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Old 05-25-2012, 09:35 AM   #64906
AST236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I should be more specific, but it's just a few (more or less) pages back.

page 3240.


http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...5295&page=3240
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:40 AM   #64907
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Hey all. Long time listener, first time caller.

I just bought my 2006 DR650 after selling my gsxr750 and searching for months. Ended up buying from someone on this forum. I totally love the bike and know I made the right choice.

This bike is having a slight stumble right off idle when given normal throttle. I see it is a common thing and people say to "drill out the brass plug and turn some screw". Well, I'm carburetarded. Can someone show me a picture of said brass plug and instruct me on which way to turn it to address this lean idle condition?
the post you want is here.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...g#post18721986

but, don't bother. find an fcr39 or tm40 carb and install it and call it a day. everyone who has futzed w/the stock carb and then upgraded has said the difference is huge. if you are patient, you can find a used carb and save some cash; otherwise splurge on a new one.

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Old 05-25-2012, 09:41 AM   #64908
AST236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Hey all. Long time listener, first time caller.

I just bought my 2006 DR650 after selling my gsxr750 and searching for months. Ended up buying from someone on this forum. I totally love the bike and know I made the right choice.

This bike is having a slight stumble right off idle when given normal throttle. I see it is a common thing and people say to "drill out the brass plug and turn some screw". Well, I'm carburetarded. Can someone show me a picture of said brass plug and instruct me on which way to turn it to address this lean idle condition?


This is easy enough to do that I did it last weekend (including shimming the needle and drilling the slide) in under an hour. I was carb reluctant as well, but it's not that hard if you go slow and pay attention.

Not sure where you are located, but ask around and I bet there is a DR rider nearby that will gladly help you get your bike sorted. Might have to feed him though.

Welcome to the asylum and ride safe.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:33 AM   #64909
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Thanks for the awesome replies! That link with pictures is perfect!

Which way would I turn the screw to richen it up? CW or CCW?

What would be a fair price to pay for a used FCR39? I would also need to look up the needed accessories too.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:57 AM   #64910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Thanks for the awesome replies! That link with pictures is perfect!

Which way would I turn the screw to richen it up? CW or CCW?

What would be a fair price to pay for a used FCR39? I would also need to look up the needed accessories too.
Jesse did an awesome series of photos on that project.

Since it's a fuel screw, in for leaner, out for richer.

If you like to tinker, like changing jetting, test ride, change another setting, test ride, etc. The FCR is a good choice, it has more adjustments available to get spot on jetting.

I rode my DR for 15k miles doing nothing more than replace the seat and pull the snorkle. At my 6k foot altitude, the stock jetting was close enough. But like many others, I'm getting tempted to upgrade to a pumper. I'll pick the TM-40, it's a plug and play with a few simple adjustments to get the jetting close enough. I like tinkering with the bike when I feel like it, but I won't be wanting to take the extra steps to get the FCR spot on.

I don't know what a good price would be, for either.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #64911
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I see used FCR's for 250-300 already set up for dr650's. The one I bought I was told was off a Husky and did not need an adapter to fit the boot - it was a perfect fit including cables.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:59 AM   #64912
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I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:02 PM   #64913
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Thanks all.

The TM40 being plug and play sounds good to me. I would really need to read up on carb tuning for the FCR39 it sounds like.

I have no problem tinkering and taking time to learn, but this bike is now my daily commuter and its over 100F outside for the next few months. Not sure how much tinkering I could stand. Also, apartment parking...

I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #64914
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Pulled my starter

and had to remove the cam tensioner also (was leaking anyhow).

I put at TDC, but I'm unsure if I was TDC on COMPRESSION stroke. Tensioner is already pulled. Do I just re-install where it sits, or do I make sure I am at TDC on compression stroke before I re-install it?

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #64915
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I just finished installing a TM40 from Procycle. The jetting is very close out of the box. Had to play with the pilot screw setting and that was about it. It's about 1.25 turns out. The longest part was getting the throttle cables run smoothly so there was no binding with the bars hard to the left.

My bike had a well set up BST40 and a GSXR pipe. There is a noticeable difference in throttle response but I've yet to experience 2nd gear roll on wheelies. When you quickly roll on the throttle it,s not a hesitation but the engine starts to accelerate and then it starts to pull really hard. . I'm going to play with the AP setting and try to get it to come on a bit quicker.

I'm sure I'll get it fine tuned better. Lots of rain this week to interupt testing
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:33 PM   #64916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
Tech23 to the white courtesy phone.........

I have the FCR and my son has the TM40. Both have been flawless. I bought a TM40 which will go on soon so our bikes will be as close to equal as they can be. We're hoping to do some traveling together and it just seems more convenient to have the bikes outfitted the same mechanically.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #64917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I'd say that you'd be better off buying a new carb with all of the right bits to make it plug and play. Also, the FCR usually costs more than a TM for no gain.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:53 PM   #64918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
Looked again today and it looks like magneto cover is leaking along with base gasket on the left side. I had the oil filled up to the F line and I let some out til its right at half between the low and full lines cold. I'm hoping I just had too much oil in it
If the level is at the half way mark cold then it is on the low mark when checked as per the manual.

A lot of Suzuki's use this method to check the oil,why it is not a cold measurement is beyond me.
My TL's were the same,if I stand the bike up from cold and the window is full its OK (taking for granted the sump is not full of fuel)

Here is what the manual says with the 1 1/2 minute wait after shutting it down after idling the engine for a few minutes.
The engine is a roller bearing (crankshaft) engine so it does not run the oil pressure like a shell bearing version so might not be as demanding on the oil level.
It still pays to know what the actual level is,run on the low mark will probably not damage it (unlike a TL1000) but have no intention of finding out.

Cold,bike vertical.



Engine started and idled for a few minutes then shut down.
Plenty of time for the oil to complete it circuits.



Around 1 1/2 minutes later after oil has drained back to the sump.



A full window was actually the mid mark.

The oil pick up and screen at the floor of the engine cases.

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Old 05-25-2012, 02:54 PM   #64919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
+1

My bike had a DynoJet kit in it when I bought it and it ran like crap. Rich mixture, lousy fuel mileage, hard to start, fouled plugs regularly, etc.

I managed to make it run a lot better by lowering the needle but last weekend my wife, who's got a box stock DR which runs really well persuaded me to put stock jets and needle back in and it's never run better for me than it does now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:03 PM   #64920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potosi Joe View Post
I have the Procycle Secondary air filter. The K&N looking Baby filter for the Carb. What do you guys use to clean this filter with? How ofter do you clean it? It is covered with dust after a two day 500mile gravel ride. Thanks Joe, Pic from Procycle web site.
I have one of those which I got from Supercheap autos here in OZ. I also have K&N carby filter. I use the K&N filter cleaning agent and K&N filter oil on both very regularly.
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