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Old 11-10-2012, 08:46 AM   #70846
Rob.G
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Wow those are great pix of Anza-Borrego! I never did get to see that area when I lived closeby. I didn't have my KLX250S at the time and also hadn't learned to ride in sand, so I was avoiding the place. Same for Ocotillo.

Now up here in Oregon it's not sand to worry about, it's MUD! :)

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Old 11-10-2012, 09:45 AM   #70847
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Just a question: If you get a flat out in the bush and the tubeless tire comes off the bead, how do you plan to get it back on?
Oh...
That seems to defeat the purpose doesn't it?
I thought the purpose was to avoid carrying tubes and to not need to remove tires for tube repair/insertion.
Good point. Solution? Easy ... just put a tube in there.
Most flats the bead will remain attached. Which means inserting a plug should do the trick. If you ride the tire FLAT for a long distance, the bead will probably let go, then if you can't re-seat it ... you'll have to break it down and install a tube. Not the end of the world.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 11-10-2012 at 09:53 AM
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:48 AM   #70848
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Grifter here is how I did it. Used wire brush to clean nipple area, Dremel and drill power.

Two applications of Seal-All the one of Goop, same manufacturer. Available at most hardware stores.

Mounted tires and then did bathtub test for leaks, no leaks. First tried to mount some used TrackMaster tires designed to use tubes and could not get them to pop and seal bead. Got out my new Kenda Big Block and they popped right in place.

Waited a few days before checking air pressures again, all okay. Mounted wheels on bike and did test ride. All seems okay.

TravelGuy
Thanks for posting the details! Excellent. Can you tell me what tubeless valve you used? The guys at my local Car tire shop gave me one ... and I bought another at the Auto parts store. Had to reem out hole in rim to fit.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:20 AM   #70849
Kommando
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I just visited Procycle's site and noticed that they have SEVERAL package deals available right now for setting up/maintaining our DR650SEs.

Way to go, Jeff! One-stop shopping can sure make things easier.

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Old 11-10-2012, 10:24 AM   #70850
TRAVELGUY
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NAPA 90-426 will fit stock rim hole.

Did a little 45 mile test ride today and rims still holding air.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for posting the details! Excellent. Can you tell me what tubeless valve you used? The guys at my local Car tire shop gave me one ... and I bought another at the Auto parts store. Had to reem out hole in rim to fit.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:30 AM   #70851
bradrh
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tubeless

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The main advantage is you can repair a simple puncture with a plug. But to be prepared for a damaged rim or tire damage that won't hold a plug you would really want a tube as backup.
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:22 AM   #70852
dljocky
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I thought the front and back wheel off the pre-96's needed a lot of spacer work, rotor pattern work before they could be used on post 96's?



Quote:
Originally Posted by B.E. Coyote View Post
will a 93 dr350 front wheel fit a dr650? I know the back is compatible.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:31 AM   #70853
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Road riders don't need to worry too much about damaging their rims, damaging the rim seal area. But offroad riders do fairly often.
I once got a flat during an enduro race; 50 miles later I finished the race on the same flat tyre, then rode another 20 miles of slab in order to get home.

I fixed the flat at home, using the same rim and tyre -- both undamaged.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #70854
TRAVELGUY
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I want to run tubeless for quick roadside repair if necessary. Dirt riding I have never pinched a tube but I understand that most riders feel that low tire pressure increases the chance of tube pinch. When I was competing in enduro's and hareschabbles sometimes I ran as little a 5 lbs in the rear and 7 or 8 in the front in serious mud conditions. That was on bikes of a little over 200 lbs. I feel sure that with my Safari tank and travel luggage my DR650 will be well over 400 lbs, probably 475ish. So that can be a entirely different circumstance. I plan to run 25 lbs in the front and 30 rear. Hopefully will not ride much mud this trip.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:41 AM   #70855
B.E. Coyote
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I thought the front and back wheel off the pre-96's needed a lot of spacer work, rotor pattern work before they could be used on post 96's?

I don't think there is that much involved with the rear. I little fudging with the rotor is all from what I can find out.

I have not found anything out about the front, but I just came home with a pair of dr350 wheels so I will find out soon.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #70856
dljocky
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Nice! Let us know how it goes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by B.E. Coyote View Post
I don't think there is that much involved with the rear. I little fudging with the rotor is all from what I can find out.

I have not found anything out about the front, but I just came home with a pair of dr350 wheels so I will find out soon.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:50 AM   #70857
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
On mtn bikes the main advantage is being able to run lower pressures without pinch flatting. Does that not hold for a motorcycle too?
That's true of the 'Tubliss" system. You can run down to the 4-5 psi range on a trail bike.
The Tubliss insert holds the tire to the beads even if the tire is flat.
Just sealing up all the spoke holes doesn't help for running lower pressure.
Running lower pressure makes it easier to unseat a tire bead and have an instant flat.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:03 PM   #70858
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Too many miles?

I'm starting to look for my first dual sport and have found a 2006 with 18,000 miles for sale. How may miles is "too many"? Also, are there any known issues I should look out for? Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:07 PM   #70859
TheMightyQuinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98stage2 View Post
I'm starting to look for my first dual sport and have found a 2006 with 18,000 miles for sale. How may miles is "too many"? Also, are there any known issues I should look out for? Thanks!
FWIW, I have put 25K miles on the 06 I bought new. I ride it very hard both on and off road. It still runs very well. The only problems I have had were a dead ignition stator (around 15K), an oil leak at the cam chain tensioner (around 17K), and a loose float assembly in the carb due to orings (around 1K) fixed under warranty. I hope to get another 25K before it is toast, although if the engine does wear out, it would give me an excuse to rebuild it with a big bore kit.

As I think back to my experience with tires, tubes and flats, I ran MT21s or a MT21/D606 combo with heavy duty tubes for most of the first 20K and did not have even one flat tire. This included running tire pressures as low as 12 PSI and hitting rocks hard enough to bend the rims several times. I tried a set of lighter duty IRC GP1 tires for the last 2K and had flats on both the front (pinch flat) and the rear (unknown reason). I'm back on the MT21s now.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #70860
felixblack1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
Felix, have you already dialed in your suspension?
I'm just getting acquainted with my DR and encountered some near spiritual high speed wobble on gravel. Definite wake up and get it right or slow down call. Made me think about a steering damper but then thinking more says get the spring rates and dampening right, front and rear, before fiddling with the steering. I haven't made the changes yet but will be installing heavier springs and emulators at the front and an Ohlins with heavier spring at rear. After working that out I'll evaluate need for steering damper. Dollar and overall performance return should be far greater following this sequence.
I'm running Racetech shock shaft assemply with 8.1kg spring at the back and Emulators and 0.5 straight rate springs at the front. That was setup for a fairly heavy load. I've never really fine tuned it though. Yeh, not a good idea to buy a steering damper to tune out speed wobbles. you need to work on suspension. I'm no suspension expert so I can't help you with waht you need. Plenty of helpful people on here and plenty of info already posted on here. I ordered all my suspension through Procycle and found there website helpful.
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