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Old 03-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #61516
B1
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Location: Arse-trailer
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DR carbie gurus? airbox full of fuel!

bike stopped running yesterday. found the airbox full of fuel. drained and attempted repairs, eventually got home keeping the bike above half throttle the whole way (assumed it was then burning fuel faster than it could overflow).

pull carbie apart, disassemble and clean, check float level, rubber seals for the float assembly, float and action, reinstall, and have the same problem.
i have a spare carbie, so checked all the above on that one as well, same problem.

took off the airbox and rubber air connector. when i turn the fuel on, i can see the fuel dribbling out of the two tiny holes that sit low in the carbie's air intake (see pic below). so the carbie overflowing for some reason, but no via the hose you would expect the overflow to pour out of.



i have the procycle aftermarket fuel tap and run a non-vacuum setup and the vacuum hose is blocked off. I've had this setup for almost a year now, so at a loss why the fuel is overflowing with either carbie.

googled around, one guy said the issue for him was a bad float needle. mine looks fine, is only 11 months old. anyone got any ideas? any help appreciated!
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:37 PM   #61517
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
bike stopped running yesterday. found the airbox full of fuel. drained and attempted repairs, eventually got home keeping the bike above half throttle the whole way (assumed it was then burning fuel faster than it could overflow).

pull carbie apart, disassemble and clean, check float level, rubber seals for the float assembly, float and action, reinstall, and have the same problem.
i have a spare carbie, so checked all the above on that one as well, same problem.

took off the airbox and rubber air connector. when i turn the fuel on, i can see the fuel dribbling out of the two tiny holes that sit low in the carbie's air intake (see pic below). so the carbie overflowing for some reason, but no via the hose you would expect the overflow to pour out of.



i have the procycle aftermarket fuel tap and run a non-vacuum setup and the vacuum hose is blocked off. I've had this setup for almost a year now, so at a loss why the fuel is overflowing with either carbie.

googled around, one guy said the issue for him was a bad float needle. mine looks fine, is only 11 months old. anyone got any ideas? any help appreciated!
Bad float needle, bad float height, maybe sucking fuel past the float o-rings. Fix all of the above and all will be fine.

Its probably the float height.

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Old 03-17-2012, 11:58 PM   #61518
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
We cycle between brands because no single manufacturer seems willing to keep up with the need for DR650 sprockets. On any given day we could be shipping JT, PBI or Sunstar sprockets. It depends on which vendor actually has sprockets available when we need them.
A big percentage of the JT 520 sprockets we've seen in the last year have had the threaded holes drilled slightly off so we've had to send lots of them back and I won't be getting more until JT has fixed them. This problem does not apply to the JT 525 sprockets.
I like the PBI a lot. They are US made and are high quality. But, we just bought all they had two weeks ago so I don't know what brand the next sprockets will be. I keep hunting for a single source that can give us a reliable supply.
thanks jeff.
i realized the shoulder area is the part that extends out from the sprocket.
i'm almost 100% sure that the old PBI had a bevel on the output shaft interface area and thus made less contact on that shaft.
sound like they've changed the design & that is a good thing.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:26 AM   #61519
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Bad float needle, bad float height, maybe sucking fuel past the float o-rings. Fix all of the above and all will be fine. Its probably the float height.
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thanks sagedrifter, i figured it had be one of those but being a bit of a noob at mechanics thought i might have been overlooking something.

it was the o-rings, turns out they were shot on both carbies. they looked ok but weren't fitting snugly in their recesses.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:55 AM   #61520
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Question for Maynard911

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
My experience with the ceebailey was not as satisfactory as TrophyHunter's, I purchased the larger commuter screen and found the buffeting to be eyball rattling mounted according to instructions included. It started as low as 30mph and the noise was amazingly loud. There followed many experiments with spacers, moving the shield in and out and tipping it forward and back. I was able to lessen the noise/buffeting but never to a level that was acceptable at highway speeds. Next I cut it down to approximately the sport shield dimensions and proceeded again with the spacing and tipping experiments. In the end the best compromise I was able to achieve was still not very satisfactory and I ended up putting it on the shelf. Your experience, as TH shows, may vary, your height how you sit on the bike can make a huge difference with any shield, TH is spot on about the cowl needing some extra support, it flops around way too much with the relatively heavy shield attached.

You said you ended up putting the cee baileys on the shelf.
Did you end up trying any other one that you might recommend?
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:09 AM   #61521
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
In reality it doesn't matter. it's not really practical to align the rear sprocket accurately enough that 1/16" either way on the front sprocket will make any difference. In addition, even a brand new chain has enough lateral slop in it to easily handle a 1/16" of misalignment.
Jeff - I didn't get to the sprocket change yesterday. The previous owner installed both sprockets and a new 520 EK chain just before I bought the bike last August. They have approx 2,000 miles on them.

I ordered the new front sprocket and triangular plate from Procycle last November. Whether or not this is mission critical, one direction must result in better alignment, and I need to choose; should the should face the engine, or away?

Thank you.

Jon
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:32 AM   #61522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Jeff - I didn't get to the sprocket change yesterday. The previous owner installed both sprockets and a new 520 EK chain just before I bought the bike last August. They have approx 2,000 miles on them.

I ordered the new front sprocket and triangular plate from Procycle last November. Whether or not this is mission critical, one direction must result in better alignment, and I need to choose; should the should face the engine, or away?

Thank you.

Jon
Engine, also compare the old one you take out, remember it's postition, then lay it flat on the table, lay the new one next to it, if they don't line up, flip the new one over
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:50 AM   #61523
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
Engine, also compare the old one you take out, remember it's postition, then lay it flat on the table, lay the new one next to it, if they don't line up, flip the new one over
I can and I will pay attention to the way the current 15T is oriented, but:

1) the previous owner installed the current one, so I can't know whether it was done correctly.
2) this is an aftermarket part and 520, not stock size, so manual doesn't help.
3) to see whether they seem to line up, I need to tighten up the back wheel and adjust the chain. Would be nice to know which is correct before I install, since obviously, with an asymmetrical sprocket, there is 1 correct orientation.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:22 AM   #61524
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
You ride a DR650? What happened? Did your Husky blow up!
Welcome to the Slums.

I do agree with your review of fuel tanks. See my above post. Acerbis just look better. I'd pay extra for that. The DR already looks like a Soviet era
Ural copy with the IMS on. Anything to dress it up a little to me is worth it.

I don't find the DR650 all that heavy. Even with bags on and a full tank. The 690 KTM is not all that much lighter. Faster? Yes, but it's no featherweight with the big tank and luggage.
Never had a Husky. I've got 7 bikes currently, picked up the DR a few months ago. The 690 is deceptively light, mainly due to the gas tank being under the seat. It weighs a few more pounds then a WR250R but when you ride them back to back, the WR "feels" heavier. BTW, the '08 690 has 25K miles on it, and is still going strong, the '06 DR only has 10K.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:53 AM   #61525
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
thanks sagedrifter, i figured it had be one of those but being a bit of a noob at mechanics thought i might have been overlooking something.

it was the o-rings, turns out they were shot on both carbies. they looked ok but weren't fitting snugly in their recesses.
I've replaced the o-rings twice in my carbs since 2007. I guess it's the ethanol. I run my atv and lawn equipment off straight gas and haven't replaced o-rings in a long time, one bowl seal went bad after 15 years. The bikes need attention more often. I just replaced the bowl seal on my TM40. Even the the o-ring on the sump bolt was falling apart. Its been 4 years though.

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Old 03-18-2012, 08:02 AM   #61526
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Shoulder goes in. The flat side is were the retainer fastens too. That's the way its been from day one on my bike.

If you want to put it on backwards, go for it. It doesn't matter much, it will still work. The drive line is not perfectly straight anyway. If you want it to be more flexible, run the clip, many do.

Nothing to worry about. Many of us have ran 520 set ups for many miles.






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Old 03-18-2012, 09:19 AM   #61527
TRAVELGUY
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Chain Adjustment

All this posting about sprocket inside/outside and chain alignment got me thinking, which can be dangerous. Many mentions have been made in past postings that the snail chain adjusters may cause misalignment of the rear wheel. I checked this on my previous DR with a tool sold by KTM, a large set of dividers that measure from the center of the swing arm shaft to the center of the rear axle. On that bike it checked out to be parallel to within a few thousands. Use to measure this with a tape measure before finding the KTM tool. My idea/question now is why not grind off the indentations on the snail adjusters so that they would be micro adjustable? I didn't like before that one notch the chain was looser than I liked and the next was tighter than I wanted. A month from now I will be starting the build of my DR650 travel/adventure bike. First time I remove the rear wheel I think I will do the grinding on the snail adjusters.

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Old 03-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #61528
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Not a bad idea at all. I know both my adjusters were on the same number and the wheel was off by a bit - crabbing off to the right while going straight ( I could turn left like crazy!!! )

Never recognized it until another rider pointed it out. I use the Motion Pro chain alignment tool which seems to work for me.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:03 AM   #61529
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Counter Shaft Sprocket with 520 Chain

I read this here a few days ago (weeks?) and it sounded right. I'll never find that post so this is what I remember. When using a 520 rear sprocket, it's 1/16" more narrow; so the chain is closer to the rear hub by that 1/16". With a 520 chain, the counter shaft sprocket should be mounted shoulder out, moving the CSS 1/16" toward the engine.

Using the CSS clip allows the sprocket to float on the shaft, self centering. It will tell you how it's aligning. Mine was two clicks off, pulling the sprocket towards the engine. I marked the snails with a felt tip to help when reinstalling the rear wheel. I'm satisfied with the results and have gone back to the stock CSS retainer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
thanks sagedrifter, i figured it had be one of those but being a bit of a noob at mechanics thought i might have been overlooking something.

it was the o-rings, turns out they were shot on both carbies. they looked ok but weren't fitting snugly in their recesses.
Thanks for the follow-up, I'm surprised the o-rings died that quickly.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:36 AM   #61530
AST236
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My latest 'adventure' ride

Actually, my latest adventure involved riding from Evergreen to the WhataBurger in Brewton for lunch. Wifey (She Who Shops) and daughter (She Who Is Growing Up Way Too Fast And Going To The Prom) are in B'ham shopping for a prom dress and singlehandedly pumping enough money into the local economy to raise the unemployment rate, so I'm alone w/ my thoughts and my bikes.

Those w/ long memories and a love of mindless trivia will remember that I bought at R1150GS last summer, announcing that I wanted to get to one bike to do it all. Fail! Sold the Beemer and bought a VFR750 and a DR650 for what I had in the GS.

Moto life is now more better (apologies to my English Major friends). The VFR is a better street bike and the DR is a better dualsport bike.

Impressions on the '98 DR? Slightly smoother engine than my last XR650L. Seat is marginally more comfortable. Instead of feeling like I"m riding on a 2X4 turned on edge, now it's like I'm on the wide part of the board. Plenty of torque for around town and pretty comfortable on the road at 60-65 mph (I think it's down one tooth from stock on the countershaft sprocket). Filled up when I got back at it took 1.028 gallons to go 57 miles. Can't complain about that. Virtually no wind protection, but the wind that hits me is clean w/ no helmet buffeting. Acutally much more comfortable and much quieter than on the GS, even w/ the addition of the $100 Tobinators on the GS windscreen. Don't much care for the Kenda's that whine like four wheel drive monster truck tires, but they'll be fine for a while. Will probably go w/ the Pirelli AT90 Scorpions like I had on my last XRL.

Anyway, that's my 'adventure' ride report for the day. Will now sit back and watch the rest of the NASCAR race from Bristol and start making a list of things to put on the DR after I get back to work.
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