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Old 05-12-2012, 08:07 AM   #64156
Load Clear
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Wheel weight

Ahh - thanks MotoD - sounds common sense to me..now.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:08 AM   #64157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Wear is specific to just the rider in my case. There's a reason I have this stockpile of tires

Holy smokes Batman!! I've been in dealerships that didn't have that many tires!!
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:46 AM   #64158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Wear is specific to just the rider in my case. There's a reason I have this stockpile of tires

At first I thought you had some doomesday-horder thing going then checked your profile, just a couple spares for each bike.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:14 AM   #64159
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Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Pics if the "new" Pat Walsh Designs skid plate are up on their web site. It's looking pretty good to me, but I wish they would have done away with the front clamps. Otherwise a nice clean design and extra beefy! Extended rear using the factory mounts and went back to the rubber isolation.

I'm still waffling back and forth between the PWD and the SW Motech, and occasionly looking at the TCI plate with the integrated crash bars.

SW Motech

The SW Motech is currently on my 07 Roadie DR, extremely tidy mounting setup (rubber grommets / no clamps), but the aluminum sheet is only 1/8" and shouldn't be considered for serious offroad use. Great for fireroads / adv touring and mellow trail riding though... IMO

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Old 05-12-2012, 11:56 AM   #64160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
The SW Motech is currently on my 07 Roadie DR, extremely tidy mounting setup (rubber grommets / no clamps), but the aluminum sheet is only 1/8" and shouldn't be considered for serious offroad use. Great for fireroads / adv touring and mellow trail riding though... IMO

996DL

I agree with this and would add, the drain plug hole is spot on, I don't think I have ever had to clean any motor oil off the skid plate after an oil change. No reflective noise at all with all the openings. Here in AZ I think the air circulation would also be a benefit. Great street/supermoto plate. The SW Motech skid plate will flex/bend slightly if you lift the bike from the skid plate with a lift table style jack that only lifts from a single point.

I had the Ricochet products skid plate and removed it, I didn't like how the mounting clamps had to be positioned just right in the recesses of the case and even then were too close for comfort. The reflective noise was terrible, on the street it made the gearbox sound like it was filled with gravel. With the Ricochet skid plate, I don't know how you would early detect any new noise from the transmission if a problem were to develop.

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Old 05-12-2012, 12:17 PM   #64161
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Is there any way to hard wire a GPS that would normally use a cigarette lighter plug? Can you just cut off the plug and splice the wires or is there some sort of a transformer in that plug? I'm thinking specifically of a basic Garmin unit meant for cars.

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
Is that key-controlled power or constant?

I'm thinking it might be a good idea, if that connection is low power and key-controlled, to use it to control a relay that runs to the battery.

That way there's no extra load on that connector (or too much of a load) and there's no load to drain the battery when the key is off.

Just thinking out loud...
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:33 PM   #64162
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Originally Posted by Arc 21 View Post
I realize that my speedometer should have some movement in the rubber mounts but I can grab the speedo head and move it around quite a bit.....seems like it wasn't that loose before. I live in a dry climate and rubber goes away quick here so I'm thinking the mounts may need to be replaced.

Is that much movent normal ? Is this a common problem? Better aftermarket rubber bushings?
Mine are very loose too ... and I'm always thinking they are about to fall off, but everything is tight. That said, It would not hurt to add a new rubber damper in there, just to snug things up. My only concern with all the movement is stress on the Speedo cable. I'd bet you could improvise a rubber grommet of some kind to fit in there. The nuts will be very tight coming off (factory loc-tite) but they will come off.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:37 PM   #64163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
Is there any way to hard wire a GPS that would normally use a cigarette lighter plug? Can you just cut off the plug and splice the wires or is there some sort of a transformer in that plug? I'm thinking specifically of a basic Garmin unit meant for cars.

Thanks!
If you are talking about the little switched plug up by the headlight, then YES, it's fine for a GPS. I use it to run my Heated Grips. (36 watts on high). No relay. Works fine. GPS probably draws 7 to 10 watts max. No problemo.

Keep in mind, its a SWITCHED connector, which means is only HOT with KEY ON. There are several, various Switched and UNswitched plugs available ALL over the DR. Look around the battery/air box and around main fuse area. Two or three are free. Stick your VOM on them, check them out.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:56 PM   #64164
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Righto gents... I just found a 2006 DR650 at a local dealership, and I hope y'all don't mind some questions.

Under 3000 miles, they want $3999 (too much, and I told them that). It has a Givi thin-wall-plastic top-box (I'm not into top-boxes... I reckon I could use it for a bit then sell it), a dent in the tank with paint flaked off, minor dent pock-marks on the muffler's guard plate on the right side of the bike, and it has a bottom-guard of some sort. It's also the color I least wanted... yellow. (sorry Yellow owners)

1.) I am only 5'10", 32" inseam at max... more like 30" for dress pants... yet with thin flip-flops I was able to basically flat-foot it, or flat-foot one foot, and the other would be up less than a centimeter at the heel... but basically felt like flat-footing both sides... so with boots I'd be flat-footed no problem. I noticed that when I got on it the suspension went down quite a bit (185 lbs.). This doesn't seem right, but I've never sat on a DR650 before. Sure, OK, so it's a Japanese bike, and we all know they spring them for anorexic japanese teen-agers... so I don't mind switching springs up front, but I'm going to guess the rear spring will cost me dearly to get it up to par.

This will be a initially re-geared (with, what, a 17-tooth front sprocket?) slab-commuting bike expected to do Florida speeds (I'll need to work the suspension to be stable at 80 MPH, or faster, and it will get road tires on the rims for now... it has what look like original Bridgestone tires on it).

2.) it has a Corbin seat (again, ugly blue and yellow), but color me shocked when I found out how soft it is... Unexpected and disappointing for a Corbin - I expected that high-quality firm foam support from them (I own a Corbin on another bike), and can't imagine this one is any better than a stock soft-foam saddle so many bikes come with. So this seems wrong as well.

How much $ am I looking at to change the plastics to some other color... I know I can spray-paint what is on the bike, but that seems extreme for such a new bike. I don't know if I could use ebay to sell the plastics on it, but I guess there'd be a market.

I can't think of much else, but I know I'm looking at an investment to get the bike up to a quasi-super-moto that is ready for 400 miles a week commuting. I really can't find any other style of bike with such a neutral seating position, and I like the ability it will have to take it on dirt roads and trails.

Any input would be helpful. I'm sure it's a good bike due to the mileage, but ... so much needs changed on it to make it anything like I'd want. On top of that, I've seen DR's through the Flea Market here, and on craigslist in other states, for less money that I'd rather have.

I'm waiting for a phone call with their best offer since I told him what my research showed on the price and prices of others. Aside form the price, though, any comments about anything I've noted above? Thanks for any input.
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:39 PM   #64165
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Righto gents... I just found a 2006 DR650 at a local dealership, and I hope y'all don't mind some questions.

Under 3000 miles, they want $3999 (too much, and I told them that). $3000-$3500 is about the highest I would go, especially since it's mostly stock and has some damage on the muff and tank. FL tends to have high prices on used motos for some reason though.

It has a Givi thin-wall-plastic top-box (I'm not into top-boxes... I reckon I could use it for a bit then sell it), It might grow on you, what with the commuting. I like having someplace to lock things up. These aren't the most secure, but my bike also has an alarm. I like the 45L Givi I have, but I'm even looking for a good deal on a 55L for trips.

a dent in the tank with paint flaked off, minor dent pock-marks on the muffler's guard plate on the right side of the bike, and it has a bottom-guard of some sort. It's also the color I least wanted... yellow. (sorry Yellow owners)

These things are often/easily changed. I'd use them as bargaining chips to negotiate price though. If the side plastics and headlight shroud are white, with a plain black seat, just changing the fenders will effectively change the color of the DR...given a neutral tank. My DR has blue fenders with white sides/shroud/tank. With my tankbag and tank panniers on, the bike basically just looks blue.

1.) I am only 5'10", 32" inseam at max... more like 30" for dress pants... yet with thin flip-flops I was able to basically flat-foot it, or flat-foot one foot, and the other would be up less than a centimeter at the heel... but basically felt like flat-footing both sides... so with boots I'd be flat-footed no problem. I noticed that when I got on it the suspension went down quite a bit (185 lbs.). This doesn't seem right, but I've never sat on a DR650 before. Sure, OK, so it's a Japanese bike, and we all know they spring them for anorexic japanese teen-agers... so I don't mind switching springs up front, but I'm going to guess the rear spring will cost me dearly to get it up to par.

How so? You get a new spring for your weight and swap it on. What usually costs a bit is getting the dampening set up right. Compression dampening is adjustable, with the stock shock, but rebound dampening can pretty much only be adjusted by changing the fluid. To be able to adjust the rebound dampening without changing fluid, the shock has to be modified/swapped.

This will be a initially re-geared (with, what, a 17-tooth front sprocket?) slab-commuting bike expected to do Florida speeds (I'll need to work the suspension to be stable at 80 MPH, or faster, and it will get road tires on the rims for now... it has what look like original Bridgestone tires on it).

Why re-gear? A stock DR is geared pretty tall...15/42. You might like to go as tall as 16/42, but I'd recommend a flat-slide pumper carb if you go that route, to smooth out your pull at low revs. Even with stock gearing, you'll run out of power in 5th before you run out of revs. I'd concentrate more on the suspension and the air/fuel flow first. If you just get those right, the DR is pretty competent on the highway.

2.) it has a Corbin seat (again, ugly blue and yellow), but color me shocked when I found out how soft it is... Unexpected and disappointing for a Corbin - I expected that high-quality firm foam support from them (I own a Corbin on another bike), and can't imagine this one is any better than a stock soft-foam saddle so many bikes come with. So this seems wrong as well.

I wouldn't recommend a Corbin for this bike. It's a dualsport, where weight counts more than on a 500lb+ cruiser. The stiff-pan Corbin also might not work well if you're switching tanks. Sell it and buy a flexible-pan stock seat that weighs less, then upgrade that with something like a Seat Concepts or Saddlemen re-cover kit. Do the work yourself and you might come out $$ ahead.

How much $ am I looking at to change the plastics to some other color... I know I can spray-paint what is on the bike, but that seems extreme for such a new bike. I don't know if I could use ebay to sell the plastics on it, but I guess there'd be a market.

Yes, there can be a market for some colors. I see plastics on Ebay and other listing sites. Procycle and several others also sell new plastics for the DR. Some bits from other bikes can also be made to fit. DR-Z, KTM, and RM fenders are popular. My DR wears a Polisport YZF front fender that I got new for under $10. I've seen rear fenders on Ebay for $20. It might take time to find a specific color for a good price though.

I can't think of much else, but I know I'm looking at an investment to get the bike up to a quasi-super-moto that is ready for 400 miles a week commuting. I really can't find any other style of bike with such a neutral seating position, and I like the ability it will have to take it on dirt roads and trails.

You can also change the ergos quite a bit on the DR to fit you even better...taller bars, bar risers, angle-changes on the bars, lowered rider pegs, lowered pillion pegs, touring pegs bolted onto the skid, taller/lower/flatter/narrower seat, etc.

Any input would be helpful. I'm sure it's a good bike due to the mileage, but ... so much needs changed on it to make it anything like I'd want. On top of that, I've seen DR's through the Flea Market here, and on craigslist in other states, for less money that I'd rather have.

I'm waiting for a phone call with their best offer since I told him what my research showed on the price and prices of others. Aside form the price, though, any comments about anything I've noted above?
For commuting, I'd definitely want a larger tank than stock. I have an IMS 4.9 that usually gets me about 220-230 miles to Reserve, but I usually travel at 75MPH or less. Acerbis just came out with a 5.something that is slightly bigger and has decent reviews on fit and finish. If you hate stopping all the time for fuel, there is also the Aqualine Safari tank. I believe it's listed as 7.9gal, but some people are reporting filling with around 9gal after it expands a bit. Plastic tanks can do this. My IMS 4.9 has taken 5.2gal before, and I've never run it dry. Locking caps are also available for these, but you will likely want to improve the venting.

I also like having lockable storage. PacSafe makes an 80L bag that is nice for locking up your riding gear. They also offer mesh to cover your soft luggage and lock it to the bike. I also lock the bike frame and wheels up with a Xena alarmed disc-lock and a 15-30' cable to something solid. Put a decent paging alarm on the bike too.

www.Procycle.us, www.kientech.com, www.motorcyclesuperstore.com, www.bikebandit.com, and many others carry a LOT of different things for setting up you and your bike the way you want.

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Old 05-12-2012, 02:11 PM   #64166
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Wear is specific to just the rider in my case. There's a reason I have this stockpile of tires


Just a few here, I've got 5 more under the house and my spare set of dirt wheels/tires for the DR in the Garage.

I try to snag good deals on Craig's List when I have time ... if I can get them shipped or are close by. Just put a new set of Pirelli's on my Tiger from Craig's. Great deal, brand new.

The 5 tires under the house are most near new ones for giveaway to passing travelers. Mostly 21's and 17's, one MT60 18".
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #64167
Mongle
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Just thought I would let everyone know: DO NOT WASH YOUR DR WITH SUPER CLEAN! Even diluted it stained a lot of stuff. Took me an hour just to get the white off the rims. On a side note.... The dirt and gunk hosed right off. Live and learn.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:16 PM   #64168
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Questions

will running the bike without the o-ring that goes inside the filter housing cause any engine damage? I was changing the oil today and I realized that I didnt have an o-ring.

will the paper fibers left from wiping the excess oil from the oil filter housing with a paper towel cause any damage?

can i install a centerstand and still have my sidestand?
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #64169
alonzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Righto gents... I just found a 2006 DR650 at a local dealership, and I hope y'all don't mind some questions.

Under 3000 miles, they want $3999 (too much, and I told them that).
...
I paid $3500 for a `06 DR650 with only 500 miles on it and no dents/dings/rust/etc. in `08 (from an individual, not dealer.) I think that was about book price back then.

kbb.com list the '06 in excellent condition at $3480 (seems kinda high to me.)

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Old 05-12-2012, 04:32 PM   #64170
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Past post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
will running the bike without the o-ring that goes inside the filter housing cause any engine damage? I was changing the oil today and I realized that I didnt have an o-ring.

will the paper fibers left from wiping the excess oil from the oil filter housing with a paper towel cause any damage?

can i install a centerstand and still have my sidestand?
when I got my 2011, I ordered the procycle oil change kit, you click on the special package deals and at the bottom of the page.
It comes with 10 filters, o-rings,oil plug magnet,filter magnet,for $60. bucks.
I have the sw center stand and you keep the side stand. I only use the center stand when I work on the bike.
If you are talking about the small o-ring that the filter goes over it will not filter 100% I would not think it would damage a thing.
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