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Old 05-12-2012, 04:55 PM   #64156
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
will running the bike without the o-ring that goes inside the filter housing cause any engine damage? I was changing the oil today and I realized that I didnt have an o-ring.

will the paper fibers left from wiping the excess oil from the oil filter housing with a paper towel cause any damage?

can i install a centerstand and still have my sidestand?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
If you are talking about the small o-ring that the filter goes over it will not filter 100% I would not think it would damage a thing.
If you're asking about #14 that Zdiver mentioned, you can just take the filter back out and install it. Do it after the bike is cold so the oil has drained down. The paper fibers won't hurt, but don't make a habit out of leaving things inside that you can see.

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2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #64157
zdiver1
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Paper towel fiber

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
will running the bike without the o-ring that goes inside the filter housing cause any engine damage? I was changing the oil today and I realized that I didnt have an o-ring.

will the paper fibers left from wiping the excess oil from the oil filter housing with a paper towel cause any damage?

can i install a centerstand and still have my sidestand?
I would use a better paper towel.
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:48 PM   #64158
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLRN View Post
Almost four years ago a local machining/fabrication guy came up with a unique drop bracket configuration for the operator foot pegs on the 1999 and newer DR650. This configuration utilizes the Suzuki designed vibration isolation feature. This drop bracket configuration is best for folks that ride mostly street/gravel roads and are not doing that much 'stand up' riding off-road. This is due to the lowering of the foot pegs beneath the frame and the vibration isolation feature was designed for a mostly seated rider.

Anyways he's still got 6-7 bracket sets from this one time CNC production run and wants to get rid of them.......first come first serve..........when they are gone that's it. He has reduced the price to $60 shipped vs. the $75 previously (Paypal fees extra). The guy that had him design and manufacture these drop brackets posted up a review of them...........read thru the links below for more info, pictures and his contact info if interested


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7817999&postcount=16710


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=16712
There's a good chance he didn't come up with a "unique drop bracket configuration"...

This post mentions getting the idea from TrailZone Magazine...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1665

And there's been CAD drawings on this site for almost 4 years too...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1669
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:39 PM   #64159
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
For commuting, I'd definitely want a larger tank than stock. I have an IMS 4.9 that usually gets me about 220-230 miles to Reserve, but I usually travel at 75MPH or less. Acerbis just came out with a 5.something that is slightly bigger and has decent reviews on fit and finish. If you hate stopping all the time for fuel, there is also the Aqualine Safari tank. I believe it's listed as 7.9gal, but some people are reporting filling with around 9gal after it expands a bit. Plastic tanks can do this. My IMS 4.9 has taken 5.2gal before, and I've never run it dry. Locking caps are also available for these, but you will likely want to improve the venting.
...
Thanks so mu Kommando, and you too alonzo.

I just made a call on this one:

2002 DR650



Certainly older, and more stock, but with a DG exhaust, jetted with a 160, and lower miles. Might be able to get it for the mid-$2000 range.

I don't know about these super-low-mile DR's here in Florida... seems tough to believe. Anyone happen to know of a compression number or range for a low-mile DR650? I may bring a compression tester to test it.

And thanks for the reminder about the Corbins not fitting larger tanks well, Kommando - a large tank a must for what I do with it. I like the options you gave, and can see going that route.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:55 PM   #64160
zdiver1
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I blame you!

http://www.galleryofguns.com/genie/d...spx?item=96328 The thread is slow my last upgrade is on back ordered with PC, so I logged into gallery of guns and picked up a full sized 1911 to add to my gun collection it would be nice if you guys would pick it up so I would not look around.

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 08:43 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:03 PM   #64161
zdiver1
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Thumb Acerbis Black tank

Acerbis Black tank

When you get the tank weigh it empty and weigh the stock tank empty I wanted to do it and forgot.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:03 PM   #64162
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
Thank you. I was looking for the link you posted and was not successful. I will try it out and update.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:06 PM   #64163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Righto gents... I just found a 2006 DR650 at a local dealership, and I hope y'all don't mind some questions.

Under 3000 miles, they want $3999 (too much, and I told them that). It has a Givi thin-wall-plastic top-box (I'm not into top-boxes... I reckon I could use it for a bit then sell it), a dent in the tank with paint flaked off, minor dent pock-marks on the muffler's guard plate on the right side of the bike, and it has a bottom-guard of some sort. It's also the color I least wanted... yellow. (sorry Yellow owners)

1.) I am only 5'10", 32" inseam at max... more like 30" for dress pants... yet with thin flip-flops I was able to basically flat-foot it, or flat-foot one foot, and the other would be up less than a centimeter at the heel... but basically felt like flat-footing both sides... so with boots I'd be flat-footed no problem. I noticed that when I got on it the suspension went down quite a bit (185 lbs.). This doesn't seem right, but I've never sat on a DR650 before. Sure, OK, so it's a Japanese bike, and we all know they spring them for anorexic japanese teen-agers... so I don't mind switching springs up front, but I'm going to guess the rear spring will cost me dearly to get it up to par.

This will be a initially re-geared (with, what, a 17-tooth front sprocket?) slab-commuting bike expected to do Florida speeds (I'll need to work the suspension to be stable at 80 MPH, or faster, and it will get road tires on the rims for now... it has what look like original Bridgestone tires on it).

2.) it has a Corbin seat (again, ugly blue and yellow), but color me shocked when I found out how soft it is... Unexpected and disappointing for a Corbin - I expected that high-quality firm foam support from them (I own a Corbin on another bike), and can't imagine this one is any better than a stock soft-foam saddle so many bikes come with. So this seems wrong as well.

How much $ am I looking at to change the plastics to some other color... I know I can spray-paint what is on the bike, but that seems extreme for such a new bike. I don't know if I could use ebay to sell the plastics on it, but I guess there'd be a market.

I can't think of much else, but I know I'm looking at an investment to get the bike up to a quasi-super-moto that is ready for 400 miles a week commuting. I really can't find any other style of bike with such a neutral seating position, and I like the ability it will have to take it on dirt roads and trails.

Any input would be helpful. I'm sure it's a good bike due to the mileage, but ... so much needs changed on it to make it anything like I'd want. On top of that, I've seen DR's through the Flea Market here, and on craigslist in other states, for less money that I'd rather have.

I'm waiting for a phone call with their best offer since I told him what my research showed on the price and prices of others. Aside form the price, though, any comments about anything I've noted above? Thanks for any input.
Mambo...just curious. If you're planning to put on a 17 tooth gear and slap commute with it, why are you interested in a DR versus maybe a Wee Strom?
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:08 PM   #64164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Anyone happen to know of a compression number or range for a low-mile DR650? I may bring a compression tester to test it.
The DR is notorious for trapping debris around the two plugs, bring a flashlight, your smallest screwdriver and a can of brake clean to jettison the muck, or you'll get a cylinder full...

996DL
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #64165
smilin jack
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Cleaning spark plug debris

Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
The DR is notorious for trapping debris around the two plugs, bring a flashlight, your smallest screwdriver and a can of brake clean to jettison the muck, or you'll get a cylinder full...

996DL
Found a plastic soda straw or two in the tool box works well to blow the dirt from around the spark plugs and other tight places. Have even used a soda straw as a nut starter/nut driver in hard to reach places.

Dave
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:34 PM   #64166
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Righto gents... I just found a 2006 DR650 at a local dealership, and I hope y'all don't mind some questions.
There are 64+ thousand posts of guys looking for something to talk about. We'll make time.

Quote:
.....the tank with paint flaked off....
Tank dings suck, whine the price down. Even if you're going to get a larger, non-yellow tank.

Quote:
1.) I am only 5'10", 32" inseam at max... more like 30" for dress pants... yet with thin flip-flops I was able to basically flat-foot it, or flat-foot one foot, and the other would be up less than a centimeter at the heel... but basically felt like flat-footing both sides... so with boots I'd be flat-footed no problem.
I'm on my tippy toes with a 30" inseam. There are two possibilities: the bike has been lowered by slipping the forks up in the triple clamps or lowered by the factory method; both are reversible.
Quote:
I noticed that when I got on it the suspension went down quite a bit (185 lbs.). This doesn't seem right, but I've never sat on a DR650 before. Sure, OK, so it's a Japanese bike, and we all know they spring them for anorexic japanese teen-agers... so I don't mind switching springs up front, but I'm going to guess the rear spring will cost me dearly to get it up to par.
The DR rear suspension leverages the spring and makes the initial travel feel soft (read it on the internet). The stock spring rate is 'ok' for my 180 lbs. (barely); but I like being able to touch the ground with at least one foot.

Quote:
This will be a initially re-geared (with, what, a 17-tooth front sprocket?) slab-commuting bike expected to do Florida speeds (I'll need to work the suspension to be stable at 80 MPH, or faster, and it will get road tires on the rims for now... it has what look like original Bridgestone tires on it).
I haven't seen a 17t for the DR and I'm not sure it will clear the case in front of the CSS. I like what the 16t countershaft sprocket does for my highway comfort.

Quote:
2.) it has a Corbin seat (again, ugly blue and yellow), but color me shocked when I found out how soft it is... Unexpected and disappointing for a Corbin - I expected that high-quality firm foam support from them (I own a Corbin on another bike), and can't imagine this one is any better than a stock soft-foam saddle so many bikes come with. So this seems wrong as well.
My 2004 Corbin is too firm for my boney ole butt, but we're all different.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 09:41 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:42 PM   #64167
smilin jack
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Replacing pick-up coil on DR

Got the pick-up coil a few days back and got to the task of installing it today.

1. Drain engine oil and loosen skid plate enough to allow clearance when sliding the stator cover (engine side cover)

2. Remove shift lever

3. Remove the 11 bolts that hold on the stator cover. I used a cardboard box with a rough sketch to keep track of where they all came


4. Slide stator cover out carefully so you are not picking up starter gears, washers and bearings. Don't ask how I know


5. Get your gasket removing tools (old credit cards, dull butter knife etc) Don't want to scratch up the aluminum

6. Remove old pick-up coil. My screws needed an impact driver to get them out.

7. Install new pick-up coil. Snip the blue and green wires just outside of the rubber grommet. Slide on the fiber tube on the new wires and push the new wires thru the grommet holes.

8. Strip about 1/2" of insulation on all four wires and slide on a 2" piece of snug fitting shrink tubing on each wire. This ends up with two layers of shrink tubing over the repaired joint.

9. Twist the new red wire to the OEM green wire and solder. These connections are outside of the engine.


10. Twist the new white wire to the OEM blue wire and solder. These connections are also outside of the engine. Slide 1st piece over joint, shrink, then slide second piece of shrink tube over joint and shrink it too.

11. Lightly grease both sides of the new OEM paper gasket, being careful not to tear it. The grease helps hold it in place on the engine and will not bond as the OEM gasket did. That wasn't any fun scraping old paper off the cover.

12. Place the stator cover back in place. Careful and expect the BIG MAGNET to jerk it from your hands.

13. Make sure the cover is in proper place and begin installing the 11 bolts in place. A dab of grease will keep them from "freezing" in place.

14. Replace engine oil and filter

15. Start engine. Mine ran great. Turn engine off and put bike back together. (seat, side covers, shift lever, skid plate etc)

16. Take for a test ride. I'm back on the road again... Hells Canyon here we come... it's next month.

This pick-up install could be done in the field using crimp on wire connectors. It took me several hours and a parts run for new metric screws.
My new pick-up coil came from
http://RegulatorRectifier.com

My 2006 DR650se had 41K when the pick-up coil went bad. It measured 0 ohms (open circuit) at the CDI box plug. I used the Service Manual trouble shooting directions on pages 6-16 thru 6-20 to diagnose the problem of no spark/no starting.

EDIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hey Dave, I think you missed a few steps!

Which "screws" come out?
Where is the Pick Up Coil? Attached to Stator?
Where is the new Coil for comparison?
Does the whole Stator come out?
How does the Pick UP coil disconnect/re-connect from/to the Stator?

Thanks!
Yes, seems some of the steps you speak of should have been put in.
I had the new pick-up coil in hand so found the OEM pick-up coil screwed inside of the stator cover. It was held in place with two Philips screws. The stator is not disturbed.
The pick-up coil is not part of the stator. It is off to the side of the stator. The magnet (round disk on the end of the crankshaft fits in between the stator and pick-up coil.
The two wires from the pick-up coil pass thru a rubber grommet to exit the stator cover and continue inside the wiring harness to the CDI box.

Dave

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 05-13-2012 at 12:15 AM
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #64168
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks so mu Kommando, and you too alonzo.

I just made a call on this one:

2002 DR650



Certainly older, and more stock, but with a DG exhaust, jetted with a 160, and lower miles. Might be able to get it for the mid-$2000 range.

I don't know about these super-low-mile DR's here in Florida... seems tough to believe. Anyone happen to know of a compression number or range for a low-mile DR650? I may bring a compression tester to test it.

And thanks for the reminder about the Corbins not fitting larger tanks well, Kommando - a large tank a must for what I do with it. I like the options you gave, and can see going that route.
Mambo,
Forget about checking compression and start reading this thread to find out what counts ... right now, based on your previous post and comments ... looks like you're chasing Ghosts.

The one pictured above looks fine. These motors don't wear out. But that said, it's five minutes to disconnect the speedo cable. Have an experienced mechanic or friend check the bike out and look for tell tales of high mileage or hidden damage. The older '02 uses the paper base gasket. So you may have to change it if its leaking. Not all leak, some do. No big deal.

Responses to your earlier post:
1. 5'2" girls ride the DR650 OK. What are you worried about?
2. You are right about springs ... but neither are very expensive and you might find used ones (TIP: Springs never wear out) Firm up both ends for under $200. Read DR650 index threads.
3. The DR650 gearing is just fine STOCK. I've done many 400 mile days, back to back, holding it at 80 mph indicated for hours and hours and hours. If you are really sensitive, you may want to go with a 16T front, I'm not even sure a 17T will fit. This is not an issue.
4. Corbin. Something is wrong with that seat. Send it back and they will fix it ... most likely for free or cheap. My Corbin is leather covered (the best) and very firm at six years old and 45,000 miles. NO OIL USE.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:51 PM   #64169
smilin jack
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CR9E Plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by wvboy View Post
Is anybody running CR9E plugs? I tried to find the CR10E's locally and NOBODY has them, not even the suzy dealer.

I put in a couple of the 9's and went on a short ride and it seems to run fine.
My 2006 DR had 4K miles when I got it. After many thousands more miles, replaced the plugs... the PO had the CR9E in the bike. I put in some new CR10E plugs from ProCycle and it does run noticeably cooler. The bike has 41K now and runs great... after putting in the new pick-up coil today. Guess that's the first thing to check if the bike won't start.

Dave
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #64170
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Found a plastic soda straw or two in the tool box works well to blow the dirt from around the spark plugs and other tight places. Have even used a soda straw as a nut starter/nut driver in hard to reach places.

Dave
Also consider a very small telescoping magnet. If I have it available, I use compressed air to start with. Then pull plug ... very carefully. Then I use my tiny magnet to collect any sand or debris the compressed air missed from around the plug hole.
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