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Old 03-18-2012, 07:22 AM   #61516
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You ride a DR650? What happened? Did your Husky blow up!
Welcome to the Slums.

I do agree with your review of fuel tanks. See my above post. Acerbis just look better. I'd pay extra for that. The DR already looks like a Soviet era
Ural copy with the IMS on. Anything to dress it up a little to me is worth it.

I don't find the DR650 all that heavy. Even with bags on and a full tank. The 690 KTM is not all that much lighter. Faster? Yes, but it's no featherweight with the big tank and luggage.
Never had a Husky. I've got 7 bikes currently, picked up the DR a few months ago. The 690 is deceptively light, mainly due to the gas tank being under the seat. It weighs a few more pounds then a WR250R but when you ride them back to back, the WR "feels" heavier. BTW, the '08 690 has 25K miles on it, and is still going strong, the '06 DR only has 10K.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:53 AM   #61517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
thanks sagedrifter, i figured it had be one of those but being a bit of a noob at mechanics thought i might have been overlooking something.

it was the o-rings, turns out they were shot on both carbies. they looked ok but weren't fitting snugly in their recesses.
I've replaced the o-rings twice in my carbs since 2007. I guess it's the ethanol. I run my atv and lawn equipment off straight gas and haven't replaced o-rings in a long time, one bowl seal went bad after 15 years. The bikes need attention more often. I just replaced the bowl seal on my TM40. Even the the o-ring on the sump bolt was falling apart. Its been 4 years though.

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Old 03-18-2012, 08:02 AM   #61518
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Shoulder goes in. The flat side is were the retainer fastens too. That's the way its been from day one on my bike.

If you want to put it on backwards, go for it. It doesn't matter much, it will still work. The drive line is not perfectly straight anyway. If you want it to be more flexible, run the clip, many do.

Nothing to worry about. Many of us have ran 520 set ups for many miles.






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Old 03-18-2012, 09:19 AM   #61519
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Chain Adjustment

All this posting about sprocket inside/outside and chain alignment got me thinking, which can be dangerous. Many mentions have been made in past postings that the snail chain adjusters may cause misalignment of the rear wheel. I checked this on my previous DR with a tool sold by KTM, a large set of dividers that measure from the center of the swing arm shaft to the center of the rear axle. On that bike it checked out to be parallel to within a few thousands. Use to measure this with a tape measure before finding the KTM tool. My idea/question now is why not grind off the indentations on the snail adjusters so that they would be micro adjustable? I didn't like before that one notch the chain was looser than I liked and the next was tighter than I wanted. A month from now I will be starting the build of my DR650 travel/adventure bike. First time I remove the rear wheel I think I will do the grinding on the snail adjusters.

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Old 03-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #61520
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Not a bad idea at all. I know both my adjusters were on the same number and the wheel was off by a bit - crabbing off to the right while going straight ( I could turn left like crazy!!! )

Never recognized it until another rider pointed it out. I use the Motion Pro chain alignment tool which seems to work for me.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:03 AM   #61521
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Counter Shaft Sprocket with 520 Chain

I read this here a few days ago (weeks?) and it sounded right. I'll never find that post so this is what I remember. When using a 520 rear sprocket, it's 1/16" more narrow; so the chain is closer to the rear hub by that 1/16". With a 520 chain, the counter shaft sprocket should be mounted shoulder out, moving the CSS 1/16" toward the engine.

Using the CSS clip allows the sprocket to float on the shaft, self centering. It will tell you how it's aligning. Mine was two clicks off, pulling the sprocket towards the engine. I marked the snails with a felt tip to help when reinstalling the rear wheel. I'm satisfied with the results and have gone back to the stock CSS retainer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
thanks sagedrifter, i figured it had be one of those but being a bit of a noob at mechanics thought i might have been overlooking something.

it was the o-rings, turns out they were shot on both carbies. they looked ok but weren't fitting snugly in their recesses.
Thanks for the follow-up, I'm surprised the o-rings died that quickly.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:36 AM   #61522
AST236
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My latest 'adventure' ride

Actually, my latest adventure involved riding from Evergreen to the WhataBurger in Brewton for lunch. Wifey (She Who Shops) and daughter (She Who Is Growing Up Way Too Fast And Going To The Prom) are in B'ham shopping for a prom dress and singlehandedly pumping enough money into the local economy to raise the unemployment rate, so I'm alone w/ my thoughts and my bikes.

Those w/ long memories and a love of mindless trivia will remember that I bought at R1150GS last summer, announcing that I wanted to get to one bike to do it all. Fail! Sold the Beemer and bought a VFR750 and a DR650 for what I had in the GS.

Moto life is now more better (apologies to my English Major friends). The VFR is a better street bike and the DR is a better dualsport bike.

Impressions on the '98 DR? Slightly smoother engine than my last XR650L. Seat is marginally more comfortable. Instead of feeling like I"m riding on a 2X4 turned on edge, now it's like I'm on the wide part of the board. Plenty of torque for around town and pretty comfortable on the road at 60-65 mph (I think it's down one tooth from stock on the countershaft sprocket). Filled up when I got back at it took 1.028 gallons to go 57 miles. Can't complain about that. Virtually no wind protection, but the wind that hits me is clean w/ no helmet buffeting. Acutally much more comfortable and much quieter than on the GS, even w/ the addition of the $100 Tobinators on the GS windscreen. Don't much care for the Kenda's that whine like four wheel drive monster truck tires, but they'll be fine for a while. Will probably go w/ the Pirelli AT90 Scorpions like I had on my last XRL.

Anyway, that's my 'adventure' ride report for the day. Will now sit back and watch the rest of the NASCAR race from Bristol and start making a list of things to put on the DR after I get back to work.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:00 PM   #61523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
thanks jeff.
i realized the shoulder area is the part that extends out from the sprocket.
i'm almost 100% sure that the old PBI had a bevel on the output shaft interface area and thus made less contact on that shaft.
sound like they've changed the design & that is a good thing.
I posted this in 2008: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/593...1#entry5781977

I just went out and took some pics of stock vs PBI. Both sprockets measure .395 thick. The PBI is .305 thick where it wears on the countershaft. I wonder why PBI puts this bevel on the retainer side? All I know is the one I had on in 2008 wore the crap out of my countershaft.

Stock


PBI



Stock on left



Engine side, stock on left



Stock on left

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Old 03-18-2012, 01:14 PM   #61524
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yes, i knew i remembered that. thanks for the visual.

anyone with a new PBI, that is bevel is not there correct?
they fixed the problem?

if it's still there then stay away. hopefully they fixed it.
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:19 PM   #61525
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
All this posting about sprocket inside/outside and chain alignment got me thinking, which can be dangerous. Many mentions have been made in past postings that the snail chain adjusters may cause misalignment of the rear wheel. I checked this on my previous DR with a tool sold by KTM, a large set of dividers that measure from the center of the swing arm shaft to the center of the rear axle. On that bike it checked out to be parallel to within a few thousands. Use to measure this with a tape measure before finding the KTM tool. My idea/question now is why not grind off the indentations on the snail adjusters so that they would be micro adjustable? I didn't like before that one notch the chain was looser than I liked and the next was tighter than I wanted. A month from now I will be starting the build of my DR650 travel/adventure bike. First time I remove the rear wheel I think I will do the grinding on the snail adjusters.

TravelGuy
i only use this tool, not the numbers for alignment
http://pitposse.com/chalto.html
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:27 PM   #61526
joefromsf
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Thumb Lower Shock Mount Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Unfortunately, I have bigger problems now. I just stripped the lower shock mount. I knew the specified torque of 55nm in the manual was wrong and had a note in the manual to use 37nm but that still over did it.
Well my weekend is ending on a better note than it started. I just finished repairing the threads on the lower mounting hole of my rear shock, and am very happy with the results.

First I was extremely lucky to already have a Time-Sert thread repair kit specifically for M10x1.25 threads, and the required tools. Pictured below, Time-Sert kit, tap wrench, tapping guide and cutting fluid. Note the tapping guide is extremely important as it helps keep the tool straight while drilling out and tapping the new hole.



Here's a close-up of the new thread insert that I used. I was concerned because it is 16mm long and the metal to be repaired was only 6mm thick.



Here is what it looks like loose fitted into the overbored and threaded hole:



I was trying to decide whether to cut/file the protruding section down after install or leave it that way as clearance would not be an issue. But then I wondered if those outer threads would be compatible with an M12 nut. Wow, perfect fit. Even better, the nut was 10mm thick so I still had a full 6mm that would be engaged in the shock.



After installing with red-loctite and press fitting the insert.



I was afraid of me forgetting or subsequent owner not knowing that the nut is fixed and not meant to be removed with a wrench like all of the other suspension bolts/nuts, so I applied some JB weld to it.



And a little yellow nail polish. Note that there is plenty of clearance.



Like I said, I am totally happy with this fix and don't think I'll need to send it off for repairs. I was even able to to all the work with the shock still mounted in the bike.
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:32 PM   #61527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Couple things. I've had IMS, Clarke and Acerbis tanks. Acerbis is easily the best of the bunch. I've never had an issue with the dual petcock setup, they just work. It's so much easier not having to bother finding a place you can lean that big pig of a bike over to get at the fuel much less laying it on it's side if you're stuck someplace flat. While I can't imagine why you feel you need to have that other lobe as another reserve, all you have to do is simply shut the petcock off on that side and you have the same situation as with the IMS. The IMS quality is just plain inferior to Acerbis. For $10 more the Acerbis is easily a winner hands down just based on the better quality. Now if I already owned an IMS then different story. I'd just keep the IMS. But luckily I haven't got around to getting a bigger tank till now, so I just ordered the Acerbis.
my IMS tank now hold 5.3 G after expansion (i'm sure the Acerbis will expand too). i've drained my IMS to the point of running out of gas and there was litterally a drible of fuel in the tank so this tells me the all the gas was getting over from the right side to the left and the petcock. i never once did tip the bike to the left just. thought i would need to but it all drained by itself.

for the same price i do know acerbis makes a better quality tank and it will expand some more too, especially if you use a locking cap as it does not vent out and heat expands the fuel. i have an acerbis locking cap on my ims and the hand feels hard at times (thus the expanding). i crack it open from time to time when riding in hot weather. i did have some concern that world put too much pressure on the tank itself or push air out the floatbowl valve (maybe it does), but after 2 years i've had no issues with the locking cap on an IMS tank.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:04 PM   #61528
jon_l
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I find it odd to have inside-threaded end on the front axle:


DR650 front axle

At first I thought I was missing something, but Wifey's Sherpa looks the same. Is something missing? If not, does anyone know the purpose of the threaded hole? It holds dirt, seems like it should have a screw in it.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:10 PM   #61529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
yes, i knew i remembered that. thanks for the visual.

anyone with a new PBI, that is bevel is not there correct?
they fixed the problem?

if it's still there then stay away. hopefully they fixed it.
Eakins - this is the 14T I am about to install, bought from Procycle in November.


PBI sprocket 001


PBI sprocket 002

I am waiting for Jeff to advise before I install it, since the collective are not unanimous regarding which way the raised shoulder is supposed to go.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:21 PM   #61530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I find it odd to have inside-threaded end on the front axle:


DR650 front axle

At first I thought I was missing something, but Wifey's Sherpa looks the same. Is something missing? If not, does anyone know the purpose of the threaded hole? It holds dirt, seems like it should have a screw in it.
It's probably used in the machining process on the lathe
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