the DR650 thread

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

When you say "stock" ... Is that a Suzuki OEM provided Kit? by Mikuni? (you know, the guys who designed and built the Carb?) Not all Carb kits are created equal. I found Suzuki carb parts so expensive, I just bought a nice used carb from an inmate who'd gone with an FCR pumper.

Our kit is made up of OEM parts with the exception of the float needle (Suzuki does not offer it separate from the float assembly) and the stainless steel allen screws.

[Paddle007]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

What front end is that? Makes the bike look like it's been on a diet. Looks skinny compared to stock.

Illusions I'm afraid. A little more clearance between the fender and tire. Less fender. Forks may be just a tad wider....2008 YZ450 forks

[greer]

I've mentioned before, Autozone sells viton o-rings in a variety pack, says "HELP" on the package. Working fine in both our bikes and a buddy's.

Sarah

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

Not criticizing Jeff: You should probably not tear open kits to do this. I worked at a Suzuki dealer that broke spoke kits apart to do the very same thing. Problem was the same spokes always broke so 3/4's of the kit were useless. A great big box of odd spokes exists to this day, and I haven't worked there since 1996.

I did some digging around before buying the o-rings from the dealer. I researched the best mat'l to resist gasoline and alcohol. I measured the o-rings and found a supply house that had the size and mat'l I wanted. Price was very favorable per o-ring. The problem was they only sold packages of 100 per size. Thought about buying and offering them for sale to the masses, but decided it wasn't worth the trouble. Kind of like the headlite protectors I make for friends. Not worth trying to "break even" selling them.

[Aerocycle]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

.

I'm running the 244s right now: a 3:00-21 on the front and a 5:10-17 on the rear. Since the DR is 'portly' and I occassionaly ride a little sand, I want the extra floatation (if it even matters). I'm thinking the 2:75 would knife in easier and I don't like that concept.

Unless I buy another FJR, I'm not going to worry about speed. Tires are rated at some 'big' safety factor and I'm ok with that. The wind buffeting at those speeds will slow ME down a long time before the tire is a problem. IMO

Thanks a bunch, im likely going to order them from motorcycle superstore... They're supposed to be on sale with free shipping. I'll be sure to run the right pressure. Thanks to both you guys who helped me out. :-D

[ER70S-2]

[heirhead]

Originally Posted by Mongle

You should try the full height setup. I am only 5'8" w/ 29-30 inch inseam. I have stock height with stiffer springs. I like the extra ground clearance more then being able to flat foot at a stop. Really, the only time my feet touch the ground is when I am stopped so it doesn't matter how tall it is. The DR is light compaired to a lot of bikes so holding it up with only one foot (even loaded down) isn't a big deal.

Hello,

5' 9" but 60 yrs young and need knees replaced, foot needs 4th operation, have torn right rotator cuff and about 80 lbs overweight!!!! What a wreck!!! I know what your thinking, wonder why his knees and feet are shot? 2 much info!!!
Just want it shorter to take away a little pain when off road, as when I put foot down there is nothing but air or water, KERPLUNK!!!!!!!!!!! No jumps or 1/2 mile wheelies anymore.
Well, lowered front to 1 and 1/8" up on forks. Loading bike with 40 in. wide rack on top of Cycleracks, Rotopax 2 gal, 1 gal water and Rotopax tool case. Ortliebs on sides, tent and bag in huge waterproof scuba bag and lots of other goodies to see how I can handle her. Brand new tires! Just added some farkles painted yellow and polished all shiny. Going to Coyote Cyn in Anza Borrego Desert this weekend. Last time I went had stock gearing,( to Tall ), stock shock, and stock seat. Now 13 front, 8.3 rear shock, Lowering links and front lowered. Last time, Feb 2012 had brand new skid plate on. Fell 3 times going up and once down. Skid plate did its job, got hammered. Well now the bike is LOWER but much stronger spring. Been riding whole life but really never did much in the way of suspension except MX in early 70s. The ride is really fun with sand, water crossings, rocks and ginormous palm trees at top around an Oasis. Youtube it. Live at the beach and always stop at Palomar mountain on way, maybe snow as it rained most of the day and now. Have been riding my xt225 and tw200 so I feel like I'm on a fire breathing MONSTER. Can't wait.

Thanks again for all of you advice and knowledge.

Heirhead

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by Aerocycle

Thanks a bunch, im likely going to order them from motorcycle superstore... They're supposed to be on sale with free shipping. I'll be sure to run the right pressure. Thanks to both you guys who helped me out. :-D

Yep the pressure is the most important aspect.....a tire with too low pressure will overheat fast at highway speeds......keep up on the pressures and yer golden

[kezzajohnson]

Originally Posted by procycle

Please...
if any of you want us to pull a couple of orings out of an already made up kit. Please find some other items you need to add to the order. Make it worth the extra time and effort it costs us. Shipping out only a couple of orings is a money loosing process for us. Not to mention setting aside a broken up carb repair kit and making sure replacement orings get back into it. We don't just have orings sitting in a bin on a shelf. We order in all the kit parts and package them up into complete kits and put the kits in a bin on a shelf waiting to ship out.

Yeah, you friggin tight arses. Better still get off your backsides and try and get the orings matched up from a local supplier if that is all you want.

[JMR]

Originally Posted by heirhead

...Well, lowered front to 1 and 1/8" up on forks. ...
Heirhead

You do realize that the DR650 suspension has two factory designed configurations: 1.) Normal and 2.) Lowered 1.5" right?

Its just a matter of swapping a couple spacers and the procedure is covered in detail in the service manual. (But it does require a couple special tools.)

I lowered mine this summer and love it. I can now reach the ground without tippy toes!

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by heirhead

Hello,

Thanks for all who responded. The shock is stock but have stiffer spring on it due to my fat ass!!
The shock has been lowered already. The RED CIRCLE is fine.
ProCycle, understood OK, just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.
Now what about that shock spring seat height???
I must be really short!!

Thanks again,

Heirhead

The shock spring seat controls how far the shaft can travel into the shock body. When you're using the top shock hole, the tire can hit the fender. Flipping (inverting) the spring seat changes the rear suspension from 10.2" travel to 8.7", preventing tire-fender contact. It makes no difference on the seat height, only how far the shock can compress. It pushes the bump stop up the shaft, toward the shock body, permanently (or until you put it back the other way).

It's the round aluminum piece, just to the left of the shock clevis. You can see it's almost sitting on the clevis shoulder. Slide it off of the shock shaft (that's why it's not a full 360*) and put it back on the shock, upside down. Now it won't use the surface it was sitting on before, it will be about 3/4" farther left in the pic. (higher when the shock is vertical).
Photo thanks to TrophyHunter and findable thanks to Krusty's DR650 Index.

[TRAVELGUY]

Was going to post some photos of my sealed rims and mounted tires after first test ride. I was never good at posting photos from photobucket and this time just could not make it work. Anyway sealing the rims went well and have held pressure for a few days. Test ride went well. Will post if any problems or failures happen.

TravelGuy

[TRAVELGUY]

Well finally got the photo to post. Tires hold air and all is going well. Will post if any future problems arise.

TravelGuy

[Adv Grifter]

Photos? No Photos showing here. (EDIT: WHOOPS! There they are!) But I'm not a Photobucket fan. I had an account but now use Baldy's Smug Mug site. (ADV site owner).
I also use Picasa (a Google product). Both are flawless, easy link to forums ... and the pics don't suddenly disappear like with some photo hosting sites.

Smug Mug is not free, but its a cheap way to support ADV Rider ... and its' ten times better than any free site ... if you know all its features.

Did you do a photo document of the sealing process? I'd love to find out what I did wrong and how to correct it.
Cheers!

[TRAVELGUY]

Grifter here is how I did it. Used wire brush to clean nipple area, Dremel and drill power.

Two applications of Seal-All the one of Goop, same manufacturer. Available at most hardware stores.

Mounted tires and then did bathtub test for leaks, no leaks. First tried to mount some used TrackMaster tires designed to use tubes and could not get them to pop and seal bead. Got out my new Kenda Big Block and they popped right in place.

Waited a few days before checking air pressures again, all okay. Mounted wheels on bike and did test ride. All seems okay.

Did try sumbug a couple of years ago and could not get it to work for me. Was living in Costa Rica at that time and had better things to do then play with computer. Now back in the states so may try again before my Mexico trip this coming January. Hopefully the rim sealing will work on this trip because many friends during rides in Mex have found nails and screws, may be my turn this trip. 25000+ miles moto travel in Central America the in last few years, no problems and wonderful people live there. This trip going to Copper Canyon the ferry over to La Paz and ride Baja to the north. Not sure where after that but plan to be there for a month at least. As you may see I got the bugs out of PhotoBug this afternoon.

TravelGuy

[biosci]

Thanks ER70S I finally found the explanation I was seeking. appreciate the pics too.

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

The shock spring seat controls how far the shaft can travel into the shock body. When you're using the top shock hole, the tire can hit the fender. Flipping (inverting) the spring seat changes the rear suspension from 10.2" travel to 8.7", preventing tire-fender contact. It makes no difference on the seat height, only how far the shock can compress. It pushes the bump stop up the shaft, toward the shock body, permanently (or until you put it back the other way).

It's the round aluminum piece, just to the left of the shock clevis. You can see it's almost sitting on the clevis shoulder. Slide it off of the shock shaft (that's why it's not a full 360*) and put it back on the shock, upside down. Now it won't use the surface it was sitting on before, it will be about 3/4" farther left in the pic. (higher when the shock is vertical).
.