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Old 06-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #65881
Arc 21
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I read with interest the recent bead breaking thread. For years now I have set my wheels on two four by four wooden blocks underneath the rear bumper of my truck where I place a bumper jack on top of the tire and up against the bumper. Making sure the base of the jack is not contacting the rim I then start jacking up the jack. The weight of the truck breaks the bead every time. Flip it over repeat and then it's ready to dismount.

This can be done with a high lift jack (sheepherder's jack) but my favorite for ease of use is an old 60's -70's car style bumper jack. Strong enough to do the job but light and easy to move around. Once plentiful in junkyards they're now getting a little harder to find.

Never had a tire bead yet that this system could not break.

-Mike-
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:28 PM   #65882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Haha, yeah, that's the first thing almost everyone asks me, especially other bikers (non-bikers think it's a radio )
In the beginning, I mainly wanted a switch for my main headlight, then I found this nice aluminum box and the idea exploded

I'll count them off as
1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10

1 and 2 control power for each Vision-X LED separately. 3 controls power for both LEDs and was intended to switch power source to my solar panel, which in the end didn't provide enough juice, so it's just a combined power switch. 4 is main headlight power control.

5 is power and source for my voltminder volt meter, displaying either battery voltage or voltage coming from the solar panel (on the top box)
6 is switching the horn button's function between the Stebel and stock horn
7 is heated grips
8 is power control for the trickle charger function that came with the solar panel charge controller
9 and 10 are power control for 12V DC sockets under the seat and inside the top box and power source control between bike's battery and solar panel.

Yeah it's a bit crazy but I love my switches! and you know what, I've had no (real) issues with this electrical system. It doesn't touch the bike's wiring harness.

Here's a picture from my install (F = off, N = on, SLR = solar)

..
A true work of art and genius. Nicely done.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:16 PM   #65883
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Has anyone changed out their key switch for an aftermarket version? I am ordering up parts to upgrade the entire front end, and in that list the HDB top clamp and a Vapor system w/ mount to the HDB. I want to replace the stock switch with something I can clamp to the HDB using their bracket. I am not sure which to get, or even where to get it!

Any info appreciated, thanks!


Ignition Key Switch





I used this one on Procycles site. Worked with the HDB set up.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:22 AM   #65884
kezzajohnson
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right right bloody well right

Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
I can't argue against the rare 3rd gear blow-ups and there's certainly no arguing the loose NSU screws that need to be loc-tite in place but...I've noticed something on this thread that I think is creating a "DR650 weakness" where there isn't one. (2 actually).

I always took the time to adjust my chain by running it through it's full range of motion and making sure there were no tight spots. I did this with BOTH chain rollers intact.
Yes! The chain then looked entirely too loose (and certainly had more sag than the DR650 service manual suggests) but, I never had a chain jump and not only was my chain/sprocket life very long lived but, I also NEVER had either of the 2 "DR650 weakness's" rear their ugly little heads either. (in over 100,000 miles accumulated miles with the 3 DR's I've owned)

1. I never had a chain roller break or even bend their mounting bolts.(certainly no ripped out frame mounts)
2. I never had any issues with rear wheel bearings either (or even the countershaft seal leaking or popping loose)

....in all seriousness Guys, Running your chain too tight can be the cause of both problems. (3 if you include countershaft seals)
I honestly think both of those other common weakness's, are being created through improper chain adjustments.

It kills me to think something so obvious can elude soooo many riders.
Might I suggest loosening those chains and letting the stock rollers and rear chain guides do their jobs, instead of blaming Suzuki for a bad design?
I.M.H.O. About all they can be blamed for (for #1 and#2) is bad specs for chain adjustments in their manuals that lead to some of those failures.
F.W.I.W. I'm also NOT a lucky Guy and I weigh over 230lbs. so, I certainly ran all of my DR's suspensions through their full range of motion in use as well. (quite frequently bottomed them out as well)


Dare I say it = some of you don't know how to properly adjust a chain.

Flame away! (I'm NOT going to post any responses to this observation as I feel 100,000 miles of trouble free use is proof enough that I'm correct in what I've concluded)

Well said and I can't agree with you more. Forget the manual and go with common sense.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:05 AM   #65885
Rusty Rocket
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What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:24 AM   #65886
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
I may have missed it, but everyone who I have seen try to do a streetbike wheel conversion on the DR650 has had to do quite a bit of fabrication.

If someone came out with a hardware conversion kit for a couple different types of readily available streetbike tires, they could probably make a good chunk of change. I guess the liability of such a conversion would be pretty high though for the seller.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #65887
opium89
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Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.






Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post


Ignition Key Switch





I used this one on Procycles site. Worked with the HDB set up.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:46 AM   #65888
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.


Yep. Drops right in. One guide tab/rail that holds it in place and keeps it from spinning, and a couple HD tabs that snap it into the bracket. Works great. Also, the keys look like the ones in your photo, not the monstrosities in the one I posted.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:53 AM   #65889
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there any street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
i have a dr650 hub, and spokes/21" rim from an rm suzuki that will lace right up, if you want a 2nd wheel. these are in good shape; simple leftover parts from when i went w/an rm front end swap on my dr650. i had to use the rm's hub to lace up the wheel/spokes that were on my dr, so lacing up the rm's wheel to the dr hub will not be an issue.

the rm's rim is ~6mm narrower than the dr's; but they both take the same size rubber. i'd use the rm rim for off-road and the dr rim for street riding. feel free to pm me if interested...

doug s.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:47 AM   #65890
opium89
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Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.

I'm glad you've done this before...you're an excellent resource at the moment!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
Yep. Drops right in. One guide tab/rail that holds it in place and keeps it from spinning, and a couple HD tabs that snap it into the bracket. Works great. Also, the keys look like the ones in your photo, not the monstrosities in the one I posted.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:03 AM   #65891
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.

I'm glad you've done this before...you're an excellent resource at the moment!
You only use 2 of the 4 wires. Here is a tutorial type post that thumpididump did on his own webpage.

http://motorcycle-junkie.blogspot.com/2011/02/one-item-to-be-sorted-with-rmz-fork.html

Hopefully this helps clear it up for you. If not or you have other questions, I'd be happy to assist.

Much thanks to Thumpididump for his work on his website. I know I've used it a few times for more than just good reading.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:06 AM   #65892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.
Here's how two others removed their switches.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=25
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:35 AM   #65893
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Here's how two others removed their switches.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=25
Just so we're clear, I am not dumping the key switch for a button, I am just replacing it. Most likely with the option from Procycle.

http://www.procycle.us/dskits/dskit.htm#a059168

I believe the stock switch is a six-wire switch and the replacement is four. I am confident I can figure out what to do with what, but just curious how others have wired theirs.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:57 AM   #65894
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Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post
Has anyone upgraded to the 790 engine modification?? It looks really intriguing on the procycle website.
Yeah. Did it over the winter while I was in there replacing bearings. Bought the oversize valves and installed as well. Bike goes like hell. Lots of nice even smooth power. Gas mileage about the same as before. I really like the peace of mind that my cylinder now has a steel sleeve in it. I don't care how you clad aluminum. It's still a lousy material for cylinders.

It wasn't at all difficult.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:59 AM   #65895
ADVwanaB
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Originally Posted by MADurstewitz View Post
Yeah. Did it over the winter while I was in there replacing bearings. Bought the oversize valves and installed as well. Bike goes like hell. Lots of nice even smooth power. Gas mileage about the same as before. I really like the peace of mind that my cylinder now has a steel sleeve in it. I don't care how you clad aluminum. It's still a lousy material for cylinders.

It wasn't at all difficult.
How is the engine vibration at speed?
is there a noticable vibration difference?
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