ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-23-2012, 08:15 AM   #70336
planemanx15
Beastly Adventurer
 
planemanx15's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 1,009
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.
This is my exact situation... So no worries then. No dr action for me for a month... My wheel is on its way to warp 9
__________________
2000 Suzuki DR650-790 - 790cc Big bore build thread
1985 Yamaha CA50 - The little scooter that Could
2009 Piaggio BV-250 - Escusi, Babba be bo-bee
planemanx15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 08:39 AM   #70337
victor441
Studly Adventurer
 
victor441's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Is that car GPS waterproof?
The cheaper Garmin Nuvi's are not waterproof but the 500/550 models are and they sell for about $265- and also have a built in battery good for several hours so they can be used for bicycling, walking, geocaching, etc...

victor441 screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 10:55 AM
victor441 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 09:35 AM   #70338
badweatherbiker
Studly Adventurer
 
badweatherbiker's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 706
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
gonna remove it all tomorrow and go from there.
seen today I have a bent lip on my rim.
having not ridden many DR's I dont have much to compare it to but in 5th when I accelerate there is alot of vibrarion/ noise coming through my footpegs, doesn't feel smooth. Is this a normal thing?
Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Grrrrrr!
__________________
1996 Kawasaki KZ1000P (currently being rebuilt)
World class nutritional supplements, weight loss, meal replacement shakes, quality energy drinks, pre and post workout supplements!
Earn extra income, become a distributor or just purchase:
Advocare products-www.advocare.com/12084065
badweatherbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #70339
Mambo Dave
Backyard Adventurer
 
Mambo Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 5,797
Quote:
Originally Posted by philp38 View Post
The Pro Cycle Jet Kit and drilled slide also worked great on my 2009.
Same here.

I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.

It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.
Mambo Dave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #70340
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, if at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 01:36 PM
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #70341
isaac004
Studly Adventurer
 
isaac004's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 852
Rough gearbox

Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
isaac004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 10:16 AM   #70342
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.
This is what we were talking about:



The CO trace is nowhere near flat, varying between extremes of 2.6 (a little too lean) and 9.5% (quite a bit too rich as rich misfires usually begin in the 10-12.5% range). The CO should be in the range of 3-5%, i.e. if the CO varied between extremes of 3 and 5% throughout the trace, I would call that acceptable.
Quote:
It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.
"May not be perfect" is an understatement. Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 11:08 AM
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #70343
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 10:40 AM   #70344
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,944
Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #70345
johnkol
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Is that car GPS waterproof?
If by "waterproof" you mean surviving underwater, no -- but then again, the bike as a whole won't survive that either.

A light sprinkling? Sure, no problem.

A torrential downpour? Probably not, but I wouldn't know because I do not ride in the rain.

If one is overly concerned about rain though, weatherproofing is just a zip lock bag away.
johnkol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #70346
isaac004
Studly Adventurer
 
isaac004's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 852
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
Hmm, I'll change the oil tonight and install the magnetic drain plug I just bought a few weeks ago. I suppose I should fix the screw issue on the neutral switch too, since I don't know if the previous owner ever did that.
isaac004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #70347
johnkol
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
johnkol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 11:25 AM   #70348
Lil' Steve
PussyWagon™ Chauffer
 
Lil' Steve's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: NYC, AZ
Oddometer: 4,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
He meant turn signal/neutral light indicator. His bracket places them in a better location to be seen.
__________________
Steve
13 PCX150, 07 KLX250S w/300 kit, 05 DR650SE, 01 FZ-1
99 VFR800 w/870 kit, 96 GPz1100, 87 CH250
Lil' Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 12:24 PM   #70349
badweatherbiker
Studly Adventurer
 
badweatherbiker's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 706
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.

In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, it at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek
By on top I meant freeway speed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
I left the airbox half taped last night and rode it this morning half taped and the cool temps made it much worse.
Its really hard to put a bead on because this afternoon it was just as bad as this morning and nothing changed since yesterday when it was better...
still backfires, still bogs and makes funny noises.
Ok I am officially going crazy..........................
__________________
1996 Kawasaki KZ1000P (currently being rebuilt)
World class nutritional supplements, weight loss, meal replacement shakes, quality energy drinks, pre and post workout supplements!
Earn extra income, become a distributor or just purchase:
Advocare products-www.advocare.com/12084065
badweatherbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 12:58 PM   #70350
K_N_Fodder
Beastly Adventurer
 
K_N_Fodder's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Ten Sleep, WY
Oddometer: 1,062
WTB - OEM Turn Signal Cluster

Gents -

Drop me a PM if you happen to have a working OEM DR turn signal cluster from the current generation you want to make a few bucks on. Mine's croaked... I'd go aftermarket Highway Dirtbikes or something but I'm going to sell it so will stick with stock.

Located in Bend, Oregon. Getting a little snowy here already...


Thanks!
Justin
K_N_Fodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015