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Old 11-26-2012, 10:37 AM   #71476
Rob.G
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 1,959
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rob,
How do you have them set up, do you have the option of running just one light if you choose, and what kind of switch do you have to run them? Is there a toggle on the back of each one?

Thanks
The kit I got had the usual wiring harness with a switch and relay, so they run like any aux lights would on a car or whatever. I see no reason why you couldn't wire it up to run one light at a time if you wanted.

Rob
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:51 PM   #71477
Rusty Rocket
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where is everyone? 27 hours since a peep.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:40 PM   #71478
Lil' Steve
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Da Bronx, NYC
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Peep.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:06 PM   #71479
biosci
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Central WI 54473
Oddometer: 167
27 hrs

Peep, peep.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:09 PM   #71480
dogjaw
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Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,357
Waiting on UPS to bring my latest goodies from Jesse; Intiminators, TM40, oversize header, to finish the farklefest of the last year... I know, it's a sickness.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:41 PM   #71481
Ridin'nFishin
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Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 416
My new to me 01 DR650. Had a Corbin seat on it I don't like so I built my own.
Need some risers and then ride.







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Old 11-27-2012, 06:07 PM   #71482
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
where is everyone? 27 hours since a peep.
I'm just waiting to do an experiment on my DR....
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:45 PM   #71483
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
where is everyone? 27 hours since a peep.
Playing with my new toy

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Old 11-27-2012, 06:46 PM   #71484
sandwash
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Location: Flagstaff Az
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Where's the motor?
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:50 PM   #71485
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Where's the motor?
On the floor to the left of the kayak... Lol
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #71486
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,185
Less than $1k Suspension ?

For less than $1k, is there anything better than Racetech emulators and springs up front and Racetech shock shaft assembly and spring in the rear? This is for a Baja trip ~2k miles (mas o menos).
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:54 PM   #71487
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
For less than $1k, is there anything better than Racetech emulators and springs up front and Racetech shock shaft assembly and spring in the rear? This is for a Baja trip ~2k miles (mas o menos).
The net cost of my Ohlins rear and USD WP forks was under $1k after I sold the original stuff off.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:11 PM   #71488
rpet
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Location: Brooklyn, California
Oddometer: 737
I'm very close to owning a DR.

I have 2 questions:
At 6', and used to riding an XR250R (and DH mountain bike) and hoping to take this bike on either the TAT or CDT plus extra offroad touring credit next year, I am looking at RC High bars, Rox risers and high seat foam, plus an 18" rear wheel. Not looking to lower the pegs and reduce any ground clearance. Should that be an OK starting point for ergos?

2nd question: is a Q4 muffler fine or do I need to consider a header upgrade if the maximum performance mod I plan to do would be a carb, but probably sticking with just opening the airbox and replacing the filter. I'm generally skeptical on spending bones on headers if not overboring with cams, etc. I weigh 155lbs and pack light.

Great thread, but too much info to digest in a week (or a year).

thanks guys!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:16 PM   #71489
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
I'm very close to owning a DR.

I have 2 questions:
At 6', and used to riding an XR250R (and DH mountain bike) and hoping to take this bike on either the TAT or CDT plus extra offroad touring credit next year, I am looking at RC High bars, Rox risers and high seat foam, plus an 18" rear wheel. Not looking to lower the pegs and reduce any ground clearance. Should that be an OK starting point for ergos?

2nd question: is a Q4 muffler fine or do I need to consider a header upgrade if the maximum performance mod I plan to do would be a carb, but probably sticking with just opening the airbox and replacing the filter. I'm generally skeptical on spending bones on headers if not overboring with cams, etc. I weigh 155lbs and pack light.

Great thread, but too much info to digest in a week (or a year).

thanks guys!

You can progressively refine the ergos and find out. Lowering and rearsetting the pegs part way won't compromise ground clearance significantly, unless you use lowering plates. Cutting and welding the stock hangers is straightforward enough, or just making your own. The stock hangers are very tall. I can't comment on your exhaust proposal.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:32 PM   #71490
Rex Nemo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay
Oddometer: 286
I didn't like the loudness of the FMF Q2 pipe my new DR came with, so I did a little research on the innertubes, and got a cheap pair of 1st generation Hayabusa pipes in fine shape. I considered trying to fabricate a 3-hole flange and midpipe, but didn't have several of the tools I'd need.

So, I got the left-side 'busa adapter kit from Jesse at Kientech.



Closeup of the flange



I removed the FMF, loosened everything up, from the header bolts on back, loctited the bolts, attached everything loosely, lined everything up, and then tightened it down into place.

Mid-pipe mounting point



All back together, with Dirtbagz rack



The 'Busa pipe is longer and probably a pound/pound and a half heavier than the FMF, but the fact that it never needs repacking, as well as the quieter (though still raw and fierce, esp at higher rpms) exhaust note made me decide to make the change. Now I just need to find a way to get a spark arrestor in there...

Next, it was time for a dyno run.



I'd already dyno'ed the bike with the FMF, and here was the result. The green line is the new 'Busa pipe; the red line is the old FMF.



When I ran my stock-exhaust, mildly-jetted old DR, it got a whopping 32 hp at the rear wheel. With the FMF, it topped out at 35.15; the 'Busa pipe was ever so slightly less at the top end, with 34.82 hp. The surprise, for me, was the rather improved low-end torque with the 'Busa pipe. It's slightly less torquey than the FMF at 6-7k rpm, but has notably more oomph pulling away from lights, up hills, and is, ahem, easier to wheelie.

Bike has a stage 2 Dynojet kit with a stock 40 pilot jet, 150 DJ main jet, needle on 4th clip, Twinair filter, and Jesse's cut airbox. Header is stock.
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