the DR650 thread

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!

I'm surprised that you're finding loose bolts. The only two I had trouble with were the two holding the heat shield on the pipe by your right ankle. Are you sure you aren't thinking of yer buddy's KLR? I think I've checked my spokes a dozen times in 32k miles, only found a few that needed a little tightening. Have you been bouncing this thing off of the rev limiter for those 3k miles? (it gets buzzy up there)

I put blue Locktite on any bolts or screws I take out, for whatever reason, like farkles.

Harbor Freight has 1/16" drill bits, pack of 10, for $KLR cheap. Seems someone said to drill an allen head from both sides, not straight through. I've done it that way for 'awhile'. Make sure you start close enough to the edge so that the bit doesn't hit the solid center of the head. If it does, it will probably break when it 'turns' into the center of the head.

I drilled mine with an electric drill, bolts clamped in a vise. Gently, let the bit cut its way through. Watch your drill alignment and remember it's a 1/16" bit, just the weight of the drill will break it if you push crooked.

[suguzzi]

Originally Posted by ADV8

http://www.happy-trail.com/Departmen...ubes-Only.aspx


A 4.25/4.5 or 5.00/5.10 will fit in either size tyre.
I just noticed Happy trails stock the same tubes I have been getting locally IRC and Kings.
They are good tubes,running Heavy Duty is debatable but have done so on the front on occasions.
The only thing I can not remember is which brand I patched (with no problems)
Note some are not pure rubber.

Thanks ADV8, I forgot about Happy Trails. They are ordered and I'm a happy camper.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

Yep.

When I set my 18" up I used the disc as the reference point. Can't remember the numbers, but put a straight edge along the disc and measure to each side of the rim to locate the rim centre relative to the disc. then repeat with the new rim.

Measuring to the swingarm from the rim assumes the snail cams are right, and if they don't change, allow some form of repeatability, but its better, ie more accurate, to do it off the disc.

Steve

I also found on some Suzuki's the engine case part line was the centre of the bike.
Not gospel on all models though.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by ADV8

I also found on some Suzuki's the engine case part line was the centre of the bike.
Not gospel on all models though.

And that's not the standard swingarm?

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by suguzzi

Does anybody know the different size tubes that will work in the 120 or 130 17" rear? I have been trying to buy a spare for a trip to Alaska next month and having a hard time finding of the logical sizing. Have looked at several sites as well as calling Janet and Jessy to no avail. Any one know some alternate sizes that will work with no problems? Thanks in advance.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...cle-Tube/TUBES
Bridgestone Heavy Duty Motorcycle Tube 110/100x18
Part# 1002890002
Our price: $24.99

[suguzzi]

Originally Posted by jon_l

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...cle-Tube/TUBES
Bridgestone Heavy Duty Motorcycle Tube 110/100x18
Part# 1002890002
Our price: $24.99

Rocky MT, bought out our local multi- Jap bike dealer and I went there this morning and they did have the 21" but did not have anything close for the rear, did not know the 18 would work. Thanks, all taken care of now. Got to love this forum.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

And that's not the standard swingarm?

At the time 2003.
1998 TL1000S
2002 GSXR 1000 front end with Ducati 996 wheel.
2002 996 SSSA with its wheel and TL1000R Ohlins shock.

The frame lugs needed cutting which I did and then machined a lapping mandrel so they were perpendicular to the pivot.

Way off topic of DR's but in the line of anything will fit if you want it to.
Measurements are a good start.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by ADV8

At the time 2003.

Way off topic of DR's but in the line of anything will fit if you want it to.
Measurements are a good start.

Nice work!

Measurements. In one of my lives I am/was a surveyor and did lots of precise measurements setting up hydro turbines and shafts and measuring movements of dams and other major civil structures. Measurements, interesting stuff.

Steve

[GaThumper]

Originally Posted by fizzerfz1

Here's my experience, I initially did the DJ kit and was happy with it for a couple years, then when I put in the FCR39, which as you may already know is very close to the TM40, the difference was incredible...

Stock carb --

DJ Kit --

FCR39 --

+1,000,000,000,000

The FCR is amazing to me, FINALLY, a dual sport with the throttle response I've been missing! Reminds me of my old TT500/600 or my KTMs. I've been unhappy (and didn't know why) with my DRZ400, DR350, and my first DR650 before installing the FCR on my second DR650. The finess of the Keihin FCR is worth every penny it cost me.

I rode the first big group ds ride this weekend on the DR since installing the FCR and you couldn't get the grin off my face with a belt sander. Smooth as an electric motor, throttle control to lift the front wheel over ruts and roots, and power wheelies all day long! Got asked by other riders what I had done to my DR to make the front come up so easily. FCR Carb and 14 tooth CS are a great combo!

The best thing though is the throttle response from idle, such smooth, instant power delivery, if I wanted to I could stay in 2nd and 3rd gear as I slowed for switchbacks and then just roll on the throttle, no need to downshift unless I wanted to.
Thank You! MXRob for all your efforts getting the FCR dialed in for the big DR!

[Mongle]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!

When I was doing track days with the GSXR I used one of these for safty wire. Bikemaster drill guide:




Overkill for the DR in my opinion. Just use some blue loctite. Or if you never want to take it apart again without a propane burner... use the red or green.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!

What bolt on the DR would not stay put with a dab of blue Loctite ?

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I'm surprised that you're finding loose bolts. The only two I had trouble with were the two holding the heat shield on the pipe by your right ankle. Are you sure you aren't thinking of yer buddy's KLR? I think I've checked my spokes a dozen times in 32k miles, only found a few that needed a little tightening. Have you been bouncing this thing off of the rev limiter for those 3k miles? (it gets buzzy up there)

I put blue Locktite on any bolts or screws I take out, for whatever reason, like farkles.

Harbor Freight has 1/16" drill bits, pack of 10, for $KLR cheap. Seems someone said to drill an allen head from both sides, not straight through. I've done it that way for 'awhile'. Make sure you start close enough to the edge so that the bit doesn't hit the solid center of the head. If it does, it will probably break when it 'turns' into the center of the head.

I drilled mine with an electric drill, bolts clamped in a vise. Gently, let the bit cut its way through. Watch your drill alignment and remember it's a 1/16" bit, just the weight of the drill will break it if you push crooked.

Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 miles a week)... maybe it's the DG exhaust, but most likely it's the revs I keep the bike at. I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

I'm willing to bet my neutral safety switch, or whatever it is, is already loose at 3k miles, and will fall apart by 5k at this rate (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?). Safety wiring may seem like overkill for some, but if I can do it well I'd rather set the bike up right.

Thanks for the harbor freight idea - I didn't think any of their bits would be any good.

[jessepitt]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

Wow, 40 years I've been working on bikes, why didn't I think of that. That's why I read this thread. Never know what's up next. Thanks

The hair drier is an un-sung hero: peals stickers, softens cold rubber, dries drywall mud quickly etc. I am always finding new uses for it, I've even heard some people use it to dry their hair!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!

You must have a very unique Dr650. Not many nuts/bolts come loose on most of these bikes. Sounds like someone may have "fiddled" with your bike? Two things came loose on my bike:
1. one of the bolts on the exhaust heat shield.
2. One or two of the rack bolts. (not really part of the bike)

Nothing else has ever been found to be loose or lost ... even after 1000's of miles of washboard roads in Baja.

In most cases anything loose ... can simply be tightened up. I don't even use Loc-Tite on my fasteners ... Only on the bark buster hardware, caliper bolts, handle bar bolts ... that is about it.

Just curious ... what nuts and bolts have you lost so far?

[jessepitt]

[QUOTE=Mambo Dave;18745379]Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?).

No! Absolutely not! Get a street bike.