ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-21-2012, 11:08 AM   #66196
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Looks to be part of the fork itself. I haven't torn in to mine as yet, but if it's just a stud as it appears to be, you should be able to unscrew it by locking two threaded nuts together, remove it, and replace it with a same sized stud with a little loctite. If you've snapped it down to the base, you might end up having to drill it out. Best wait for a few more replies to confirm.

http://www.bikebandit.com/2000-suzuk...5882#sch240334
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 11:16 AM   #66197
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
While they don't have their own part number, they are just threaded into the fork.
Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #66198
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
There is only one TDC marker. Say you see it in the window and you are at TDC, You would have to rotate the crank so the marker is in the window, in which case you would be at BDC, and then rotate around again to the window before you would be at TDC again.
Basically you will see the marker in the window at TDC AND at BDC TDC.
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.
__________________
2004 DR650: 61,105 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 11:24 AM   #66199
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
Bluhduh

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.

Ahh ok! Thanks for clearing that up! Honestly that makes a lot of sense, I am not sure why I would think that there would be a mark for BDC....
Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #66200
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
Ladies and Gents, this one has me stumped.

The history:
  • Did the trail tech vapor and indicator dash upgrade
  • Split the harness on the indicators to allow left/right indicators on indicator bar
  • Installed LED's for indicator bar (came with vapor)
The result:


Everything works beautifully - speedo, power to it, tacho, indicator bar, high beam, low beam, neutral etc... BUT


My indicators have issues:
  • Left indicators (front and back) work normally - normal flash rate and all ok
  • Right indicators - front works BUT flashes at double speed, rear DOES NOT work at all!
  • Indicator bar for Right indicators flashes at double speed also
What I have tried to resolve this issue:


1. Checked indicator bulbs - bulb is fine (changed left to right and back etc. right side does not work, left does)


2. Checked voltage on right indicator seat/connector - is pulsing voltage (I think? as it should) at the double rate - hard to tell with Digital multimeter and slow screen response)


3. Swapped the vapor dash indicator bulbs FROM LED back to incandescent bulbs


4. Purchased a new flasher unit ELFR-1 (http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm)


5. With new solid state flasher unit, the right rear indicator still doesn't work, however the front does and it now flashes at normal speed.




I am literally at a loss at this point - not sure what else to do here... has anyone else come across this before?



Any tips/hints/tricks?


Thanks
I can't speak for the Vapor Dash with the LED's built in specifically, but if you're going to use a LED for the indicator, you'll need to understand that the polarity of the LED bulb is a one-way proposition. Normally, the turn signals are wired to ground one side, while power the other side of the bulb in one direction, and the polarity "flips" when the indicator is switched to the other side. You can do this with incandescent bulbs without issue. In the case of a LED however you'lll need two diodes, one on each wire to that goes to the existing bulb and solder these two wires to the + side of the LED (There is a difference!). From there, you'll need to run a separate wire to ground from the - side of the bulb. This way, power is sent to the bulb when the switch is in either the left or right position, and the diode prevents power from flowing back down the other side. Examine the wiring diagram closely and see how the bulb is normally powered with the switch in both the left and right position and you should be able to figure it out.

I hope this makes sense.....
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.

opium89 screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 11:41 AM
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 11:45 AM   #66201
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,523
Went for a quick ride today. After adding SeaFoam to my gas to see if I could get rid of the rough running I felt last time out. I put the SeaFoam in the gas and did a short run on Monday to make sure the good stuff was in the carb bowl. Let it stew till today and cleaned the airfilter in between. Long story short, it worked. I don't know if I had a clogged pilot and the SeaFoam helped or if a dirty aircleaner was the culprit but I'm happy.


EXCEPT


It's about 98 degrees here today. When I tapped the front brake, I got a loud click. I checked it out and there is rotational play in the disc. The six bushings that the disc floats on are kinda loose. (I know they should be somewhat loose) I would say I have about 1 degree of rotational play and it clicks or ticks loudly when I tap the front brake. It even did it when all was at ambient temps. Is this because it's almost 100 degrees out or am I noticing something that's been there all along?? Or, worst case, something worn out?
__________________
In the beginning, there was nothing. Even That exploded
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers

Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 12:48 PM
Rusty Rocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 12:29 PM   #66202
Albie
Kool Aid poisoner
 
Albie's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 8,805
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I ride the interstate only when time restraints make it really the only option. I would much rather take the back roads across the state. Also, I don't feel as if I'm "abusing" the DR on the back roads, but I do when I'm superslabbing it.
I'd feel like I was abusing my sense of fun more then anything.
Albie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 12:31 PM   #66203
Albie
Kool Aid poisoner
 
Albie's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 8,805
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleego View Post
Help! While replacing the front wheel after a tire change, I broke one of the four studs on the axle retainer piece. Called my Suzuki dealer, but they don't list a part for it. Any ideas?

Cheers.....Lee
First thing you need to buy is a damn torque wrench!
Albie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 02:02 PM   #66204
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Crap, I don't see a part number for it on the fiche either. I know somebody will know what to do, it seems to be a pretty common thing.

Remember those only require 7 ft/lbs of torque, which is not much at all!!
Or 84 in/lbs. It is hard to find a torque wrench that goes down to 7 ft/lbs.

Slow, once you get the broken stud out just make you a new one. Find the correct bolt with the same threads and just cut the head off the bolt. Presto! new stud. Use blue loctite to put it in just in case you ever want to take it back out again.

Edit: I happen to have my DR at the shop. Appears to be a M6 X 1.00 thread

Mongle screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 02:13 PM
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 02:50 PM   #66205
ralfmuller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Brisvagas, Australia
Oddometer: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
I can't speak for the Vapor Dash with the LED's built in specifically, but if you're going to use a LED for the indicator, you'll need to understand that the polarity of the LED bulb is a one-way proposition. Normally, the turn signals are wired to ground one side, while power the other side of the bulb in one direction, and the polarity "flips" when the indicator is switched to the other side. You can do this with incandescent bulbs without issue. In the case of a LED however you'lll need two diodes, one on each wire to that goes to the existing bulb and solder these two wires to the + side of the LED (There is a difference!). From there, you'll need to run a separate wire to ground from the - side of the bulb. This way, power is sent to the bulb when the switch is in either the left or right position, and the diode prevents power from flowing back down the other side. Examine the wiring diagram closely and see how the bulb is normally powered with the switch in both the left and right position and you should be able to figure it out.

I hope this makes sense.....

All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).
ralfmuller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #66206
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,914
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleego View Post
Help! While replacing the front wheel after a tire change, I broke one of the four studs on the axle retainer piece. Called my Suzuki dealer, but they don't list a part for it. Any ideas?

Cheers.....Lee
Follow those listed already or just remove the remaining broken part and use a bolt that fits....( a stud with a nut is basically a bolt )

I bought an inch/lb torque wrench in addition to the ft/lb (actually lb/ft) one so I could get the required amount on the smaller stuff.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 03:16 PM   #66207
Snowy
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Oddometer: 1,620
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit?
Part of the clutch on the other end of the starter.

I've never had to specifically remove only the starter, so you may not actually even see the washers. Not sure how the starter motor and clutch come apart from that side, I didn't pay that much attention to it when I stripped the stater clutch last.

I was doing a trail side patch job on a busted stator cover, so my mind was on other things. Like getting out of the bush alive, and getting the 300km back to home with half a load of engine oil.
Snowy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 03:46 PM   #66208
Gleado
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: albuquerque, nm
Oddometer: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Or 84 in/lbs. It is hard to find a torque wrench that goes down to 7 ft/lbs.

Slow, once you get the broken stud out just make you a new one. Find the correct bolt with the same threads and just cut the head off the bolt. Presto! new stud. Use blue loctite to put it in just in case you ever want to take it back out again.

Edit: I happen to have my DR at the shop. Appears to be a M6 X 1.00 thread
Like Trophy hunter said, I do the same. Buy a decent quality inch/lbs needle type torque wrench. Do a Bing or Google search for inch/lbs to ft/lbs or metric conversion and you'll see what you need. I think mine overlaps my 20 to 150 ft/lb torque wrench and goes up to about 36 ft/lbs. With the lightweight fasteners you can creep up on it with the needle type really nice.
Gleado is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 04:06 PM   #66209
opium89
Beastly Adventurer
 
opium89's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).
It is my understanding the resistors are necessary to increase the load on the system. Not sure what flasher you have, but they are normally designed to work under a certain load. This is why they flash quickly or stop flashing altogether when you have a bulb out. Why did you not include them? The function of the resistors is to create this load and keep the LED's from blowing out. They only need about 2 or 3 volts I believe.

So did Trail Tech supply the harness you have? Looks like they did indeed include the diodes in the circuit (little triangle with the flat line against them). But I gather they did not include the resistors?

Here's a link to the wiring diagram. Right now I can only suggest you add the resistors as instructed and start checking your connections from the bulbs all the way through the turn signal switch.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/...png?1303513808
__________________
Tea parties are for little girls with imaginary friends.
opium89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 04:41 PM   #66210
Mutiny!
Yarr!
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Oddometer: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.
Thanks for that explanation!

Is there a way to tell if I have picked the correct TDC?

If I go ahead and optimistically assume that I have, is there a way to tell if I have jumped a cam chain tooth? If that has occurred, will I mince my engine by attepting to start it up?
Mutiny! is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014