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Old 06-07-2012, 07:49 AM   #65566
sagebrushocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Where can I go to see an accurate conversion chart for tire sizes?
https://www.denniskirk.com/help_center/tire-sizes.jsp

then, when you know your sizes, which will be 120/70-17 front and 150/70-17 or 150/60-17 rear for the typical DR 650 supermoto wheel widths:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...reetTireFinder

Michelin Pilot Road 3 are available in these sizes.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:53 AM   #65567
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I must be looking at completely incorrect tire size charts. According the chart that I was looking at (http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcyc.../tire-data.htm), a 4.25 rear tire is a 120/90 tire, not a 150/70. Where can I go to see an accurate conversion chart for tire sizes? I'm still relatively new to motorcycle maintenance that doesn't involve riding to a dealership. If a 3.5 front lets me run Pilot Road 3's, that'd be unbelievably awesome. Those are probably the best commuting/weekend play tires I've had.
You are confusing tire inch sizing with rim width. The tire is always going to be wider than the rim it is mounted on. A 3.5x17 rim will fit a 120/70-17 tire. A 4.25x17 rim will fit a 150/70-17 tire. Every motorcycle tire maker will have many tire choices in these sizes.

To find rim width recommendations you have to look up the specs of the specific tire.
Here is a generic chart for matching rim width and tire size
--> http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...Size_Chart.pdf
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:54 AM   #65568
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Not trying to stir the pot here but the speedometer gear box eliminator is an easy way to clean up the front wheel when installing a Vapor or other electronic instrument panel.

There is another option but nearly as clean looking. You could carefully remove the seal from the speeo drive, remove the plastic worm drive gear, reinstall the seal and put the gutted gearbox back on and place a rubber cap over the speedometer cable hole or seal it with silicone sealant.

Tech23
I have found the easiest way to accomplish this , is to take an old speedo cable and cut the end off and use the threaded piece that already is the correct thread and use it to make a cap. then it is completely reversible. except for the cable.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:01 AM   #65569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have found the easiest way to accomplish this , is to take an old speedo cable and cut the end off and use the threaded piece that already is the correct thread and use it to make a cap. then it is completely reversible. except for the cable.
My vapor came with a rubber plug to go where the speedo drive went. 10K trouble free miles.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:08 AM   #65570
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I just drilled out the rubbers to 12mm.
Another solution is "ROX Risers" They clamp in the stock bar clamps and raise the bars too. They make a set that will accept 7/8's and 1-1/8 bars utilizing removable sleeves.


http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...WT.MC_ID=10010
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:15 AM   #65571
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I installed the oversized FMF Header, Kientech Mid-Pipe, and GSXR 1000 Exhaust yesterday evening. I'd have taken pictures of it but I removed it all after hearing the thing in action and seeing just how poorly the parts fit.

One thing to note: When I went to remove the OEM Header, one of the header bolts was loose. as in I could turn it without using a wrench...talk about a WTF?! moment...

The Oversized FMF Header does indeed rub the frame on the right side of the lower down tube, and it's so close to the oil return line that it frightens me(I could get a feeler gauge between them, but not a piece of card board).

It makes up for it, though, by throwing the Kientech midpipe so out of alignment that it rubs against the shock spring. and makes the cannister rub the rear fender...

Although it was just a 60 second run to see how it sounds, I was not all that impressed with the GSXR Can. It sounds like a bigger bike, that's for sure. I think I'd almost rather have the smaller 650/750 cannister since they're quieter. However, since this is the only can that accepts the Spark Arrestor, I'm kinda stuck using it. Oh well..

I guess I have 2 choices...pay someone to re-bend the FMF pipe or return it. In the end I contacted Pro Cycle to get an RMA for the Oversized header and I'll be replacing it with the Powerbomb since it seems to be the one that was used to mock up and create the Kientech Mid Pipe...Maybe that'll help with the alignment issues.

On a lighter note, Do you know those plastic license plate frames that sit over your plate and hold it to the bike? The ones that have lettering molded into them with the name of the dealership?

The first time I cranked the throttle after installing the Gixxer can, it blew that thing and my plate right off the bike, lol.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:22 AM   #65572
ShadyRascal
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If you use your factory headpipe, after grinding the weld down a bit, everything will fit. Then drill 2 or 3 1" holes in the airbox lid, and install a Dynojet kit properly set up, you'll feel a very large difference in power and be able to still achieve over 50 MPG.

Or say heck with it and sell me the Gixxer can.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:25 AM   #65573
dljocky
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Thanks for the link Procycle.



Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You are confusing tire inch sizing with rim width. The tire is always going to be wider than the rim it is mounted on. A 3.5x17 rim will fit a 120/70-17 tire. A 4.25x17 rim will fit a 150/70-17 tire. Every motorcycle tire maker will have many tire choices in these sizes.

To find rim width recommendations you have to look up the specs of the specific tire.
Here is a generic chart for matching rim width and tire size
--> http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...Size_Chart.pdf
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:27 AM   #65574
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinfever View Post
I got my hands on a Kenda Trakmaster II front tire for free. However, it is an 80/100-21 tire and is quite a bit thinner than the 90/90-21 Trailwing it will be replacing. Will there be any issues running that skinny of a tire on the DR rim?

I have another rim that has a 70/30 street tire, so the Kenda will be my offroad only tire.
You should be fine. Lemme know how it works in the dirt. I was given a set of TrakMaster II's. The rear is really thin 400-18. I'm putting that one on the KTM ( I have an 18" rear for the DR also)and shredding it, in probably 2 rides. The front can do duty on either bike, but will probably see duty on the DR.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:20 AM   #65575
Callahan71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
I installed the oversized FMF Header, Kientech Mid-Pipe, and GSXR 1000 Exhaust yesterday evening. I'd have taken pictures of it but I removed it all after hearing the thing in action and seeing just how poorly the parts fit.

One thing to note: When I went to remove the OEM Header, one of the header bolts was loose. as in I could turn it without using a wrench...talk about a WTF?! moment...

The Oversized FMF Header does indeed rub the frame on the right side of the lower down tube, and it's so close to the oil return line that it frightens me(I could get a feeler gauge between them, but not a piece of card board).

It makes up for it, though, by throwing the Kientech midpipe so out of alignment that it rubs against the shock spring. and makes the cannister rub the rear fender...

Although it was just a 60 second run to see how it sounds, I was not all that impressed with the GSXR Can. It sounds like a bigger bike, that's for sure. I think I'd almost rather have the smaller 650/750 cannister since they're quieter. However, since this is the only can that accepts the Spark Arrestor, I'm kinda stuck using it. Oh well..

I guess I have 2 choices...pay someone to re-bend the FMF pipe or return it. In the end I contacted Pro Cycle to get an RMA for the Oversized header and I'll be replacing it with the Powerbomb since it seems to be the one that was used to mock up and create the Kientech Mid Pipe...Maybe that'll help with the alignment issues.

On a lighter note, Do you know those plastic license plate frames that sit over your plate and hold it to the bike? The ones that have lettering molded into them with the name of the dealership?

The first time I cranked the throttle after installing the Gixxer can, it blew that thing and my plate right off the bike, lol.
I put the 1000 muffler on last year with the TB midpipe modified by Jesse. I don't think I could have obtained a better fit. I kept the OEM headpipe and just did what everyone else does...grinded down the factory weld. As you stated, maybe the headpipe is the culprit.

Are the 650/750 mufflers titanium as well?
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:20 AM   #65576
Mambo Dave
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Just installed Procycle jet kit. I don't know what I did wrong, but the bike runs well, and actually idles better than it did when I bought it a few weeks ago.

...

This isn't the norm for me and carbs, and I'm not performance expert but, hey, if it runs well enough and assures me the bike isn't running lean anymore, then I'm OK with leaving well-enough alone. It's way hotter outside, so maybe that's why it didn't quite wheelie as easily in first (loss of power due to less dense air charge), but mid-range certainly pulls harder than it used to..

Sea-level bike (well, 6 to 20 foot above sea level depending on where I am), DG exhaust, Uni air filter with the side-cover missing (so I didn't open up the already open airbox). Eventually I'll get around to replacing the side cover and cutting the top just to keep more contaminants out, but for now... runs fine. It used to have the stock needle, and it had a 150 main jet placed there by the PO who removed the cover and put the exhaust on (and who put in a metal base gasket).

4th clip position as indicated to start at, 155 main jet, 2 and 1/6 turns out for the new air/fuel screw.

Run up to, and at, 100 MPH seemed fine. Highway speeds seemed fine. Slow 30 MPH roads seemed fine.

I'd like to re-use the washers and lock-washers from the original screws, but can't get them off.

Also found it interesting that the bottom two bowl screws had no lock washers, while the top two screws for the diaphragm did. Now that it's all together I kinda wish I had Locktited all of them, but at the time I didn't know if it would even work.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:28 AM   #65577
neo1piv014
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Thanks for the tire clarification, guys. Definitely much appreciated, and it certainly helped my decision making for the supermoto project.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:37 AM   #65578
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KanadianKid View Post
I put the 1000 muffler on last year with the TB midpipe modified by Jesse. I don't think I could have obtained a better fit. I kept the OEM headpipe and just did what everyone else does...grinded down the factory weld. As you stated, maybe the headpipe is the culprit.

Are the 650/750 mufflers titanium as well?
The connection on the Oversized Kientech Mid-Pipe is pretty frickin' huge compared to the other one.

I may see if I can get the OEM pipe stretched out a bit and the Kientech compressed a little to see if I can get them to mate up and seal properly. (After removing the excess weld, of course)

The 650/750 ones are stainless so they weigh about 2x the Ti one, but that's still 5+lbs lighter than OEM and, with their smaller outlets, they're quieter than the 1000 can. However, since I do need the Spark Arrestor, I'll be sticking with the 1000 cannister.

Worst case scenario, I return the Oversized FMF and buy the Power Bomb for like $20 more...

Best Case scenario, I find a way to mate the OEM to Jesse's midpipe and return the FMF, then use the money on something else
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:11 PM   #65579
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
The connection on the Oversized Kientech Mid-Pipe is pretty frickin' huge compared to the other one.

I may see if I can get the OEM pipe stretched out a bit and the Kientech compressed a little to see if I can get them to mate up and seal properly. (After removing the excess weld, of course)

The 650/750 ones are stainless so they weigh about 2x the Ti one, but that's still 5+lbs lighter than OEM and, with their smaller outlets, they're quieter than the 1000 can. However, since I do need the Spark Arrestor, I'll be sticking with the 1000 cannister.

Worst case scenario, I return the Oversized FMF and buy the Power Bomb for like $20 more...

Best Case scenario, I find a way to mate the OEM to Jesse's midpipe and return the FMF, then use the money on something else
Best-est case no-brainer scenario, use the stock header and Jesse's mid-pipe that fits the stock header for a perfect fit.

Or is there something I am missing?
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #65580
doug s.
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Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Best-est case no-brainer scenario, use the stock header and Jesse's mid-pipe that fits the stock header for a perfect fit.

Or is there something I am missing?
fmf powerbomb header w/the hi-flo kientech midpipe and a gsxr1000-type can gives amazing flow; throttle response from idle redline to is fantastic w/fcr-39 carb, and open (or no) airbox. i yust got back from a 70 mile backroad romp - this set-up is fantastic! definitely worth futzing w/clearances to get it right.

doug s.
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