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Old 03-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #61171
TimCC
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Location: Madison, WI
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Hello everyone, I've recently joined the DR650 family. I bought this beast off of craigslist this winter.



It's a 2001 with a pumper carb, modified airbox, and two brothers m7 muffler. The guy I bought it from was the second owner and didn't know it's history and was even less mechanically inclined than I. I replaced the headlight and redid a lot of the wiring up front. It has a Vapor tach so the mileage is unknown, he claimed it was about 11,000. Most of the issues I have found are minor and I'm working on a list of farkles that I want. Last night when I took off the sprocket cover to identify the countershaft sprocket I found this damage to the swingarm.



The chain has worn thru the slider and has eaten into the swingarm. It looks like it is caused by a combination of too tight chain tension and excessive seat loading. The question I have, how much of a worry is this? Will it fail as soon as I take it off road, or do I just monitor it for cracking and keep riding?
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:51 AM   #61172
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimCC View Post
Hello everyone, I've recently joined the DR650 family. I bought this beast off of craigslist this winter.



It's a 2001 with a pumper carb, modified airbox, and two brothers m7 muffler. The guy I bought it from was the second owner and didn't know it's history and was even less mechanically inclined than I. I replaced the headlight and redid a lot of the wiring up front. It has a Vapor tach so the mileage is unknown, he claimed it was about 11,000. Most of the issues I have found are minor and I'm working on a list of farkles that I want. Last night when I took off the sprocket cover to identify the countershaft sprocket I found this damage to the swingarm.



The chain has worn thru the slider and has eaten into the swingarm. It looks like it is caused by a combination of too tight chain tension and excessive seat loading. The question I have, how much of a worry is this? Will it fail as soon as I take it off road, or do I just monitor it for cracking and keep riding?

It looks too far gone IMO. Pull the chain slide off and take a closer look. I would guess that is the original chain slide guard and it probably has more than 11,000 miles on it. On my bike the guard went 17K before it got too thin. You will probably want to have that swing arm replaced. I've seen a few on Ebay. Its a good idea to remove that top chain roller before it gets ripped off. Most guys remove that sucker when teh bike is new, I did.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:17 AM   #61173
TimCC
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Thank you for the fast reply sagedrifter. I'll take care of both the swingarm and the roller. Just moved to the top of the list of improvements / modifications. I picked it up for $1700, for that price I don't mind doing some work. I have until April14 to get her trail ready.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:30 AM   #61174
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Originally Posted by TimCC View Post
Thank you for the fast reply sagedrifter. I'll take care of both the swingarm and the roller. Just moved to the top of the list of improvements / modifications. I picked it up for $1700, for that price I don't mind doing some work. I have until April14 to get her trail ready.

Be sure a check the valves soon if you haven't already. Its very easy to do.

That chain is not stock, so it most likley has much more than 11K on it. The stock DID chain usually will last very well past 11K. When you add in the worn through swing arm, I would guess its around 20K, probably more. But thats a wild guess, that swing arm has been chewed on for a while. The grooves look deep.

Hopefully a swing arm can be found cheap. Might be a good time for a new rear shock or a less used one. Projects are fun, used bikes are full of surprises sometimes.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:21 AM   #61175
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Yeah, it took 17,000 miles for my swingarm rubber protector to get warn down just enough to make SLIGHT grooves in the swingarm. Unless there was something seriously wrong with chain tension or something, I would guess that the bike has more than 11,000 miles. I don't understand why people who get a Trailtech Vapor don't program the original mileage into it. But, I guess if you don't surf the net much you might not know that is possible since it doesn't state it in the vapor manual.

That sprocket looks pretty new though, so the chain and sprocket were probably replaced pretty recently.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #61176
fizzerfz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimCC View Post
Hello everyone, I've recently joined the DR650 family. I bought this beast off of craigslist this winter.



I replaced the headlight and redid a lot of the wiring up front...
Could you post some details and your thoughts on the headlight setup?
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:42 AM   #61177
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Your chain clip is on backwards...
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #61178
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Good eye, definitely want to change that soon.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:44 AM   #61179
TimCC
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I found a swingarm on ebay and put in a bid. A shock replacement would be nice, but probably won't be in my budget until mid-summer. I cranked up the preload to a hair over manual recommended max. It's still way too soft for me. 6'2" 260#

I checked the valves and found them to be in spec. I'm still getting a lot of backfiring thru the pipes and the header will glow red if I idle it too long. I've read that both are fairly common and not too much to worry about. I'm tinkering with the TM40 to see if I can minimize them.

That headlight is an acerbis. I think that the intent is to meet the minimum requirements to have your dirt bike road legal. It sure didn't do it's job of putting out enough light to drive by at night. I've replaced it with the Moose 'Road Warrior' light. https://www.denniskirk.com/moose/whi...prd/214833.sku
Still not bright enough, but better. I'm going to save up and install some of those high output LED lights.

I think this weekend I'm going to drain the oil and check the neutral sending unit screws.

O! hadn't notice the chain clip. Thanks Feelers. I think the DR is parked until the swingarm is replaced. I'll get the chain sorted out when putting everything back together.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:49 AM   #61180
Motodeficient
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Damn, heres a nice one, probably the one you made an offer on. Good price too. Even comes with the swingarm buffer that you need anyway, which costs $30 by itself for a new one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-DR650...#ht_1233wt_951
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:53 AM   #61181
TimCC
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That's the one, I put in an offer for a little less. If he doesn't take it, I'll pay what he's asking. It looks like a great deal.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:01 PM   #61182
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Hi Guys,

As said, i'm busy converting my DR to 19/ 17 wheels. Frotn is done, just waiting on the rear to be sent to my house. This weekend i received my new Continental TKC80's, s mounted up the front. The tires are new, just have been sitting in a dark garage for a few years. Only thing is... Made in Korea. I've heard some complaints about the TKC80's that were manufctured in Korea. Oh well..

So my NEW front HEidenau K60 Scout is up for sale, only used for 220 km, 1 tank of fuel.. haha. Ah well.
Greets,
Thanas
By most accounts Korea produce good quality tires. Shinko are made there ... at the former Yokohama factory. My TKC80 rear tire (Korea), wearing quite well, but only 5000 kms. on it so far. They are mounted on my 2nd set of wheels, so not much use. I wonder if ALL Continental tires are now made in Korea? Anyone?
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #61183
sagedrifter
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
By most accounts Korea produce good quality tires. Shinko are made there ... at the former Yokohama factory. My TKC80 rear tire (Korea), wearing quite well, but only 5000 kms. on it so far. They are mounted on my 2nd set of wheels, so not much use. I wonder if ALL Continental tires are now made in Korea? Anyone?

My TKC's were both Korean, I don't like spending the money on them since trying the Shink 700's though...
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:27 PM   #61184
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
My TKC's were both Korean, I don't like spending the money on them since trying the Shink 700's though...
I agree, The 700's rock. Much better tire than I've seen in a while. Although those 244's are even less and fast becoming the tire of choice for DS bikes here in the PNW. Gave up on the 606 finally. 2.5 years and 17 rear 606's (4 of which came apart within the first 50 miles, tread or knobby detached or split in 2), 53K on bike (bought new in 2010). Dunlop would not do a thing except say ship them back at your cost and we will determine if it is our fault. Very Very poor customer service. So out with them. Go Shinko.....
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #61185
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimCC View Post
I found a swingarm on ebay and put in a bid. A shock replacement would be nice, but probably won't be in my budget until mid-summer. I cranked up the preload to a hair over manual recommended max. It's still way too soft for me. 6'2" 260#

I checked the valves and found them to be in spec. I'm still getting a lot of backfiring thru the pipes and the header will glow red if I idle it too long. I've read that both are fairly common and not too much to worry about. I'm tinkering with the TM40 to see if I can minimize them.

That headlight is an acerbis. I think that the intent is to meet the minimum requirements to have your dirt bike road legal. It sure didn't do it's job of putting out enough light to drive by at night. I've replaced it with the Moose 'Road Warrior' light. https://www.denniskirk.com/moose/whi...prd/214833.sku
Still not bright enough, but better. I'm going to save up and install some of those high output LED lights.

I think this weekend I'm going to drain the oil and check the neutral sending unit screws.

O! hadn't notice the chain clip. Thanks Feelers. I think the DR is parked until the swingarm is replaced. I'll get the chain sorted out when putting everything back together.
I run the TM40 about 2 turns out on the pilot screw running cheap off brand fuel I get without the extra ethanol. If I get loud pops I know its time to clean or replace the pilot jet. I actually try to fill up at the same gas station since I have to adjust my idle every time I change stations here.

My bike kept dying after I filled up at one place, I thought some thing was wrong till I remembered I changed brands again. I think its the ethanol ratio, my bike runs best on the non-ethanol off brand stuff I get in Weaver AL. When I'm on the local Shell or BP ethanol gas I need another 1/2 turn out on the pilot screw and one turn out on the idle screw. Other wise it coughs at idle and will die if its not fully warmed up.

I go buy fuel at the Hi-Tech or the No name place and I have to lower the idle back down since that fuel doesn't have much ethanol in it. Its amazing how much better the bike runs on the local no name gas. Its the corner gas station with two pumps thats the best.

I've been draining my carb when I'm not going to ride a few days and it helps 100%. After two years of shutting the fuel off as I pull in my long driveway the jets still look shiny. I also use marine stabil when I let the bike sit.
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