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Old 06-10-2012, 11:01 PM   #65731
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I did about a 150 miles loop today with 40 miles of dirt (even a little single track) I was actually impresed with the Shinkos so I can't wait to see how a correctly mounted front does.
Don't hold your breath. There is a theoretical advantage in running the front tyre with the chevrons backwards per the directional marking on the sidewall (the tyre will creep in towards the inside of the curve when you're leaned over), but whether you will be able to notice this is debatable.

Having said this, a theoretical advantage is always better than a disadvantage (with the chevrons pointing forwards the tyre will creep towards the outside of the curve), and accidents can hinge on the tiniest details, so by all means, flip the tyre around (and stay away from a shop that cannot even mount a tyre properly).
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:05 AM   #65732
Nullarbor63
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Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Thanks again for all the discussion and suggestions regard the above post I made...

I have left the rear shock in the raised position, but backed off a bit on the pre-load. I also bumped my tire pressures up to 35 rear and 32 front. This combination of changes seems to have helped quite a bit. I guess it was more of a "twitchy" feeling than a "squirrely" feeling.

Everyone on supermotojunkie says that these tire pressures are way too high. They say I should be running in the mid 20s. But I don't know, I don't think I buy it. They say only heavy sportbikes should be running these pressures. I think they forget that I don't have a 220lb converted CRF450. I have a 350 lb converted DR650, which really isn't a whole lot lighter than sportbikes.

Also, I don't race or even push the bike that hard in corners. Mostly just commuter and burning miles. So I would rather have the bike feel stable under me than have max grip on the edge of chaos.
I have been building 250lb 500cc road rockets since the 80's, and have never run less than 28psi in the front. It feels right because it is Moto. Stick to your guns.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:11 AM   #65733
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Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
High tire pressures do make the DR650 twitchy and even the rear wobbles at higher speed, been there done that. 24/24 psi is about right for riding tight curves with my DR650. I get great tread life and the tires hook up well. Running 30 psi or more would just REDUCE traction. I want the front to hold well, at 30 psi it washes out far too quick. Plus the cupping is horrible. Loaded with gear I'll bump the rear to 28 psi and the front to 25 psi. Both still within OEM pressures. I run a good heavy load with my fat but and all the gear.

Just got back from Robbinsville, NC and loved the curves, its nice to get more wear from the edges of the tires for a change. Makes them last longer.
Yes I ran those pressures with the stock bias ply knobbie tires. But These are Michelin Pilot Power 3 17" sportbike radials that I am running now. You guys are running tubes in your supermoto tires right?

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Old 06-11-2012, 04:48 AM   #65734
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Gonna throw this out there again....

I can't argue against the rare 3rd gear blow-ups and there's certainly no arguing the loose NSU screws that need to be loc-tite in place but...I've noticed something on this thread that I think is creating a "DR650 weakness" where there isn't one. (2 actually).

I always took the time to adjust my chain by running it through it's full range of motion and making sure there were no tight spots. I did this with BOTH chain rollers intact.
Yes! The chain then looked entirely too loose (and certainly had more sag than the DR650 service manual suggests) but, I never had a chain jump and not only was my chain/sprocket life very long lived but, I also NEVER had either of the 2 "DR650 weakness's" rear their ugly little heads either. (in over 100,000 miles accumulated miles with the 3 DR's I've owned)

1. I never had a chain roller break or even bend their mounting bolts.(certainly no ripped out frame mounts)
2. I never had any issues with rear wheel bearings either (or even the countershaft seal leaking or popping loose)

....in all seriousness Guys, Running your chain too tight can be the cause of both problems. (3 if you include countershaft seals)
I honestly think both of those other common weakness's, are being created through improper chain adjustments.

It kills me to think something so obvious can elude soooo many riders.
Might I suggest loosening those chains and letting the stock rollers and rear chain guides do their jobs, instead of blaming Suzuki for a bad design?
I.M.H.O. About all they can be blamed for (for #1 and#2) is bad specs for chain adjustments in their manuals that lead to some of those failures.
F.W.I.W. I'm also NOT a lucky Guy and I weigh over 230lbs. so, I certainly ran all of my DR's suspensions through their full range of motion in use as well. (quite frequently bottomed them out as well)


Dare I say it = some of you don't know how to properly adjust a chain.

Flame away! (I'm NOT going to post any responses to this observation as I feel 100,000 miles of trouble free use is proof enough that I'm correct in what I've concluded)
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:27 AM   #65735
rkjjeep
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Another snorkle post

I tried like hell to get my low mile 2002 DR to run right with the snorkle in place. No matter how rich or lean I went on the pilot or on the light throttle transition I had what felt like a rich dip/bog at light throttle roll on. I was pretty sure it was a rich condition because it was worse downhill than up (the uphill load was better). Anyway I took a minute and pulled the snorkle and the bike was basically transformed. It seems that the snorkle opening is so small that it richens up that small throttle roll on zone enuff to not be able to tune it out - given the nature of this carb.

Probably just stating something you all already know - but save yourself some time and tune the BST without the snorkle to begin with.

Yes, I know there are more gains to be had by opening the airbox more. What worked and made the bike good enuff for me is one turn out on the mixture screw, one shim, and no snorkle.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:33 AM   #65736
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Yes I ran those pressures with the stock bias ply knobbie tires. But These are Michelin Pilot Power 3 17" sportbike radials that I am running now. You guys are running tubes in your supermoto tires right?
Yup. The Powers actually handle like crap when you run them down in the mid 20's. The Michelin rep told me he was constantly getting complaints at the track about how bad the tries were and almost every time it was because they were being run at too low pressure.

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Old 06-11-2012, 05:36 AM   #65737
Bob808
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Does anyone have a complete bearing list from SKF for DR650SE? For the whole engine, since I have it open I might as well do a complete replacement. When I opened the crankcase bearings seemed smooth, but after one week with the crankcase opened they don't feel that smooth anymore. Kind of like they have some sand in them. And seem like all of them do it now. I could get them out and clean them in gasoline real good but I could just change them all if they are not so expensive from SKF. Any link would be perfect. Thanks guys.
Ah, almost forgot, the SKF ones, are they in different fitting standars? I think I can remember a discussion where you had to make sure to get the ones with the tightest tolerance. Is this the case with SKF ones or are they one size perfect fit?
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:03 AM   #65738
Fire Escape
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Question More Tire Pressure Questions

I just resprung my DR to fit (as well as possible) my 'weight class', with 20mm ammo boxes as panniers and me being fat enough to qualify as two persons I went with an 8.3 rear and .55's in front. For the first time the bike is actually tall enough to lean confidently on the (short) side stand. I still compress it enough (in lowered configuration) to reach ground almost flat footed on both sides so I am pleased with where I ended up.
In addition, it was time for new sneakers. I had been pleased with the TKC's as an overall improvement from the OEM Trail Wings for dirt roads and Class VI roads (here that means no longer maintained, depending upon use and abuse they can get pretty rough but certainly not single track), but I never got very confident on loose surfaces. It would appear that everyone else enjoys the loose stuff - I tend to ride sweep (old and slow anyway, I might as well be the guy making sure no one broke down or crashed and was left behind) and can see all the (happy) roost marks left along the way. In an effort to get more bite (and confidence) in the loose stuff, I fitted a MichellinT-63 on back and a Pirelli MT-21 on the front. Having just run our annual BBR, I can't say that it felt better to me and I am wondering if by running suggested two-up pressures 25 front and 29 rear, I am shooting myself in the foot as far as handling the loose stuff. It honestly felt as though I was riding on ice in some of the recently graded sections which wore me out quickly and eroded any (misguided) confidence I had built up heading into the ride.
Should I be dropping the tire pressure down to the low or mid teens like a 'real' dirt bike or am I missing something else in this dual-sport idea? 40 years of riding and I don't seem to know much yet.

Bruce
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:06 AM   #65739
jessepitt
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I run 20r 18f for most dual sporting. More if Im riding mostly street, less for mostly dirt.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:24 AM   #65740
ADVwanaB
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engine vibration at 70mph

is this normal??
the motor really vibrates at around 70mph.
Bike is pretty much stock, drive train is all stock.
4,000 miles, good shape and looks new.
I had her out for a long ride this weekend and found an unpleasant vibration at 70 or so and it goes away at 75 or so.
Thanks,,,,
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:25 AM   #65741
PHILinFRANCE
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USD Forks

Here i go again !!!
But before i start i'll try picking some of your brains !!!

As some of you know i've got a DR 250 Jap Import with USD (up side down) forks and a Dr 650 with standard one !!

The thing i'm thinking is swopping the front ends around

Does anybody know wether this is possible ? i.e. are the head stocks the same , length / diameter / bearing size

Either way , while my foots bust i wont be riding for a week or three so i'll probably strip em both out to see, as the 650 is having a full over haul for Morocco in Sept

Another Question , i've seen you guys over the pond like the COGENT back shocker , any input would be helpful , or may just go for the OHLINS that i can get over here easy enough.

It's amazing what you start messing with on the bike when you can't ride

Cheers all Phil
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:35 AM   #65742
PHILinFRANCE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
I just resprung my DR to fit (as well as possible) my 'weight class', with 20mm ammo boxes as panniers and me being fat enough to qualify as two persons I went with an 8.3 rear and .55's in front. For the first time the bike is actually tall enough to lean confidently on the (short) side stand. I still compress it enough (in lowered configuration) to reach ground almost flat footed on both sides so I am pleased with where I ended up.
In addition, it was time for new sneakers. I had been pleased with the TKC's as an overall improvement from the OEM Trail Wings for dirt roads and Class VI roads (here that means no longer maintained, depending upon use and abuse they can get pretty rough but certainly not single track), but I never got very confident on loose surfaces. It would appear that everyone else enjoys the loose stuff - I tend to ride sweep (old and slow anyway, I might as well be the guy making sure no one broke down or crashed and was left behind) and can see all the (happy) roost marks left along the way. In an effort to get more bite (and confidence) in the loose stuff, I fitted a MichellinT-63 on back and a Pirelli MT-21 on the front. Having just run our annual BBR, I can't say that it felt better to me and I am wondering if by running suggested two-up pressures 25 front and 29 rear, I am shooting myself in the foot as far as handling the loose stuff. It honestly felt as though I was riding on ice in some of the recently graded sections which wore me out quickly and eroded any (misguided) confidence I had built up heading into the ride.
Should I be dropping the tire pressure down to the low or mid teens like a 'real' dirt bike or am I missing something else in this dual-sport idea? 40 years of riding and I don't seem to know much yet.

Bruce

What Jessepitt said , the TKCs are very forgiving !!! ive been down as low as 12 F 14 R but i'm only 12st 8lbs (176lbs)

Got 12000 kms out of the last front and 7000 kms from the rear ( mind you it was a SLICK )

Phil
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #65743
Motodeficient
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Yup. The Powers actually handle like crap when you run them down in the mid 20's. The Michelin rep told me he was constantly getting complaints at the track about how bad the tries were and almost every time it was because they were being run at too low pressure.
Thank you, this puts my mind at ease a bit to confirm my feeling that these tires are a little more stable with higher pressure.

But, could you clarify what you mean by "handle like crap"?

Thanks.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:52 AM   #65744
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Here i go again !!!
But before i start i'll try picking some of your brains !!!

As some of you know i've got a DR 250 Jap Import with USD (up side down) forks and a Dr 650 with standard one !!

The thing i'm thinking is swopping the front ends around

Does anybody know wether this is possible ? i.e. are the head stocks the same , length / diameter / bearing size

Either way , while my foots bust i wont be riding for a week or three so i'll probably strip em both out to see, as the 650 is having a full over haul for Morocco in Sept

Another Question , i've seen you guys over the pond like the COGENT back shocker , any input would be helpful , or may just go for the OHLINS that i can get over here easy enough.

It's amazing what you start messing with on the bike when you can't ride

Cheers all Phil
Bummer about yer foot.

Remember the DR 250 is considerably lighter than the DR. I'm completely unfamiliar with the 250, but it sounds like an entry level bike and I wonder if anyone makes springs heavy enough to support your 650? The front rotor may also be smaller on the 250. But they're both Zuki, so your chances on interchangeability go up.

I love my Cogent but I can see where shipping would be a problem so the OHLINS may be less expensive in the long run. IIRC I paid $450 for the Cogent.

Cheers ER
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:02 AM   #65745
PHILinFRANCE
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Thanks ER70S
It's got to be worth a go then , as i say sore foot ITCHY FINGERS


$450 = about 360 and an OHLINS is around 750, $940 ouch !!!! i'll look into postage
Phil
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