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Old 04-18-2012, 08:21 PM   #63061
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Acerbis tank - reports coming in that the SINGLE petcock is facing the wrong way. They're replacing directly to the buyer but just putting it out there in case someone was ordering one for a specific time/date ride. Might be a few more days to get the proper petcock. Also some fitment issues with the Corbin - can be done.

Really like the look of the tank and have had Acerbis stuff in the past...all quality items.

Won't the stock or the raptor petcock work in the Acerbis tank? Why is everyone (so far) using the supplied wrong petcock?

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Old 04-18-2012, 08:26 PM   #63062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...istank001.jpg/ 11 photos
I am not use to putting $20 in the DR tank.
great pics zdiver! cheers for those.. doesn't look very big at all on the DR.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:26 PM   #63063
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Unsure about the fitment of others. I haven't seen anything where folks are using the (wrong but supplied) petcock. They're getting replacements direct from Acerbis who's now aware of the problem. I'm thinking they'll prolly get the proper unit in the upcoming shipments....?? Hopefully.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:31 PM   #63064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Unsure about the fitment of others. I haven't seen anything where folks are using the (wrong but supplied) petcock. They're getting replacements direct from Acerbis who's now aware of the problem. I'm thinking they'll prolly get the proper unit in the upcoming shipments....?? Hopefully.
Yea but doesn't the supplied petcock have a plastic lever? Would opening the hole to fit a higher quality petcock be risking a leak? To add the second petcock you have too drill the tank anyway...without the benefit of a pilot hole to enlarge.

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Old 04-18-2012, 08:35 PM   #63065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsOnMyBoard View Post
great pics zdiver! cheers for those.. doesn't look very big at all on the DR.
The tank is full and did not feel heavy I like it better then the stock tank already.

zdiver1 screwed with this post 04-18-2012 at 08:59 PM
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:36 PM   #63066
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The pics I've seen show a plastic lever. I know nothing about fitting other petcocks to the tank or adding a second one. You've surpassed my gas tank technical knowledge (which started at zero).....

Maybe the folks that have one can chime in with their experience.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:54 PM   #63067
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Petcock

The one that came with the tank looked like the Pingel but plastic and I was thinking about useing my Raptor but the tank had 2.5 gal in it, the raptor may work.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:57 PM   #63068
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
...Also some fitment issues with the Corbin - can be done...
which corbin? for stock tank, or for ims tank? do you think one of the corbins would be better than the other?

thanks,

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Old 04-18-2012, 09:15 PM   #63069
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Wow, what a thread. I can see the DR650 is a very popular bike. I currently own a Yamaha XT350 and an XT225, and have owned several other dual sports, from a 175 to 650s. But I am not that familiar with the DR650. I am seriously considering buying one, and have one in mind. I have owned a pre '08 KLR650, but don't really care for the liquid cooling. I plan on using this bike to take long trips on dirt roads/trails in the southwestern desert, and need a bike that is both tough and simple. Two of the main things that attracted me to the DR650 is it is air cooled, and there is an oversize tank and centerstand available for it. I( find myself riding my XT225 much more than the stock XT350 because it has a 4 gal. Clarke tank and a Cigar Mike centerstand. I have had a number of flats, and that centerstand has probably saved my life more than once in the AZ desert. I have a bike in mind, it is a stock '06 model, looks to be in good shape, not all beat up, for $2500. It has 16,000+ miles on it. How long can one expect such an bike, or rather engine, to last if it is decently maintained. I have been told by a number of people that 650cc singles rarely ever make it past 50,000 miles. I really like this bike, and would like to pull the trigger on it. But I'm trying to decide whether it is worth it, and how reliable it would be. I would have to buy the tank, centerstand, a rack, new tires and tubes, and a new chain at minimum, plus the price of the bike. Another thing is reliability. A breakdown in the middle of the AZ/NM desert can be fatal, especially in the summer. Any suggestions/information would be appreciated
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:25 PM   #63070
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Pissed Hang in there Jeff!

Jeff is probably pulling his hair out over this Acerbis tank cluster, now Acerbis can not get the petcock right!
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:28 PM   #63071
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JerryH - Grifter posted a link a page or two ago about JediMaster's DR,,,which he's reluctantly selling....after 75,000 miles of round the world travel. This should hopefully quell any concerns over a well maintained DR's reliability. I understand the desert concerns and Grifter has ridden many miles in similar conditions, as have others. I chased pumpkins around the El Centro area for 140 miles in the dirt one day without a hitch.

You obviously have some background so maintaining a DR will be a snap for you.

doug s. - sorry, didn't grab the seat details. Now I've had my seat & gas tank knowledge surpassed in one evening. Rats. I'm going to bed.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:44 PM   #63072
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Timing Inspection plug removal

looking for any tips on removing the plug at crankshaft . The previous owner stripped ( rounded ) out the Allen key by using either a metric or a standard size too small or perhaps a Torx . I tried tapping with a hammer all around the edges to loosen the threads & hammering in an Allen key into the damaged plug but it would not budge & I made it worse. Actually before I had a go at it , it was too far gone , pretty much rounded out & the metal is soft & fragmented
I hope I don't have to remove that side of the crankcase ?
The replacement plugs (blue) I got from ProCycle said to reuse the oring but the small one that I could remove did not have one . Is the oring imperative / mandatory ?

thanks
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:32 PM   #63073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VBdiver View Post
looking for any tips on removing the plug at crankshaft . The previous owner stripped ( rounded ) out the Allen key by using either a metric or a standard size too small or perhaps a Torx . I tried tapping with a hammer all around the edges to loosen the threads & hammering in an Allen key into the damaged plug but it would not budge & I made it worse. Actually before I had a go at it , it was too far gone , pretty much rounded out & the metal is soft & fragmented
I hope I don't have to remove that side of the crankcase ?
The replacement plugs (blue) I got from ProCycle said to reuse the oring but the small one that I could remove did not have one . Is the oring imperative / mandatory ?

thanks
Use a chisel and a hammer. The chisel will dig into the soft plug, and hammer it in the direction to turn the plug to remove it. Hope that made sense.. It will come right out, but it will be trashed. But I see you thought ahead and got some new pretty ones
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:31 AM   #63074
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And maybe add just a little heat.

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Old 04-19-2012, 02:47 AM   #63075
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shinko's

Aloha all

I just installed some Shinko 705s onto my 2001 DR 650 and let me say that they are a vast improvement over the trailwings. I picked them up from Procycle and got them shipped over to Honolulu along with some new tubes all for under $200.

lets see how long they last.


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