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Old 05-26-2012, 09:31 AM   #64936
thumpididump
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Nice! Be careful not jerk your eye balls out of their sockets if you grab the bakes quickly!




Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:



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Old 05-26-2012, 09:45 AM   #64937
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I have ran into another problem while trying to get my new to me bike to start.the starter doesn't work.I guess you can see where this would be a problem..my question is does anyone know what other bikes this starter was used on? I am going to try and find a used on and was hoping it was used on others as well..mine is a 97 model..thanks
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:27 AM   #64938
opium89
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Another few questions for you folks. What do you recommend as replacement levers for the clutch and front brake? The ones currently on the bike have a lot of horizontal slop in them. This being my first DR, I am not sure if they are worn, or just like that. For replacements, I would prefer to find something strong and light.

Second question, this bikes going to need bearings. Swing arm, triple, wheel bearings...I am sure they are all going to need a refresh. Are you using stock bearings, or is there good quality aftermarket options available?

Last one, what do you recommend for a good quality, durable clutch? This bike's going to do the T.A.T. next year, so it's definitely on the replacement list.

EDIT: A little reading turned up this.

http://www.starcycle-usa.com/servlet...11-1996/Detail

Any feedback on the EBC kit from those who have installed it?

As always, any info is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:57 AM   #64939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLRN View Post
It's a mellow Saturday evening and I've got some time to address the above "Nope" response. Maybe some pictures will help........this is a stock DR650 operator foot peg assembly with two rubber dampening bushings and center metal sleeves/bushings that the bolts clamp thru to hold it to the *round* mounting stand-offs coming off the frame tube. This is stuff that most DR650 owners have seen before if they have removed their operator foot peg brackets.

This picture shows the CNC machined drop bracket for the operator foot peg assembly....I chose to coat mine with spray-on truck bed liner material. There is a round stand-off that duplicates the diameter of the original round stand-of on the DR650 frame.


Also there is a hardened washer(slightly smaller diameter than the stand-off) that goes up against the machined aluminum stand-off surface to take the clamp load of the steel bushing when the operator foot peg is mounted to the drop bracket. Here is a picture that shows that;


PS..........my bike was the test bike for the prototyping of these drop brackets so that is why I have the above info.
XPLRN, thanks for taking the time to post pics and explain. I used NordieBoy's template and made my own brackets. To retain the cushion I used washers as shown in the second pic. At that time, several guys were using larger washers to get rid of the cushioned pegs. I hope your friend is able to sell the last sets, he took the time to make a well thought out product.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Each to their own, but horror stories of rejetted BST40's, is so fucking amusing.

996DL
And frequent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
yust don't ever ride a dr650 w/a properly set up tm40 or fcr39 carb, and you will remain happy. my bike ran fine w/the stock carb. but now, it really runs great...

doug s.
I rode my DR for 15k miles before considering suspension mods, ignorance is bliss. It was expensive but would be the first second thing I do on my next DR (right after the concrete seat). It's a remarkable improvement.
I fear that the TM-40 may have the same effect, ignorance is bliss II.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:07 AM   #64940
Olas
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Well, I found a nice looking FCR 39 on ebay off an '06 YFZ450 that I will be adapting to my DR650. Cost was $150 shipped and I hope that with re-jetting and the cost of the adapter needed for the airbox boot I will have it ready to go for < $225.

I have emailed mxrob about getting the adapter for the airboot from him, but I'm not sure if he actually sells these. Waiting to hear back still. He has the dimensions needed to have a machine shop make one online but I hope I can just get one from him.

Anyone that has gone this route - where did you get the adapter?
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:12 AM   #64941
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I installed the TM40 carb.The jetting seems to be good. Just wondering if setting up the AP to squirt sooner on rapid throttle opening is better for performance. The bike doesn't hesitate or bog when you twist the throttle but it does start to accelerate and then really pulls hard. Would a quicker squirt help out?

Thanks
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:23 AM   #64942
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The 1150 rider put his foot down at the wrong time and the rock moved...
Torn muscles up the back of his leg.
That's why I got to ride the 1150...
I didn't see anything there that would be fun on an 1150.

Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Month from today leaving on a 2500 mile trip, will be nearly all on-road as couple guys coming along are taking street bikes/cruisers.

I'll have my DR650 on supermoto wheels and currently running a 14/43 gearing which is real fun around town but pretty rev happy for 60mph (~4300 rpm). How would switching to 16/42 be for the trip? We don't really plan on taking freeways but mainly back roads and small highways were we will average about 50mph or so.

I'd like to keep the revs down a bit lower to help save on fuel.

Any of you guys running the 16/42?
I like what the 16t does for the DR in a mellow environment. But I don't use 5th until 60mph. If your speeds will be under 65-70, the stock 15t works very well. I don't know if the 16t will fit with a 43t rear. Looking at mine (16-42), the cam is at 1.1, so there should be enough chain for just one more tooth.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:32 AM   #64943
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The 1150 rider put his foot down at the wrong time and the rock moved...
Torn muscles up the back of his leg.
That's why I got to ride the 1150...
Nice job on the videos. You guys have some great riding there. Better you than me riding the big GS over those rocks.
I've done it too but too nerve racking. I had to ride a friends R12GS out of a bad area in Copper Canyon. Scared the crap out of me ... thank god I never crashed that monster.

You end up having to go faster than you should over the rocks to keep the Pig going straight. But if you go too fast ... you won't make the turn or you hit something too hard! The steep downhills are what get me on a big bike.
I suck at that. Dirt bike please!
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:56 AM   #64944
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Month from today leaving on a 2500 mile trip, will be nearly all on-road as couple guys coming along are taking street bikes/cruisers.

I'll have my DR650 on supermoto wheels and currently running a 14/43 gearing which is real fun around town but pretty rev happy for 60mph (~4300 rpm). How would switching to 16/42 be for the trip? We don't really plan on taking freeways but mainly back roads and small highways were we will average about 50mph or so.

I'd like to keep the revs down a bit lower to help save on fuel.

Any of you guys running the 16/42?
i am running 16/42 on my 'tarded dr650, but as i mentioned earlier, with 150/60/17 rear tire, this is about the same gearing as stock 15/42 w/stock 120/90/17 rear tire.

here is a good website for calculating speed/gearing; you can plug in the dr650. it allows you to plug in different tire and sprocket sizes to show speed at different rpm and gears:

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

my bike rips w/its present set-up, geared about stock, but per the carb discussion, having an open exhaust and pumper carb really helps. i am likely going to go w/a 150/70/17 rear tire on my next tire change, which would increase the speed at 4550rpms to 72.4mph from 69mph. according to the calculator, 4550 rpms on a stock dr650 will equate to 68.5mph. (note that 15/42 is stock for usa; 15/41 is stock for non-usa.) as i am rarely likely to go off-road, and as the bike has amazing throttle response w/its hi-flow exhaust and fcr39 carb, i am more interested in lower rpms at speed.

ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:02 PM   #64945
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Another few questions for you folks. What do you recommend as replacement levers for the clutch and front brake? The ones currently on the bike have a lot of horizontal slop in them. This being my first DR, I am not sure if they are worn, or just like that. For replacements, I would prefer to find something strong and light.
Stock Suzuki. Stay away from the crap, many are lose and sloppy. Stock are not expensive. Levers don't wear. They are probably aftermarket and don't fit. Typical.

Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Second question, this bikes going to need bearings. Swing arm, triple, wheel bearings...I am sure they are all going to need a refresh. Are you using stock bearings, or is there good quality aftermarket options available?
What year is your DR? How many miles? How do you know your bearings are shot? Have you seen them with your eyes? Have you checked correctly for abnormal movement or "slop"?

I would avoid ALL BALLS bearings or anything from Moose. I would either go with stock Suzuki or another reputable Japanese, US or German bearing OEM. FAG, Koyo, many more. If you are turning the bike over, then does not matter. Don't over pack the grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Last one, what do you recommend for a good quality, durable clutch? This bike's going to do the T.A.T. next year, so it's definitely on the replacement list.
Is your clutch slipping? If so, this would be RARE for a DR650. That said, if the clutch is very high mileage and you slip your clutch a lot off road ... then go ahead and replace it. Do it right.

EBC clutch are sub standard. No question in my mind ... go with OEM Suzuki clutch plates. EBC will COOK, BURN and GLAZE quickly given any sort of abuse. For the long range ... go with stock plates. Be sure to soak in oil before installation.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:07 PM   #64946
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Well, I found a nice looking FCR 39 on ebay off an '06 YFZ450 that I will be adapting to my DR650. Cost was $150 shipped and I hope that with re-jetting and the cost of the adapter needed for the airbox boot I will have it ready to go for < $225.

I have emailed mxrob about getting the adapter for the airboot from him, but I'm not sure if he actually sells these. Waiting to hear back still. He has the dimensions needed to have a machine shop make one online but I hope I can just get one from him.

Anyone that has gone this route - where did you get the adapter?
you can try this:
http://www.nossmachine.com/fcr_adapters.htm
http://www.nossmachine.com/index.htm

i got one, but ended up not using it; ditching the airbox completely for a k&n cone filter and drycharger filter sock. i didn't do the install myself, but the shop said they were getting leakage at the carb-to-sleeve connector, so they gave me the filter/sock at no charge... i question their inability to get a proper seal, but i was fine w/the solution, so i didn't pursue it.

doug s.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:26 PM   #64947
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregdee View Post
Please help! I get the impression this must be obvious because no one is discussing it. We just received an new 5.3 gal tank for the wife's DR and we're trying to install it. But I can't figure out what to do with the other line that goes over to the output side of the carb. The petcock that came with the tank only has a single connection while the stock one has two. Do I use the stock petcock?
I like the stock vacuum petcock, I can't be trusted to remember to shut off a manual every time. There are too many opportunities to forget and fill the engine with gasoline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
spend all that money on that cool disk and no SS hose.
I would imagine the big disk with the rubber hose is equal to a stock disk with stainless steel hose in braking power.
I've read that the stainless line moves the lever effective point further out from the grip. To retain the action closer to the grip, an adjustable lever needs to be used. If I want more, I'll do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
Nice! Be careful not jerk your eye balls out of their sockets if you grab the brakes quickly!
My concern was: "Am I going to lowside using too much front brake slowing for the fast dirt turns on my favorite roads?"

I didn't know if I was braking by applying X number of pounds to the lever everytime or if I was braking using feedback from the front tire. After a few turns I was glad to find I'm using tire feedback, I squeeze until the tire just starts to slip. Since I don't have to squeeze so hard, I use a lot less energy over a 20 mile section. It is noticeable.

Another thing suggesting that the brake works much better: my .46 Eibach fork springs are now too soft, I'm getting too much fork dive (on pavement). This hadn't been a problem since I replaced the stock springs. I'll be adding some fork oil to help out the springs: Less air, less fork diive. I have the stock 19.1 oz of oil in them now. No, I didn't measure the oil level with the legs collapsed.

Edit: Since Shu, Grifter and others, felt that the stock pads work better than the EBC I had been using, I went back to stock pads.

Next up, the rear; recommended by BergDonk and Thumpididump:
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 12:34 PM
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:34 PM   #64948
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Dry Case?

Hey pros, I got a quick question about my dr650.
About a month ago I opened up my case and removed my clutch.
Is it bad to leave this bike sitting without oil in it very long?
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:35 PM   #64949
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Stock Suzuki. Stay away from the crap, many are lose and sloppy. Stock are not expensive. Levers don't wear. They are probably aftermarket and don't fit. Typical.

What year is your DR? How many miles? How do you know your bearings are shot? Have you seen them with your eyes? Have you checked correctly for abnormal movement or "slop"?

I would avoid ALL BALLS bearings or anything from Moose. I would either go with stock Suzuki or another reputable Japanese, US or German bearing OEM. FAG, Koyo, many more. If you are turning the bike over, then does not matter. Don't over pack the grease.


Is your clutch slipping? If so, this would be RARE for a DR650. That said, if the clutch is very high mileage and you slip your clutch a lot off road ... then go ahead and replace it. Do it right.

EBC clutch are sub standard. No question in my mind ... go with OEM Suzuki clutch plates. EBC will COOK, BURN and GLAZE quickly given any sort of abuse. For the long range ... go with stock plates. Be sure to soak in oil before installation.
Thanks for these. Having it only two days, I am just starting to get in to it. It's a 2000 model with 15,000 on the clock. I removed the Kouba links yesterday to raise the bike back up, and found the swing arm link bearings were very dirty, had a little rust, and felt a little rough. The shock is being sent out for upgrade soon, so I might as well do the bearings at that time. As for the others, I will decide that when I get there, but I don't imagine they are going to be in any better shape. As for the clutch, I haven't put any miles on it yet, I did however notice that the engagement was VERY close to the grip, which I took to be an indication the plates are getting worn. This plus the mileage, plus the pending 3000 mile trip over the Rockies dictates it's getting a new clutch before we set off.

As for the levers, they look to be very much stock. I bought two of these bikes, but the other is just being picked up in California this afternoon. I guess I will just compare the slop in the levers to the other bike when it makes it here in a few months.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:38 PM   #64950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewDR650seOwner View Post
Hey pros, I got a quick question about my dr650.
About a month ago I opened up my case and removed my clutch.
Is it bad to leave this bike sitting without oil in it very long?
Keep any exposed holes covered, keep the engine dry, and flush the oil when you get it back together. If you live in a damp climate or near the ocean, you may want to get it back together as soon as you can.
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