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Old 09-11-2012, 10:14 PM   #69016
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
acesandeights,

Electrical problems drive me crazy. I was just searching around to see if a bad ground might be the problem. I couldn't find anything definitive, but I would check all connectors and the battery connections to begin with.
I am sure someone will come along with some more ideas or possibly experienced the same problem.

Good luck!
Sorry about that, I put nevermind because I was late for an appointment, but it was a loose fuse or loose positive battery connection, or something that just started working. I don't really know because as I was taking things off I pulled a fuse to check it and it wasn't blown so I plugged it back in. I was looking at the battery cables and saw one was maybe a little loose. Before I tightened it I turned the key and everything worked fine so I don't know if the cable was loose and me touching it was enough to push it to where ever it needed to be (I tightened it since it was loose), or if the fuse was something, I don't know. I just know I didn't really do anything except pull the side covers and seat off and now everything is working right again. Even the fast blinking turn signals are blinking normally.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:33 AM   #69017
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Drilling slide

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So here's a fun little noob question for the masses: I followed a set of instructions from Kientech (think that's where I got it anyways) about doing some basic carb mods. Since I didn't have any washers small enough for the needle, I decided to just drill my slide - no pun intended. My question is, what exactly does this do? I know everyone says that it improves throttle response, but I'm not sure (A) what exactly I'm going to feel as the difference and (B) what exactly it's doing that's improving this "throttle response." Is it that drilling it out has the effect of reducing the amount of mass sliding back and forth, thus making it smoother/faster? This would be akin to the holes drilled into sprockets, so I guess that makes sense, but it doesn't seem like a few tiny holes in the plastic would make that much of a difference. Is there something else going on there, or is it more of a placebo effect? All told, it was a pretty easy thing to look at, and it was just another excuse to get out in the garage and take a wrench to the poor bike again.
Search: The BST-40 bible by Laramie lc4 on ADV. I just went through my carb on my recently acquired DR and this was helpful. Drilling the slide has nothing to do with making it lighter.

wee-twin screwed with this post 09-12-2012 at 03:38 AM Reason: Grammar
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:02 AM   #69018
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Regarding all of the recent comments about the 800xc, let me give my opinion after having owned the 800 road version.

They are hot, especially on the right side---hotter than ANY new bike I have owned since 2007 ( which includes 2 Harleys, BMW 800, Bandit, FJR, Z1000). I found the 800 to be "a ride only under 80 degrees" bike. I kept my trusty DR through all of these bikes and found myself riding the DR far more than any of these other bikes.

The second problem was the throttle. It was "twichy". It was as if there was no throttle cable slack (had it at the dealer twice for this and they said this was "normal"). The throttle was either off or on resulting in a jerky ride. It was difficult to ride at a constant speed in any of the lower gears.

I recently sold the 800 because of these issues, and am now riding only the DR.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:06 AM   #69019
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Is a used rear shock assembly worth anything? My bike has 4,500 miles and I'm considering selling the complete rear shock assembly with spring. Is there a market for it and if so, any idea what it's worth?
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:14 AM   #69020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post

The DR is an OFF-ROAD machine and A STREET machine all in one. 80 mph on the highway then bombing the rocky single track and rutted trail with ease. What other bike can do that? That is all.
Well, in all fairness the XR650L is pretty comparable, and my 690 does both MUCH BETTER. But, I do like my DR for what it is.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:34 AM   #69021
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Well, in all fairness the XR650L is pretty comparable, and my 690 does both MUCH BETTER. But, I do like my DR for what it is.
I've heard that the XR650L is better offroad just because of the additional ground clearance and the larger diameter rear tire. Still, the DR650 is more than capable of everything I'm capable of. What makes the DR so awesome is that it's so cheap and easy to work on. I'm sure the KTM isn't going to be as easy or cheap to repair when it goes TU.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:58 AM   #69022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Is a used rear shock assembly worth anything? My bike has 4,500 miles and I'm considering selling the complete rear shock assembly with spring. Is there a market for it and if so, any idea what it's worth?
ProCycle will pay $100 for it (or $150 store credit).
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:06 AM   #69023
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Not to start a heavy heated argument but I see a lot of people on here raving about the 800XC as a replacement for the DR650.

I say...NO WAY IN HELL is it even comparable. And it'll be a cold day that a street bike even comes close to competing with the DR.

Why???

Simply because it weighs more than 100lbs more, is shocked/strutted for street use, and gets horrible (low 40's) gas mileage before adding things like panniers.

I used to have an 800GS which is a hell of a better off-road adventure bike than the 800XC (better shocks, lighter weight, better gas mileage) and the 800GS was STILL about 100lbs too heavy without accessories.

So I challenge anyone who is touting the "XC" as a replacement for the DR to step up and give us some proof. Seriously. I just don't think the XC has any chance of being anything more than another street machine.

The DR is an OFF-ROAD machine and A STREET machine all in one. 80 mph on the highway then bombing the rocky single track and rutted trail with ease. What other bike can do that? That is all.

Wow, are you sure we're talking about the same bike?

The Tiger 800XC weighs in at about 470 wet. That's about the same weight as a current-gen KLR650 wet (based on actually weighing a friend's 2009 model full of gas and no accessories). yeah that's about 100 lbs heavier than the DR, but you get 3x the cylinders among other things.

Suspension... I call baloney here. The stock suspension is lightyears ahead of the DR650's stock suspension. Rework both, and the Tiger is still ahead. Av_mech here on advrider had his 800XC's suspension redone by Sasquatch and said it's a huge improvement over stock.

The reviews I've read on the F800GS vs the 800XC is that the BMW is very top-heavy by comparison. It also sits taller, which sucks for those of us with short legs. I also rode the 800GS an hour after I rode the 800XC and wouldn't have taken one if they gave it to me. Didn't like anything about it, especially the vibration. The Tiger was smooth as silk.

Now, the DR's huge advantage over either of those is its simplicity -- no electronics to fool with.

And since I don't have $15k to buy and properly outfit an 800XC, I will upgrade my DR650 instead... once I finish the suspension, it'll get a 790 kit, and then it should be pretty darn good.

But let's remember that the 800XC is the OFFROAD version of the Tiger 800 line. The regular 800 is the street model. The 800XC has more suspension travel, and spoked wheels (21" front).

Rob
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:19 AM   #69024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
i do believe the same carb on the KTM 640 comes from the factory with 2 slide holes, so there are known oem performance advantages NOT just shade-tree tuner work. my bike has a drilled slide and shimmed needle (oem but thinking about ktm one) and my bike runs better setup that way. DR is just setup lean from the factory to keep the epa people happy. it's not optimized for performance.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:24 AM   #69025
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the tiger is the top heavy one not the gs. the engine sits higher as does the gas. most all find the gs better in the dirt than the xc but like the xc motor over the gs. the xc has had a few technical issues but nothing like the problems gs guys deal with. the suspension on the xc is good, but the people have found the gs usd forks to be old-school junk and for looks only. i'd say a properly setup DR will do better than both in the dirt but will fall way short going down paved roads.
the perfect do everything bike has yet to be built though some say the 690 KTM comes closer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Wow, are you sure we're talking about the same bike?

The Tiger 800XC weighs in at about 470 wet. That's about the same weight as a current-gen KLR650 wet (based on actually weighing a friend's 2009 model full of gas and no accessories). yeah that's about 100 lbs heavier than the DR, but you get 3x the cylinders among other things.

Suspension... I call baloney here. The stock suspension is lightyears ahead of the DR650's stock suspension. Rework both, and the Tiger is still ahead. Av_mech here on advrider had his 800XC's suspension redone by Sasquatch and said it's a huge improvement over stock.

The reviews I've read on the F800GS vs the 800XC is that the BMW is very top-heavy by comparison. It also sits taller, which sucks for those of us with short legs. I also rode the 800GS an hour after I rode the 800XC and wouldn't have taken one if they gave it to me. Didn't like anything about it, especially the vibration. The Tiger was smooth as silk.

Now, the DR's huge advantage over either of those is its simplicity -- no electronics to fool with.

And since I don't have $15k to buy and properly outfit an 800XC, I will upgrade my DR650 instead... once I finish the suspension, it'll get a 790 kit, and then it should be pretty darn good.

But let's remember that the 800XC is the OFFROAD version of the Tiger 800 line. The regular 800 is the street model. The 800XC has more suspension travel, and spoked wheels (21" front).

Rob
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:30 AM   #69026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
Search: The BST-40 bible by Laramie lc4 on ADV. I just went through my carb on my recently acquired DR and this was helpful. Drilling the slide has nothing to do with making it lighter.
This BST-40 Bible post is the first thing I've read that makes the carburetor make sense to me. Very helpful. Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #69027
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at a $1000 more than the DR what does everyone think of the 650 Terra?
it's only $500 more than the 2013 KLR...who knows what Suzuki is doing for 2013???

this is hard to overlook: 58 horsepower

i'm glad BMW did this bike and priced it this close and what they offered in the bike.
it should get Suzuki, Kawi and Honda off their asses and update their old bikes!
plus maybe to get Yamaha to finally bring the 660 Tenere to the US.

i'm sure plenty of Japanese company execs are looking at those prices and saying uh oh,
there goes our price advantage.

http://www.dealernews.com/dealernews...nd-tr650-terra
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/827/13...-1st-Look.aspx
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:41 AM   #69028
Albie
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I'm sure the KTM isn't going to be as easy or cheap to repair when it goes TU.
Not true, I do all my own work. Pretty much all thumpers are easy to work on, and KTM's are cheaper parts wise then Japanese parts in my experience.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:44 AM   #69029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
KTM's are cheaper parts wise then Japanese parts in my experience.
Got any examples of prices?
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:42 AM   #69030
Albie
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Got any examples of prices?
I chose Surdyke Yamaha and Ron Ayers for the pricing as they both pretty much teh cheapest places I've found for OEM parts


Sure complete valve kit (all 4 valves, springs, guides, and oil seals) for a 690 $197
For a DR $218

Camshaft
690 - $145
DR - $226.62

Crank for the 690 is $492
For the DR $541

Just pointing out the myth that KTM parts cost some exorbitant price, when in reality they are in line with Jap parts prices.
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