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Old 06-14-2012, 07:05 AM   #65881
shaddix
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Central AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
What chain lube are you using? Second possibility is a leaky countershaft seal. Easy enough fix, remove sprocket, use a pick to remove seal, clean surface, install new seal.

#26 here, $5.07:

This stuff has almost no 'fling off', I like it.
Hey thanks a million! I never would figure this out myself
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:03 AM   #65882
Jon_PDX
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Location: Clackamas, OR - USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Hey Jon, yeah, contacted them, no response...
Well that's a bummer... If I still had mine I would send it to you.

Hopefully someone has one that's not being used they can donate to the cause.

Jon...
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:37 AM   #65883
Jammin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Maybe the Vapor screen is electro-magnetically destroyed by all the electrical fields created by that control board.
Hmmm, interesting, possibly, maybe...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
Well that's a bummer... If I still had mine I would send it to you.
Hopefully someone has one that's not being used they can donate to the cause.
Jon...
Thanks for the support, Jon. Hoping to find one within the next two weeks...
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:02 AM   #65884
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question DR or KTM, is that the question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Well, I sure am glad someone got a good laugh out of my mis-adventure!

Seriously though, I did not have any delusions of the DR matching the capabilities of my KTM, but, having said this, and from all the comments that I had read, I had been expecting a well-behaved machine that I could enjoy at a reduced pace. Yes, that is what any of us would expect from reading comments here, however, most of us here have ridden other dual sports, and usually big heavy dual sports, so the DR is a good bike in the segment. For you, me, and others who are coming from a real dirt bike background, the understanding of the comments must be taken in context. The context being that all big bore dual sport bikes are seriously different in all aspects from a pure dirt bike. The first ds bike I bought was a Honda XL350 and I felt like you did. What a terrible handling bike! I HATED IT! But I was coming from light mx bikes. It took a lot of riding to learn the limits of the bike since I kept trying to make it do what I wanted it to do. I also modded it a lot to try to make it handle but most of the money was wasted. Sort of the "putting lipstick on a pig"

But this was not what the bike had in store for me, and I definitely did not enjoy the ride -- if anything, it scared me! There are so many areas where the DR is sub-par to anything resembling a modern bike, that when I came back from my ride I was determined to sell this sorry excuse of a motorcycle. Really, it took me back almost three decades when I first rode an XR and was stunned by its behaviour -- and the DR performed worse than that mid-80s XR! Yes, I completely agree! I moved on after the XL350 to a mid 80's XR and that was a huge improvement over the XL. But I also was used to riding a heavy pig with low power and lousy suspension so of course the modern XR seemed like a REAL dirtbike that was street legal. Jumping forward many years and after selling my first, and so far only, pure street bike (weighed 500 lbs!) I bought my first DR650. Compared to riding my street bike on dirt roads the DR was brilliant. But the front suspension was so week and wimpy I immediately made longer pre-load spacers and changed the fork oil. That made a huge improvement in front but the stock rear shock was basically just a spring so after a couple years I finally sent it off to Rick at Cogent Dynamics and had a full rebuild. Now the back end is great. For a 360 lbs bike that is.

That's why I would like to correct the worst offenders first, the tyres, before I can determine whether it's worth spending time, effort, and money on this bike. Absolutely! My preference is to ride with as much knobbie as I can related to how much pavement I will be riding on. If your use is mostly dirt you can run better tires than the 705's. If you will be on pavement only a small part of the time there are several highly regarded knobbies that work well on the heavy DR. If you will be on pavement most of the time you may find, as many of us do, that running a knobbie on the front and a more street oriented tire on the rear works real well.


The DR is actually the first dual sport bike I have ever ridden, so I do realise that I may be blaming it for flaws inherent in the design of all such bikes in this segment. You got it brother!

As far as training is concerned, I come from the Bailey school of MX riding, and this style has served me very well through the years. Theoretically it should serve me equally well riding any bike on dirt roads, but nothing that I tried on the DR worked. I'm weary of trying a new riding technique, especially one that entails learning to control an abomination like a GS before you downgrade to a more manageable DR. If that's the path to controlling this bike, then I would rather get a plated KTM 4-stroke, enjoy the ride, and learn to live with their increased maintenance.
If you can afford a KTM, don't bother with the DR.

Heresy, I know, but I don't think you will be all that happy with the DR no matter what you do to it with suspension, tires, engine mods and so on. I think you are expecting, or hoping for, something you will not get.

If you start with a KTM, Husky, or Husaberg, you will be happier and it probably won't cost more than you would put into a DR trying to improve it. Now, after a year or so riding and maintaining a KTM, Husky, or 'Berg you may come to appreciate a DR much more for its simple reliability and very low cost of maintenance as well as the many ways it can be modified for personal preference.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:49 AM   #65885
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
Has anyone cut new valve seats after replacing the valve guides on the dr650se cylinder head? Did you run into any unique problems?

I thought it was strange that the neway cutter #615 45degree side was used for both the intake and exhaust when there is a huge disparity between the two sizes.

Where did you buy your cutters and pilots from? I'd like to find a shop that can do the work to avoid buying the tools but thus far, I haven't been able to find a shop locally? Is there anyone that I could ship it too? Anyone up for selling or renting their tooling? I don't mind investing in tools but this will probably be a onetime use tool.

Thanks for any replies.
I recommend sending it to someone who has a Newen Contour BB or EPOC machine.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:01 AM   #65886
cabinfever
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Location: Central Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Soapy water helps here, soak bead, work bead, more soapy water, work bead, etc.
Any insight on the motions to get this method to work? I've tried and tried in my garage to pop a bead with just irons, but can't do it. I always end up using my Harbor Freight bead breaker. Luckily I've never had a flat on the road. The pic helps, but it doesn't show me the actual motion of how the irons work together.
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:02 AM   #65887
DockingPilot
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
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Not happier with the TE610.i prefer the DR. The garbage Zokes on the front end are like riding a 2x4. Knock your teeth loose. Yes super smooth motor but the Dr is my preference.

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:34 AM   #65888
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
If you can afford a KTM, don't bother with the DR.

Heresy, I know, but I don't think you will be all that happy with the DR no matter what you do to it with suspension, tires, engine mods and so on. I think you are expecting, or hoping for, something you will not get.

If you start with a KTM, Husky, or Husaberg, you will be happier and it probably won't cost more than you would put into a DR trying to improve it. Now, after a year or so riding and maintaining a KTM, Husky, or 'Berg you may come to appreciate a DR much more for its simple reliability and very low cost of maintenance as well as the many ways it can be modified for personal preference.
I have both a KTM and the DR650. They fill different needs in my riding choices, would hate to do without either one. Buy used and get both, that's what I did. The DR on jeep roads is fun, the heavier bike with the less sophisticated suspension turns these roads into fun challenges. The KTM is bored there. Depends who I'm riding with also. I have some friends that don't want to ride the tougher stuff and the DR is perfect for that type of terrain. The KTM isn't fun on tar or graded roads, but the DR is.

They really aren't the same, so comparing them isn't valid. If you can only have one bike, you have to decide what you are going to be doing with it.

Dualsport means compromise.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:02 AM   #65889
fizzerfz1
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Woosta county, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
I bought this from Harbor Freight, $22 less 20% coupon plus 8.5% tax. I haven't had to use it yet, however a friend used it on his KLR's rear tire that he usually has trouble dismounting and said it worked perfectly and easily. Motorcycle tire is oriented in device differently than the wheelbarrow-size tire, of course. Much easier than the C-clamp method, at least for me.

Sorry for the huge pic, linked to the pic at the website.

Lex


I would highly recommend this for home use. Here's my tire changing story.

This would be the second time I am changing my tires. So just a novice. A few weeks ago I changed the front tire for the first time and it was not too hard. I just pinched the first tube I put in and the second one was good to go. The front tire was far easier and the bead broke just with me stepping on the tires.

Now, from the past two weeks (I get only a couple hours a week to work on my bikes), I have been trying all the methods to get the freaking bead to break on the rear tire.

1. I tried the kick stand method
2. I tried the 2X4 method
3. I tried the 3 irons method as shown in the ER70S's post.
4. I tried the C-clamp method
5. I tried screaming, swearing, yelling, staring and jumping on the tires.

NOTHING WORKED.

To be fair my tire, the trailwings, has been on my bike from new for about 8000+ miles and for about 5 years without a single flat. Never had to change a tube or fix a flat on the road/trails.

Went to Harbor freight and then bought this http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ker-98875.html. It was about $20+ used the 20% coupon and got it for less than $18+ tax.

Brought it home, took less than two minutes to set it up and less than 30 seconds to break the bead. Really I am not exaggerating. (It took another hour of point #5 above to get the tire out of the rim though). Not sure if my previous steps made the HF bead breaker to break the bead easily.

Strongly recommended to unseasoned tire changers (like me). Spend this 20 bucks. Definitely worth it.

Maybe not the best tool too carry around, but saves a lot of time and frustration when changing tires at home.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #65890
Olas
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Englewood, CO
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So I installed the FCR last night and I've put up my stock carb that has some goodies (hand choke, extended fuel screw, filter) installed for sale here if anyone is interested:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=799845
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:09 PM   #65891
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinfever View Post
Any insight on the motions to get this method to work? I've tried and tried in my garage to pop a bead with just irons, but can't do it. I always end up using my Harbor Freight bead breaker. Luckily I've never had a flat on the road. The pic helps, but it doesn't show me the actual motion of how the irons work together.
Hold 1 down with knee, hold 2 level-ish (feeling for where you get the most force), push down on 3. This will push the right end of 2 down, breaking the bead (eventually ). Using 2 keeps 3 from just pressing into the tire. Make sure all three irons are pushed all the way in, where the leverage is highest. It isn't fun, it isn't easy and flats suck.

The use of liquid between the tire and rim helps, wet rubber is slippery: Duh The more you work the irons, the more water gets between the tire and rim, just a little bit at a time.

I've had several flats over the years (mine and other's bikes). I've been lucky prepared and had the necessary tools to get us back on the trail. I always change my own tires, just so I'm ready when it happens away from home. I only use the tools I carry on the bike, no shop tools............................usually.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:11 PM   #65892
Ride-til-sore!
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Minn-sota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinfever View Post
Any insight on the motions to get this method to work? I've tried and tried in my garage to pop a bead with just irons, but can't do it. I always end up using my Harbor Freight bead breaker. Luckily I've never had a flat on the road. The pic helps, but it doesn't show me the actual motion of how the irons work together.
I just stepped around the tire close to the rim and it popped right off? Also, if you hook your bars on the hooked end and lift back towards the rim instead of just prying down it may pop better as well. Good luck!
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:58 PM   #65893
Bob808
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Is there any way in which I could plain text download this whole thread to put it in a single document? Would make searching very useful :) Maybe some software that you know of. It could be for any OS, windows macosx or linux, as long as it gets the job done. As well it would be great if someone kept a link for such a document and update it on a weekly basis.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:14 PM   #65894
Thunderhart8
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Location: Jackson, MS
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Has anyone upgraded to the 790 engine modification?? It looks really intriguing on the procycle website.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:18 PM   #65895
Rob_NJ
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1992 dr650

Looking at a used 1992 DR650 - +/-20,000 miles - rebuild top end by professional (auto) mechanic and was checked out by a local Suzuki shop afterward. Looks good for its age needs a few bits, left hand mirror, new flasher for LED's or possibly new switch, figure under $100 to get it road worthy. Wondering what you all think is a fair price and what to look for?

Thanks for your input
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