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Old 05-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #64906
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Indian Auto/Bike manufacturer Bajaj own 40% of KTM, with plans to buy more. I've seen this bike in the press for the last year. It's awesome ... and good to hear its reasonable in India. The 125 is already being imported to EU, not sure about the 200. I say bring it to the US, I'd bet it'd sell if its price is competitive.

Here's some info on KTM/Bajaj deal and the Duke 200.

http://www.livemint.com/2012/01/2418...debut-wit.html
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

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Old 05-25-2012, 04:36 PM   #64907
jon_l
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Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Thanks all.

The TM40 being plug and play sounds good to me. I would really need to read up on carb tuning for the FCR39 it sounds like.

I have no problem tinkering and taking time to learn, but this bike is now my daily commuter and its over 100F outside for the next few months. Not sure how much tinkering I could stand. Also, apartment parking...

I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
If you bought an FCR already jetted for your bike would be plug and play too.

Keep in mind some folks here live to improve and fine tune their bikes. Other just ride 'em. It's all good.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:54 PM   #64908
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Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

+1000!
I would buy and ride the piss out the Duke 350. Bet it gets awesome mileage too.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:08 PM   #64909
Olas
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Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:26 PM   #64910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
I agree with everything shu has said. Mine is bone stock other than aTwin-Air air filter and a Factory Pro Jet Kit and fuel screw from Procycle.

In Feb 2011, I did a trip from Seattle to San Diego, 1531 miles, moving average 52 MPH, Gas Milage 62 MPG.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:47 PM   #64911
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:19 PM   #64912
opium89
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Hi folks,

I just brought home a 2000 DR650 with 15000 on the clock. The person I purchased it from said the owner before him had "replaced the front forks". My question is, what did he replace them with? Any easy way to tell if these are stock forks? They're awfully squishy, which indicates to me they are probably stock sticks. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:06 PM   #64913
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Pics would help. And Congrats.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:18 PM   #64914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:35 PM   #64915
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How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:45 PM   #64916
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Did some wrenching on my 2012 DR650 this afternoon after work.

Mainly, did the first oil change with new filter and checked the NSU.

After draining the oil and loosening up the Ricochet Bash Plate, I removed the bolts holding the clutch cover on the bike.

Then I removed the bolts connecting the oil lines to the clutch cover

Located the two flat tabs that are used to pry the cover off the engine and it came off with zero issues. The gasket was perfect so I decided I'd reuse it


I checked the NSU and the lower, easier to access bolt was quiet snug.

The top one, however, was already loose and backed out about an eighth of an inch! (I have less than 550mi on this bike)

So...looks like the problem still affects the 2012s even with the use of an hex socketed bolt.

I took a normal 4mm hex key and put it into the vise and cut it quiet short in order to slide it behind the clutch. Man that was a pain in the ass backing that bolt out the rest of the way...

Once I removed it, I applied loctite blue, and reinstalled it, and snugged it down very well.

Then I repeated the process for the other hex bolt

when it came time to reassemble the bike, I ran into a problem and I'm hoping I can get some assistance resolving it because I haven't been successful searching for an answer.

The banjo bolt that secures the oil line that enters the clutch cover on top, near the filler...I can't seem to get the hole in the banjo bolt to line up with the hole in the banjo collar on the oil line.

It's 180 off.

At finger-tight, the banjo bolt hole is 90 past the oil line collar's hole.
Snugged down to recommended torque, it's 180 off.
If I were to try to tighten the shit outta it, it'd still be 90 off

(Crude example of what I'm talking about)


Can I get some assistance on how to handle this issue? (If it is an issue, at all, though I do believe it is a major one)
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:50 PM   #64917
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Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-25-2012 at 10:12 PM
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #64918
doug s.
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carbs...

when i got my bike, it had an aftermarket yoshimura can on it. the airbox was opened up; i can only imagine the carb was properly set up, cuz the bike ran fine. no hesitation, surging, etc. but, i wanted to put the better carb on it, so i found an fcr39 off ebay, already set-up for a dr650, including merge racing spring. i guess i got lucky, cuz i paid ~$130 shipped. and, it was plug-n-play, already set up for open airbox and aftermarket exhaust. i also added the gsxr-style muffler, hi-flow fmf powerbomb header and hi-flow kientech midpipe. the bike positively rips, now. and i am getting 45-50mpg. my bike has a 16t front sprocket, but w/smaller diameter rear tire, (150-60-17), the gearing is almost identical to stock. you have to be careful not to lift the front wheel when accelerating hard...

i know there's folks that are fine w/the stock carb, and my old set up also worked fine. but the improvement is really nice, and i have read so many stories of people having problems w/the stock carb, and so many stories of those who upgraded their carbs even after modding the stockers, and getting great results. i think it is a no brainer upgrade...

ymmv,

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:27 PM   #64919
notarat
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QUOTE=ER70S-2;18769666]Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens. [/QUOTE]

It was well past sunset when I reached that point of the re-assembly so it would seem I missed that fact.

That's definitely great news to hear! Thanks for the info!

I think I can unclench my sphincter now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:30 PM   #64920
doug s.
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
dunno the carb pricing for buying new...

re: the way you use your bike, an fcr39 will be great - my bike runs great at 80-85 and pulls strong to 100. it might pull past that, but i backed off... and this is pretty accurate, w/trail-tech speedo, not stock speedo...

check mxrob's info about the fcr carbies:
http://mxrob.com/mxrob_007.htm

https://docs.google.com/present/view...R0MmpjbQ&hl=en

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