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Old 06-14-2012, 03:15 PM   #65881
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
Mongle,

Thanks for the reply,

I'm near Pgh, PA. Can the Souix stones be used in place of the neway cutters? I always thought stones were just for a freshen up and that if the guides needed replaced then I would have to cut. Althought I am not super experienced and this is only the second time I'll have to replace guides. I'd like to find someone to do the work as it really isn't that big of a job. I priced everything out today and am looking at $400.00 in tooling if I can't find a good shop!!!!!

Yeh, you are a little far to come by my place. You can cut pretty good with the stones. It all depends on the run-out of the seat to guide after the new guide is put in. Most foreign heads hold tollerances pretty good when replacing guides. Big block Chevys....you can forget it- Head to the DCM machine for cutting.

The stones require : 3 stones (for three angles) stone holder, stone dressers, and a driver and pilot. So it would probably cost more if you were trying to buy for yourself. The driver is air operated and expensive.


Ram- 3 angles has more to due with keeping the seat concentric, moving it to where you want on the face of the valve and the seat width. If you only use a 45 degree angle you can not control those things. By using a 30 degree chamber angle (15 on the DR) and a 60 degree port angle you can make all the seats the same width and keep them all touching the valve face in the same area.

As Doug said some people use 5 angles- This is an old racer trick to get by rules that didn't allow blending of the seat to the chamber and port. Rules allow for valve job; just didn't say how many angles . The additional 2 angles smoothed the flow from port to seat to chamber without violating the "no porting/blending rule". For those that do not race the 5 angles is just fluff. Just get out the porting tools and blend that stuff in and it will flow better then 5 angles.

Mongle screwed with this post 06-14-2012 at 03:57 PM
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #65882
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_NJ View Post
Looking at a used 1992 DR650 - +/-20,000 miles - rebuild top end by professional (auto) mechanic and was checked out by a local Suzuki shop afterward. Looks good for its age needs a few bits, left hand mirror, new flasher for LED's or possibly new switch, figure under $100 to get it road worthy. Wondering what you all think is a fair price and what to look for?

Thanks for your input
Hi and welcome Rob.

Here's a good link for the pre '96 DR.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=DR650
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:05 PM   #65883
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for anyone intrested,
i just put a set of the ranger dirt bagz and dr650 racks up for sale over in the flea market.

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:44 PM   #65884
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post


4. I tried the C-clamp method

Maybe not the best tool too carry around, but saves a lot of time and frustration when changing tires at home.
Nothing,not even a Trailwing will stop a F clamp breaking the bead.
If you put a small piece of timber on one side of the rim and the foot of the clamp against the tyre/tire sidewall its going to break the bead.
At the end of the day if you get a puncture on the side of the road you need 100% peace of mind you can fix it.

If I get time I will get some pics.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:59 PM   #65885
doug s.
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Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post
Has anyone upgraded to the 790 engine modification?? It looks really intriguing on the procycle website.
go search thumpertalk's website for "780" and "790"; there's a few folks over there that have done the kit, both w/and w/o the big walve heads and/or cams...

doug s.
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #65886
opium89
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Has anyone changed out their key switch for an aftermarket version? I am ordering up parts to upgrade the entire front end, and in that list the HDB top clamp and a Vapor system w/ mount to the HDB. I want to replace the stock switch with something I can clamp to the HDB using their bracket. I am not sure which to get, or even where to get it!

Any info appreciated, thanks!
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #65887
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post

To be fair my tire, the trailwings, has been on my bike from new for about 8000+ miles and for about 5 years without a single flat. Never had to change a tube or fix a flat on the road/trails.
When I took my rear wheel to the tire shop to replace my 5 year old OEM traiwing they said it was one of the toughest beads they ever had to break.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #65888
Arc 21
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I read with interest the recent bead breaking thread. For years now I have set my wheels on two four by four wooden blocks underneath the rear bumper of my truck where I place a bumper jack on top of the tire and up against the bumper. Making sure the base of the jack is not contacting the rim I then start jacking up the jack. The weight of the truck breaks the bead every time. Flip it over repeat and then it's ready to dismount.

This can be done with a high lift jack (sheepherder's jack) but my favorite for ease of use is an old 60's -70's car style bumper jack. Strong enough to do the job but light and easy to move around. Once plentiful in junkyards they're now getting a little harder to find.

Never had a tire bead yet that this system could not break.

-Mike-
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:28 PM   #65889
Go Irish75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Haha, yeah, that's the first thing almost everyone asks me, especially other bikers (non-bikers think it's a radio )
In the beginning, I mainly wanted a switch for my main headlight, then I found this nice aluminum box and the idea exploded

I'll count them off as
1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10

1 and 2 control power for each Vision-X LED separately. 3 controls power for both LEDs and was intended to switch power source to my solar panel, which in the end didn't provide enough juice, so it's just a combined power switch. 4 is main headlight power control.

5 is power and source for my voltminder volt meter, displaying either battery voltage or voltage coming from the solar panel (on the top box)
6 is switching the horn button's function between the Stebel and stock horn
7 is heated grips
8 is power control for the trickle charger function that came with the solar panel charge controller
9 and 10 are power control for 12V DC sockets under the seat and inside the top box and power source control between bike's battery and solar panel.

Yeah it's a bit crazy but I love my switches! and you know what, I've had no (real) issues with this electrical system. It doesn't touch the bike's wiring harness.

Here's a picture from my install (F = off, N = on, SLR = solar)

..
A true work of art and genius. Nicely done.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:16 PM   #65890
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Has anyone changed out their key switch for an aftermarket version? I am ordering up parts to upgrade the entire front end, and in that list the HDB top clamp and a Vapor system w/ mount to the HDB. I want to replace the stock switch with something I can clamp to the HDB using their bracket. I am not sure which to get, or even where to get it!

Any info appreciated, thanks!


Ignition Key Switch





I used this one on Procycles site. Worked with the HDB set up.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:22 AM   #65891
kezzajohnson
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right right bloody well right

Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
I can't argue against the rare 3rd gear blow-ups and there's certainly no arguing the loose NSU screws that need to be loc-tite in place but...I've noticed something on this thread that I think is creating a "DR650 weakness" where there isn't one. (2 actually).

I always took the time to adjust my chain by running it through it's full range of motion and making sure there were no tight spots. I did this with BOTH chain rollers intact.
Yes! The chain then looked entirely too loose (and certainly had more sag than the DR650 service manual suggests) but, I never had a chain jump and not only was my chain/sprocket life very long lived but, I also NEVER had either of the 2 "DR650 weakness's" rear their ugly little heads either. (in over 100,000 miles accumulated miles with the 3 DR's I've owned)

1. I never had a chain roller break or even bend their mounting bolts.(certainly no ripped out frame mounts)
2. I never had any issues with rear wheel bearings either (or even the countershaft seal leaking or popping loose)

....in all seriousness Guys, Running your chain too tight can be the cause of both problems. (3 if you include countershaft seals)
I honestly think both of those other common weakness's, are being created through improper chain adjustments.

It kills me to think something so obvious can elude soooo many riders.
Might I suggest loosening those chains and letting the stock rollers and rear chain guides do their jobs, instead of blaming Suzuki for a bad design?
I.M.H.O. About all they can be blamed for (for #1 and#2) is bad specs for chain adjustments in their manuals that lead to some of those failures.
F.W.I.W. I'm also NOT a lucky Guy and I weigh over 230lbs. so, I certainly ran all of my DR's suspensions through their full range of motion in use as well. (quite frequently bottomed them out as well)


Dare I say it = some of you don't know how to properly adjust a chain.

Flame away! (I'm NOT going to post any responses to this observation as I feel 100,000 miles of trouble free use is proof enough that I'm correct in what I've concluded)

Well said and I can't agree with you more. Forget the manual and go with common sense.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:05 AM   #65892
Rusty Rocket
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What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:24 AM   #65893
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
I may have missed it, but everyone who I have seen try to do a streetbike wheel conversion on the DR650 has had to do quite a bit of fabrication.

If someone came out with a hardware conversion kit for a couple different types of readily available streetbike tires, they could probably make a good chunk of change. I guess the liability of such a conversion would be pretty high though for the seller.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #65894
opium89
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Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.






Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post


Ignition Key Switch





I used this one on Procycles site. Worked with the HDB set up.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:46 AM   #65895
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.


Yep. Drops right in. One guide tab/rail that holds it in place and keeps it from spinning, and a couple HD tabs that snap it into the bracket. Works great. Also, the keys look like the ones in your photo, not the monstrosities in the one I posted.
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