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Old 06-21-2012, 03:02 PM   #66196
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Crap, I don't see a part number for it on the fiche either. I know somebody will know what to do, it seems to be a pretty common thing.

Remember those only require 7 ft/lbs of torque, which is not much at all!!
Or 84 in/lbs. It is hard to find a torque wrench that goes down to 7 ft/lbs.

Slow, once you get the broken stud out just make you a new one. Find the correct bolt with the same threads and just cut the head off the bolt. Presto! new stud. Use blue loctite to put it in just in case you ever want to take it back out again.

Edit: I happen to have my DR at the shop. Appears to be a M6 X 1.00 thread

Mongle screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 03:13 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:50 PM   #66197
ralfmuller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
I can't speak for the Vapor Dash with the LED's built in specifically, but if you're going to use a LED for the indicator, you'll need to understand that the polarity of the LED bulb is a one-way proposition. Normally, the turn signals are wired to ground one side, while power the other side of the bulb in one direction, and the polarity "flips" when the indicator is switched to the other side. You can do this with incandescent bulbs without issue. In the case of a LED however you'lll need two diodes, one on each wire to that goes to the existing bulb and solder these two wires to the + side of the LED (There is a difference!). From there, you'll need to run a separate wire to ground from the - side of the bulb. This way, power is sent to the bulb when the switch is in either the left or right position, and the diode prevents power from flowing back down the other side. Examine the wiring diagram closely and see how the bulb is normally powered with the switch in both the left and right position and you should be able to figure it out.

I hope this makes sense.....

All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:01 PM   #66198
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleego View Post
Help! While replacing the front wheel after a tire change, I broke one of the four studs on the axle retainer piece. Called my Suzuki dealer, but they don't list a part for it. Any ideas?

Cheers.....Lee
Follow those listed already or just remove the remaining broken part and use a bolt that fits....( a stud with a nut is basically a bolt )

I bought an inch/lb torque wrench in addition to the ft/lb (actually lb/ft) one so I could get the required amount on the smaller stuff.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:16 PM   #66199
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit?
Part of the clutch on the other end of the starter.

I've never had to specifically remove only the starter, so you may not actually even see the washers. Not sure how the starter motor and clutch come apart from that side, I didn't pay that much attention to it when I stripped the stater clutch last.

I was doing a trail side patch job on a busted stator cover, so my mind was on other things. Like getting out of the bush alive, and getting the 300km back to home with half a load of engine oil.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:46 PM   #66200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Or 84 in/lbs. It is hard to find a torque wrench that goes down to 7 ft/lbs.

Slow, once you get the broken stud out just make you a new one. Find the correct bolt with the same threads and just cut the head off the bolt. Presto! new stud. Use blue loctite to put it in just in case you ever want to take it back out again.

Edit: I happen to have my DR at the shop. Appears to be a M6 X 1.00 thread
Like Trophy hunter said, I do the same. Buy a decent quality inch/lbs needle type torque wrench. Do a Bing or Google search for inch/lbs to ft/lbs or metric conversion and you'll see what you need. I think mine overlaps my 20 to 150 ft/lb torque wrench and goes up to about 36 ft/lbs. With the lightweight fasteners you can creep up on it with the needle type really nice.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:06 PM   #66201
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).
It is my understanding the resistors are necessary to increase the load on the system. Not sure what flasher you have, but they are normally designed to work under a certain load. This is why they flash quickly or stop flashing altogether when you have a bulb out. Why did you not include them? The function of the resistors is to create this load and keep the LED's from blowing out. They only need about 2 or 3 volts I believe.

So did Trail Tech supply the harness you have? Looks like they did indeed include the diodes in the circuit (little triangle with the flat line against them). But I gather they did not include the resistors?

Here's a link to the wiring diagram. Right now I can only suggest you add the resistors as instructed and start checking your connections from the bulbs all the way through the turn signal switch.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/...png?1303513808
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:41 PM   #66202
Mutiny!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
MD, This isn't in a PM because I'm sure there is much confusion about the two TDCs. If the marker is in the window, you're at Top Dead Center, the piston is at the top of its stroke. On one rotation it's TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are completely closed and the plug fires.

On the next revolution the piston is again at TDC and both the exhaust and intake valves are slightly off their seats; in the over-lap position of the cam. This happens because after the power stroke drives the piston down, the exhaust valve opens allowing the piston to push the burned gasses out the exhaust port. As the piston nears TDC, the exhaust valve is almost closed and the intake valve has started opening; resulting in valve over-lap. In this position there is valve spring tension on both cam lobes and if you're having a bad day, when removing the CCT, the cam will rotate; possibly jumping a cam chain tooth. Probably, no; possibly?? Are ya feeling lucky??

The piston and crank T mark are in the same place twice, but the cam and valves aren't.

There isn't a mark showing when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center, all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.
Thanks for that explanation!

Is there a way to tell if I have picked the correct TDC?

If I go ahead and optimistically assume that I have, is there a way to tell if I have jumped a cam chain tooth? If that has occurred, will I mince my engine by attepting to start it up?
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:22 PM   #66203
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).

The flasher relay is designed to operate with a certain amount of resistance (2 incandescent bulbs). If the resistance changes (normally because a bulb burns out), then the flasher relay doubles the flash speed to alert the rider that one of the bulbs has burned out. The resistors are important for proper operation. Put them in, and then let us know if the problem is fixed.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #66204
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit? I was keeping a sharp eye out for any dropped bits and pieces, but all I am doing is taking the starter motor out and handing it over to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Worst case scenario is a new starter motor. I'm told the thing costs AUD800 and there are no aftermarket options. At 4,000km on the clock that seems a bit unfair.
I don't remember anything falling loose when I removed my starter from the right side of the bike (under the exhaust). Did the starter fail or is it just making noise? 4000km isn't many miles at all, did you say what year the bike is? An older bike, parked outside could explain the early failure.

There is one washer that tries to escape when removing the stator cover, #5 here: (a teaching moment; not an issue for you)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Ahh, I see. Two TDC positions, you say.

So, given that I have already ripped the thing off and now have only a 50/50 chance of having picked the correct TDC, am I quite possibly f*cked?

The one I picked seemed to have a blue stripe next to the engaved line, if that means anything. How can I tell if it is the correct TDC? What can I do to save the situation if it turns out I picked the wrong one?
Since there were so many of us that didn't even know about the TDC issue, your chances are very good that nothing bad is going to happen. If you'd like to know (and haven't rotated the engine), you could remove the rocker covers and try to move the rocker arms, side to side on the shaft (you probably won't feel the .005 up-n-down cause it's soaked in oil). If they wiggle (maybe .015") you're good. If they're tight, they're on the over-lap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
EXCEPT

It's about 98 degrees here today. When I tapped the front brake, I got a loud click. I checked it out and there is rotational play in the disc. The six bushings that the disc floats on are kinda loose. (I know they should be somewhat loose) I would say I have about 1 degree of rotational play and it clicks or ticks loudly when I tap the front brake. It even did it when all was at ambient temps. Is this because it's almost 100 degrees out or am I noticing something that's been there all along?? Or, worst case, something worn out?
Both my oem rotor and the new 320mm are both held pretty tight on their bushings with the spring washers. Have a close look at the spring washers on the back side, a few may have sacked out, or broken?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Thanks for that explanation!

Is there a way to tell if I have picked the correct TDC?

If I go ahead and optimistically assume that I have, is there a way to tell if I have jumped a cam chain tooth? If that has occurred, will I mince my engine by attepting to start it up?
As I said above, you can remove the rocker covers and feel for movement. Again, many of us have made this mistake and our motors lived. Just make sure the plunger is retracted when re-installing the CCT and then remember to release it.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:35 PM   #66205
Emmbeedee
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Motion Pro Clutch Vise Grips:

How am I supposed to use them? I had a quick look, putting the tool on the basket the way it came, and it looks like it's not going to hold unless I put a fair amount of pressure on the hub, but I don't want to damage it. Should I be grinding down the tangs on the end so they're a little smaller and will engage the clutch inner basket better?

Help?
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #66206
slowleego
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Thanks...

Mongle,

You 'da man. I'll try that.

Cheers......
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:51 PM   #66207
TrophyHunter
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If you're talking about these, they seem odd to fit correctly but work. I was concerned about snapping things if I got 'em too tight, too. I put them on firmly - which is a "feel" thing and hard to explain. I work into the tension slowly by snapping them closed, feel if it's going to hold when I try to spin the basket holding nut and maybe pop 'em off and turn the adjuster in a half turn and repeat. I'm sorry I can't explain it better but just go slow at it. No grinding necessary.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:06 PM   #66208
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post


If you're talking about these, they seem odd to fit correctly but work. I was concerned about snapping things if I got 'em too tight, too. I put them on firmly - which is a "feel" thing and hard to explain. I work into the tension slowly by snapping them closed, feel if it's going to hold when I try to spin the basket holding nut and maybe pop 'em off and turn the adjuster in a half turn and repeat. I'm sorry I can't explain it better but just go slow at it. No grinding necessary.
Yeah, those are what I'm asking about. I guess I'll just try it again and see. Glad to hear no grinding is necessary.

Thanks.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:09 PM   #66209
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Motion Pro Clutch Vise Grips:

Help?
They are not designed for the DR type hub spline and are dubious at best. (imo)
EBC make a holder for under $20.
If you already have them a little late.

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Old 06-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #66210
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
They are not designed for the DR type hub spline and are dubious at best. (imo)
EBC make a holder for under $20.
If you already have them a little late.

Argh, that looks much more useful. What kind of spline is the MP tool made for? More like the flat slots than the round ones on the DR?
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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