the DR650 thread

[jessepitt]

Originally Posted by John E

That's a good idea, thanks.

Looks like replacing the clip with the stock stuff will run over $25 plus shipping, none of my local dealers have any of the stuff in stock.

I think I have an extra one kicking around you can have for free. I dont know if I have the bolts but you are welcome to it if you want it, just PM me your address.

[Rugby4life]

Update

I just got back from a 1400 mile round trip from S.C. to New Orleans and back and have a few new revelations.
1. The stock seat should be sent to Gitmo. Then we would really get some useful intel. In other words, I would rather be waterboarded than do that trip again with that seat (and I used an Airhawk seat pad on top of it).
2. Between my weight, fully loaded top case and hard saddlebags, plus an Acerbis tank full of gas, all up weight is double the claimed dry weight. That considered, I really, really need the 320mm brake upgrade and steel brake lines.
3. for the same reason the rear shock is woefully out of its comfort zone even when cranked all the way up in preload and rebound.
4. On the way down, the CCT gasket began to leak, probably due to the constant 75-85mph for hours on end.
5. Need higher bars and big, thick grips.
6. Need lowered pegs (preferably pivot pegs)

On the psycho side, I can't wait to finish these mods and do another long run. I know this isn't exactly what the DR was designed for but that's half the fun.

[AST236]

Originally Posted by Rugby4life

Update

I just got back from a 1400 mile round trip from S.C. to New Orleans and back and have a few new revelations.
1. The stock seat should be sent to Gitmo. Then we would really get some useful intel. In other words, I would rather be waterboarded than do that trip again with that seat (and I used an Airhawk seat pad on top of it).
2. Between my weight, fully loaded top case and hard saddlebags, plus an Acerbis tank full of gas, all up weight is double the claimed dry weight. That considered, I really, really need the 320mm brake upgrade and steel brake lines.
3. for the same reason the rear shock is woefully out of its comfort zone even when cranked all the way up in preload and rebound.
4. On the way down, the CCT gasket began to leak, probably due to the constant 75-85mph for hours on end.
5. Need higher bars and big, thick grips.
6. Need lowered pegs (preferably pivot pegs)

On the psycho side, I can't wait to finish these mods and do another long run. I know this isn't exactly what the DR was designed for but that's half the fun.

Glad you got home ok. Hit me up next time you're down this way.

[Rugby4life]

Originally Posted by AST236

Glad you got home ok. Hit me up next time you're down this way.

You know I will. Next time I'll try to budget more time for back road riding.

[local1]

i just bought a 1997 dr650se that was a stolen recovery..the ignition is ruined along with several other wires,where they
tried to hotwire? i tried the ignition switch bypass i read here with using a switch and resister(SP?..pui) so i am trying to
figure our where the problem is? could someone please help me? sorta like when the key is turned the path the electric takes to make things work??i am trying to narrow it down why i can get the lights to work but
nothing going to the coils?

[Emmbeedee]

This'll be old news to some, but I thought I'd post it anyway.

After a friend from Newfoundland rode my DR last weekend I started to think about what maintenance I had done on the bike since I've owned it and aside from oil changes and carb work, I realized I'd done virtually nothing on the bike!

When I bought it it had 24,000 kms and now it has 35,467, so the valves were ready for checking. They're called for at 12,000 km intervals, which was nice to see.

As some of you already know the valves on the DR are screw adjusted.

There's not a whole lot involved with doing the valves but here's what I did:

• Removed side covers, seat and tank.
  
• Wash bike to remove years of mud.
  
• Blow dry the engine with compressed air to get water and dust off.

Now the actual valve adjusting begins:

• Removed one spark plug, remembering to blow compressed air down in the plug cavity so any dust stays out of the plug hole.
  
• Removed crank nut cover and timing plug.
  
• Rotate engine counter clockwise to compression stroke and line up the T in the hole.

• Take off valve covers.
  
• Set valves to indicated values. (See below)

I made up a little tool to rotate the square valve adjuster tips. I had found a suggestion somewhere to use a Robertson screw (only in Canada, eh?) head to hold the adjuster, and a wine bottle cork seemed just the thing to hold the adjuster with.

Here's the tool in place.





These are the tools you need - a feeler gauge bent to shape so it goes in easily (there's not a lot of room in there)



So all in all, it's an easy job!

This friend's put a lot of miles on a KLR and was shocked at how much better the DR was. He said he's going to go home to "punch the KLR in the teeth".

[alonzo]

Originally Posted by procycle

Lots of riders do the same as you and aren't bothered by the fact that the sprocket is allowed to float around on the shaft.
It doesn't change my opinion. I don't think it is a good idea.

Jeff --
Want to say more about this? Like, why do you feel that the bolt-on retainer is better than the 'E' clip? I know that you're in a position to have some real life experience on this.
Thanks.
-- alonzo

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by alonzo

Jeff --
Want to say more about this? Like, why do you feel that the bolt-on retainer is better than the 'E' clip? I know that you're in a position to have some real life experience on this.
Thanks.
-- alonzo

I think you missed this:

Originally Posted by procycle

Right, I don't believe using the clip is a good idea. The countershaft was not designed to carry the sprocket that way. In my opinion the clip allows way too much float and wobble of the sprocket.

Originally Posted by procycle

+1
The clip method of retaining a front sprocket is appropriate for bikes that were originally designed for it. They will have a shoulder on the shaft and the clip will hold the sprocket firmly against that shoulder.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I think you missed this:

Thanks. I couldn't have said it better myself!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Rugby4life

Update

I just got back from a 1400 mile round trip from S.C. to New Orleans and back and have a few new revelations.
1. The stock seat should be sent to Gitmo. Then we would really get some useful intel. In other words, I would rather be waterboarded than do that trip again with that seat (and I used an Airhawk seat pad on top of it).
2. Between my weight, fully loaded top case and hard saddlebags, plus an Acerbis tank full of gas, all up weight is double the claimed dry weight. That considered, I really, really need the 320mm brake upgrade and steel brake lines.
3. for the same reason the rear shock is woefully out of its comfort zone even when cranked all the way up in preload and rebound.
4. On the way down, the CCT gasket began to leak, probably due to the constant 75-85mph for hours on end.
5. Need higher bars and big, thick grips.
6. Need lowered pegs (preferably pivot pegs)

On the psycho side, I can't wait to finish these mods and do another long run. I know this isn't exactly what the DR was designed for but that's half the fun.

You can go a long way to getting the DR more touring friendly, adding comfort and better suspension. But for long, straight freeway riding it would not be my first choice. I've done it ... and plenty, but not the best bike for droning. I hope you have the chance to get the DR onto some decent twisty roads, maybe some dirt roads ... and really discover how well it does there.

I am not fond of any sort of seat pad. Too much movement. Thick grips reduce my "feel" for the bike and numb steering feedback. I stay with stock or similar. Alu fat bars help with vibes however ... and typically you can add a riser when you do the install.

On long rides its really important to do really good stretching before getting on. Then do more at gas stops. Stay loose.
For long, straight boring rides ... I miss my Vstrom. (DL1000)

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by procycle

Nope, we don't keep any factory retainer plates on hand. They don't fit with the very popular 14T sprocket.

I've used a JT 14T sprocket with stock retainer. But you do have to grind the lip down just a hair for clearance ... otherwise it rubs on the chain. Takes about 30 seconds on a grinder to fix it, IIRC. I did this in 2006.

[Heavy]

I'm late to the party but....

http://cycle-ergo.com/

From pure measurements, the KLR and DR are pretty close.

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Don't hate me for this, but I got to ride a stock 2008 KLR650 (so the new style), and found its ergonomics far more comfortable than my DR650.

Now, sure, one could point to the peg placements and/or the wider saddle - but I mean beyond those with the simple seat-to-handlebar position it put me at. Yet, without the bikes side-by-side, I can't figure out what it is that seems so relaxing about the handlebars - why does the KLR put less strain on the shoulders and make it feel like the bars or grips are exactly in the right place for day-long rides?

I've read through that older review of the two, and the KTM, with side-by-side pictures and comparisons, but that was for the older style KLR650's.

[Motodeficient]

Originally Posted by ram1000

My DR is an 08 and has had nothing but a clip on it since breaking in. I use it for long distance weekends and dirt biking, and trailing. The clip is fine..Lets do this- How many have lost a clip while riding?

I don't think anybody said they are worried about the clip falling off? They are worried about unnecessary wear on the hard to replace countershaft.

[TrophyHunter]

Thx Emmbeedee! Saved to my e-file of DR stuff.

[BadDogMax]

Originally Posted by Motodeficient

I don't think anybody said they are worried about the clip falling off? They are worried about unnecessary wear on the hard to replace countershaft.

If the sprocket can float on the shaft, wouldn't that spread the wear out over a larger area (=less wear in one spot)?