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Old 11-25-2012, 07:39 AM   #71446
opium89
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Hutto, Texas
Oddometer: 1,136
Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
1. Can you check the engine # from the replacement and ascertain what year bike it came out of?
Replacement: P409-112575

Grenade: P409-108145

Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
2. Is there a way to make certain the parts fiche is correct in displaying/not displaying the washer with respect to the model years?
I suppose I could call Bike Bandit and find out, but they've been pretty spot on so far.


By chance, I found an ad on eBay from the exact salvage yard I purchased the bottom end from. They just so happen to have the started idler gear listed from an engine that matched the engine number as mine. The listing states: "The speedometer read 32199 miles before we parted this bike down"

Sometimes you get lucky I guess....at least now I know what I am dealing with! Even at 32k, do you think it's worth a complete tear-down? The busted case only had 6000 on it before the starter-induced implosion.
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opium89 screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 08:17 AM
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:19 AM   #71447
gjcarving
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Location: Santa Fe, NM
Oddometer: 84
14t 41t Gearing. Pros and or Cons. And general Gearing..

Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #71448
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
Oddometer: 1,347
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I too like the 14t off road but the bike is buzzy if you have to ride the 4 lane for very long, if i have to ride 4 lane/ interstate for more than an hour or 2, then i put the 15t on, if you put the locking rear axle nut on and make a couple of reference marks on the rear axle cam for the chain adj and leave your counter sprocket cover off, the sprocket change goes pretty quick.

I have the Motion pro axle wrench/ tire spoon combo,i just grab it and the sprocket out of the tail bag, grab my T handle with 10mm socket and in a matter of moments its changed, a little bit of trouble but worth it.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #71449
LeDakaR!
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA
Oddometer: 432
here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/


Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Who did the rebuild?

TravelGuy
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:51 AM   #71450
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeDakaR! View Post
here is my problem, the rebuild was done professionally by a very good suspension shop, dakar provider to Jonah Street
http://www.superplushsuspension.com/
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #71451
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
Hello. I just switched to a 14t front with stock 42t rear. I REALLY like the low end zip and better off road manners but after 70 it seems to start being a bit buzzy and the motor sounds stressed a bit. Is it? Would love this set up if the DR had a 6th gear!!!! I would like to retain the 525 chain, and there are not many options for gearing. I was wondering if dropping one tooth off the rear to a 41t would give that little extra RPM drop I am looking for or would it be negligible? I ride all kind of styles with this bike and am trying to find optimum gearing as here there is a lot of on road/off road transitions and wish not to keep changing sprockets. Just trying to create my perfect for me Adventure bike. Any info and or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
I've swapped 14T and 15T sprockets using the stock 42T rear many times. I only notice a slight advantage off road ... but it is there.
On road I could still maintain a good cruising speed with the 14T on, never felt it was over revving or buzzy at indicated 75 mph (actual 70 mph). With stock gearing I maintain indicated 80 mph, pretty smooth.

I rode cross country and for the off road sections (much of Nevada and Utah) I used the 14T front. All good.

There are lots of small things to do to smooth out your DR650 at highway speeds. Little things add up to effect vibes and eliminate a rough "feel" at high speed.

I found the Pro Taper Alu bars helped with vibes from stock. Also, retaining all the stock rubber shock mounting in bars and pegs. Noticeable difference.

Drive line is yet another. New rubber cush drive inserts really help as do fresh chain and sprockets. Check all three bearings while you're in there.
A worn sprocket can make you think your clutch basket is shot or ... bottom end bearings are gone. New sprockets and chain work wonders for this. Bad or worn Hub/Wheel bearings also tranmit a rough feel that may be hard to pin point.

And finally, many diss the heavy Corbin seat. But it's density means it damps out a lot of vibes at higher RPM's. Less rider fatigue.

I can change between a 14T and 15T on the side of the road in about 15 minutes max. NO CHAIN adjustment needed at all on my bike. I never touch the rear axle to do this. If you know how, its a quick swap from one sprocket to the other. (Loc- tite on retainer bolts please)
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:13 PM   #71452
LeDakaR!
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA
Oddometer: 432
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Super Plush are well known among the KTM crowd in the Bay Area. But they deal mostly with racers ... not with bikes that actually get used hard for years and years. (KTM'S never last that long! )

I tried to contact them for fork work. They were never around, never returned my calls. I went to Catalyst Reaction instead. (on the Peninsula)
Fantastic result ... and they do shocks too!

My guess is if you tell SuperPlush the situation they will rebuild your shock again at NO CHARGE. Seems obvious. It's not like it's done 30K miles since their work was done. They owe you ... and if they expect their Rep to be maintained ... they should DO THE RIGHT THING!
Good luck ... and let us know how it goes.
they are super duper goodguys.
so email sent, will keep you posted.
i have a solo DV ride coming up in december, I need to have faith in this bike.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #71453
dogjaw
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,687
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
Thanks for that.

Did you notice an improvement over the stock rotor while using the 19" fornt wheel or did you fit the Galfer when you fitted the 19" wheel ?
Did the Galfer at the same time as the 19", so I don't have a valid opinion as to how it would have affected the 21", sorry...
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:51 PM   #71454
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Needs some opinions from my fellow DR inmates....

Have a 1999 DR with a grenaded case. Found a replacement bottom end at a salvage yard. Seeing as I am not quite sure how many miles might be on the bottom end I purchased, my original plan was to swap *everything* from the original engine and move it over to the new case. Now that I have it apart, I am not so sure it's worth the bother to split the cases, and simply move everything else over to the replacement. Anything you folks can think of that I should look for in making this decision? I'd really hate to not do it, then find out there's a bad bearing or gear in the replacement bottom end. Anything above the obvious I should be looking for in making this determination? Keep in mind I was an auto mechanic for 11 years of my life, so I am not completely oblivious to signs of normal engine wear. So far, I can't fault the replacement in any way, at least visually, performing some cursory spins, and looking for play in the rod, bearings and output shafts.







Something else has me a little stumped so I have another question. The grenaded case is from a 1999 model bike and did not have this washer behind the flywheel when I took it off.. Parts fiche shows it for 1999, and 2000, but not for 2001...I was told the replacement bottom end was from a 2000 model year bike. What's it doing there?



I rebuilt my 2009 last winter from the cases up due to a bearing failure. I got the numbers for all of them and ordered SKF bearings from simplybearings.co.uk. I sized them based on caliper measurements and what I could get from the fiche on sites like bikebandit. Over 9000 miles later is runs fantastic. My point: you have to go in there anyway, might as well do it all. Simplybearings prices are much lower than suzuki and for far better bearings. I think I spent 1/4 of what I would have if I bought OEM (especially the Chinese bearing I found).

You'll kick yourself if you go through all that only to have something fly apart. I know it would make me nuts.
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MADurstewitz screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 06:54 PM Reason: emoticon in wrong place.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:54 AM   #71455
buckrut1972
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Joined: May 2012
Location: New Kent, Va
Oddometer: 110
Front lights needed

I want to add some front lights to my 09 DR but need some help. From what little I know I do know I need low voltage ones. I see ADV Monster and Rigid Industries offer some nice ones but can anyone offer any suggestions on flood lights?
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:14 AM   #71456
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
I want to add some front lights to my 09 DR but need some help. From what little I know I do know I need low voltage ones. I see ADV Monster and Rigid Industries offer some nice ones but can anyone offer any suggestions on flood lights?
I have the Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle. ProCycle sells the same ones, called Solstice, for a bit less money, but they don't include extra wiring. I LOVE these lights. They're 10W each and are so good they almost make the headlight unnecessary. Highly recommended, just not cheap.

Rob
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:34 AM   #71457
dljocky
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 824
Rob,
How do you have them set up, do you have the option of running just one light if you choose, and what kind of switch do you have to run them? Is there a toggle on the back of each one?

Thanks
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:40 AM   #71458
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 4,258
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
I want to add some front lights to my 09 DR but need some help. From what little I know I do know I need low voltage ones. I see ADV Monster and Rigid Industries offer some nice ones but can anyone offer any suggestions on flood lights?
No, but if extra lighting for safety is what you're after, creating 'driving lights' so that the turn signals light up when not being used as turn signals is on my radar.

I haven't finished it yet, but I ordered the LED strips from ebay to install them in my DR650's turn signals.

I got the idea from this guy and his pictures on the Vulcan forums:
http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=28093

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:37 AM   #71459
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rob,
How do you have them set up, do you have the option of running just one light if you choose, and what kind of switch do you have to run them? Is there a toggle on the back of each one?

Thanks
The kit I got had the usual wiring harness with a switch and relay, so they run like any aux lights would on a car or whatever. I see no reason why you couldn't wire it up to run one light at a time if you wanted.

Rob
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:51 PM   #71460
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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where is everyone? 27 hours since a peep.
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