mileage.

Count me amongst those, more than satisfied with the stock exhaust system !

And if I want substantive weight savings, I'll skip desserts...

996DL
+1 I feel the same way about this. Of course those who spend a lot on upgrading their motorcycle will think the results are really worth what they spent. To each their own. I'll pocket the extra costs others are spending to buy new carbs, louder mufflers, new forks, expensive suspension mods, new lighting systems, new wheels, etc. and use it to ride more.
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