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Old 05-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #64906
Lost4Now
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Location: NoHo, Ca.
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Pulled my starter

and had to remove the cam tensioner also (was leaking anyhow).

I put at TDC, but I'm unsure if I was TDC on COMPRESSION stroke. Tensioner is already pulled. Do I just re-install where it sits, or do I make sure I am at TDC on compression stroke before I re-install it?

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #64907
canuckAME
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Location: Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
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I just finished installing a TM40 from Procycle. The jetting is very close out of the box. Had to play with the pilot screw setting and that was about it. It's about 1.25 turns out. The longest part was getting the throttle cables run smoothly so there was no binding with the bars hard to the left.

My bike had a well set up BST40 and a GSXR pipe. There is a noticeable difference in throttle response but I've yet to experience 2nd gear roll on wheelies. When you quickly roll on the throttle it,s not a hesitation but the engine starts to accelerate and then it starts to pull really hard. . I'm going to play with the AP setting and try to get it to come on a bit quicker.

I'm sure I'll get it fine tuned better. Lots of rain this week to interupt testing
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:33 PM   #64908
TrophyHunter
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Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
Tech23 to the white courtesy phone.........

I have the FCR and my son has the TM40. Both have been flawless. I bought a TM40 which will go on soon so our bikes will be as close to equal as they can be. We're hoping to do some traveling together and it just seems more convenient to have the bikes outfitted the same mechanically.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #64909
fizzerfz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I'd say that you'd be better off buying a new carb with all of the right bits to make it plug and play. Also, the FCR usually costs more than a TM for no gain.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:53 PM   #64910
ADV8
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
Looked again today and it looks like magneto cover is leaking along with base gasket on the left side. I had the oil filled up to the F line and I let some out til its right at half between the low and full lines cold. I'm hoping I just had too much oil in it
If the level is at the half way mark cold then it is on the low mark when checked as per the manual.

A lot of Suzuki's use this method to check the oil,why it is not a cold measurement is beyond me.
My TL's were the same,if I stand the bike up from cold and the window is full its OK (taking for granted the sump is not full of fuel)

Here is what the manual says with the 1 1/2 minute wait after shutting it down after idling the engine for a few minutes.
The engine is a roller bearing (crankshaft) engine so it does not run the oil pressure like a shell bearing version so might not be as demanding on the oil level.
It still pays to know what the actual level is,run on the low mark will probably not damage it (unlike a TL1000) but have no intention of finding out.

Cold,bike vertical.



Engine started and idled for a few minutes then shut down.
Plenty of time for the oil to complete it circuits.



Around 1 1/2 minutes later after oil has drained back to the sump.



A full window was actually the mid mark.

The oil pick up and screen at the floor of the engine cases.

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Old 05-25-2012, 02:54 PM   #64911
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
+1

My bike had a DynoJet kit in it when I bought it and it ran like crap. Rich mixture, lousy fuel mileage, hard to start, fouled plugs regularly, etc.

I managed to make it run a lot better by lowering the needle but last weekend my wife, who's got a box stock DR which runs really well persuaded me to put stock jets and needle back in and it's never run better for me than it does now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:03 PM   #64912
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potosi Joe View Post
I have the Procycle Secondary air filter. The K&N looking Baby filter for the Carb. What do you guys use to clean this filter with? How ofter do you clean it? It is covered with dust after a two day 500mile gravel ride. Thanks Joe, Pic from Procycle web site.
I have one of those which I got from Supercheap autos here in OZ. I also have K&N carby filter. I use the K&N filter cleaning agent and K&N filter oil on both very regularly.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #64913
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
My bike had a DynoJet kit in it when I bought it and it ran like crap. Rich mixture, lousy fuel mileage, hard to start, fouled plugs regularly, etc.

I managed to make it run a lot better by lowering the needle but last weekend my wife, who's got a box stock DR which runs really well persuaded me to put stock jets and needle back in and it's never run better for me than it does now.
I got my DynoJet kit to where I thought was about right and some time on the Dyno tweaking it, got it pretty damn good.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #64914
MudBoat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Tech23 to the white courtesy phone.........

I have the FCR and my son has the TM40. Both have been flawless. I bought a TM40 which will go on soon so our bikes will be as close to equal as they can be. We're hoping to do some traveling together and it just seems more convenient to have the bikes outfitted the same mechanically.
Yea that definitely makes sense.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:32 PM   #64915
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Indian Auto/Bike manufacturer Bajaj own 40% of KTM, with plans to buy more. I've seen this bike in the press for the last year. It's awesome ... and good to hear its reasonable in India. The 125 is already being imported to EU, not sure about the 200. I say bring it to the US, I'd bet it'd sell if its price is competitive.

Here's some info on KTM/Bajaj deal and the Duke 200.

http://www.livemint.com/2012/01/2418...debut-wit.html
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

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Old 05-25-2012, 03:36 PM   #64916
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Thanks all.

The TM40 being plug and play sounds good to me. I would really need to read up on carb tuning for the FCR39 it sounds like.

I have no problem tinkering and taking time to learn, but this bike is now my daily commuter and its over 100F outside for the next few months. Not sure how much tinkering I could stand. Also, apartment parking...

I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
If you bought an FCR already jetted for your bike would be plug and play too.

Keep in mind some folks here live to improve and fine tune their bikes. Other just ride 'em. It's all good.
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:54 PM   #64917
Mikey Boy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

+1000!
I would buy and ride the piss out the Duke 350. Bet it gets awesome mileage too.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:08 PM   #64918
Olas
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Location: Englewood, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:26 PM   #64919
YnotJP?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
I agree with everything shu has said. Mine is bone stock other than aTwin-Air air filter and a Factory Pro Jet Kit and fuel screw from Procycle.

In Feb 2011, I did a trip from Seattle to San Diego, 1531 miles, moving average 52 MPH, Gas Milage 62 MPG.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:47 PM   #64920
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
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