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Old 11-20-2012, 10:52 AM   #71311
P-P
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Location: The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
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Okay, okay, so there IS flex! Wrong again, my bad!

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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:14 PM   #71312
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Originally Posted by P-P View Post
Okay, okay, so there IS flex! Wrong again, my bad!
That's more like "sag" than flex. Someone ride it hard over a speed bump and put it out of its misery.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:32 PM   #71313
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Originally Posted by Team Longriders View Post
So when I was removing the charcoal canister, I broke the fitting on the bottom of the carb that the hose goes to. Am I screwed? Can I epoxy it tojust plug it or am sol. I fired it up and it doesn't seem to suck any air. But the fitting is brass and has a hole through it.


Any help would be helpful. just need to know if I broke a vent fitting, or a vacuum fitting.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:43 PM   #71314
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
That's more like "sag" than flex. Someone ride it hard over a speed bump and put it out of its misery.
It has no misery left.
It was parted out by a member here...
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #71315
neo1piv014
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
It has no misery left.
It was parted out by a member here...
Tell me it was built as a joke, right?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:46 PM   #71316
Mongle
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Originally Posted by Team Longriders View Post
Any help would be helpful. just need to know if I broke a vent fitting, or a vacuum fitting.

I'm not sure what you have there- never worked on a Calif. bike.

BUT, looking at the shop manual diagram: If it is the port on the bottom of the carb toward the front I believe that is what they call the "purge port". It takes the charcoal canister vapor and sucks it back through the engine. It may only have vaccum when the engine is picked up off idle (throttle blade is opened). Have somone rev the engine while you put your finger over it. It may be light and hard to feel with your finger.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #71317
P-P
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It is a vacuum fitting. If you're abandoning the system, then at least plug the hole to prevent foriegn matter intrusion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Longriders View Post
Any help would be helpful. just need to know if I broke a vent fitting, or a vacuum fitting.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:08 PM   #71318
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Jessepitt took a great pic of his non-Kalifornia BST, it looks like you can just epoxy it shut.

Photo from here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71

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Old 11-20-2012, 01:31 PM   #71319
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Need your advice, fellow DR riders:

As you may know, I was having electrical problems with my bike in western Tanzania (she's a 1998 with 74,000+ miles). She was dying after a few minutes of running and a reworked carb, a newer CDI, rectifier and ignition coil didn't solve the problem, so I figured it was the stator. I got a new stator shipped in, the 250W uprated one and installed that along with slightly-newer parts from parted DRs: a CDI from a 2006 and a rectifier from a 2001. After those parts, she fired up and sounded really good. I did 50 kms of test rides and was confident the problem was solved, so got back on the trail heading south.

But now, after 400 kms (250 miles), the problem is back. She died on me today in the middle of muddy roads. It felt like a loss of power. I let her cool, we rode a bit more and then she died again. I figured since I didn't replace the original ignition coil, maybe it was acting up now. I put in the coil from the 2001 bike and she died again in a few kms. Then I unplugged the generator and we ran for a while before same failure. Then I unplugged the rectifier and we ran fine for a few kms before she died again. The longer I let her cool down before trying again, the longer she lasts before dying again. To me, this sounds like something is heating up and causing the loss of power. It doesn't feel like a fuel (carb) issue. It feels like something is cutting power to the spark plugs. I limped her back to a small town.

I'm running on the Shorai battery and have a voltage monitor and after unplugging both stator and rectifier, battery was holding charge at 13.45 and after two starts with no stator, it dropped to 13.35 V.

I have a replacement wiring harness from the 2006 bike. Is mounting that on going to help? That's all I can think of now. I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting her on a truck and heading back to a good mechanic in Nairobi. Argghhh!!!!
Man, that's bad luck! You've replaced just about everything it seems. Hard to know where to look. I suspect a bad Pick-Up coil (ignitor) ... within the stator. Maybe swap in another from the other stator? They can be intermittent, from what I've heard. Maybe heat related?

Got to be heat related issue as she starts after cool down, no?
Could also be Rectifier/Regulator ... but I know you replaced that too.
But using 2nd hand donated parts ... its sometimes not possible to know if they are "known good". Not an easy situation ...

I know you wired in a bunch of switches in your dash. Could anything there be shorting or in anyway screwing things up? Also ... when you modded your dash, did you mod the ignition switch? I was thinking of that little hidden resistor (anti-theft) under the switch. It interfaces into the harness and goes to CDI ... if shorted or missing ... bike won't start. I doubt it is intermittent though. More mystery.

When you swap out the harness ... take care that little resistor.

But I keep coming back to the Pick-Up coil (ignitor)

Good luck ... I hope you solve it!
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:12 PM   #71320
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Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Look at the existing harness and check for any frayed wires.

In particular, look at the wiring of the ignition switch (where your key goes) and where the wires bends around the steering stem. You have an older bike so any areas of flex (steering) may pose a problem purely because of wear. I had a cb750 that occasionally died & restarted right away. The problem was a worn connection into a molex connector that disconnected when turning slightly left.

The obvious areas of shorts are ignition switch, kill switch, clutch switch, side stand switch.

There's not a lot of wiring, may as well take a good look at it all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Need your advice, fellow DR riders:

As you may know, I was having electrical problems with my bike in western Tanzania (she's a 1998 with 74,000+ miles). She was dying after a few minutes of running and a reworked carb, a newer CDI, rectifier and ignition coil didn't solve the problem, so I figured it was the stator. I got a new stator shipped in, the 250W uprated one and installed that along with slightly-newer parts from parted DRs: a CDI from a 2006 and a rectifier from a 2001. After those parts, she fired up and sounded really good. I did 50 kms of test rides and was confident the problem was solved, so got back on the trail heading south.

But now, after 400 kms (250 miles), the problem is back. She died on me today in the middle of muddy roads. It felt like a loss of power. I let her cool, we rode a bit more and then she died again. I figured since I didn't replace the original ignition coil, maybe it was acting up now. I put in the coil from the 2001 bike and she died again in a few kms. Then I unplugged the generator and we ran for a while before same failure. Then I unplugged the rectifier and we ran fine for a few kms before she died again. The longer I let her cool down before trying again, the longer she lasts before dying again. To me, this sounds like something is heating up and causing the loss of power. It doesn't feel like a fuel (carb) issue. It feels like something is cutting power to the spark plugs. I limped her back to a small town.

I'm running on the Shorai battery and have a voltage monitor and after unplugging both stator and rectifier, battery was holding charge at 13.45 and after two starts with no stator, it dropped to 13.35 V.

I have a replacement wiring harness from the 2006 bike. Is mounting that on going to help? That's all I can think of now. I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting her on a truck and heading back to a good mechanic in Nairobi. Argghhh!!!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:43 PM   #71321
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Jammin

In addition to the other excellent suggestions, check the white 2 pin conector to the coil under the tank. And are you absolutely sure its not running out of fuel in the carb when it stops? How about the kill switch contacts?
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:56 PM   #71322
DRT
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Jammin

Second the checking of fuel flow to the carb.

In particular check the filter sock that is right at the junction of the fuel line and the carb. My was clogged once and was doing something pretty close to what your symptoms sound like.
As the float level got too low the power would cut out so abruptly that i was convinced there was an electrical problem.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:46 PM   #71323
johnkol
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Location: SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I've got a 2009 DR650 with 40,000 miles. I'm feeling/hearing a "clunk" when I get on the front brakes hard, I'm thinking I might need to replace my steering bearings?
Not necessarily.

Do you have the Service Manual? The only thing you may have to do is tighten the steering stem nut (page 5-20, item 7). After you do this, check for any tight spots as you rotate the triple clamps; if the bearings feel smooth, then you're set. Double-check for play in the bearings -- follow the cautionary note at the bottom of page 5-26.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:55 PM   #71324
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Tyre pressures are proportional to rider weight, so a 250-lb rider should certainly be using higher tyre pressures than a 150-lb rider. And indeed, underinflating tyres will make for a sub-standard handling bike.
You know, it hit me as I was doing a bank and grocery run on the DR650 today that I should have added that I'm no heavy-weight, and the bike isn't 'loaded down.'

And it sorta seems like the Shinko 705 owners are reporting running over suggested pressures, by a good degree, more than any other tire make.

I'm about 185 pounds... and aside from the 7 pounds of lard and two pounds of cube steak I had on the bike today (above and beyond my own lard and tube steak), it runs pretty stock weights normally. Yet, probably mostly due to the front tire/wheel's feel, I run my tires like I wrote earlier - high 20's front, 30 or 32 rear.

I'm not advocating it, or saying it's safe, or anything, but I'm damned glad to know other guys are feeling what I am feeling out of the 705's, and doing the same. When I die from a horrible fire-ry crash due to it, I'll report back here and say "Don't do that" ... but until then I'm going to run what feels good to me for turning and cornering.

It also hit me that a part of this may me a slightly flexier tire build (since thus far it's mostly 705 guys) coupled with a weak front suspension. Maybe some part of it is trying to make up for just a too smushy front end, but then that really doesn't explain why I did it ... which was to counter what I was feeling in the tire during even mild and slow transitions.

Probably all of us who have reported running them that high on relatively stock bikes would be better served with a set of SM wheels and tires, or a 19" front and street tire, (and a suspension upgrade) to counter what we're feeling up to the point at which we want to take our bikes off road. But no matter... airing the 21" 705 up just seems OK enough that I don't really care. Well, OK enough that I don't care for now - I'd still like the tire to 'feel' the way it does now, but with a fork spring upgrade (or emulators, or... other forks).

Mambo Dave screwed with this post 11-20-2012 at 05:02 PM
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:32 PM   #71325
Lil' Steve
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Tell me it was built as a joke, right?

Not sure, some redneck engineering and meth were likely involved. I picked that up years ago from a local classified ad, kept the wheels and parted the rest.
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