the DR650 thread

[maynard911]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

No I don't need the clearance. When I did the Cogent shock (single lower hole), I thought I'd given up on the lowering possibility. At $21.50, there is a very good chance I'll be trying these on over the winter. Thank You. .

It's not all roses though, when you install lowering links you change the leverage ratio on the suspension.
It has the same effect from a suspension point of view as lengthening the swingarm, a longer lever working on a given stiffness spring.
If you are doing more than an inch expect to need a new spring and revalve on the shock, unless things are already too stiff for you. From my experience on a DRZ I would say that the carrying capacity decreases around 20- 25pounds per inch of lowering.
Disclaimer--I don't claim to be a suspension expert, this is just my observation. For more knowlegable info talk to Race Tech or Rick at Cogent Dynamics..

[ER70S-2]

Thanks Maynard, good point; my stock spring is just (barely) enough (6.x). I had already been thinking about a 7.x something or other.

[Rob.G]

Hey folks... got a new one for you.

I have an FCR_MX carb (from MXRob) on my DR650. For as long as I've had the bike, the choke knob won't stay all the way out. I have to sit there and hold it in place til it warms up enough, or just ride it and deal with the lean surge.

I had always thought it was the IMS tank that was responsible for this, and this morning I went out to do something about it. I was going to use a sanding wheel on my Dremel to grind a smidge away from the backside of the tank so that it'd clear. But I discovered that the tank isn't the problem. It's the choke knob itself. It just won't stay out.

Is there an adjustment or anything I can do to make the thing stay put? I had considered putting the handlebar-mounted choke lever back on (I got the cable from the PO), but since I have 5" of rise in the bars, I'd probably need to order a longer one, and that's $40 I don't want to spend.

Rob

[sandwash]

Maybe a new choke unit,mine does this too,no biggie for me though.Doesn't need to be on long,just enough to get it going and than I wait till the Vapor reads a least 100.I just take it easy for the first 10-15 min.

[acesandeights]

I am considering a couple weeks in Baja, probably riding to the southern-most tip and back. I'm considering the need/want for a steering damper. Any thoughts on the necessity of this? I don't "want" one, I'm more concerned with the "need" for one, if that makes sense. I realize people ride without them, but I'm wondering if it'll make enough of a difference that it'd be worth the hundreds of $ toward the the ease/pleasure of the ride.

Also, I am considering the Ralle-Moto RM2 (I think that's the model). Any gooder ones I should consider?

[DockingPilot]

Originally Posted by BergDonk

The thing with oil is that unless youy have any obvious issues like its too thick for cold starting, or clutch slip, you'll never really know for many, many kms/miles if one is any better than any other. One indicator though for sure is if you notice any 'improvements' with fresh oil of the same type drained, then you left it too long before changing it.

Not true. You can and I do know anytime I choose when I drain my oil, which is often only because I'm anal with it. Blackstone labs will send you a free oil sample kit. Send it in and for a cheap price you'll know how good or not your engine and oil are getting along and for how long. You also know how well your air filter is doing its job. That's how I dial in my oil of choice and grade for each machine.

[TRAVELGUY]

I have heard this before but question it changing the ratio. Changing the length of the links only moves the pivot point of the "L" linkage, changing only it's pivot point, no difference in the length of it's arms. I have installed lowering links, only one inch, on several bikes and haven't noticed any change harder or softer. I also would like to have a real suspension person answer this question.

TravelGuy.

Originally Posted by maynard911

It's not all roses though, when you install lowering links you change the leverage ratio on the suspension.
It has the same effect from a suspension point of view as lengthening the swingarm, a longer lever working on a given stiffness spring.
If you are doing more than an inch expect to need a new spring and revalve on the shock, unless things are already too stiff for you. From my experience on a DRZ I would say that the carrying capacity decreases around 20- 25pounds per inch of lowering.
Disclaimer--I don't claim to be a suspension expert, this is just my observation. For more knowlegable info talk to Race Tech or Rick at Cogent Dynamics..

[procycle]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

I have heard this before but question it changing the ratio. Changing the length of the links only moves the pivot point of the "L" linkage, changing only it's pivot point, no difference in the length of it's arms.

+1
A guy over at DRriders actually plotted out the DR650 linkage ratio. Turned out it is very nearly linear. Certainly not what I would have expected as the main reason linkages are used is to provide a controlled progressive action to the shock. A progressive linkage would become a bit stiffer by installing lowering links.

In addition, by lowering the suspension you decrease the available travel. All things being equal, shorter travel will require a stiffer spring to resist bottoming.

[acesandeights]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

I am considering a couple weeks in Baja, probably riding to the southern-most tip and back. I'm considering the need/want for a steering damper. Any thoughts on the necessity of this? I don't "want" one, I'm more concerned with the "need" for one, if that makes sense. I realize people ride without them, but I'm wondering if it'll make enough of a difference that it'd be worth the hundreds of $ toward the the ease/pleasure of the ride.

Also, I am considering the Ralle-Moto RM2 (I think that's the model). Any gooder ones I should consider?

Bump for the night crowd.

[TRAVELGUY]

This implies reduced travel movement length. If you have sufficiant clearance from hard parts there would be no difference in length of travel correct?

TravelGuy

In addition, by lowering the suspension you decrease the available travel. All things being equal, shorter travel will require a stiffer spring to resist bottoming.[/QUOTE]

[procycle]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

This implies reduced travel movement length. If you have sufficiant clearance from hard parts there would be no difference in length of travel correct?

TravelGuy

In addition, by lowering the suspension you decrease the available travel. All things being equal, shorter travel will require a stiffer spring to resist bottoming.

IF you have sufficient clearance. On most bikes there isn't all that much 'extra' clearance before the tire hits the underside of the fender. A little tire contact isn't much of a problem. On my bike it just makes a clean spot.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

I am considering a couple weeks in Baja, probably riding to the southern-most tip and back. I'm considering the need/want for a steering damper. Any thoughts on the necessity of this? I don't "want" one, I'm more concerned with the "need" for one, if that makes sense. I realize people ride without them, but I'm wondering if it'll make enough of a difference that it'd be worth the hundreds of $ toward the the ease/pleasure of the ride.

Also, I am considering the Ralle-Moto RM2 (I think that's the model). Any gooder ones I should consider?

The DR650s aren't an unstable bike and are OK in sand without a damper. But one cant hurt either. I have one on mine, but it came with the package when I got the bike. Its an MSC which is the parent company for Rallemoto AFAIK. I run Scotts on my Bergs. I prefer the Scotts because of the separate high and low speed circuits. For normal riding I set them up so you can't feel anything, but if there is a deflection, the high speed control kicks in. For sand, I just add a bit of low speed, and unwind it when out of the sand.

For me, every now and then, I hit something, and think it could have been worse if I didn't have a damper, but otherwise they go unnoticed.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

I am considering a couple weeks in Baja, probably riding to the southern-most tip and back. I'm considering the need/want for a steering damper. Any thoughts on the necessity of this? I don't "want" one, I'm more concerned with the "need" for one, if that makes sense. I realize people ride without them, but I'm wondering if it'll make enough of a difference that it'd be worth the hundreds of $ toward the the ease/pleasure of the ride.

Also, I am considering the Ralle-Moto RM2 (I think that's the model). Any gooder ones I should consider?

Steering dampers really help in deep sand. Baja has lots of it ... throughout most of the off road routes you'll find. There are some areas without it but eventually you will be riding in deep sand.

I've been a few times to Baja on my DR650. It has NO steering damper.
But I did not ride too many bad sandy sections. I did dirt roads where I could, and a fair bit of pavement. Suffice to say ... the very best of Baja involves LOTS OF SAND.

TIP: Try to ride early AM when sand is damp ... or pray for rain. (unlikely)

A steering damper takes riding sand from a NIGHTMARE to a DREAM!

Bits and pieces of Baja look like this ... but this road is only 12 miles long ... then it turns to deep sand. The Vstrom had to turn around.

This is more like it ... That DRZ has a damper ... what a pleasure.

Certain mountain sections go on like this for miles. No problemo.

Hundreds of miles of THIS ... deep and tough.

[heirhead]

Hello,

Bought lowering links from ProCycle and the holes were just about 1/2 inch closer than the ones I have on. Switched them out and noticed no difference. The ones I had on said E32 on them, do not know if they are stock. Any Ideas?
Also bought a 520 13 tooth front to run with stock chain. Many people said no problem. The part that screws into sprocket
has only has 2 holes for bolts into sprocket where as my other one, ProCycle, has 3. 2 bolts OK?

Heirhead

Not very good at riding bikes and worse working on them!!!!!!!!!

[UberKul]

I'm confused how a damper helps in the sand? Does it take the vague sensation of parallel ruts and ridges out of the bars enough to give a more planted feeling?
I could definitely see using one if you where going to be bombing down planted rock roads all day long.
A damper has been on my to-do list for long time...just not on the DR.

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