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Old 03-10-2012, 05:57 AM   #61051
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Thread locker works fine on the NSU screws. No need to get complicated. Ok maybe add some star washers...

Don't crank down on them too much either, the sending unit is plastic. I recommend the Permatex Blue Gel threadlocker.

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-10-2012 at 06:29 AM
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:00 AM   #61052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Installing the IMS tank now and have a question on the vent line. I bought the locking vented cap from Procycle so I don't need to connect the vent hose to the cap. What do I do with the vent hose? Does it get capped off?

Cap it off at the source.

Or put a bolt in it coverd in RTV and fold it over with a zip tie if you want...

The locking cap sucked on my bike, keep us posted on how well the cap vents and if it dumps fuel all over the tank. Mine did / does.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:04 AM   #61053
ride4321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Cap it off at the source.

Or put a bolt in it coverd in RTV and fold it over with a zip tie if you want...

The locking cap sucked on my bike, keep us posted on how well the cap vents and if it dumps fuel all over the tank. Mine did / does.
Thanks, that's what i was thinking. Just wanted to make sure.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:06 AM   #61054
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrell caesar View Post
SO I forgot the flat slide carb ! Dropped needle all the way down to get 45mpg with open air box. Oh it's got power tambien.

I usually get 50 to 51 mpg with a TM40 while riding briskly and 47 mpg if I'm flogging it. Dropping the needle way down does not sound right.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:51 AM   #61055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Cap it off at the source.

Or put a bolt in it coverd in RTV and fold it over with a zip tie if you want...

The locking cap sucked on my bike, keep us posted on how well the cap vents and if it dumps fuel all over the tank. Mine did / does.
My IMS came with a nice cap for the carb vacuum port. I used the "vent" line to drain my stocker on prime, into the IMS.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:54 AM   #61056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I usually get 50 to 51 mpg with a TM40 while riding briskly and 47 mpg if I'm flogging it. Dropping the needle way down does not sound right.
Are you running the 150 main, I was trying to take it easy to see what mileage I could get, and only got 46mpg, it was very windy out though. Thought about trying the 145
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:10 AM   #61057
ShadyRascal
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If you are in Missouri you have thicker air than I do here at 3800 feet. I run a 150 main, and with my opened airbox and GSXR can, I could go to a 155 (dynojet). So I'd say don't go below the 150 before checking other things...

If your mileage is bad, it's probably a needle position issue. Main jet size really doesn't come into play that much unless you're at wide open throttle. Needle position determines your fuel-air mixture during 90% of your riding. Changing the main jet to affect this is chasing it kind of from the wrong end.

When I first installed my DJ kit, going by the instructions, it was very fat and got terrible mileage. I stepped it back until I had the 150 main and the needle clip 2nd position from the top. I have great power and get over 50 mpg all the time, 58-ish if I'm pretty nice to it.

Time spent carb tuning and learning is the best thing you can do for your bike.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:20 AM   #61058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadyRascal View Post
If you are in Missouri you have thicker air than I do here at 3800 feet. I run a 150 main, and with my opened airbox and GSXR can, I could go to a 155 (dynojet). So I'd say don't go below the 150 before checking other things...

If your mileage is bad, it's probably a needle position issue. Main jet size really doesn't come into play that much unless you're at wide open throttle. Needle position determines your fuel-air mixture during 90% of your riding. Changing the main jet to affect this is chasing it kind of from the wrong end.

When I first installed my DJ kit, going by the instructions, it was very fat and got terrible mileage. I stepped it back until I had the 150 main and the needle clip 2nd position from the top. I have great power and get over 50 mpg all the time, 58-ish if I'm pretty nice to it.

Time spent carb tuning and learning is the best thing you can do for your bike.
Thanks, the TM40 comes with the needle at the 3rd notch, so I'll try the 2nd, next time I have the tank off
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:23 AM   #61059
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Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
About to do my NSU screws. I ordered these M5 x 16 x .8 pitch:



An inmate alerted me to this possibility. Are 18-8 stainless steel NSU screws OK? Or do we need to worry about galvanic reaction? I assume they thread into aluminum.

If I hadn't already spent $13 for 2 screws (had to buy 50, + shipping), I'd switch to steel screws, but I'd prefer to use these if stainless steel is fine.

Based on some limited Googling, it seems an electrolyte such as salt is needed for the reaction, so in an enclosed, bathed in oil environment, maybe galvanic reaction not an issue?

Anecdotal evidence such as "I used stainless and my bike still runs" isn't terribly helpful. I am hoping for something a bit more scientific.

Thanks in advance.

Jon
You should be fine, bathed in oil, sealed from the elements.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:24 AM   #61060
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
Are you running the 150 main, I was trying to take it easy to see what mileage I could get, and only got 46mpg, it was very windy out though. Thought about trying the 145
Yes 150 main, 3 on the needle I think. Its where Procycle sets it.

145 main is too lean for me. Needle position is the mpg effector.

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:26 AM   #61061
ride4321
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Got the IMS tank on this morning and it seems to be running fine and not leaking. The yellow isn't a very good match but maybe the original plastic is fading. It does match the hand guards.

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:30 AM   #61062
Motodeficient
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Anyone know if a DRZ400SM sidestand would work for a DR650 supermoto conversion?

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:38 AM   #61063
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Thread locker works fine on the NSU screws. No need to get complicated. Ok maybe add some star washers...

Don't crank down on them too much either, the sending unit is plastic. I recommend the Permatex Blue Gel threadlocker.
Not getting complicated. We all dislike the soft, Phillips (or Japanese variant that doesn't quite align perfectly with a #2 Phillips) screws.

I prefer hex socket (Allen) bolts because they don't strip easily, and I don't plan to remove the clutch, so a ball-end hex key will let me tighten them without damaging the heads.

I plan to use blue lock-tite and inside star-type washers (the bolts I ordered are 1mm longer than stock).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
You should be fine, bathed in oil, sealed from the elements.
I think so too, based on my definitely not-expert research. Hopefully someone knows some metallurgy and can confirm whether galvanic reaction is likely inside the case.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:41 AM   #61064
Motodeficient
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Removing the clutch was super easy even for a n00b like me and literally added about 5 minutes to the job, made replacing the screws much easier.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:43 AM   #61065
ram1000
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This concern for these screws loosening is getting past reality. Locktight the things nothing else is necessary if even that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
About to do my NSU screws. I ordered these M5 x 16 x .8 pitch:



An inmate alerted me to this possibility. Are 18-8 stainless steel NSU screws OK? Or do we need to worry about galvanic reaction? I assume they thread into aluminum.

If I hadn't already spent $13 for 2 screws (had to buy 50, + shipping), I'd switch to steel screws, but I'd prefer to use these if stainless steel is fine.

Based on some limited Googling, it seems an electrolyte such as salt is needed for the reaction, so in an enclosed, bathed in oil environment, maybe galvanic reaction not an issue?

Anecdotal evidence such as "I used stainless and my bike still runs" isn't terribly helpful. I am hoping for something a bit more scientific.

Thanks in advance.

Jon
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