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Old 06-18-2012, 11:43 AM   #66046
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I just took this guy for a ride around the block on the back of my DR650. I weigh 135lbs and he weighed 250, so the combined weight was 385lbs. Is it possible that that kind of weight could have caused some damage to the bike? We went for about half a mile, I was super easy on the throttle, and we only got up to to 30mph.
Yer good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Other questions:
-Before I go for a ride I let the bike idle for 5 - 7 minutes. Is that too much?
-What are some things that can cause damage to the engine? I change the oil every 2000 miles, keep the air filter clean, oil the chain often, and the tires are set to the right pressures. The guy I bought it from said there's not much you can do do ruin a dr650, but I'm just paranoid about keeping my bike in top condition. (this is my first bike, I love it, and I'd like to keep it for as long as possible)
I don't let any of my vehicles warm up; get on, start bike, wiggle helmet, poke garage door button, ride gently. There are other things needing warm-up: wheel bearings, suspension, transmission and the rider for instance. Regular oil and filter changes = good. Get a magnetic drain plug for long term preventative maintenance and don't freak out when there is a Q-Tip of metal filings on it at each oil change. Do freak out if there is a screw or gear tooth.

Keep up with current posts on this thread first, if you want more info go back 100 pages and read thru current, then back another 100 pages etc.

NordieBoy's pic:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Thank you for this response...

On Saturday I rode my friends stock DR650 and couldn't believe how stable it is with the 21" wheel, but a lot harder to turn. This lead me to realize my bike is fine...................

........................So its just a tradeoff. I guess this is why a lot of people are going to 19" front wheels, good compromise.
I think you'll get used to the twitchiness, just like we get used to the wiggle on dirt roads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I would like to ask about road handling when wheel/tire diameter is changed.
.....................................
edit: Wow, while I was typing NC Rick was kind of addressing this very issue.
Good info Rusty, glad you left it posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
.................................................
Awesome info and a giant leap for mankind the DR community.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:06 PM   #66047
doug s.
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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
You've linked to unbranded Chinese snot for a DR-Z...

An EBC kit for a DR-Z is similar money and for a DR slightly more.

China is notorious for shoving shit out the back door and getting away with it. Why risk it especially on something as critical as brake components? With a US (or western) brand, even if manufactured in China, there is a reasonable guarantee that what you are purchasing is what the manufacturer claims. Consumer protections and product liability makes certain of that.
i linked to "unbranded snot" for an rm-series, which is what i would need, and what anyone else w/rm front forks on their dr's would need. (yes, it indicates it will also fit a dr-z.)

regarding "shoving shit out the back door and getting away with it", i understand your feelings. but i believe it is more because of "western" companies that rebrand the stuff and mark it up, then the folks that sell direct. ymmv. are you into audio, by any chance? that's another one of my weaknesses. i bought a korsun integrated amp; it retailed for ~$250-$300. would i have been better off if i bought the red rose music iteration for $2500? this american company, red rose music, owned by mark levinson, one of the pre-eminent names in high end audio, sold the exact same amp as the the one i have, for almost 10 times the price, and the only difference between the two is the label silkscreened on the front! my amp says "korsun", the other amp says "red rose music". red rose music has done the same thing w/the chinese aurum cantus speaker brand.

find me another rotor spec'd at 5mm thick, instead of 4.0mm or 4.5mm, that will work w/the stock caliper, and i will have a look. the item i posted was the only 5mm thick 320mm diameter rotor i was able to find, to fit an rm-series suzuki, regardless of what label was stamped on it. i checked the uk-made ebc rotors; they're 4mm thick...

don't like chinese "shit"? cut out all chinese products from your life, and see how long you can surwive. let me know how it works out for ya. but, remember - you won't be able to call me, or text me, or send me an email. won't even be able to send me a regular letter.

doug s.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:32 PM   #66048
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I find droning on the highway boring if it is a multilane commuter conduit. So, I bought a cheap Harbor Freight folding trailer with a 4'x8' deck (used) for a couple hundred and I load the bikes on it and cruise comfortably in the car out to the fun areas
The roads to the trails are actually single-lane, but they are straight as an arrow, so they are not only boring, but intimidating too, because in the back of my mind I always have this fear of an idiot from the opposite direction crossing over into my lane. In that respect, it's better to take the interstate, but if that's the best solution for a DS bike...

I had been doing the trailer thing for more than 10 years, and it got old. That's one of the reasons I got the DR, I thought that riding to the trails would be more exciting than driving my dirt bike there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I believe you said you have Shinko 705's so play with the air pressure and see if it helps. You didn't mention if the suspension is stock or upgraded but there are some easy and inexpensive improvements that can help a lot, without going to the extremes. Just about any work will make the suspension better than it is stock.
Yes, brand new 705s, and yes, one of my mistakes was that I didn't air them down for the off-road portion. I will certainly do that next time to see how they behave in optimal conditions.

Suspension is another headache: it is stock, but because of my light weight (130lbs), I cannot achieve adequate sag in the forks even though I have installed the minimum length of preload spacers. Yet it was the rear shock (with proper sag) that was giving me the most trouble, with the wheel unable to follow the bumps, and spending most of its time in the air. I had thought of installing emulators in the forks, but it now appears that the shock is my primary concern -- and shock work is not cheap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
If you can, beg to ride other big bore ds bikes and see what you think after you have more experience riding the various bikes.
I consider them all far too heavy. And the recent crop of new "adventure" bikes outweigh the DR by 100 or more pounds. I think the adventure is picking it up when you drop it.
Ha!! I have been saying the exact same thing ever since the first adventure behemoths (the BMWs, capitalising on their Paris-Dakar success) came to the scene almost 30 years ago.

I completely agree -- all the other adventure bikes are just way too heavy. That was one selling point of the DR: it is one of the lightest adventure bikes out there, but still too heavy for actual enjoyment in the dirt.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:59 PM   #66049
Rusty Rocket
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here's an interesting item:

https://kushsprockets.3dcartstores.c...cket_p_67.html

it fits a DR350, so it will also work with a DR650 if you want to run a 520 chain. Probably unnecessary on a stock hub. The real cool thing here is that you can now use a DR350 rear wheel that hasn't got a cush drive. (the off road models)
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #66050
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
I had a KTM 450exc and it was GREAT off road, but I hated hitting the highway for a stretch on it.
What was it exactly that made you hate the KTM more than the DR on the slab? I'm not really enjoying the DR on highway rides as it is (too much wind pressure, high sensitivity to cross-winds), so I'm thinking how much worse can a EXC be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Then I tried a lighter weight dual sport and it was better off road than my DR650, but not fun on the highway. I would trailer it the 2-3 hours to the base camp for a DS ride and it was fine for riding 150-200 mile dual sport rides.
Was this the DR350 in your signature? I'm thinking about the WR250R, but concerned about the small displacement.

Thanks for the insight, greatly appreciate it!
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:12 PM   #66051
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
What was it exactly that made you hate the KTM more than the DR on the slab? I'm not really enjoying the DR on highway rides as it is (too much wind pressure, high sensitivity to cross-winds), so I'm thinking how much worse can a EXC be?


Was this the DR350 in your signature? I'm thinking about the WR250R, but concerned about the small displacement.

Thanks for the insight, greatly appreciate it!
I would rather not ride pavement with my EXC because it vibrates more and has to be revved more to get the MPH you need. (if you have woods gearing, i have 13/52) The rubber mounted handlebars and footrests combined with lower RPM's and much higher torque of the 650 mill(my seat of the pants assesment vs the 400exc)make the DR a much nicer bike on the slab when you have to run more than 5 miles.

I rode a WR250R and liked the handling, but the power was anemic. I was glad when I switched back with the owner to get back on the DR.

The exc isn't bad on the street, it just isn't as good as the DR. The DR isn't bad in the singletrack, it just isn't anywhere as good as the KTM.

If you can only get 1 bike and you like to ride technical singletrack mostly, and will not be riding the street for miles, you'll probably be happier with an EXC.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers

Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 06-18-2012 at 03:17 PM
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:37 PM   #66052
ghostdncr
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Hey guys, I just picked up an '07 DR last week and thought I'd say hey.

Hey!

I'd never so much as thrown a leg over one of these bikes before, but got the chance to trade for one a couple of states away and jumped on it. Took it on a 362 mile ride this past Saturday and have fallen completely in love with it! Seems to fit my needs almost perfectly. I've got a ride report with bunches of pics posted over here, if you'd like to take a look: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=799767

I rode a mixed bag of highway, gravel, and mud and the DR handled all conditions like a champ.
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:41 PM   #66053
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I just took this guy for a ride around the block on the back of my DR650. I weigh 135lbs and he weighed 250, so the combined weight was 385lbs. Is it possible that that kind of weight could have caused some damage to the bike? We went for about half a mile, I was super easy on the throttle, and we only got up to to 30mph.

Other questions:
-Before I go for a ride I let the bike idle for 5 - 7 minutes. Is that too much?
-What are some things that can cause damage to the engine? I change the oil every 2000 miles, keep the air filter clean, oil the chain often, and the tires are set to the right pressures. The guy I bought it from said there's not much you can do do ruin a dr650, but I'm just paranoid about keeping my bike in top condition. (this is my first bike, I love it, and I'd like to keep it for as long as possible)
Ride with stock suspension and that much weight and you'll keep bottoming the rear shock. Keep doing this, and the bump rubber can be destroyed and before that it can also cause the seal head to be impacted into the shock body and 'bell' the body, effectively destroying the shock. Gently for 5 mins around the corner, no worries.

A large and disproportionate amount of engine wear occurs when it is operating cold. Engines warm up quicker when they are doing some work, so in my view extended idling of a cold engine is bad. Start and ride as soon as it'll take throttle, but gently until warm, which for the DR could be up to 10-15 kms. I learnt all about this many years ago with my early Mazda rotaries where this was crucial to maxing engine life. I got up to 200,000 kms from a 10A by not idling it cold, but driving and keeping the revs down for 15-20 kms, then flogging it mercilessly. Many struggled to get a tenth of that life.

Fix the NSU screws and it'll all be good.

Steve
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:50 PM   #66054
BergDonk
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Engine Cooling

I note a few posts a few days ago referring to various cooling systems. As far as I know, all engines are air cooled. What varies, is the mediums, and proportions of same that is used to transfer the waste heat to the air. All engines move heat around internally with oil and air, some with water/coolant. All engines lose heat externally through their engine blocks to air. Some engines transfer heat to a liquid and then to air via a radiator. They can also use the liquid to move heat around the block. Sometimes the liquid is oil, and sometimes its also a water based one, and sometimes both.

All engines are air cooled, they just sometimes get the heat into the air via different mechanisms

Steve
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:54 PM   #66055
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Found some cracking on my fmf q4 pipe where that tab mounts to the frame. Is that common or am i unlucky?

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Old 06-18-2012, 05:25 PM   #66056
TRAVELGUY
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Glad someone finally brought that to everyones attention.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I note a few posts a few days ago referring to various cooling systems. As far as I know, all engines are air cooled. What varies, is the mediums, and proportions of same that is used to transfer the waste heat to the air. All engines move heat around internally with oil and air, some with water/coolant. All engines lose heat externally through their engine blocks to air. Some engines transfer heat to a liquid and then to air via a radiator. They can also use the liquid to move heat around the block. Sometimes the liquid is oil, and sometimes its also a water based one, and sometimes both.

All engines are air cooled, they just sometimes get the heat into the air via different mechanisms

Steve
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:41 PM   #66057
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Glad someone finally brought that to everyones attention.

TravelGuy

Of course engines are air-cooled. Except maybe marine engines or outer space rocket engines...

But, it's easier to distinguish what we are talking about by saying air vs oil-cooled rather than (air cooled via liquid coolant which transfers heat from the engine to the air via a radiator VS an air cooled engine that transfers heat directly to the air via heat sink fins directly on the engine....
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:56 PM   #66058
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I note a few posts a few days ago referring to various cooling systems....

Steve
You know by saying water 'based it will start again.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:02 PM   #66059
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Of course engines are air-cooled. Except maybe marine engines or outer space rocket engines...

But, it's easier to distinguish what we are talking about by saying air vs oil-cooled rather than (air cooled via liquid coolant which transfers heat from the engine to the air via a radiator VS an air cooled engine that transfers heat directly to the air via heat sink fins directly on the engine....
Feelers is correct- NOT all engines are what you would call air cooled. Marine engines pull water from the lake/ocean and run that water through a heat exchanger or directly through the eninge. No air involved.

Also, some drag race engines have no cooling at all. They don't run long enough to need cooled.

Try again....
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:07 PM   #66060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Feelers is correct- NOT all engines are what you would call air cooled. Marine engines pull water from the lake/ocean and run that water through a heat exchanger or directly through the eninge. No air involved.

Try again....
And then the warmed water rises to the surface and releases its excess heat to the atmosphere.....

And you mean to say that they are cold to touch in the engine bay? No heat given off from the exhaust, block, head, etc?

And there is air inside the engine which moves heat around internally, along with oil.

I guess a rocket in space works differently, dunno about that.

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