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Old 05-15-2012, 07:29 AM   #64336
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I would think the torque spec in the factory RM service manual would be applicable. Don't know what that spec might be but that should be the basis for your search. When you get the correct torque spec write it down somewhere like in your DR service manual under front suspension or somewhere in your owners manual.

I used to write the torque specs of all the common fasteners on a piece of making tape and place it inside my torque wrench carrying case.

Tech23

Torque specs are based on the BOLT- not what it is holding. The torque spec places the bolt in the proper stretch/tension to correctly hold a part. Torque numbers are based on bolt size/ material/ thread pitch. I would find what the bolt reccomends and go with that.

Ofcourse, what I find in the engine world is great bolts/fastners like ARP have higher torque numbers then the stock bolts; but the are getting bolted into an engine block that is 35-40 years old and the threads are just in the cast iron. Then you have to step back and punt! I will usually step back to the stock torque numbers and use something like blue locktight. Motorcycles can be the same: you can have the greatest bolt in the world but the threads it goes into are just in cast alumn. Sometimes you just have to use a little common sense.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:54 AM   #64337
sagebrushocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Thanks sage, If you let the throttle snap back under it's own spring pressure it doesn't want to stick at idle?
Nope.

Quote:
Wouldn't happen to have any pictures comparing the stock DR throttle tube to the R6 tube would you?
No, sorry. It's a pretty small investment to get one and have a look at it yourself.

Quote:
I suppose the part is only available with the grip already mounted to the tube. Is the R6 grip is glued on,
Yes, or at least it didn't move when I checked to see if it was glued.

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Does the R6 part have flanges molded into the tube at each end for grip retention like the stock DR tube?
IIRC it doesn't. I was concerned about that when I installed the R6 grip, but it has never caused a problem.

One more thing. If you look at the R6 fiches on ronayers.com the part numbers (and prices) are different across years. I don't know if there are year-to-year detail differences that might be responsible for the issues that some have had when using the R6 throttle tube on the DR650. Anyhow, I posted the part number that I used (without issue).
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:00 AM   #64338
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Blokes,
After a some of runs down some reasonable dirt roads I have reached a couple of conclusions.

1) I enjoyed the bush and the wilderness soo much I have deceided that I could get used to this off road lark.

2) After dropping it a couple of times, I have decieded that my ducati multistrada 1200S is waaay to purdy and expensive to fix to take off road.

I have come to the conclusion that i need another bike. I was thinking of getting a DR650 as I hear that they are cheap to buy, simple, cheap to service and run.

I would like to do some adventure touring. Would the DR650 do the job?? what should I be looking for in a second hand one?

As nothing is perfect, where does the DR have problems?

Thanks in advance.......

OZ
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:01 AM   #64339
Motodeficient
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An additional note on the throttle tubes:

If you have the black R6 throttle tube, the part number is 5SL-26240-01 and its the smaller cam 1/5 turn tube from the older R6, the R6S, or the R1. If you have the white R6 throttle tube, the part number is 2C0-26240-00-00 this is the larger cam 1/6 turn from the newer R6.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:17 AM   #64340
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oz_johnno View Post
Blokes,
After a some of runs down some reasonable dirt roads I have reached a couple of conclusions.

1) I enjoyed the bush and the wilderness soo much I have deceided that I could get used to this off road lark.

2) After dropping it a couple of times, I have decieded that my ducati multistrada 1200S is waaay to purdy and expensive to fix to take off road.

I have come to the conclusion that i need another bike. I was thinking of getting a DR650 as I hear that they are cheap to buy, simple, cheap to service and run.

I would like to do some adventure touring. Would the DR650 do the job?? what should I be looking for in a second hand one?

As nothing is perfect, where does the DR have problems?

Thanks in advance.......

OZ
welcome! a fine choice, the dr650.

here is a good place to start:

http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

then, you can ask questions to flesh out anything you may wanna know more of, re: particluar issues/mods/etc. or, search this thread, as almost everything has likely already been discussed. several times.

me, personally, i think a few mods are yust about mandatory - new seat, new suspension parts, new carb and exhaust. actually, only the seat is truly mandatory, imo, but the other mods really improve the bike to make is so much better... if you are under 150lbs and don't plan on loading the bike up much, suspension mods may not be as necessary, oh, and gas tank mod is also good, as 3.4g /13l isn't much capacity.

doug s.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:43 AM   #64341
oz_johnno
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Thanks for the reply Doug,
naaah I anticipate the need to upgrade the suspension parts. Im about 240 pounds in my birthday suit, so suspension is going to be a must.

Cheers

OZ
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:57 AM   #64342
asrvivor
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Exhaust Bolts

Well I lost an exhaust bolt last night. What are the dimensions of the exhaust bolts? I will need to pick one up today. Also does anyone know of thread locker that can withstand the heat of the exhaust?

Thanks
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:14 AM   #64343
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Did you already have it out or did it fall out? Just wondering because had all I could do to even get mine out at all?

I replaced both of them but I don't remember what the thread pitch and length was. I was going to get stainless to help prevent rust but I changed my mind because I was afraid of the dissimilar metal issue.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:18 AM   #64344
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Did you already have it out or did it fall out? Just wondering because had all I could do to even get mine out at all?

I replaced both of them but I don't remember what the thread pitch and length was. I was going to get stainless to help prevent rust but I changed my mind because I was afraid of the dissimilar metal issue.
Since I put the FMF complete system on they keep coming loose. Damn things have to be tightened every ride. Aggravating to say the least. I guess I'll just pull the other one out and take it up with me. My head temp is getting really high now and I think the expansion and contraction are making them loose. More tools to carry. :loll

Oh yes it fell out on the freeway last night. Sounded cool for the rest of the ride, but pretty loud.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:36 AM   #64345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
. Also does anyone know of thread locker that can withstand the heat of the exhaust?

Thanks
The typical Loctite blue that we all seem to use, either #242 or the 243, loses half it's holding strength when temps hit 212 Fahrenheit. They will still hold, but as temps get even hotter, like around 300 plus degrees the strength is down to about 45 percent of its original strength. Still not bad though.
The Loctite #272 is high temp threadlocker, about 450 degrees F, but requires heat and hand tools for removal, similar to red thread lock.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:38 AM   #64346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Since I put the FMF complete system on they keep coming loose. Damn things have to be tightened every ride. Aggravating to say the least. I guess I'll just pull the other one out and take it up with me. My head temp is getting really high now and I think the expansion and contraction are making them loose. More tools to carry. :loll

Oh yes it fell out on the freeway last night. Sounded cool for the rest of the ride, but pretty loud.
When I put my FMF full on, I replace the hardware with stainless and got a longer hanger bolt so I could add a nylon locknut on the back side. Holds very tight now, not going anywhere.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:40 AM   #64347
Motodeficient
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Wait are we talking about the bolts that hold the headpipe to the head? Or the headpipe to the midpipe. I was thinking he meant the header bolts.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:42 AM   #64348
Go Irish75
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Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Wait are we talking about the bolts that hold the headpipe to the head? Or the headpipe to the midpipe. I was thinking he meant the header bolts.
Ohhhh, I was off then. I guess I wasn't sure. Lol. Never had a bolt back out of a header before. I guess some high temp Loctite like the 272 wouldn't be a bad idea in there.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:43 AM   #64349
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LOL yeah maybe I misread his post though. Not sure.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #64350
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
LOL yeah maybe I misread his post though. Not sure.
The head bolts is what I meant. Should have been more clear. Sorry I'll try the blue lock tight to start.
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