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Old 06-11-2012, 06:43 PM   #65791
ADVwanaB
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Central Jersey
Oddometer: 772
engine vibration at 70mph

is this normal??
the motor really vibrates at around 70mph.
Bike is pretty much stock, drive train is all stock.
4,000 miles, good shape and looks new.
I had her out for a long ride this weekend and found an unpleasant vibration at 70 or so and it goes away at 75 or so.
Thanks
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:03 PM   #65792
speedmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Don't hold your breath. There is a theoretical advantage in running the front tyre with the chevrons backwards per the directional marking on the sidewall (the tyre will creep in towards the inside of the curve when you're leaned over), but whether you will be able to notice this is debatable.

Having said this, a theoretical advantage is always better than a disadvantage (with the chevrons pointing forwards the tyre will creep towards the outside of the curve), and accidents can hinge on the tiniest details, so by all means, flip the tyre around (and stay away from a shop that cannot even mount a tyre properly).
I won’t hold my breath and the DR with Shinko’s is not exactly a single track machine. I do use mine for a little bit of everything and like my current set-up. So keep in mind I was comparing the Shinko 705 to a 120/70 X 17 Continental C-force (the previous front tire and wheel set-up).
That said I like having everything right on my bike and appreciate your speaking up about the discrepancy, thanks
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:08 PM   #65793
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I rode 120 miles on Sunday and my bike started feeling like it was running rough in the lower rpm's. (under 4000) It pulled strong in the higher ranges. It felt kind of like I could feel every pulse of the engine. Could it be the pilot jet gumming up from all the ethanol?
I'm gonna put a new plug in it and check the pilot jet, but wanted to see if someone here ever experienced the same effect.

DJ kit with cut airbox, K&N w/ washable foam overfilter and stock exhaust.
Why not add a good dose of Seafoam and see whether running another tank of fuel through it, clears it up.
Inmates always speak so highly of this aged gas additive, I run it every now and then as a preventative measure and store the bike over winter, with both Seafoam and an Amsoil fuel stabilizer...

996DL
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:10 PM   #65794
TrophyHunter
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Chain adjustment - with pics... http://www.dualsportmoto.com/boards/....php?f=12&t=43

Helped me get my mind around the process anyway. From another Ken in our riding group....there are 4 of us. Oh, and my bro-in-law & father-in-law. That's 6...wierd.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:23 PM   #65795
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Try dropping 5 psi each end.

It may also just be a confidence thing. The bike WILL move about a bit on gravel. With a bit of aggression it will force the tyres to bite through the loose stuff and find some grip, but it will move around.

If you are tense on the bike, relax. The Catch 22 of motorcycling, if you relax it feels good, but its hard/impossible to relax until it feels good. And turn your head, you go where you look, and if confidence is not up, its easy to look straight ahead and down rather than for the corner exit and beyond.

So, get to the corner mid point, relax, look for the next corner entry and beyond, relax, roll on the throttle, keep looking well ahead, relax. Grip the bike gently with your lower body, and not the handle bars. Use the bars to guide your direction, not to hang on, relax, the bike WILL move about a bit on gravel, so relax, look up, and let it do its thing, relax.

Steve
Great advice. Thanks. Must try to get my wife to read and heed it when she's on loose surfaces.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:32 PM   #65796
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
i always took the time to adjust my chain by running it through it's full range of motion and making sure there were no tight spots.

1. I never had a chain roller break or even bend their mounting bolts.(certainly no ripped out frame mounts)
2. I never had any issues with rear wheel bearings either (or even the countershaft seal leaking or popping loose)

might i suggest loosening those chains and letting the stock rollers and rear chain guides do their jobs, instead of blaming suzuki for a bad design?
I.M.H.O.
IMHO 2.
PS: Every time I got a Harley back from dealer service, the belt was too damn tight. The first thing I would do is loosen it. I got over 60,000 miles from the last belt.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:00 PM   #65797
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NSU Problem?

Hi guys, can someone point me to a specific page number where I can find a bunch of info on this NSU issue alot of people talk about?

Thanks fellow Adventurers.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #65798
Tech23
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Location: Arizona Desert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I agree that many out there run their chains too tight, and not just on DR650s. If you are routinely adjusting your chain, then your are probably over tightening it. And I have personal experience of owners manuals getting it wrong too, my gone but not forgotten ZX9R is a case in point.

And I thought that would be all it was with the upper chain roller too, until I came home from a ride in the mountains and the top roller and a piece of the frame was missing. I attributed this to getting on the power (read gas for NA) on landing from jumps. So with full suspension compression and max chain pull, the roller gave way. In fact the frame gave way.

I put it back, moving it a bit up and forward, plating the inside of the frame to strengthen that bit and and most importantly, welding a strap from under the bolt head up to the frame cross member. The bolt is supported from both ends, and the loads on the frame down tube are changed from bending/twisting to shear/compression No issues now, and for about 30,000 kms since repaired, even with the subsequently fitted Ohlins which has a longer travel, both compression and extension.

The stock bottom roller shows no issues. So my thinking now is that the top roller mount to the frame its under engineered for agressive riding, ie jumping, but should be fine everywhere else stock. YMMV. If removing it creates no issues, fine, but I prefer it there.

If you look closely in the pic you can see the support strap. I also fitted the smallest diameter roller I had lying about in the shed. It already had some use, and was grooved from its previous installation.



And borrowed from a previous post re chain tension:


Get all three axes in line for maximum chain length to set tension. Works on all bikes, not just DR650s. As the rear axle goes up or down from the above position, it gets looser as the distance from the rear axle to the cs gets shorter.

Steve

You can see the chain clearance engineered into the shape of the air box in this picture, well above the upper chain roller. There is a large jump in chain tension from one notch on the eccentric chain adjuster to the next. This large jump may contribute to some people running their chain either too tight or too loose. I adjust my chain tension properly as described above and in more detail as posted by TrophyHunter. One thing is for certain, it's proven that removing the upper roller eliminates the risk of frame damage. It is also proven that there is no down side to removing the upper roller, no broken air box's or any other kind of problem associated with upper chain roller removal. The roller could have and should have been located higher on the frame with a beefier mounting, supported at both ends like BergDonks setup. Suzuki has replaced quite a few broken frames under warranty....most go unreported because many Dual Sport warranties expire due to time, not mileage.

Tech23
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Tech23 screwed with this post 06-11-2012 at 10:15 PM
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:10 PM   #65799
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I got over 60,000 miles from the last belt.

How did you do that? Take the belt off the old harley and put it on the new one?













Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:34 PM   #65800
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewDR650seOwner View Post
Hi guys, can someone point me to a specific page number where I can find a bunch of info on this NSU issue alot of people talk about?

Thanks fellow Adventurers.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
What type/size washer do I need to use? How do i measure the thickness (I think I have a micrometer somewhere but not sure)
Thanks to jessepitt:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:53 PM   #65801
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
So keep in mind I was comparing the Shinko 705 to a 120/70 X 17 Continental C-force (the previous front tire and wheel set-up).
That said I like having everything right on my bike and appreciate your speaking up about the discrepancy, thanks
You're welcome!

I have Shinkos 705 too; good road tyres, and I presume they would do reasonably well in hardpack dirt. But be careful on loose dirt conditions (gravel, sand, mud, etc.) because they offer seemingly no traction at all.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:21 PM   #65802
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Here i go again !!!
But before i start i'll try picking some of your brains !!!

As some of you know i've got a DR 250 Jap Import with USD (up side down) forks and a Dr 650 with standard one !!

The thing i'm thinking is swopping the front ends around

Does anybody know wether this is possible ? i.e. are the head stocks the same , length / diameter / bearing size

Either way , while my foots bust i wont be riding for a week or three so i'll probably strip em both out to see, as the 650 is having a full over haul for Morocco in Sept

Another Question , i've seen you guys over the pond like the COGENT back shocker , any input would be helpful , or may just go for the OHLINS that i can get over here easy enough.

It's amazing what you start messing with on the bike when you can't ride

Cheers all Phil
Somewhere in this thread I posted a list of compatible front ends. It was the bearing fitment list for the DR.

Essentially, according to bearing numbers at least, almost any Suzuki dirt bike front end from the last 14 years or so will fit. Some are direct transplants, bearings top and bottom are the same, some require mixing of bearings. Some are obviously better choices than others.

My 2006 model USD RMZ front end required the DR bottom bearing, and the RMZ top bearing (RMZ inner/DR outer shell). My other 2007 RMZ front end required the DR bearings.

The DRZ/RM conventional front end used DR bearings.

All this is straight from memory. Put it this way, I didn't buy any bearings. I got to where I needed to get by swapping bits around from both RMZ and DR. I checked the angles on the face of the bearings shells were the same.

The hardest part is making up a bracket so that the ignition barrel and lock still work. I make a simple bracket out of flat bar that mounts off the bottom of the bar mounts. Red locktite on the bar mounts makes it as hard to steal as the standard barrel set up. You can't get to the bolts when it's in the locked position. Well, not very easily. I'd rate it about the same on a "if I had to steal it" scale.


and I hope you don't get the whacko hate mail regarding putting a 250 front end on a 650. People sending private messages abusing you for suggesting something as simple as a front end swap. Clearly, the ones I had came from people with not the first clue about anything mechanical. Clearly, they have all been brain washed by the "Safety Nazis".


Have fun.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:35 PM   #65803
PHILinFRANCE
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Thanks for all the replies guy some great info there , looks like i'll be laid up for another week or more so i'll start with little steps and see where i end up !!!
Cheers Phil
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:44 PM   #65804
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
...and I hope you don't get the whacko hate mail regarding putting a 250 front end on a 650. People sending private messages abusing you for suggesting something as simple as a front end swap. Clearly, the ones I had came from people with not the first clue about anything mechanical.
As you already know,the 250 and 450 gear is the same thing as far as the fork itself,structure wise.
The front end swaps are a 1 out of 10 to install.

The new front end,2011 RMZ250,certain death when they snap off.
As far as chain tension,the shock has to come out at some stage as do all the bearings need lubricating (from new)
I just cycle the swing arm at that stage so you know exactly what slack is needed,no fairy dust or guessing involved.

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Old 06-11-2012, 11:15 PM   #65805
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVwanaB View Post
is this normal??
the motor really vibrates at around 70mph.
Bike is pretty much stock, drive train is all stock.
4,000 miles, good shape and looks new.
I had her out for a long ride this weekend and found an unpleasant vibration at 70 or so and it goes away at 75 or so.
Thanks
A few of us here have been chasing a drivetrain vibration that is most noticeable in 5th. My 2007 has 4000 miles also and I've eliminated most of the possible culprits. The best theory at the moment is a slight stumble in the engine's output , which triggers a resonance in the drivetrain that slaps the chain on the swingarm hard enough to vibrate the footpegs.

With a 14t front sprocket this was pretty noticeable from 50-55mph on my bike. With a 15t front it's less obvious and has moved up to 65-70mph.

Start with this post and read a few pages of related comments. I'm still on the quest for the ultimate answer... new cush rubbers and a few other parts await the next round of experi-guessing.
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