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Old 05-12-2012, 09:20 PM   #64216
powderpig
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: The 'Claw, WA
Oddometer: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Got the pick-up coil a few days back and got to the task of installing it today.

1. Drain engine oil and loosen skid plate enough to allow clearance when sliding the stator cover (engine side cover)

2. Remove shift lever

3. Remove the 11 bolts that hold on the stator cover. I used a cardboard box with a rough sketch to keep track of where they all came


4. Slide stator cover out carefully so you are not picking up starter gears, washers and bearings. Don't ask how I know


5. Get your gasket removing tools (old credit cards, dull butter knife etc) Don't want to scratch up the aluminum

6. Remove old pick-up coil. My screws needed an impact driver to get them out.

7. Install new pick-up coil. Snip the blue and green wires just outside of the rubber grommet. Slide on the fiber tube on the new wires and push the new wires thru the grommet holes.

8. Strip about 1/2" of insulation on all four wires and slide on a 2" piece of snug fitting shrink tubing on each wire.

9. Twist the new red wire to the OEM green wire and solder. These connections are outside of the engine.


10. Twist the new white wire to the OEM blue wire and solder. These connections are also outside of the engine.

11. Lightly grease both sides of the new OEM paper gasket, being careful not to tear it. The grease helps hold it in place on the engine and will not bond as the OEM gasket did. That wasn't any fun scraping old paper off the cover.

12. Place the stator cover back in place. Careful and expect the BIG MAGNET to jerk it from your hands.

13. Make sure the cover is in proper place and begin installing the 11 bolts in place. A dab of grease will keep them from "freezing" in place.

14. Replace engine oil and filter

15. Start engine. Mine ran great. Turn engine off and put bike back together. (seat, side covers, shift lever, skid plate etc)

16. Take for a test ride. I'm back on the road again... Hells Canyon here we come... it's next month.

This pick-up install could be done in the field using crimp on wire connectors. It took me several hours and a parts run for new metric screws.
My new pick-up coil came from
http://RegulatorRectifier.com

Dave
Great post! Thanks for taking the time to detail your install.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #64217
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Just thought I would let everyone know: DO NOT WASH YOUR DR WITH SUPER CLEAN! Even diluted it stained a lot of stuff. Took me an hour just to get the white off the rims. On a side note.... The dirt and gunk hosed right off. Live and learn.
Is Super Clean like Simple Green? Is it an Alkaline base type cleaner?

I use Made In Germany S-100. (also an Alkaline base cleaner, I think) You can never use on a hot motor and never leave bike in the Sun. You have to be very careful on any sort of Aluminum or Magnesium. It will stain and pit it.
I constantly re-wet it ... with just a lite mist to keep it working. Once it dries you could have trouble.
Always rinse very well.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #64218
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Ideally I would find a higher horsepower version of the DR (oh, I don't know... like if Africa Twins were common in this country?), or even the KLE500 would probably do well (again, never sold in this country - I've been starving for a multi-cylinder true dual-sport for quite a while now... like decades). So I have to settle for a single cylinder. So then my choices are something exotic that has funny expensive parts that wear out before they should (KTM, BMW Dakar), or go with the tried and true, then get a 790 kit for it and hope that fits the bill.
Read this thread before you long for an Africa Twin or F800 or F650 BMW!
This guy is traveling though S. America with the AT and BMW riders. The DR has been the most reliable of the bunch. (no real surprise given the tough conditions) A great ride report:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627428

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
And thank you, as well, Grifter.
You're welcome!
The Spring is just the start. The stock shock should be rebuilt or replaced . But for droning Fla freeways ... a heavier spring will do to start.

"No Oil use" refers to my engine. After you've read a few hundred pages here you'll see the pattern. These bike rarely lose compression and rarely use any oil. Period.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #64219
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
LOL, I bet it gets even better/worse when I'd ask a similar question mid-winter when I'm out riding and most people here are snowed in.




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:48 PM   #64220
Fitryder
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Sydney
Oddometer: 64
Snapped axel holder bolts

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knew where to get some spare axle holder bolts (front suspension)

Got a little too keen when tightening and snapped one clean off and noticed the other one had some cracking so thought I would also replace it.

Basically screwed them out (they are not welded on in case some thought they were)

Now just after some spare bolts but god they are hard to find. If all else fails I will just go to the hardware store and cut some screws down to size but prefer the genuine part.

Oh and yes, I have since invested in a torque wrench

Anyway, pic below of the bolts I'm after.



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Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #64221
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 421
Wicked Wtf!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post




What is that white shit it looks like an outbreak! hope it never comes to Peoria AZ.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:01 PM   #64222
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Not DR related but F-up!

My son is getting ready to go to UTI to become a Diesel mechanic he is a disabled Iraq vet so he received a letter today from the VA that he is declined because he did not contribute into his account from 1970 to 1974 he poped out of the x-wifes snapper in 1986 this Army and VA is F-UP!
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:03 PM   #64223
notarat
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Location: Bluff City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
Is there any way to hard wire a GPS that would normally use a cigarette lighter plug? Can you just cut off the plug and splice the wires or is there some sort of a transformer in that plug? I'm thinking specifically of a basic Garmin unit meant for cars.

Thanks!
Check to see if you can find the pin-out/wiring diagram of the the 12v Cigarette lighter plug you mentioned. then just use the 12v, remote, and ground if those are all you need. I can't help there because I haven't yet ripped my power cable apart.

As for the wiring, here's a very basic how-to, depending on whether you use an SPDT or SPST relay to wire it up.



Some Important Things to Remember

1 - The stock lighting, ignition and battery charging consumes about 140 watts of the DR650s power output. You only have about 55-60 watts to use, unless you have replaced your incandescent bulbs with LEDs.

2 - Convert your wattage load to AMPS to determine the size(thickness) of the wiring to use. The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

Example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp You have ~50watts to play with so...you have only about 4 amps and change to power your electronics with.

3 - You can use a standard 12V 40Amp relay like those in a car...just remember that if you do not fuse it properly, you can pull far more power than your bike can generate causing a dead battery.


Generic Example of very basic wiring connection below. using a 12v 40A SPST Relay with a detailed explanation following (Ignore valet switch info...pulled this schematic from a car alarm site)


Using a Relay to Power a 12v Socket to Power/Charge an Accessory like iPod/ Phone or GPS or Charger



SPST Relay - 1 or more outlets powered when the Key is On

  • Pole 30 - Add up the wattage of the items you're going to be powering, making sure NOT to exceed ~50watts (unless you replaced all your bulbs with LEDs) Convert that amount to amps to determine the size of the fuse you'll need for the inline fuse. Place the fuse between the 12v POSITIVE of your battery and Pole 30. Place that fuse as close to the battery as possible. Use the appropriate gauge of wire for this cable. (NOTE: The Shorai Li battery is so small you can place the relay and inline fuse in the battery box with the battery.)
  • Pole 85 -- Connect to your battery's NEGATIVE terminal. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. (You can choose to connect this to the NEGATIVE connector of the extra power connection that is behind the headlight. Personally, I wouldn't)
  • Pole 87 - The wire coming out of Pole 87 is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. If your electronic item has a remote IN wire in addition to 12v + and - you can connect it to this connection. (example: Car Amplifier has + and - and REM...you can connect + and REM to this pole and both will receive 12v when the key is in the ON position)
  • Pole 86 - Connect this to the 12v + connector of the extra power plug behind the headlight, using the same gauge wire as your other wires. When the key is turned to the ON position, it flips the relay inside and sends power to Pole 87 straight from the battery to your accessory outlet. When you turn off the key, the relay flips back to stand-by, cutting power to anything that you had connected to 87, turning the power off.

Here's where it can get fun, and frustrating...

SPDT Relay - 1 or more outlets powered when the Key is in the ON position, and 1 or more outlets powered ONLY when the Key is in the OFF position(i.e.Constant 12v Power).

  • Pole 30 - Add up the wattage of the items you're going to be powering, making sure NOT to exceed ~50watts (unless you replaced all your bulbs with LEDs) Convert that amount to amps to determine the size of the fuse you'll need for the inline fuse. Place the fuse between the 12v POSITIVE of your battery and Pole 30. Place that fuse as close to the battery as possible. Use the appropriate gauge of wire for this cable. (NOTE: The Shorai Li battery is so small you can place the relay and inline fuse in the battery box with the battery.)
  • Pole 85 -- Connect to your battery's NEGATIVE terminal. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. (You can choose to connect this to the NEGATIVE connector of the extra power connection that is behind the headlight. Personally, I wouldn't)
  • Pole 87 - The wire coming out of Pole 87 is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. If your electronic item has a remote IN wire in addition to 12v + and - you can connect it to this connection. (example: Car Amplifier has + and - and REM...you can connect + and REM to this pole and both will receive 12v when the key is in the OFF position)
  • Pole 86 - Connect this to the 12v + connector of the extra power plug behind the headlight, using the same gauge wire as your other wires. When the key is turned to the ON position, it flips the relay inside and sends power straight from the battery + to your accessory outlet(s). When you turn off the key, the relay flips back to stand-by, cutting power to anything that you had connected to 87, turning them off...It then energizes any outlets connected to 87a. KEEP IN MIND that 87a is ALWAYS ENERGIZED when the key is in the OFF position.
  • Pole 87a - The wire coming out of Pole 87a is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. In this instance, It ONLY does so when the Key is in the OFF position.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:04 PM   #64224
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
What is that white shit it looks like an outbreak! hope it never comes to Peoria AZ.
Yeah, well, I'll be riding for the next four months while you're hiding in the nearest air conditioned movie theater.
Wednesday at 11,600 feet fer instance:

__________________
2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 10:30 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:16 PM   #64225
notarat
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Bluff City
Oddometer: 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
My son is getting ready to go to UTI to become a Diesel mechanic he is a disabled Iraq vet so he received a letter today from the VA that he is declined because he did not contribute into his account from 1970 to 1974 he poped out of the x-wifes snapper in 1986 this Army and VA is F-UP!
Just have him fax them a copy of one of his LES statements showing the entry where he paid in, and possibly copy4 (Service member's copy) of his DD-214 showing his dates of service.

If they're anything like us Navy types they'll hand the updated paperwork to someone whose head isn't up their ass and get it processed and approved that day most likely.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:20 PM   #64226
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 421
Nope!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Yeah, well, I'll be riding for the next four months while you're hiding in the nearest air conditioned movie theater.
I have a cooling vest and I ride all year around! next week I will be riding up to prescott with my son and camping in the woods riding up the back way yarnell hill. and the next week I will be doing a hot desert ride to the sea of cortez, MX via Ajo and back around to san carlos mx and Tucson. the hotter the better as I work out in the heat every day till june-2016 retirerment!

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 10:35 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:32 PM   #64227
zdiver1
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 421
He reapplied today online!

Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
Just have him fax them a copy of one of his LES statements showing the entry where he paid in, and possibly copy4 (Service member's copy) of his DD-214 showing his dates of service.

If they're anything like us Navy types they'll hand the updated paperwork to someone whose head isn't up their ass and get it processed and approved that day most likely.
It took him a year to get his disabilty (60 %) he had a purple heart a bronze star and two army
accommodation medals. and Arizona makes him pay $25. extra. a year for his Purple heart plate. This is F-UP

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-13-2012 at 07:15 AM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:34 PM   #64228
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,215
Pick-up Coil Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post


Awesome Dave. Please copy this into Krusty's DR650 index. Perhaps under Problems/Failures since the DR is getting some higher mileages now-a-days. (yours had how many?)

Great tip on being able to do this in the field.
2006 DR had 41K miles when the pick-up coil had an open circuit. The symptoms were no spark, no start, no run.

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 05-16-2012 at 07:40 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:48 PM   #64229
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #64230
LexTalionis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Also consider a very small telescoping magnet. If I have it available, I use compressed air to start with. Then pull plug ... very carefully. Then I use my tiny magnet to collect any sand or debris the compressed air missed from around the plug hole.
Hey, Adv Grifter, I need an education on this. I've walked on and laid on lots of sand, but none have been magnetic, to my knowledge. My understanding is, sand is generally silicon dioxide and / or calcium carbonate. I believe neither of these compounds are magnetic. Neither are common "dirt" and small pebbles. What say you?

Also, personally, I use ~200psi to blow out the area around the plugs before removal; there's no way anything will be left for a "tiny magnet" to pick up.

Lex
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