ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-25-2012, 02:54 PM   #64936
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,089
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
+1

My bike had a DynoJet kit in it when I bought it and it ran like crap. Rich mixture, lousy fuel mileage, hard to start, fouled plugs regularly, etc.

I managed to make it run a lot better by lowering the needle but last weekend my wife, who's got a box stock DR which runs really well persuaded me to put stock jets and needle back in and it's never run better for me than it does now.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:03 PM   #64937
kezzajohnson
kezza
 
kezzajohnson's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
Oddometer: 904
Quote:
Originally Posted by Potosi Joe View Post
I have the Procycle Secondary air filter. The K&N looking Baby filter for the Carb. What do you guys use to clean this filter with? How ofter do you clean it? It is covered with dust after a two day 500mile gravel ride. Thanks Joe, Pic from Procycle web site.
I have one of those which I got from Supercheap autos here in OZ. I also have K&N carby filter. I use the K&N filter cleaning agent and K&N filter oil on both very regularly.
__________________
KezzaJohnson Blue 06 DR650se,Yellow 06 DRZ250

Website: http://www.territoryon2wheels.com

"May the Road Never Rise to Defeat you..."
kezzajohnson is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #64938
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 6,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
My bike had a DynoJet kit in it when I bought it and it ran like crap. Rich mixture, lousy fuel mileage, hard to start, fouled plugs regularly, etc.

I managed to make it run a lot better by lowering the needle but last weekend my wife, who's got a box stock DR which runs really well persuaded me to put stock jets and needle back in and it's never run better for me than it does now.
I got my DynoJet kit to where I thought was about right and some time on the Dyno tweaking it, got it pretty damn good.
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #64939
MudBoat
Carburetarded
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Oddometer: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Tech23 to the white courtesy phone.........

I have the FCR and my son has the TM40. Both have been flawless. I bought a TM40 which will go on soon so our bikes will be as close to equal as they can be. We're hoping to do some traveling together and it just seems more convenient to have the bikes outfitted the same mechanically.
Yea that definitely makes sense.
MudBoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:32 PM   #64940
jon_l
Southern Ontario
 
jon_l's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,646
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Indian Auto/Bike manufacturer Bajaj own 40% of KTM, with plans to buy more. I've seen this bike in the press for the last year. It's awesome ... and good to hear its reasonable in India. The 125 is already being imported to EU, not sure about the 200. I say bring it to the US, I'd bet it'd sell if its price is competitive.

Here's some info on KTM/Bajaj deal and the Duke 200.

http://www.livemint.com/2012/01/2418...debut-wit.html
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

__________________
'09 Honda CBF1000; '09 Yamaha WR250R
jon_l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:36 PM   #64941
jon_l
Southern Ontario
 
jon_l's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,646
Quote:
Originally Posted by MudBoat View Post
Thanks all.

The TM40 being plug and play sounds good to me. I would really need to read up on carb tuning for the FCR39 it sounds like.

I have no problem tinkering and taking time to learn, but this bike is now my daily commuter and its over 100F outside for the next few months. Not sure how much tinkering I could stand. Also, apartment parking...

I need to find a Phoenix DR650 veteran in the regional forums!
If you bought an FCR already jetted for your bike would be plug and play too.

Keep in mind some folks here live to improve and fine tune their bikes. Other just ride 'em. It's all good.
__________________
'09 Honda CBF1000; '09 Yamaha WR250R
jon_l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 03:54 PM   #64942
Mikey Boy
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Mikey Boy's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Kalifornia
Oddometer: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I want to see the Duke 350 in N. America:

+1000!
I would buy and ride the piss out the Duke 350. Bet it gets awesome mileage too.
__________________
Work to ride, and ride to work.
2004 KTM Adv 950
2000 XR650R
Mikey Boy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 05:08 PM   #64943
Olas
the darkness
 
Olas's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Englewood, CO
Oddometer: 3,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
__________________
Rebuild threads:
'92 XT600, '87 XR250R
Lighten up, Francis.
Olas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 05:26 PM   #64944
YnotJP?
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Philippines and Seattle
Oddometer: 1,866
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
I agree with everything shu has said. Mine is bone stock other than aTwin-Air air filter and a Factory Pro Jet Kit and fuel screw from Procycle.

In Feb 2011, I did a trip from Seattle to San Diego, 1531 miles, moving average 52 MPH, Gas Milage 62 MPG.
YnotJP? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 06:47 PM   #64945
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
My DR with the stock carb and stock air box (No snorkel) runs extremely well here in CO. I've gotten upwards of 58 mpg with mixed riding conditions and it does it with out hesitation. The only time I wish I had an FCR or a TM is while chugging along up rocky loose hills and tight trails with a lot of tight turns. I know the DR is not the best bike for this type of riding but it does pull it off fairly well for a bike its size.

The stock carb just isn't capable of providing that low end grunt that a 650 should have. I know that with the FCR I would be able to tractor up with just the throttle up a lot of the hills i ride. Where as with the BST i need to feather the clutch to keep going (in first gear). I've also noticed that i need to shift a lot more due to the nature of the stock carb. Again, it just doesn't give you that low end grunt. I do have a 14t sprocket in the front and the stock rear and have thought about upping the teeth in the rear but I do not want to lose too much top end. So I believe the solution (for me and my type of riding) will be to get an FCR so that I can gain the low end grunt for trail work while maintaining a decent top speed.
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 07:19 PM   #64946
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Hi folks,

I just brought home a 2000 DR650 with 15000 on the clock. The person I purchased it from said the owner before him had "replaced the front forks". My question is, what did he replace them with? Any easy way to tell if these are stock forks? They're awfully squishy, which indicates to me they are probably stock sticks. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:06 PM   #64947
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,614
Pics would help. And Congrats.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:18 PM   #64948
SprintST
Gnarly Adventurer
 
SprintST's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ottawa Ontario mailing address
Oddometer: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
__________________
"Let us never forget those who can't remember" [author unknown]
SprintST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:35 PM   #64949
Mambo Dave
Backyard Adventurer
 
Mambo Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 3,844
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
__________________
"After reading through this thread I've come to the conclusion
that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
RyanR
Mambo Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:45 PM   #64950
notarat
Gnarly Adventurer
 
notarat's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Bluff City
Oddometer: 333
Did some wrenching on my 2012 DR650 this afternoon after work.

Mainly, did the first oil change with new filter and checked the NSU.

After draining the oil and loosening up the Ricochet Bash Plate, I removed the bolts holding the clutch cover on the bike.

Then I removed the bolts connecting the oil lines to the clutch cover

Located the two flat tabs that are used to pry the cover off the engine and it came off with zero issues. The gasket was perfect so I decided I'd reuse it


I checked the NSU and the lower, easier to access bolt was quiet snug.

The top one, however, was already loose and backed out about an eighth of an inch! (I have less than 550mi on this bike)

So...looks like the problem still affects the 2012s even with the use of an hex socketed bolt.

I took a normal 4mm hex key and put it into the vise and cut it quiet short in order to slide it behind the clutch. Man that was a pain in the ass backing that bolt out the rest of the way...

Once I removed it, I applied loctite blue, and reinstalled it, and snugged it down very well.

Then I repeated the process for the other hex bolt

when it came time to reassemble the bike, I ran into a problem and I'm hoping I can get some assistance resolving it because I haven't been successful searching for an answer.

The banjo bolt that secures the oil line that enters the clutch cover on top, near the filler...I can't seem to get the hole in the banjo bolt to line up with the hole in the banjo collar on the oil line.

It's 180 off.

At finger-tight, the banjo bolt hole is 90 past the oil line collar's hole.
Snugged down to recommended torque, it's 180 off.
If I were to try to tighten the shit outta it, it'd still be 90 off

(Crude example of what I'm talking about)


Can I get some assistance on how to handle this issue? (If it is an issue, at all, though I do believe it is a major one)
notarat is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014