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Old 06-18-2012, 05:46 PM   #66046
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
And then the warmed water rises to the surface and releases its excess heat to the atmosphere.....
That is like saying the sun heats the air inside your car therefore it has a solar powered heater.
Doesn't it?

And fossil fuels are the result of photosynthesis which is a process driven by the sun as I recall...

And all this heat being put into the air is of course contributing to global warming......

Back to work
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:55 PM   #66047
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
As far as I know, all engines are air cooled. What varies, is the mediums, and proportions of same that is used to transfer the waste heat to the air.

Not sure if you mean all motorcycle engines or all engines. Right off the top of my head, some boat engines are water cooled with heat transfer systems and cooled by the water they are operated in and most snowmobiles are snow (water) cooled by snow being thrown onto the heat exchangers by the track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
And then the warmed water rises to the surface and releases its excess heat to the atmosphere.....
not if the atmosphere is warmer than the water. heat only flows from the hot side to the cold side. At least that's what is says in the textbooks.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 06-18-2012 at 06:01 PM
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:08 PM   #66048
Taikimoto
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Need some quick tire suggestions to look at.

I will mainly use it as a commuter with maybe 1 day a week doing fire road excursions.

So Im thinking some type of 80/20 or maybe even a 90/10? Stock wheels. I have Kenda K270 50/50's on another bike and like them, but want something a bit more road worthy on the DR.

I local shop guy suggested the tires that come on the new KLR 650's as they are the same size, and even mentioned the stock trailwings might be ok for what I want (I have full DOT knobbies on now and they arent very good on the pavement).
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:12 PM   #66049
AST236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
Need some quick tire suggestions to look at.

I will mainly use it as a commuter with maybe 1 day a week doing fire road excursions.

So Im thinking some type of 80/20 or maybe even a 90/10? Stock wheels. I have Kenda K270 50/50's on another bike and like them, but want something a bit more road worthy on the DR.

I local shop guy suggested the tires that come on the new KLR 650's as they are the same size, and even mentioned the stock trailwings might be ok for what I want (I have full DOT knobbies on now and they arent very good on the pavement).


I'm running Michelin Anakee 2's on my DR and have also had good success w/ Pirelli Scorpions. Great tires for what you are describing.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:12 PM   #66050
TBKahuna
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While we're discussing the vagaries of cooling systems could someone please explain what happened to the dinosaurs ......yea, I've been drinking heavily,,,again
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:44 PM   #66051
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
The motor on the 400 works a bit harder to go 60 compared to my DR.
Hmm, weird, the EXC has as wide a ratio transmission as the DR, so theoretically speaking it should be as unstressed as the DR during highway cruising. Maybe it just feels/sounds stressed but is not in real life? I once rode a YZ250F and every time I thought I had redlined, I discovered there was another 2k to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yes, the 400. I have put an Enduro Engineering "tall soft" seat on it to make it more friendly.
All I'm doing to the DR for this 500+ mile (each way) ride is putting on the seat and different tires. I would never consider this ride on the KTM.
So a combination of higher RPMs, more vibration, less comfort, create a package that is not very inviting to ride extensively on the slab?

Funny thing is that I prefer the stock saddle on my KTM200 to the one on the DR; I find the stock one on the DR to be too wide, although I still have no problem spending 8+ hours on it.

I understand what you're saying about matching the spectrum of individual use for a bike to the spectrum of technical prowess of said bike. My intended use of 90/10 seemed to match the relative capabilities of the DR, but the assumption was that this 10% dirt would be at least acceptable in performance. Right now it is not, so I'm willing to sacrifice some asphalt capabilities for happier times in the dirt.

Thanks for the insight!
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:46 PM   #66052
N.dica
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RE: RM250 forks

It continues to astonish me how completely awesome you all are for such in depth responses! Thank you thank you thank you. I love this thread and all you DR enthusiasts out there. You guys are the scheiza. My gratitude is massive.

That said- Snowy Im a bit perplexed- my 98 showas are USD- I had thought they were only USD for that year RM.

At any rate, I think a call to Racetech is in order. Regardless, while I was still living in Colorado I riipped through some big rock scrabble and used a substantial amount of travel and was satisfied at how well they performed, even if i could do for some beefier springs/oil.

For my headlights I ended up going to a local welders supply and getting some 3/4 inch steel tubing and affixed it to each end of my Cycra guards which were attached to my handlebars. This not only gave me a solid platform to mount the headlights, but it also allows me more space to mount a gps and hopefully soon, a small wind fairing.

For the ignition switch, im finally dumping my 20 pound OEM ignition switch for the procycle tiny lightweight one. Hopefully that will arrive with my repaired TM40 and the X40F0X I found on fleabay. I wonder How much I could get for my year-old Q4 can at redsale..This Friday's paycheck will bring me the 790, and I am so stoked to have all this done I am jumping up and down.

Ill consider the front brake options, and I still need a DR350 rear wheel...can't find a decent one anywhere....Maybe Ill just buy the spokes and rim separately and mount my 650 hub. etc. Might be the only option.....at least that way I can get a black anodized rim..

AH- the welders supply company has a scale they agreed to let me use to weigh my pig. Im curious what her numbers are.


Also I am still getting rid of my BST40 with jetting kit, OEM tank, Front wheel with new bearings, Saddle pan, luggage rack and rear shock if anyone is looking.

Cheers and thanks again-- Really- you all are fantastic
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:10 PM   #66053
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
There's plenty of Chinese made stuff in my life... I'm just not buying the rejects direct from eBay.
cool, buy the rejects from a company that relabels the stuff, then. it's your choice, certainly. me, personally, i have had good results skipping unnecessary middlemen...

ymmv,

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Old 06-18-2012, 07:14 PM   #66054
tomordr
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isn't there one misfit who can answer my TM40 question from back on page 4419 or 4219 or whatever?
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:24 PM   #66055
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomordr View Post
isn't there one misfit who can answer my TM40 question from back on page 4419 or 4219 or whatever?

Procyle answered your question I thought.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:26 PM   #66056
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomordr View Post
isn't there one misfit who can answer my TM40 question from back on page 4419 or 4219 or whatever?
Procycle answered one of your questions. Post #66274.

Secondly, you are running too rich. I don't know the TM-40 specs, but you are going to need to downsize the main jet, or lower the needle. The AP might need an adjustment also.

I'm not a misfit.

around here anyway!
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:31 PM   #66057
doug s.
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Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
... Im a bit perplexed- my 98 showas are USD- I had thought they were only USD for that year RM.

At any rate, I think a call to Racetech is in order. Regardless, while I was still living in Colorado I riipped through some big rock scrabble and used a substantial amount of travel and was satisfied at how well they performed, even if i could do for some beefier springs/oil....
a-HA! that may be the issue. and mebbe it will work out in your favor - i thought all the '98 rm250's were NOT usd. so, checking the parts fiche, there were 5 separate rm250 models, 3 had non-usd forks, two had usd; check the t/v/w/x/y front dampers:

http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/pag...FYpM4Aod5h241A

i bet the race tech specs shown on their site are for the non-usd forks; maybe there are more options for the usd models. but, i'd certainly confirm w/any seller exactly what it is that's on your bike before ordering...

doug s,
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:44 PM   #66058
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
Need some quick tire suggestions to look at.

I will mainly use it as a commuter with maybe 1 day a week doing fire road excursions.

So Im thinking some type of 80/20 or maybe even a 90/10? Stock wheels. I have Kenda K270 50/50's on another bike and like them, but want something a bit more road worthy on the DR.

I local shop guy suggested the tires that come on the new KLR 650's as they are the same size, and even mentioned the stock trailwings might be ok for what I want (I have full DOT knobbies on now and they arent very good on the pavement).
Shinko 705's.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:56 PM   #66059
Snowy
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It depends on where in the world you are as to what model years are what.

These conventional forks were the very last of the conventional dual chamber forks used on the RMs.

The eBay seller didn't know what they were for, he'd bought them for a DR650 but they presented him with insurmountable problems.

I picked them up for something like $170.

The local suspension guy was duly impressed when I showed him, said they were unbelievably good condition and told me they were a 98 RM fork. I noticed when Googling for the same thing I can't find conventional front ends, only USD.. I can find similar to these up to a 97 from the US.

It's entirely likely we still had conventional front ends on RMs sold here as 98 models. If I remember correctly, I've seen pics of Chad Reed racing here during and just after that era on conventional forks on an RM.

I wanted a conventional front end to maintain the "standard DR" look, but get better suspension out of it.

In the RMZ series, the forks were pretty consistent in their head set bearing sizes, and a match for the DR bearings until around 05~06 in the 250s. I had to use DR lower and the RMZ upper bearing and make a spacer for packing under the top clamp on an 06 set. 07 (dual chamber) onwards in the 250 were one for one swap out bearing wise. the 450s went to the different front end in 05, and use a slightly larger axle. The 250s followed, using all the same components as the 450s from 07.

So there's a period of a couple of years where the 250s remained with the old gear, and the 450s got updates, then the 250s followed. Same basic suspension. In fact, I think spring rates - standard at least - are the same because the bikes didn't really weigh much different. The 450s tended to hit harder because they launched faster, so they upped the rates for super cross and arena cros, but I'm not sure how they were setting them up for the outdoor events in the US, given they are more open faster tracks and the 250s are generally doing the same sort of jumps. I bought a set of single chamber 06 forks and they came revalved for racing for someone about my weight (220lbs) and they had .48kg/mm springs in them. I went to .50kg/mm and they are about perfect for fast trail riding with the DRs weight. Clickers are set about 1/2 of the way up from full soft. You can experiment with oil levels and viscosities, as they are not fixed. If you want more damping towards bottom out, you decrease the air gap in the fork by adding more oil. Mine are at around 90mm from the top of the fork, fully compressed, springs out running 5wt oil. I can try 7.5wt to get more high speed compression damping out of them, and just wind the clickers off soft to get similar low speed. Increase the air gap with heavier grade oil to 100~110mm.

So much adjustability your head will spin.

You can get caught out with eBay as some of the sellers aren't exactly sure what's what. I ask for measurements of axle sizes etc to confirm.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:00 PM   #66060
Snowy
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Doug S...good find.

It's hard to get that info here. Unless you work for Suzuki or a dealer. Knowing what web sites in the US display the micro-fiche info helps.

Just remember, static sag will be your biggest isue in setingup the front end.

When you go for heavier spring rates you don't really want the same length of spring that a standard RM uses, you want it shorter. If you end up with a very stiff front spring and too little static sag, it'll slow the steering right down. Rake will look like one of those early 80s Dakar bikes. OK if you plan doing a couple of thousand kms on sand...and actually not too bad for highway work, but a bit slow for trail riding.

Once again, it comes back to what you want to do with the bike. The Racetech rear sprung hard and set with minimum static and rider sag helps even things out, but you want to be at least 5'10" tall and confident off road.
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