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Old 05-25-2012, 09:06 PM   #64906
TrophyHunter
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Pics would help. And Congrats.
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2005 DR650 '07 WR450
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:18 PM   #64907
SprintST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:35 PM   #64908
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How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:45 PM   #64909
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Did some wrenching on my 2012 DR650 this afternoon after work.

Mainly, did the first oil change with new filter and checked the NSU.

After draining the oil and loosening up the Ricochet Bash Plate, I removed the bolts holding the clutch cover on the bike.

Then I removed the bolts connecting the oil lines to the clutch cover

Located the two flat tabs that are used to pry the cover off the engine and it came off with zero issues. The gasket was perfect so I decided I'd reuse it


I checked the NSU and the lower, easier to access bolt was quiet snug.

The top one, however, was already loose and backed out about an eighth of an inch! (I have less than 550mi on this bike)

So...looks like the problem still affects the 2012s even with the use of an hex socketed bolt.

I took a normal 4mm hex key and put it into the vise and cut it quiet short in order to slide it behind the clutch. Man that was a pain in the ass backing that bolt out the rest of the way...

Once I removed it, I applied loctite blue, and reinstalled it, and snugged it down very well.

Then I repeated the process for the other hex bolt

when it came time to reassemble the bike, I ran into a problem and I'm hoping I can get some assistance resolving it because I haven't been successful searching for an answer.

The banjo bolt that secures the oil line that enters the clutch cover on top, near the filler...I can't seem to get the hole in the banjo bolt to line up with the hole in the banjo collar on the oil line.

It's 180 off.

At finger-tight, the banjo bolt hole is 90 past the oil line collar's hole.
Snugged down to recommended torque, it's 180 off.
If I were to try to tighten the shit outta it, it'd still be 90 off

(Crude example of what I'm talking about)


Can I get some assistance on how to handle this issue? (If it is an issue, at all, though I do believe it is a major one)
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:50 PM   #64910
ER70S-2
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Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #64911
doug s.
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carbs...

when i got my bike, it had an aftermarket yoshimura can on it. the airbox was opened up; i can only imagine the carb was properly set up, cuz the bike ran fine. no hesitation, surging, etc. but, i wanted to put the better carb on it, so i found an fcr39 off ebay, already set-up for a dr650, including merge racing spring. i guess i got lucky, cuz i paid ~$130 shipped. and, it was plug-n-play, already set up for open airbox and aftermarket exhaust. i also added the gsxr-style muffler, hi-flow fmf powerbomb header and hi-flow kientech midpipe. the bike positively rips, now. and i am getting 45-50mpg. my bike has a 16t front sprocket, but w/smaller diameter rear tire, (150-60-17), the gearing is almost identical to stock. you have to be careful not to lift the front wheel when accelerating hard...

i know there's folks that are fine w/the stock carb, and my old set up also worked fine. but the improvement is really nice, and i have read so many stories of people having problems w/the stock carb, and so many stories of those who upgraded their carbs even after modding the stockers, and getting great results. i think it is a no brainer upgrade...

ymmv,

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:27 PM   #64912
notarat
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QUOTE=ER70S-2;18769666]Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens. [/QUOTE]

It was well past sunset when I reached that point of the re-assembly so it would seem I missed that fact.

That's definitely great news to hear! Thanks for the info!

I think I can unclench my sphincter now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:30 PM   #64913
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
dunno the carb pricing for buying new...

re: the way you use your bike, an fcr39 will be great - my bike runs great at 80-85 and pulls strong to 100. it might pull past that, but i backed off... and this is pretty accurate, w/trail-tech speedo, not stock speedo...

check mxrob's info about the fcr carbies:
http://mxrob.com/mxrob_007.htm

https://docs.google.com/present/view...R0MmpjbQ&hl=en

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:31 PM   #64914
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
It'll handle highway running just fine. It just really smooths out the running at low revs, and improves throttle response everywhere.

You pretty much have to find your own FCR39, but if you contact him, he may set one up for you.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:43 PM   #64915
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:


I had originally replied, "That's definitely great news to hear! Thanks for the info, but don't think I've forgiven your ass for linking that damn rotor", but I deleted that last bit from my reply because I didn't want to stir up shit.

You fucking bastard.

Only reason I haven't ordered one already is because I was afraid it wouldn't fit with my Maire rotor protector...

That looks sweet as hell though.

Congrats! <-- with envy
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:48 PM   #64916
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:51 PM   #64917
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
Yep, the DR does it all quite nicely.
3 DR's an XR and an 1150GS in our little group...
http://youtu.be/aw4-ZQyOK0g?hd=1&t=8m3s

Includes my first ever ride on an 1150
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:06 PM   #64918
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Pics would help. And Congrats.
Try these...sorry the garage is a little cramped at the moment! Best I can tell these look to be stock. Then again, what do I know?







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Old 05-25-2012, 11:24 PM   #64919
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Hi folks,

I just brought home a 2000 DR650 with 15000 on the clock. The person I purchased it from said the owner before him had "replaced the front forks". My question is, what did he replace them with? Any easy way to tell if these are stock forks? They're awfully squishy, which indicates to me they are probably stock sticks. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
Those are stock forks. The fork gaiters should be slid up to the bottom triple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Yep, the DR does it all quite nicely.
3 DR's an XR and an 1150GS in our little group...
http://youtu.be/aw4-ZQyOK0g?hd=1&t=8m3s

Includes my first ever ride on an 1150
DAMN!!! There's sum rokz.

There are also ample opportunities to make a mistake that would ruin yer whole week!!!

Rockin' good tunes, too.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:56 PM   #64920
XPLRN
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DR650 Operator Foot Peg Drop Brackets Info

Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLRN View Post
Almost four years ago a local machining/fabrication guy came up with a unique drop bracket configuration for the operator foot pegs on the 1996 and newer DR650. This configuration utilizes the Suzuki designed vibration isolation feature. This drop bracket configuration is best for folks that ride mostly street/gravel roads and are not doing that much 'stand up' riding off-road. This is due to the lowering of the foot pegs beneath the frame and the vibration isolation feature was designed for a mostly seated rider.

Anyways he's still got 6-7 bracket sets from this one time CNC production run and wants to get rid of them.......first come first serve..........when they are gone that's it. He has reduced the price to $60 shipped vs. the $75 previously (Paypal fees extra). The guy that had him design and manufacture these drop brackets posted up a review of them...........read thru the links below for more info, pictures and his contact info if interested


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=16710

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=16712

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
There's a good chance he didn't come up with a "unique drop bracket configuration"...

This post mentions getting the idea from TrailZone Magazine...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1665

And there's been CAD drawings on this site for almost 4 years too...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1669
Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLRN View Post
What is "unique" about this drop bracket is the CNC machined design that allows the Suzuki factory engineered vibration dampening design of the foot peg to still function. It seems Suzuki recognized vibration output of a 650c.c. thumper and saw fit to incorporate a vibration dampening design into the operator footpegs. Think how much they could have saved(more corporate profit) over the past 16+ years IF they wouldn't have tooled up to make the operator foot pegs the way they did!?? Now I'm wondering if the pre-1996 DR650's had the vibration isolation feature in the operator foot pegs?? Most everything else(the two links above and others) uses a bolt through/clamp design that eliminates the Suzuki designed vibration dampening feature.

Each to their own on how to deal with the vibrations of their DR650.......I was happy to get a setup that incorporated the Suzuki designed vibration dampening.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Nope. The 2 links mentioned use the stock damping rubbers and allow the foot pegs to flex the same as stock.
The centre bushing through the damping rubbers allows the peg to stand slightly proud of the drop bracket. I measure about a 10mm drop under load at the end of the foot peg.

It's a mellow Saturday evening and I've got some time to address the above "Nope" response. Maybe some pictures will help........this is a stock DR650 operator foot peg assembly with two rubber dampening bushings and center metal sleeves/bushings that the bolts clamp thru to hold it to the *round* mounting stand-offs coming off the frame tube. This is stuff that most DR650 owners have seen before if they have removed their operator foot peg brackets.

Here it is all bolted together;


Here are the two stand-offs from the frame after the operator foot peg assembly has been removed;


Here is a picture of the stock Suzuki designed operator foot peg.


This picture illustrates that the metal center bushing in the middle of the dampening rubbers is actually shorter in length than the outside width of the operator foot peg bracket ;



As can be seen in the above pictures Suzuki designed the DR650 operator foot peg bracket mounting to reduce the vibrations the 650c.c. single cylinder thumper engine puts out. Since vibration is omnidirectional ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omnidirectional ) they went with a design that "floated" the operator foot peg bracket on the two rubber dampening bushings that were held onto the frame by the bolts clamping the steel center bushings to the *round* mounting stand-offs.

The logical reason the mounting stand-offs are round is that the rubber dampening bushings are round. The two flanged mounting bolts hold the *round* rubber bushings against the *round* mounting stand-offs when clamping the steel center bushings in the mounting of the operator foot peg bracket to the frame. This provides "isolation" from the frame where the solid mounted engine vibrations come from.


In the picture below the green dotted circle shows where the metal center bushing is clamped to the *round* mounting stand-off. The blue dotted circle shows where the compressed rubber dampening material contacts the *round* mounting stand-off. There is **no** contact between the operator foot peg bracket and the mounting stand-offs as the operator foot peg bracket is "floated" on the rubber dampening material away from the frame mounted stand-off. In normal seated riding the rubber dampening material is doing it's job of reducing the transmitted engine vibration to the operator's feet. If someone rides standing up a lot or over time the rubber dampening material can get deformed/pounded out and that could allow engine vibration to be transmitted from the frame to the operator's feet.


This picture shows a flat plate with **no** round stand-offs to allow the rubber dampening bushings to be isolated and "float" the operator foot peg bracket. Soo when the mounting bolts clamp the operator foot peg bracket to a flat plate there is direct metal contact and the Suzuki designed omnidirectional vibration feature is negated.


I understand that some people don't give a care about the vibration transmitted thru the foot pegs when the Suzuki designed omnidirectional vibration feature is negated. I still believe that IF Suzuki engineers didn't understand that vibration was a issue for seated distance riding they would NOT have went to all the design work of incorporating the rubber dampening material in the operator foot peg assemblies. Heck think of all the money they would have saved since 1996 if they had just bolted a metal foot peg bracket assembly to the flat plate welded to the frame tube without any thought of vibration dampening.

This picture shows the CNC machined drop bracket for the operator foot peg assembly....I chose to coat mine with spray-on truck bed liner material. There is a round stand-off that duplicates the diameter of the original round stand-of on the DR650 frame.


Also there is a hardened washer(slightly smaller diameter than the stand-off) that goes up against the machined aluminum stand-off surface to take the clamp load of the steel bushing when the operator foot peg is mounted to the drop bracket. Here is a picture that shows that;


The reason I put the asterisks around the word *round* in all the above verbage is that Suzuki designed it that way......using round rubber bushings that seat up against round stand-offs from the frame to reduce vibration to the operator's feet. As stated above they could have saved A LOT of money over this 16+ year production run if they would have just eliminated the vibration dampening feature of the operator foot peg

PS..........my bike was the test bike for the prototyping of these drop brackets so that is why I have the above info.

XPLRN screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 12:09 AM
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