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Old 06-21-2012, 08:48 AM   #66181
Mutiny!
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Oddometer: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
When you remove the stator cover and starter motor drive don't lose the thrust washers from either side of it. One of mine fell and got caught in the magnet on the flywheel, and when I reassembled without it and started there was a god almighty scraping grinding metal on metal noise. No real damage, just a few flushes and wash outs to remove metal. Hasn't hurt it.

It's a DR. You can't kill them with big rocks and mere shards of metal.
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit? I was keeping a sharp eye out for any dropped bits and pieces, but all I am doing is taking the starter motor out and handing it over to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair.

Worst case scenario is a new starter motor. I'm told the thing costs AUD800 and there are no aftermarket options. At 4,000km on the clock that seems a bit unfair. Does anyone have a lead on a cheaper alternative in Australia, maybe even Perth? Freight will probably make an overseas part too pricey anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Thanks for the link, a handy guide that unfortunately (see below) came too late.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
TDC: the correct TDC (there are two, one isn't the right one). See above for details.
Ahh, I see. Two TDC positions, you say.

So, given that I have already ripped the thing off and now have only a 50/50 chance of having picked the correct TDC, am I quite possibly f*cked?

The one I picked seemed to have a blue stripe next to the engaved line, if that means anything. How can I tell if it is the correct TDC? What can I do to save the situation if it turns out I picked the wrong one?
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:05 AM   #66182
Rainier_runner
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Yelm, Washington
Oddometer: 285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit? I was keeping a sharp eye out for any dropped bits and pieces, but all I am doing is taking the starter motor out and handing it over to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair.

Worst case scenario is a new starter motor. I'm told the thing costs AUD800 and there are no aftermarket options. At 4,000km on the clock that seems a bit unfair. Does anyone have a lead on a cheaper alternative in Australia, maybe even Perth? Freight will probably make an overseas part too pricey anyway.
This starter rebuild kit is available. Seems like the shipping would be worth it if you could do the work yourself. I've had my starter apart to clean it out and repair the starter squawck noise on cold start up. It's about as simple as it gets. If you can get it out, you can work on it.




Starter Brush Kit

DR650SE '96-'12






$39.95

Replacement brush plate kit fits both original stock or aftermarket starter.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:25 AM   #66183
Bob808
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Also seen on ebay used one but in good condition for 100-200 us$ so if the damage is at the rotating ... thing :) then you can get another one for a fraction of the cost for a new one. And I think I remember seeing aftermarket options as well.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:04 AM   #66184
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post

So, given that I have already ripped the thing off and now have only a 50/50 chance of having picked the correct TDC, am I quite possibly f*cked?

The one I picked seemed to have a blue stripe next to the engaved line, if that means anything. How can I tell if it is the correct TDC? What can I do to save the situation if it turns out I picked the wrong one?
There is only one TDC marker. Say you see it in the window and you are at TDC, You would have to rotate the crank so the marker is in the window, in which case you would be at BDC, and then rotate around again to the window before you would be at TDC again. Basically you will see the marker in the window at TDC AND at BDC.

Maybe I am wrong on this next part, but I think if you remove the CCT and you don't move the bike around at all and the motor doesn't get turned over or anything (IE the cam chain doesn't move at all while the CCT is out of the bike), I think it will be ok to reinstall it regardless of whether you are at TDC or not.

I would like someone else to verify that though. Thats what I did when I removed the CCT because of a leaking gasket. 1000 miles later and no problems. Maybe I just got lucky.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:44 AM   #66185
dljocky
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 853
I ride the interstate only when time restraints make it really the only option. I would much rather take the back roads across the state. Also, I don't feel as if I'm "abusing" the DR on the back roads, but I do when I'm superslabbing it.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
You live in VA and you ride on interstates????? Why????? I'd find that about as entertaining as watching grass grow.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:16 AM   #66186
slowleego
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Oddometer: 5
Broke it

Help! While replacing the front wheel after a tire change, I broke one of the four studs on the axle retainer piece. Called my Suzuki dealer, but they don't list a part for it. Any ideas?

Cheers.....Lee
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:41 AM   #66187
Motodeficient
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Crap, I don't see a part number for it on the fiche either. I know somebody will know what to do, it seems to be a pretty common thing.

Remember those only require 7 ft/lbs of torque, which is not much at all!!
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:08 PM   #66188
opium89
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Location: Hutto, Texas
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Looks to be part of the fork itself. I haven't torn in to mine as yet, but if it's just a stud as it appears to be, you should be able to unscrew it by locking two threaded nuts together, remove it, and replace it with a same sized stud with a little loctite. If you've snapped it down to the base, you might end up having to drill it out. Best wait for a few more replies to confirm.

http://www.bikebandit.com/2000-suzuk...5882#sch240334
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:16 PM   #66189
Motodeficient
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While they don't have their own part number, they are just threaded into the fork.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #66190
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
There is only one TDC marker. Say you see it in the window and you are at TDC, You would have to rotate the crank so the marker is in the window, in which case you would be at BDC, and then rotate around again to the window before you would be at TDC again.
Basically you will see the marker in the window at TDC AND at BDC TDC.
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:24 PM   #66191
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
Bluhduh

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.

Ahh ok! Thanks for clearing that up! Honestly that makes a lot of sense, I am not sure why I would think that there would be a mark for BDC....
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:35 PM   #66192
opium89
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Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
Ladies and Gents, this one has me stumped.

The history:
  • Did the trail tech vapor and indicator dash upgrade
  • Split the harness on the indicators to allow left/right indicators on indicator bar
  • Installed LED's for indicator bar (came with vapor)
The result:


Everything works beautifully - speedo, power to it, tacho, indicator bar, high beam, low beam, neutral etc... BUT


My indicators have issues:
  • Left indicators (front and back) work normally - normal flash rate and all ok
  • Right indicators - front works BUT flashes at double speed, rear DOES NOT work at all!
  • Indicator bar for Right indicators flashes at double speed also
What I have tried to resolve this issue:


1. Checked indicator bulbs - bulb is fine (changed left to right and back etc. right side does not work, left does)


2. Checked voltage on right indicator seat/connector - is pulsing voltage (I think? as it should) at the double rate - hard to tell with Digital multimeter and slow screen response)


3. Swapped the vapor dash indicator bulbs FROM LED back to incandescent bulbs


4. Purchased a new flasher unit ELFR-1 (http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm)


5. With new solid state flasher unit, the right rear indicator still doesn't work, however the front does and it now flashes at normal speed.




I am literally at a loss at this point - not sure what else to do here... has anyone else come across this before?



Any tips/hints/tricks?


Thanks
I can't speak for the Vapor Dash with the LED's built in specifically, but if you're going to use a LED for the indicator, you'll need to understand that the polarity of the LED bulb is a one-way proposition. Normally, the turn signals are wired to ground one side, while power the other side of the bulb in one direction, and the polarity "flips" when the indicator is switched to the other side. You can do this with incandescent bulbs without issue. In the case of a LED however you'lll need two diodes, one on each wire to that goes to the existing bulb and solder these two wires to the + side of the LED (There is a difference!). From there, you'll need to run a separate wire to ground from the - side of the bulb. This way, power is sent to the bulb when the switch is in either the left or right position, and the diode prevents power from flowing back down the other side. Examine the wiring diagram closely and see how the bulb is normally powered with the switch in both the left and right position and you should be able to figure it out.

I hope this makes sense.....
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opium89 screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 12:41 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:45 PM   #66193
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,832
Went for a quick ride today. After adding SeaFoam to my gas to see if I could get rid of the rough running I felt last time out. I put the SeaFoam in the gas and did a short run on Monday to make sure the good stuff was in the carb bowl. Let it stew till today and cleaned the airfilter in between. Long story short, it worked. I don't know if I had a clogged pilot and the SeaFoam helped or if a dirty aircleaner was the culprit but I'm happy.


EXCEPT


It's about 98 degrees here today. When I tapped the front brake, I got a loud click. I checked it out and there is rotational play in the disc. The six bushings that the disc floats on are kinda loose. (I know they should be somewhat loose) I would say I have about 1 degree of rotational play and it clicks or ticks loudly when I tap the front brake. It even did it when all was at ambient temps. Is this because it's almost 100 degrees out or am I noticing something that's been there all along?? Or, worst case, something worn out?
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 01:48 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:29 PM   #66194
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,190
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I ride the interstate only when time restraints make it really the only option. I would much rather take the back roads across the state. Also, I don't feel as if I'm "abusing" the DR on the back roads, but I do when I'm superslabbing it.
I'd feel like I was abusing my sense of fun more then anything.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #66195
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleego View Post
Help! While replacing the front wheel after a tire change, I broke one of the four studs on the axle retainer piece. Called my Suzuki dealer, but they don't list a part for it. Any ideas?

Cheers.....Lee
First thing you need to buy is a damn torque wrench!
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