the DR650 thread

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by 996DL

Just finished spooning on my first set of Shinko 705's, those of you experienced with these popular tires on the DR, for pure roadie use including high speed highway travel, lightly loaded with a 200 lb rider, should I just stick with the DR's oem 22 front 25 psi rear specs or ?...

996DL

26f/28r to 28f/30r for road.

20f/18r for offroad.

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

26f/28r to 28f/30r for road.

Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.

Not needed with a lightly loaded DR.

[greer]

Epoxy Putty. Thanks, Steve

Sarah

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Silicone products are not a good idea to use where petrol/gasoline are nearby.

Back in the early 1970s I had a second hand Mazda R100 rotary and reassembled the leaky 4bbl carb with with the then new miracle seal anything Silastic. Not agood idea.....

Some epoxy putty will work fine. Leave a small 'head' on it so if it loosens, it can't fall through.

And I like my FCR39 too.

Steve

[996DL]

Thanks all, for the input on the Shinko 705's running pressures.

Went to the trouble / stress, of finally utilizing my unused till now, Faast Company adjustable spoke torque wrench. The Suzuki oem spoke torque values, are listed as 3 ft/lbs / 36 inch/lbs front and rear.
Both wheels are now dialed in...

996DL

[bull600]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Yes, I noticed that it has a non-replaceable battery.
However, it is supposed to last 5 year so at $10 a year it seems reasonable to me.
If I found another small, affordable tach that used a replaceable battery I would go for it.
Considering I will probably break anything I install, cheap is good for me

I bought one of these a little over 2 years ago from TopGun Motorcyles with the bracket and really like it



I have a Garmin GPS for speed etc on longer trip so the vapor would be overkill and they're still 3 times the price here in Oz.

Bike now has 35k on the speedo and the hour meter on the tacho has just passed 500 hours. Only problem I've ever had is it will sometimes give an inaccurate reading for a while after doing deep water crossings when the wire pick up on the spark cable gets wet.

Cheers

[Rumlover]

I have had my Tinytach for almost 5 years. No problems. Can be hard to see at times, but it is what it is --- relatively cheap and reliable. Mine is a little slow -- the reading lags about a half second when accelerating. But I didn't get it for speed shifting, mostly for tuning and to get an idea of the RPMs when cruising.

It's not really needed on the DR, but I couldn't stand not having a tach on a motorcycle. Just seems wrong.

They would probably sale a lot more if they actually had a unit that powered off the bike's battery or at least had a replaceable battery.

[ThumptyDumpty]

Cleaning out the garage...Selling my Corbin seat amd IMS Tank off my '99 DR650 in the Flea Market..

I need to find an oil filter cover for my '99 as well.. Any recomendations that might be cheaper than my local Dealer ?

Thanks

[Rugby4life]

Originally Posted by AST236

Met a fellow DR rider this afternoon, Rugby4life, on his way from SC to New Orleans. He was riding his DR, loaded down and makin' tracks.

Safe travels buddy and call me before you head home so I can give you a more scenic route option for the return trip.

I really enjoyed meeting you also. It was a timely break to refresh myself (and dry out a little). I was amazed at how similar our lives are and thanks for the encouragement to keep plugging away at my studies. Remember when I said that DR stands for Doesn't Refuse whatever you ask it to do? Well, when I got to NOLA I gave it a look over and found the CCT gasket leaking. Right now it's just a nuisance weep but I'll keep an eye on my oil level until I can get home and fix it properly. Looking forward to taking the road less traveled on the way home.

[FatChance]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

LOL, I bet it gets even better/worse when I'd ask a similar question mid-winter when I'm out riding and most people here are snowed in.

It gets real miserable here in the summer. Sometimes it gets to almost 90 degrees and the humidity can climb to 10%.

[notarat]

Originally Posted by FatChance

It gets real miserable here in the summer. Sometimes it gets to almost 90 degrees and the humidity can climb to 10%.

I hate you. 119°F + 90%+ humidity = a heat index of ~140°f or thereabouts...

[fizzerfz1]

Originally Posted by Tech23

fizzerfz1 Please tell me you didn't willingly walk into a store to purchase that "Ronco one size fits all socket" with the intent of working on your motorcycle. Someone was holding a gun to your head......right?

If you should need to replace the clutch cover, the price would have easily covered a set of 1/4 metric sockets deep and shallow, a ratchet and assorted extensions. I know I could never trust a JB welded clutch cover to keep motor oil off my rear tire.

Tech23

Nope. I had the universal socket from a long time and just used it without thinking too much...you can also call it as being lazy...

I am not going to replace the cover. Doesn't seem that bad. I will just put this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/j-b-stik-weld-93957.html (I already have this) or JB weld if necessary.

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

Yea, cheese and crackers man ! Look at that socket size he used . Use 1/4 inch drive 8mm socket next time. 10nm. He is using a sledge hammer to drive a finishing nail !

Its an upper bolt so he'll probably get away with it like you said Z. Maybe.

Yup, cheese cracker it is. And the socket is not as big as it looks in the pic, but it IS big for the said job. If you read my original post about this issue, I had actaully put up this picture as a caution to others and suggestions on how to avoid it.

Agree on the 1/4 inch drive socket and have already bought and used it successfully and even put the whole together. Bike is riding perfect now, even without a bolt at the place where I broke it. No oil leaks so far.

I will post pics when I am done with the JB weld fix.

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by ADV8

Did I mention the time in 1983 when working on my 81 Z1000J (refitting the newly ported head) and trying to torque one of the 6 mm bolts on the end of each head to 105 ft/lbs torque.
That was the day I learned about looking more closely at the manual and what " in/lbs " were.
I still remember thinking at the time,they must be special steel.

LOL that would be beyond tough steel.

Back in the early eighties at work while assembling a VW cylinder head mounted in the special tool that holds the valves up so the springs and keepers may be easily assembled...not thinking I proceeded to install the camshaft and torque down the cam bearing caps. With the head still bolted to the special tool and no way for the valves to open I snapped that camshaft like a twig.....Oppps. Yea never did that again.

My boss was pretty cool though...one day he walks over to my work station and see's I'm replacing a leaking crankshaft oil seal behind the timing belt sprocket. He say's to me..."Don't forget to torque that crank sprocket bolt to blue torque!" He had been in the Military and I was just a kid that looked up to him, I'm thinking there must be some Military type application for "blue torque". Not knowing what he was talking about and not wanting to screw something up I asked him....What's blue torque?? He says to me "tighten that sucker till your face turns blue", laughs and pats me on the back. True story.

Tech23

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Or torquing the steering triple clamp bolts to spec in my 1400GTR and thinking it was a lot. Proved that the manual is wrong by breaking one.

We've all broken something.

Steve

Over tightening Triple Clamp bolts is especially bad ... its easy to "crush" the delicate (and expensive) fork tube. Not good!

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by fizzerfz1

Nope. I had the universal socket from a long time and just used it without thinking too much...you can also call it as being lazy...

I am not going to replace the cover. Doesn't seem that bad. I will just put this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/j-b-stik-weld-93957.html (I already have this) or JB weld if necessary.



Yup, cheese cracker it is. And the socket is not as big as it looks in the pic, but it IS big for the said job. If you read my original post about this issue, I had actaully put up this picture as a caution to others and suggestions on how to avoid it.

Agree on the 1/4 inch drive socket and have already bought and used it successfully and even put the whole together. Bike is riding perfect now, even without a bolt at the place where I broke it. No oil leaks so far.

I will post pics when I am done with the JB weld fix.

Chalk it up to experience. Like the others have said being up top you'll likely be OK. At least it will be easy to monitor for any oil seepage if any at all. Still will have to that that area with kid gloves on any future removal/service.

Over the years I have repaired customers vehicles with two part epoxy's. IIRC my boss kept a product on hand called Marine Tex. I believe it was used for boat hull repair. After it had cured you could drill and tap it. This was something the customer elected to do to save money on a new transmission case half after their clutch came apart scraping a groove into the case causing gear oil to leak into the bell housing. Just filling a groove...not gluing a broken off piece back on. I think you will need to be sure that the bolt hole opening where the head of the case bolt makes contact is as flat/smooth as possible (no excess JB weld squishing out). The bolt must be able to apply an even clamping force or it could break the repair.

Tech23