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Old 03-25-2012, 03:12 PM   #61981
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
that hose with the filter on it is a breather hose might be fighting for air at higher RPM.
When I first read it I assumed it was making it hard for the slide to respond correctly, because the air intake at the airbox could be actually pulling a slight vacum on the carb vent\breather hose. This erratic movement of the slide is what I assumed caused the surge. Just a guess though because it wasn't my issue, just something I read.

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Old 03-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #61982
Rugby4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Have the SW Motech center stand and ride off it most every time it's used. Have to rock the bike back to get enough traction and sort of do a small wheelee right off the stand and keep going.

To deploy the center stand, put the bike in neutral, place left hand between tank and steering stem, grasping the tank, place right hand on rear passenger grip (part of luggage rack) and push stand to ground. Pull the bike backwards using both hands and a little left hip action. Works OK even loaded with camping gear.

Dave
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I feel a lot more secure about climbing on the peg when it's on a center stand instead of the side stand.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #61983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts1050 View Post
I ordered a Renthal Aluminum bar-7/8's. Will the OEM bar end weights fit? If not, how can I get them to fit?

I have Tag X-5 aluminum bars. I have a hose assortment in my garage, so I found some fuel line the fit snug inside the thicker walled aluminum bars and the inside diameter fit closely to the 6mm bolt for the weight. I went to the hardware store looking for the longest 6x1.00mm countersunk phillips head screws I could find. I ended up getting longer hex head head bolts instead, the countersunk phillips head screws they had in stock weren't as long as I would have liked. I then used the same dished/concave washers from the DR headlight shroud mounts (washer, cover side part # 09169-06033)

I took the stock handlebar weight put the long 6x80mm x1.00 thread pitch bolts through the weights, next on goes a 6mm ID flat washer that will fit inside the handlebar, next on goes the fuel hose cut long enough to just be able to get on the Suzuki headlight cover dished/concave washer and then a 6mm flange nut. The concave washer has to be installed concave side into the fuel hose so that when its tightened down it will expand the fuel hose clamping the whole assembly into the handlebar. Slip this assembly into the handle bar and tighten it down. The longer the bolt and section of fuel line you use the better for increased clamping. I mounted mine this way and they are rock solid. Kinda surprising Suzuki used such a short bolt and rubber expansion grommet to mount a WEIGHT to the end of the handlebar. Is it any wonder these things fall off?!

Parts list is quantity two of each:

2-Stock bar end weights
2-6mm x 1.00 x 80 to 100mm long bolts
2-sections of fuel hose with OD that fit's snug inside bars and fit closely to the 6mm bolts
2-6mmID flat washers that will also fit inside of bar ends
2-washer, cover side part # 09169-06033
2-6mm flange nuts

Make sure the throttle tube assembly is inboard enough to eliminate any possible contact with the bar end weight that might cause the throttle to bind.

Tech23


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Old 03-25-2012, 03:47 PM   #61984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I feel a lot more secure about climbing on the peg when it's on a center stand instead of the side stand.
I just went out, put mine up on the center stand, got on and rolled off. No bid deal. I would say that if it weren't on concrete I'd feel a lot more stable standing on the peg and getting on (which is what I usually do - bum left knee and I stand 5'6", weigh 165 pounds) than standing on the peg with it on the center stand.

By the way I don't find it easy to pull it back on the center stand when fully loaded, but then I can't bench press 325 pounds, either.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:57 PM   #61985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
I guess you will not be buying my carb I have for sale! you have to put the breather filter back on.
yeah i think i will save my money for a pumper. i hope when i put the breather filter back on it doesnt take a turn for the worse. thank again
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:58 PM   #61986
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I feel a lot more secure about climbing on the peg when it's on a center stand instead of the side stand.
Seriously? I always wonder WTF when I see a bike parked on a centre stand. They're great for maintenance, and for reducing the OA footprint in the garage, but that's it.

Centre stands have far less stability. Look at the triangle of contact with the ground. A side stand can't tip to the left, but a centre stand sure can.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:22 PM   #61987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Seriously? I always wonder WTF when I see a bike parked on a centre stand. They're great for maintenance, and for reducing the OA footprint in the garage, but that's it.

Centre stands have far less stability. Look at the triangle of contact with the ground. A side stand can't tip to the left, but a centre stand sure can.
I hate to disagree but with the fuel tank overhanging the side stand and my weight standing on the peg with most of my large body hanging outboard, that sucker will rear up on the stand like a hobie cat in high wind. On the other hand, I spent years kick starting my BMW R75/5 on the center stand and never had a wobble. And remember that the kick starter on a /5 rotates outward on the left side.

Of course after I've practiced my mounting technique for a while I may find the center stand redundant.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:41 PM   #61988
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I have Tag X-5 aluminum bars. I have a hose assortment in my garage, so I found some fuel line the fit snug inside the thicker walled aluminum bars and the inside diameter fit closely to the 6mm bolt for the weight. I went to the hardware store looking for the longest 6x1.00mm countersunk phillips head screws I could find. I ended up getting longer hex head head bolts instead, the countersunk phillips head screws they had in stock weren't as long as I would have liked. I then used the same dished/concave washers from the DR headlight shroud mounts (washer, cover side part # 09169-06033)

I took the stock handlebar weight put the long 6x80mm x1.00 thread pitch bolts through the weights, next on goes a 6mm ID flat washer that will fit inside the handlebar, next on goes the fuel hose cut long enough to just be able to get on the Suzuki headlight cover dished/concave washer and then a 6mm flange nut. The concave washer has to be installed concave side into the fuel hose so that when its tightened down it will expand the fuel hose clamping the whole assembly into the handlebar. Slip this assembly into the handle bar and tighten it down. The longer the bolt and section of fuel line you use the better for increased clamping. I mounted mine this way and they are rock solid. Kinda surprising Suzuki used such a short bolt and rubber expansion grommet to mount a WEIGHT to the end of the handlebar. Is it any wonder these things fall off?!

Parts list is quantity two of each:

2-Stock bar end weights
2-6mm x 1.00 x 80 to 100mm long bolts
2-sections of fuel hose with OD that fit's snug inside bars and fit closely to the 6mm bolts
2-6mmID flat washers that will also fit inside of bar ends
2-washer, cover side part # 09169-06033
2-6mm flange nuts

Make sure the throttle tube assembly is inboard enough to eliminate any possible contact with the bar end weight that might cause the throttle to bind.

Tech23




I'm not sure about the size of the insert, but if the bar end weights could be made to fit these are really nice. I've used them for mounting hand guards and I like it a lot better than any of the compression fitted methods.

http://www.g2ergo.com/nylon-bar-end-mounts-6.html

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Old 03-25-2012, 04:52 PM   #61989
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
My new and outrageously expensive Safari 30 lt Supertanker is due to arrive in the next couple of days (thanks to Acerbis shrinking their fictitious 25 litre tank down to just 20 lt).

So stock petcock is going....



Whats the BEST way to cap off the carb (TM40) vacuum line please guys?

Cheers, Ung.
'Proper size vacuum cap, available at most autoparts stores for less than $1.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:03 PM   #61990
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Taz tries a new front tire

Living in the scenic SouthWest, I get to ride a lot, and I go through tires fairly quickly. My DR650 is perfect for the type of riding I do, but over the years I have found that not all dual sport tires are up to the challenge that goes with adventure riding.

Long story short, The last three sets of tires I have used were the Dunlop 606's. I have tried most of the popular mixed-use tires, and really like the big 606 rear tire, but not so much the front. So, tomorrow I will be leaving Colorado for a four day ride in Moab Utah with a brand new IRC TR-8 Battle Rally front tire.

I have already put about 100 miles on the tire to scub it in, and so far I am very impressed with the handling, both on pavement and off road. It is much quieter and more stable on pavement and has shown no surprises on the hard pack sand/gravel mix that is common here in CO.

As usual I did reasearch on this tire, but couldn't find much information or rider comments. It is four-ply DOT approved, and has a reversable lug pattern so that if (when) the tire begins to wear unevenly or scallop like the front D606's are notorious for, I can flip it around and hopefully get many more useful miles out of it.

I will update this post when I return from MOAB!

Ride safe!

Taz9

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Old 03-25-2012, 07:50 PM   #61991
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaZ9 View Post
Living in the scenic SouthWest, I get to ride a lot, and I go through tires fairly quickly. My DR650 is perfect for the type of riding I do, but over the years I have found that not all dual sport tires are up to the challenge that goes with adventure riding.

Long story short, The last three sets of tires I have used were the Dunlop 606's. I have tried most of the popular mixed-use tires, and really like the big 606 rear tire, but not so much the front. So, tomorrow I will be leaving Colorado for a four day ride in Moab Utah with a brand new IRC TR-8 Battle Rally front tire.

I have already put about 100 miles on the tire to scub it in, and so far I am very impressed with the handling, both on pavement and off road. It is much quieter and more stable on pavement and has shown no surprises on the hard pack sand/gravel mix that is common here in CO.

As usual I did reasearch on this tire, but couldn't find much information or rider comments. It is four-ply DOT approved, and has a reversable lug pattern so that if (when) the tire begins to wear unevenly or scallop like the front D606's are notorious for, I can flip it around and hopefully get many more useful miles out of it.

I will update this post when I return from MOAB!

Ride safe!

Taz9
i use that same front tire. great front DS tire.
IRC is a japanese company and they make great tires.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:04 PM   #61992
TaZ9
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So, how's it doing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i use that same front tire. great front DS tire.
IRC is a japanese company and they make great tires.
How many miles do you have on it, and how is it wearing? Any left side scalloping, etc?

I have used other IRC tires before, and may have seen this one and not realized what it was.

I really like the lug pattern and it even handles well on the poorly designed highway "rain grooves " we have here in Colorado.

Hopefully it will be better than some of the others I have tried.

Taz9

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Old 03-25-2012, 09:29 PM   #61993
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
I tried those red EBC's, I believe they are billed as Kelvar. I would say they were down about 30% on braking power compared to stock. You could still lock the wheel but it took a hearty four fingered pull of the lever. After 500mi of hoping they would break in I tossed them.
I agree ... they are a bit weak. I've got them mounted out back. They wear well but not much power compared to HH or OEM pads.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:03 PM   #61994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
I'm climbing aboard with the kickstand down now but I don't climb on the left peg 1st because I weigh almost as much as the bike does dry and I'm not sure the side stand is robust enough to handle the stress. Don't want to break it off at the frame. I'm thinking of adding a center stand and climbing on the foot peg, then rocking back and riding off of it. Anybody else doing this?
The side stand will hold you ... but try to get on the bike "Horse Style" as many have already suggested. This is really THE ONLY WAY ... and it's easy. If the bike raised way up in the back, then you may have more left lean on the stand. Move the bike so the bike is more up right = less strain on stand when you step up.

Do it JUST LIKE A HORSE: Here is how I do it:
Left foot on left foot peg. Lean forward, grab front brake. Push Up and swing your right leg over the seat. This is very easy, low stress.

PS : I nearly lost my left leg. (compound Tip/Fib, complex break) 2 years,
6 operations, Ti hardware. Motorcycles and Armco barriers don't mix.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:34 AM   #61995
Rugby4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
PS : I nearly lost my left leg. (compound Tip/Fib, complex break) 2 years,
6 operations, Ti hardware. Motorcycles and Armco barriers don't mix.
I feel your pain. Another thing that doesn't go well with bikes (or antique cars) is a 16 yr old girl playng with her stereo instead of watching where she's going
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