the DR650 thread

[Motodeficient]

The inner "teeth" on the retainer are rotated in the slot on the countershaft so that they are behind corresponding notches on the countershaft. Ones the bolts go through the retainer into the threaded holes in the sprocket, the whole assembly is locked in place.

[John E]

Originally Posted by Motodeficient

See my post ( #64999) above. And look at the picture posted above. The sprocket goes on first, then the rubber damper (optional), then the retainer goes in the groove on the shaft, and rotates slightly in the groove, preventing it from coming off. Look closely at the picture to see this. Then the bolts go through the retainer and thread into the threaded holes in the sprockets. The assembly doesn't move after this.

Ok, I get it now, thanks.

So now the bigger question, what harm am I doing or risk am I taking in running a clip on type retainer by itself?

I rode the bike home from Arizona like this and obviously been riding it this way since last year.

I've been on a bike when a chain broke and can remember very well what they was like, what's gonna happen in this case?

[Motodeficient]

Here is a better picture to explain it





I haven't heard of a ton of issues with running the clip. More so than running the bolts though, thats why I run the bolts.

[John E]

I get it now.

I checked the ProCycle site and they refer to running the clip only, sounds like it's a very minor concern.

I don't like the side to side play that's there but as someone else said maybe it's actually better for keeping the chain aligned?

Think I'll source a bolt on retainer and put it on but I won't be as worried as I was a couple of minutes ago...

Wonder if running 2 circlips would do anything useful?

[Motodeficient]

Running the clip makes front sprocket changes quicker. If you don't change front sprocket size often I would use the stock bolt/retainer setup. Just my opinion.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Motodeficient

..............The assembly doesn't move after this.

..................Once the bolts go through the retainer into the threaded holes in the sprocket, the whole assembly is locked in place.

But it does wiggle, it's not bolted down tight. It can only be as tight as the clearance between the retainer and the groove in the shaft. Something I've never been very happy with, it's not a good place for two hardened pieces to be rubbing together in a gritty environment. Does make it easy to change though.

Originally Posted by John E

thanks for the info and the speedy replies, I may seem stupid thoughtful ......

Fixt.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Escaped

After a number of miles, when I used the clip as opposed to the bolt set up, I noticed abnormal wear on the front sprocket and a very noticeable rattle at certain speeds / loads . I switched back to the bolted set-up and the problems went away - so now I will only use the bolted setup.

+1
The clip method of retaining a front sprocket is appropriate for bikes that were originally designed for it. They will have a shoulder on the shaft and the clip will hold the sprocket firmly against that shoulder.

[John E]

Originally Posted by procycle

+1
The clip method of retaining a front sprocket is appropriate for bikes that were originally designed for it. They will have a shoulder on the shaft and the clip will hold the sprocket firmly against that shoulder.

So what are your thoughts about running the circlip only on a DR?

It would seem to be a bad idea based on what you wrote above.

And while I've got you, do you guys have a stock retainer in stock or just the aftermarket stainless steel ones?

Should have checked before my last order with you guys...which arrived very quickly by the way.

[Motodeficient]

If you posted a WTB thread in the fleamarket you could probably get one dirt cheap from someone who switched to a clip.

[John E]

Originally Posted by Motodeficient

If you posted a WTB thread in the fleamarket you could probably get one dirt cheap from someone who switched to a clip.

That's a good idea, thanks.

Looks like replacing the clip with the stock stuff will run over $25 plus shipping, none of my local dealers have any of the stuff in stock.

[FatChance]

Originally Posted by thinairflyer

I'll bet there a quite a few older than my buddy and me.

How about it? Old guys speak up!

Hell, I'm still a young punk, I only just started getting Social Security in March.

[Motodeficient]

Originally Posted by John E

That's a good idea, thanks.

Looks like replacing the clip with the stock stuff will run over $25 plus shipping, none of my local dealers have any of the stuff in stock.

yeah it looks like you could get everything from powersportsplus.com for $30 shipped if you are in the US. But you really don't need the rubber damper which would bring it down to $22 shipped for the plate and the three bolts.

I bet you could get it from someone here for around $10 shipped including the damper.

[malokam]

Originally Posted by malokam

So, all my lights and horn stopped working last night. I was caught in the storm and had to ride more than an hour in heavy pour and wind. However, the ignition was working fine and I could restart the bike when I got home.

I am just glad I made it home and not get hit by anything.

What do I need to check? I did not have time this morning to take a quick look.
Thanks in advance....

PS: I do have LED blinkers with the flasher and stock headlight. I do have a Vapor and everything else works on it except the speedo. Speedo just shows "Zero"

Anyone??

[Motodeficient]

Have you checked your fuses yet?

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by John E

Ok, lets see where I'm at.

I replaced the front and rear sprockets and the chain with all new 520 parts. No mixing of sizes.

I only used the impact to loosen the lock nuts on the inside of the rear sprocket, held the allen head bolt with an allen wrench and used the impact to break loose the loctite that was already on the bolts. I then used hand tools to finish removing the old bolts. No bolts or nuts got trashed in any way. I mainly used the impact because it allowed to break the nuts off and keep my hands away from the teeth on the sprocket, I had the wheel on the bench while working on it and it was a little awkward to use a box or combo wrench on the nuts.

Used all new bolts and nuts with pre-applied Loctite that came with the new rear sprocket, I attached the sprocket to the hub carrier using only hand tools and a torque wrench, 20 ft/pounds, half a pound more than recommended by Suzuki.

You done good. Lots of guys try to break loose the Allens on the rear sprocket. They won't move!!! Glad you just did the nuts! They are not lock nuts ... I think they are Ny-Loc type, and that is why Suzuki recommend replacing. As I said, I did not, but did loc tite them. Never had one ever loosen in 5 or 6 sprocket changes.

Originally Posted by John E

The bike only had a clip on front sprocket retainer when I took it apart and that's all I put back on.

Sounds like I need to buy a set of bolts and a stock bolt on retainer? The new front probably has the holes in it and I just didn't notice them since I was only using the clip-on retainer.

How does the bolt on retainer keep the sprocket on? The shaft is open-ended and the sprocket slides on, if the retainer slips onto the shaft and it's bolted to the sprocket what's actually keeping it from just slipping back off, the tension of the chain? Obviously I need to go back out and take a closer look at what I've got. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but again, it's been a few years since I worked on a chain driven bike.

You are fine. Many use the Circlip to hold on the sprocket. I've stayed with the stock Suzuki holding plate. Look at the pic posted. That is what the stock on looks like. Three bolts that bolt ONTO the sprocket itself. That is how it's held on.

The Circlip type fits in a slot on the shaft and clips in place. That is what holds the sprocket, I believe. I've not used this on my DR, but have on other bikes. It's OK I guess, but a few issues with it.
You've done everything right!