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Old 03-11-2012, 11:43 AM   #61171
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
You think it was worth doing in lieu of rebuilding the internals of the DR? I know it has a wider tubes, but the brakes are smaller etc..
Certainly a matter for debate. Many DR riders have swapped forks with good results. But as you found out ... there are often little "gotcha's" in the process.

If you read my earlier post ... I think I mentioned this.

To answer your question here, IMHO, it really depends how much serious off road you intend to ride ... and at what pace. If you are a "B" (motocross intermediate) better dirt rider and ride aggressively and can attack a trail and make it through Black Diamond sections ... them, IMO, you need better forks ... but don't forget the shock too.

If your riding is more moderate and lots of street riding is mixed in, then upgrading the stock forks, IMO, works pretty well .... if done right. With Emulators, the correct springs, oil weight and oil height, the stock forks are not too bad for mild off road. Really depends what's in your budget and your overall riding needs.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:49 AM   #61172
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotterpin View Post
Hi ADV,

My '06 DR 650's in storage and I can't get to it to measure up the footpeg bolts. Noted this mod on Mbikin 4. I'm in a country where I can get these made up real cheap so want to get a few to bring home to Oz.

Can anyone help with a centre to centre distance between the footpeg bolts and also the outside diameter of the bolts?

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Old 03-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #61173
sagedrifter
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I thought that surging could come from removing the air box cover? My bike didn't like the side cover off. I hate surging.

My bst would surge at 55 with the needle at 3, at 4 it was surge free above 45 mph. I also liked the slide in stock form better. I remember running without the slide cover on and the bike would surge from blowing wind... Good ole vac carbs.

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Old 03-11-2012, 12:10 PM   #61174
badactor101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Quarter inch plate? That is a great mod! One inch drop for cheap!
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:33 PM   #61175
upsman
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Surging/ airbox tapeing question

Just moved the needle or the clip 2 spots down, i guess the last time i was in there i went the wrong way, its seems pretty good now. thanks for all the help. Greg
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:45 PM   #61176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badactor101 View Post
Quarter inch plate? That is a great mod! One inch drop for cheap!
I made mine out of 3/8" (10mm). 1/4" seems too thin.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:55 PM   #61177
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badactor101 View Post
Quarter inch plate? That is a great mod! One inch drop for cheap!
10mm will survive the hits without bending or breaking...

The 10mm bolts to the frame should not be stainless. Something with a little more shear strength is needed.

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Old 03-11-2012, 01:29 PM   #61178
LexTalionis
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I purchased this product through eBay from a fellow Canadian DR rider who occasionally posts here, "Tree." More like 3/8" thick, but I'm unsure of that. I am certain that pushing the footpegs outboard was the equal to lowering the footpegs, comfort-wise.

Lex

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Old 03-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #61179
rutsthematter
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You can buy them in oz

http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.co...ing_plate.html
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:10 PM   #61180
sagedrifter
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I still rather not have my pegs below the skid plate. I would do damage to those plates in short order. It would suck riding home with a torn off peg or two.

You can shorten the stock pegs or get the Procycle offering, no set back, but they don't hang down.

Adam on his Short Way Round blog actually bent the mounting point on the frame. I run loaded and I'm fairly fat so I was concerned this could happen to me:



The blog.... a good read if your not aware of it: http://shortwayround.co.uk/2011/12/2...ano/#more-1622

sagedrifter screwed with this post 03-11-2012 at 03:26 PM
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:27 PM   #61181
SkunkWizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badactor101 View Post
Quarter inch plate? That is a great mod! One inch drop for cheap!
cheaper
cut-n-weld


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Old 03-11-2012, 05:01 PM   #61182
bkoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Lockwire + threadlock is "getting past reality".
Threadlock is all that's needed.
+1 !!!!!!!!!

Clean the bolt and bolt hole spotless with a cleaner that does not leave a film. Loctite with 242 or preferably 243 and the most important: Let it cure without oil or running the engine for 24hrs. And if you want to do a professional job use a Loctite primer on the nut and bolt hole.

With lock wire you are introducing something else that can fall in the engine. DR's vibrate, this takes its toll on the wire. And the correct wire must be used or its a waste of time. And proper lockwire procedure is a must. I have seen a couple examples of lock wired bolts on here that are doing nothing at all to keep the bolt tight. Correct lock wiring takes a lot of skill and practice.

IMHO lock wire is more of a visual indicator of bolt failure than anything. Look at the industries that readily employ lock wiring: aircraft, mining, oilfield etc. All industries that require constant inspections and tear downs. Not so much with a DR clutch.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:49 PM   #61183
Merkur Man
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Location: Oxford Alabama.
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Center stand.

Sorry,
This question is for Shu. His post is showing the picture of his bike on the center stand.

Where did you get your center stand and how does it work? Are there any interference issues with the stock side stand?
I'm thinking about getting one for my 06 model.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by TaZ9 View Post
Using Slime or other types of tire goo can be more trouble than it's worth, especially with dual sport motorcycles.
Even with a simple puncture, getting a good seal on a patch is very difficult when the tube has goo in it. The other problem is that even if you put in a fresh tube, the excess tire goo needs to be wiped from the inside of the tire where it leaked from the tube. Many dual sport bikes don't have rim locks, and excessive goo could cause your repaired tube and tire to slip on the rim and tear at the valve stem. This is especially true when running lower tire pressures off road.

I too carry a good quality patch kit, but also have a fresh front and rear tube as a backup. Nothing worse than
fixing a flat on the trail and then have it fail a fews miles later. You would be surprised at the number of riders on this site that have never changed a tire. I live in Colorado and often ride by myself. Knowing how to correctly change a tire is essential to surviving in the back country. Remember the saying, "You can ride further in an hour than you can walk out of in a day!"

Ride Safe,

Taz9

Merkur Man screwed with this post 03-11-2012 at 06:56 PM Reason: Wrong post.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:55 PM   #61184
TaZ9
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Sagedrifter has a good point...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I still rather not have my pegs below the skid plate. I would do damage to those plates in short order. It would suck riding home with a torn off peg or two.

You can shorten the stock pegs or get the Procycle offering, no set back, but they don't hang down.

Adam on his Short Way Round blog actually bent the mounting point on the frame. I run loaded and I'm fairly fat so I was concerned this could happen to me:



The blog.... a good read if your not aware of it: http://shortwayround.co.uk/2011/12/2...ano/#more-1622
While this lowering plate design might work OK for highway use, it has obvious potential for damage to both motorcycle and rider if used off road. The purpose of a good skid plate is not only to deflect rocks and debris away from the motor, it acts as a smooth platform to keep the underside of the motorcycle from hanging up on large rocks, tree limbs, etc. With the lowering plate, the foot pegs become protruding anchors just waiting to jam against a large rock or other obstacle.

This would especially be a problem in areas like here in Colorado or Moab where we have very large rocks and stair step ledges to contend with. At slow speeds it could result in a minor get off. At faster speeds? Use your imagination.

I personally had my stock pegs lowered as in the photo submitted by SkunkWizard. They work great.

A good design takes into account both comfort and safety. Choose wisely!

Taz9

TaZ9 screwed with this post 03-11-2012 at 06:59 PM Reason: corrected grammer
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:37 PM   #61185
Nibis
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Really sucks when the foot peg frame mounts get bent
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