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Old 06-15-2012, 04:22 AM   #65881
kezzajohnson
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right right bloody well right

Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
I can't argue against the rare 3rd gear blow-ups and there's certainly no arguing the loose NSU screws that need to be loc-tite in place but...I've noticed something on this thread that I think is creating a "DR650 weakness" where there isn't one. (2 actually).

I always took the time to adjust my chain by running it through it's full range of motion and making sure there were no tight spots. I did this with BOTH chain rollers intact.
Yes! The chain then looked entirely too loose (and certainly had more sag than the DR650 service manual suggests) but, I never had a chain jump and not only was my chain/sprocket life very long lived but, I also NEVER had either of the 2 "DR650 weakness's" rear their ugly little heads either. (in over 100,000 miles accumulated miles with the 3 DR's I've owned)

1. I never had a chain roller break or even bend their mounting bolts.(certainly no ripped out frame mounts)
2. I never had any issues with rear wheel bearings either (or even the countershaft seal leaking or popping loose)

....in all seriousness Guys, Running your chain too tight can be the cause of both problems. (3 if you include countershaft seals)
I honestly think both of those other common weakness's, are being created through improper chain adjustments.

It kills me to think something so obvious can elude soooo many riders.
Might I suggest loosening those chains and letting the stock rollers and rear chain guides do their jobs, instead of blaming Suzuki for a bad design?
I.M.H.O. About all they can be blamed for (for #1 and#2) is bad specs for chain adjustments in their manuals that lead to some of those failures.
F.W.I.W. I'm also NOT a lucky Guy and I weigh over 230lbs. so, I certainly ran all of my DR's suspensions through their full range of motion in use as well. (quite frequently bottomed them out as well)


Dare I say it = some of you don't know how to properly adjust a chain.

Flame away! (I'm NOT going to post any responses to this observation as I feel 100,000 miles of trouble free use is proof enough that I'm correct in what I've concluded)

Well said and I can't agree with you more. Forget the manual and go with common sense.
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:05 AM   #65882
Rusty Rocket
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What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:24 AM   #65883
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there ant street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
I may have missed it, but everyone who I have seen try to do a streetbike wheel conversion on the DR650 has had to do quite a bit of fabrication.

If someone came out with a hardware conversion kit for a couple different types of readily available streetbike tires, they could probably make a good chunk of change. I guess the liability of such a conversion would be pretty high though for the seller.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:16 AM   #65884
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Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.






Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post


Ignition Key Switch





I used this one on Procycles site. Worked with the HDB set up.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:46 AM   #65885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again for the info. Can you conifrm that this switch only has the single rail on the side? I am looking at this switch mount. I've seen some switches with two of them...just want to make sure I order up the correct one.


Yep. Drops right in. One guide tab/rail that holds it in place and keeps it from spinning, and a couple HD tabs that snap it into the bracket. Works great. Also, the keys look like the ones in your photo, not the monstrosities in the one I posted.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:53 AM   #65886
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What other options are there for front wheels? I mean any straight bolt ons like maybe a DR350? Do the early DR's (pre 96) fit?

Are there any street bike wheels that are close? I don't want to get into a bunch of fabrication. Would kind of like a 19" or 17", but a 21" with Trailwings will do for street riding. Just want to stop changing tires so often. Thanks
i have a dr650 hub, and spokes/21" rim from an rm suzuki that will lace right up, if you want a 2nd wheel. these are in good shape; simple leftover parts from when i went w/an rm front end swap on my dr650. i had to use the rm's hub to lace up the wheel/spokes that were on my dr, so lacing up the rm's wheel to the dr hub will not be an issue.

the rm's rim is ~6mm narrower than the dr's; but they both take the same size rubber. i'd use the rm rim for off-road and the dr rim for street riding. feel free to pm me if interested...

doug s.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:47 AM   #65887
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Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.

I'm glad you've done this before...you're an excellent resource at the moment!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
Yep. Drops right in. One guide tab/rail that holds it in place and keeps it from spinning, and a couple HD tabs that snap it into the bracket. Works great. Also, the keys look like the ones in your photo, not the monstrosities in the one I posted.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:03 AM   #65888
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.

I'm glad you've done this before...you're an excellent resource at the moment!
You only use 2 of the 4 wires. Here is a tutorial type post that thumpididump did on his own webpage.

http://motorcycle-junkie.blogspot.com/2011/02/one-item-to-be-sorted-with-rmz-fork.html

Hopefully this helps clear it up for you. If not or you have other questions, I'd be happy to assist.

Much thanks to Thumpididump for his work on his website. I know I've used it a few times for more than just good reading.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:06 AM   #65889
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Thanks again! Is this a four-wire switch? I believe the stock switch is six-wire, correct? I'd be interested to know how you wired it. Also, will I need to add the resistor? I am unsure of it's function in this circuit, but have read it is needed when you eliminate the switch for a button.
Here's how two others removed their switches.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=25
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:35 AM   #65890
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Here's how two others removed their switches.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=25
Just so we're clear, I am not dumping the key switch for a button, I am just replacing it. Most likely with the option from Procycle.

http://www.procycle.us/dskits/dskit.htm#a059168

I believe the stock switch is a six-wire switch and the replacement is four. I am confident I can figure out what to do with what, but just curious how others have wired theirs.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:57 AM   #65891
MADurstewitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post
Has anyone upgraded to the 790 engine modification?? It looks really intriguing on the procycle website.
Yeah. Did it over the winter while I was in there replacing bearings. Bought the oversize valves and installed as well. Bike goes like hell. Lots of nice even smooth power. Gas mileage about the same as before. I really like the peace of mind that my cylinder now has a steel sleeve in it. I don't care how you clad aluminum. It's still a lousy material for cylinders.

It wasn't at all difficult.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:59 AM   #65892
ADVwanaB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADurstewitz View Post
Yeah. Did it over the winter while I was in there replacing bearings. Bought the oversize valves and installed as well. Bike goes like hell. Lots of nice even smooth power. Gas mileage about the same as before. I really like the peace of mind that my cylinder now has a steel sleeve in it. I don't care how you clad aluminum. It's still a lousy material for cylinders.

It wasn't at all difficult.
How is the engine vibration at speed?
is there a noticable vibration difference?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:13 AM   #65893
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADurstewitz View Post
Yeah. Did it over the winter while I was in there replacing bearings. Bought the oversize valves and installed as well. Bike goes like hell. Lots of nice even smooth power. Gas mileage about the same as before. I really like the peace of mind that my cylinder now has a steel sleeve in it. I don't care how you clad aluminum. It's still a lousy material for cylinders.

It wasn't at all difficult.
one of the reasons i do not like this kit is because the cylinders are NOT aluminum. i would much prefer nicasil coated aluminum cylinders than steel-sleeved cylinders. better wear, better heat transfer, more even expansion w/pistons, so you can have tighter tolerances. unfortunately, due to size issues, a completely new cylinder would have to be manufactured, and i guess there is not enough of a market for a big-enough production run. some day, i will have over-sized pistons/cylinders installed in my buell, and you can be sure i will be going w/aluminum cylinders. they are simply better in almost all applications...

ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:57 AM   #65894
Go Irish75
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Cool2 New dash and rack

Just installed an HDB (http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/) top clamp. I got the SXdx version, so it included holes for 2 switches and owner Paul added a 12v Powerlet hole. I currently only have need for one switch (auxiliary driving light), but it's nice to have the space for another. It came with all the mounting hardware and the guys at HDB are great. I received it on Thursday, but it turned out to be the wrong clamp was sent by mistake. I contacted Paul at HDB and told him about it, and that I was in need due to going on a trip this weekend and the bike was torn down and wiring was waiting for the products. He was awesome. He overnighted me the correct clamp and offered to reimburse me for shipping his other one back. I got the correct part early this morning, and to my surprise Paul included a free HDB t shirt! Free swag is always good. I added a Marlin Manfacturing motorcycle clock (http://www.marlins-motorcycles.com/) (water and vibe resistant), and completed the wiring on the switches and Powerlet. All buttoned up and here's the final product:


Free swag


Oh, and added a Pat Walsh rear rack. But didn't think of taking a photo until after I put my tail bag back on:
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:53 PM   #65895
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have had great results on the front with a Bridgestone ED-03

I also put a rimlock in the rear wheel and run Kenda TrakMaster II's at 15-16 psi.
Thanks, the ED-03 looks promising!

Can't use rimlocks on mine since I've converted my wheels to tubeless. But then again I can run low pressures without fear of pinch flats or the tyre rotating on the wheel.
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