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Old 06-05-2012, 08:06 PM   #65476
John E
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I give up....

I've tried reloading the image in the Trail Jack post 3 times to turn the bottom one into a vertical, won't do it for whatever reason.


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Old 06-05-2012, 08:07 PM   #65477
opium89
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Is anyone using the solid mount lowered foot pegs that are available from Procycle? I am curious to know how much more they vibrate if any. Also, can you recommend me a rear lever that is a little more substantial than the stock unit?
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:26 PM   #65478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
My shopping trolley.

Guess what sort of front end it is.

DRZ400? Looks like stock shock though. Might be doing one for a mate down the coast. He's got a DR650 and 3 DRZ400s, and thinks one could donate its suspension to the DR650. We shall see.

Steve
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:29 PM   #65479
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
+1
I think what you said has even more relevance with loaded DR650's and the stock spring not to mention the rising rate link and its initial travel.

I don't think copy/paste road bike sag info applies to
a DR650 loaded for a month away in the sticks with the rear looking like a 1964 Impala.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:34 PM   #65480
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Is anyone using the solid mount lowered foot pegs that are available from Procycle? I am curious to know how much more they vibrate if any. Also, can you recommend me a rear lever that is a little more substantial than the stock unit?
I have solid mounted pegs on mine and the vibes are a non event for me. YMMV of course

The PC ones go down, but not back. I made mine up to go further back. Suits me. FWIW, the peg position is largely determined by back of the peg, which locates your instep, so wider pegs also have the effect of moving your feet back.

My pegs are now centred a bit behind the back mounting bolt, which makes for a better standing position for me. And the Fastway pegs are wider than stock for a better platform and more rearset.


Steve
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:06 PM   #65481
ram1000
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Has anyone knowledge of the poly skid plates made by Acerbis or Hyde? I want one for my DR650.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:18 PM   #65482
LexTalionis
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Very ingenious, thanks for the pics.

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by John E View Post
now with pics...!

I hope...

[IMG][/IMG]












The first pic shows the parts, pretty simple really. 12" of 1" diameter aluminum tubing, a 10mm threaded rod, nuts and washers, ratcheting box wrench from Harbor Freight and the base plate is an electrical box cover with a 10mm nut silver soldered in place.

As I've commented before, I have a bad knee and wanted a jack that will allow me to lift the front or the rear wheel without me needing to lift the bike and put a simpler jack or stand in place. Using the nut and the wrench allows me to place the jack into position and just screw it up...;^)

I keep a small velcro strap wrapped around the handlebar to lock the front brake on when I use the jack on the rear wheel.

The bolt thru the skidplate will easily hold the weight of the bike.

Way overdone but it suits my needs and I had most of the parts for the first version in the shop anyway. I bought some new parts, ie, tubing and the wrench for this latest version. Cost me less than any commercially available one that I've found and while it takes a minute or two to use, it's really easy to lift the bike with it.

For those who might be wondering, I can lift things with my knee including the bike if it should take a tumble but the issue with my knee made it really hard to try and lift the front end and install a regular jack by myself. Decided to spend more time thinking and twisting a wrench than sweating and risking further injuries.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:24 PM   #65483
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Hey Berg...

Matt is yet to supply the bash plate for me. You got mine....ya bastard.

Looky at my B&B



A ride in the rain up in the Brindies turned nasty when I found a tree root. In full HD on the GoPro, I go from upright to splat in a frame and a bit.

I got up, swore, looked at the bike and the large trail of oil running down hill, picked it up and threw it onto the other side.
You need to post your skidplate picture in this thread I started: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790410

The first pic is of my DR650 skidplate.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:55 PM   #65484
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I have solid mounted pegs on mine and the vibes are a non event for me. YMMV of course

The PC ones go down, but not back. I made mine up to go further back. Suits me. FWIW, the peg position is largely determined by back of the peg, which locates your instep, so wider pegs also have the effect of moving your feet back.

My pegs are now centred a bit behind the back mounting bolt, which makes for a better standing position for me. And the Fastway pegs are wider than stock for a better platform and more rearset.


Steve
That's a great mod. I've always felt the DR pegs are too far forward. Makes it more difficult to transition from seated to standing. Also not ideal for aggressive street riding.

I notice this more dramatically when getting off my Yam WR250 and onto the DR. Once I'm up on the DR I'm not too bothered (could be better of course) but its the getting up and down all day that wears on me. I don't mind the height of the pegs (I am short) but would love them further back.

Interesting you didn't notice vibes. I've not tried rider pegs undamped. Only passenger pegs, which were awful, IMO. But of course they mount in a different place. Wish I had a machine shop!
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:21 PM   #65485
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That's a great mod. I've always felt the DR pegs are too far forward. Makes it more difficult to transition from seated to standing. Also not ideal for aggressive street riding.

I notice this more dramatically when getting off my Yam WR250 and onto the DR. Once I'm up on the DR I'm not too bothered (could be better of course) but its the getting up and down all day that wears on me. I don't mind the height of the pegs (I am short) but would love them further back.

Interesting you didn't notice vibes. I've not tried rider pegs undamped. Only passenger pegs, which were awful, IMO. But of course they mount in a different place. Wish I had a machine shop!
I originally cut down and rearset the stock hangers but never really came to terms with the rubber mounts. Being heavier than average might not have helped re their movement either. Also the rearsetting probably put more load on the rear bolt too which would not have helped re movement. The vibes are a non issue through the pegs for me, but I did fiddle with bar end weights to get that better. Its all solid mounts to the top triple too. I did some nerve damage to my right arm road racing many years ago and still suffer the after effects if the ergos and vibes through the hands aren't right, and still do anyway some days, just try to delay the onset and manage it.

With the pegs back and the bars up and forward the standing position not so awkward. Trying to stand and have your arms going straight down gives no leverage on the bars, means you are off balance, and limited sustainability because you use lots of energy to maintain the position. The seat peg relationship, along with leg length determines how easy it is to transition to standing. Having stuffed knees means I pay attention to getting this right.

Steve.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:23 PM   #65486
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I recently installed the Pro-Cycle jet kit in my stock '09 DR650 and want to know if the pilot jet should also be changed.

I read through the BST40 Bible thread and it says that the pilot jet should be increased from the stock 145 to 147.5 if running a cut air box and aftermarket exhaust. The Pro-Cycle kit did not include this.

Is this the part I need? http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/MIKUN...__P2617C26.cfm

Also, I seem to have misplaced my instructions for the Pro-Cycle jet kit. Could someone scan them and post 'em for me? I just really need to double check a few things. The bike runs pretty well but does have a little surge at 55-65 mph and an annoying tendancy to want to stall (just above idle) when warm. Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:27 PM   #65487
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
DRZ400? Looks like stock shock though. Might be doing one for a mate down the coast. He's got a DR650 and 3 DRZ400s, and thinks one could donate its suspension to the DR650. We shall see.

Steve
They are a set of 1998 RM250 Showa forks with .55 springs. Dual chamber cartridges. The Suspension Smith stripped and rebuilt them. I got them on Flea Bay for $170, but they cost a total of $670 (including revalve and springs and postage) by the time they were back to "as new".

300mm of shear bloooody luxury.

Externally they are very similar, but not the same, as the DRZ forks. They are 50mm. Fully adjustable.

Not as good as the 2 USD DRs I built. But a damn sight better than standard.

Rear end is the Standard shock with the RaceTech internals. Very nice. I think the spring was an 8.3kg/mm IIRC. Better than going the gold valve option, that I wasted money on previously. Not as good as my RMZ rear end conversion, but less problems from a "registration" point of view.

Note the footpegs in the picture. Positioned right where I want them and no under hanging parts to get smashed.

If only I could get a decent bash plate...it's only been a couple of years...family hey!

My DRMZ "Super Enduro" is upside down in the garage with the engine stripped out and the lower frame in various stages of welded back together after Saturdays meeting with the rock. It crushed the frame rail under the engine, and broke the welds around the footpeg mounts. I couldn't cut it out with the engine in, and I couldn't get the engine out with the frame bent, so I had to heat the tube up with the blowtorch and made a slide hammer and pulled the frame tube roughly straight, away from the engine, removed engine and then cut the busted section out, but only after I'd made a jig to hold it all in line.

Sometimes shit just happens.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:51 PM   #65488
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
The bike runs pretty well but does have a little surge at 55-65 mph and an annoying tendancy to want to stall (just above idle) when warm. Thanks!
Yeah, that can be hard to pin down. I have one DR that doesn't do it and one that does.

To cure it, I made it worse. That helped me figure out what was causing it. Not that I did that deliberately, but that was the net result.

Essentially, on my MOST modified DR, I run the Dynojet needle, a 155 main, stock idle jet, 2 full turns mixture, 4 coils cut from the return slide spring, and I drilled out the hole in the slide and added another hole the same size as the original hole. I removed the step from inside the slide, and measured the height change and adjusted the needle accordingly.

I have NO airbox, just a pod filter. That's because i cut all the rear suspension off it and grafted an RMZ rear on, the shock mounts centrally.

During testing, it surged like a bastard because the slide spring was allowing the slide to float up and down a little. I had originally cut 3 coils off, and so I cut off a 4th, made it worse, stretched the spring, stretched it again after a test session, and finally got it right. But it still had the idle problem. I was in the middle of changing the muffler, so I fitted a modified WR450 muffler, with the stock restrictors removed. Straight through, see daylight.

It returns to idle perfectly. It runs better all around. Fuel consumption on trips and trail rides is roughly the same as standard and guys that have ridden it say it goes very nearly as hard as a pumper equipped version.

On my other DR I have the same jets, same needle, 3 coils cut from the spring, 3.5mm hole in slide and the slide step removed, needle raised 2 clips to compensate. It has the standard airbox with the side cover off, the same 2 turns on the mixture screw, and a modified DR exhaust. It tends to want to stall returning to idle. If you snap the throttle open and drop it straight off it drops slightly below idle speed. When hot it can stall. Otherwise it runs really strong and is about average for a DR on fuel consumption.

I believe changing the exhaust will fix the idle stall issue. That's what fixed it on the other DR. I changed the muffler on it and the problem just disappeared. I tried changing jets, needle height, mixture, and opening the airbox on the second DR, but none of it fixed the problem. Made it a little better, but I couldn't get it right. I drilled some holes in the back of the muffler (Snowys patented "Speed holes") and it got better, but still does it slightly.


Note: I was told that modifying the carb to that extent would kill it. It now has 20,000km of trail riding since mods, and it's as strong as ever. The carb looks like the day I first pulled it apart. Spotless and no wear.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:58 PM   #65489
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
You need to post your skidplate picture in this thread I started: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790410

The first pic is of my DR650 skidplate.
Is that like a rule, or some sort of pissing match?

It's dead. It isn't as dead as some Iv'e killed, but it's dead. I tore the BMW one clean off.


B&B...a good entry level bash plate. But if you play harder, you'll kill it. Not enough protection for the cases for my liking. I've holed a stator and a clutch cover now with the B&B on. Both a long way from home.

But it was cheap.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:02 AM   #65490
eakins
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thought i'd post this directly in our own thread.

-wolfman generation 2 racks
-expedition dry saddle bags - black
-optional inner stuff sacks

for sale as package. brand new in box.
http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Expedi...ddle_bags.html
http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Access...tuff_sack.html
whole package shipped to you for $400

pm me for pics
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