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Old 12-05-2012, 08:45 AM   #71611
macrae85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I use a doubletake just on the legally required left side.
I like that the whole thing comes off, except for the mount ball, when riding off-road. I had one of these laying around and I helps
http://www.klr650.com/MrVibIso.htm
my mirror is solid enough to see behind when at speed.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:01 AM   #71612
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Chromesux, eakins, ER70S-2, sagebrushocean...
Thanks so much guys. I know the DR is an anvil. That's why it's the perfect bike for me. 'Cause I suck at this stuff. But I'm trying. Thanks for taking the time. I love this board for how we all try to help each other. I seriously couldn't put a dollar amount on how valuable the advice I've gotten so far has been to me!
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:14 AM   #71613
BenYork
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Controls on oversized bar?

Hello.

I am hoping that there is a simple answer to this, but my google-fu is not strong today. Been looking for over an hour. So here is my issue.

I have stock bars. I want to replace them, while at the same time installing HDB handguards etc. I would like 1 1/8 bars, but cannot figure out how much of a pain in the ass it will be to put all the stock controls back on to a 1 1/8 bar. I would like to get a ProTaper contour bar. I know that some bars are 1 1/8 at the middle, and taper down on the ends to fit stock controls.

SO. If I order a contour bar (1 1/8) from Paul, will I be fuckered when I try to put my stock controls on? If so is there an easy way to adapt controls?

I am sure this has been addressed someplace, I appreciate your patience.

BEN
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:45 AM   #71614
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
I know that some bars are 1 1/8 at the middle, and taper down on the ends to fit stock controls.
All 1-1/8 bars do this. If they did not taper nobody could install them.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:18 AM   #71615
BenYork
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
All 1-1/8 bars do this. If they did not taper nobody could install them.

Thank you. This would explain why this is a non-issue on the internet.

BEN
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:47 AM   #71616
MikeyP
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I use a doubletake just on the legally required left side. I like that the whole thing comes off, except for the mount ball, when riding off-road.
I'm just the opposite. One of the things I found handy about them is that because you can reposition them so easily on the fly that if I'm going over varying terrain where I might be sitting and standing equally often, I'll position one so that I can see behind me while I'm standing and the other for rear vision while sitting. This came in pretty handy for me when a group I was riding with had radio/sand/mechnical troubles and we really needed to keep each other in sight. Even when we weren't having troubles, if I was in the lead and standing I found it pretty handy to be able to glance down occasionally to make sure I saw someone not too far behind me.

I tried three other variants of the motor traditional mirror and the doubletake are vastly superior in my opinion.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:14 AM   #71617
mrprez
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, Al
Oddometer: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
Thank you. This would explain why this is a non-issue on the internet.

BEN
I just went through this. I had a hard time getting the choke thing on and ended up not using it. The clutch perch was also pretty tight but managed to get it all on there. HDB puts out a really great system. I'd order the bars from Paul as well and he will put the threaded inserts in for you. Saves you some PITA work there.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:03 PM   #71618
Feelers
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Oddometer: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Has anyone here experimented with this? It looks pretty interesting and I'm considering taking a shot at it. (After I get my front suspension sorted so it will handle better, or any, braking).
The orientation of the cylinders is pretty irrelevant - cross vs radial. Hydraulics aren't going to care about orientation, and the primary difference will be in the mechanical advantage of the user due to different leverages and forces. The primary differences are pivot length and bore size, and I'm pretty sure that retrofits from a bike with a cross-pump configuration with a shorter pivot length and larger bore would result in the exact same "feel" and braking power as these amazing new tech radial pump units. And, a retrofit would probably be 1/3 the cost.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:16 PM   #71619
PPCLI-Jim
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Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyP View Post
I'm just the opposite. One of the things I found handy about them is that because you can reposition them so easily on the fly that if I'm going over varying terrain where I might be sitting and standing equally often, I'll position one so that I can see behind me while I'm standing and the other for rear vision while sitting. This came in pretty handy for me when a group I was riding with had radio/sand/mechnical troubles and we really needed to keep each other in sight. Even when we weren't having troubles, if I was in the lead and standing I found it pretty handy to be able to glance down occasionally to make sure I saw someone not too far behind me.

I tried three other variants of the motor traditional mirror and the doubletake are vastly superior in my opinion.

I agree, I tried the stock , after market rectangular, a different folding design that was ok , but I prefer the Double Take. I have laid my DR down a few times since getting them and they have never failed to relocate themselves when it happens but they will still hold position when cruising down the road at ludicrius speed .
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:07 PM   #71620
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
Hello.

I am hoping that there is a simple answer to this, but my google-fu is not strong today. Been looking for over an hour. So here is my issue.

I have stock bars. I want to replace them, while at the same time installing HDB handguards etc. I would like 1 1/8 bars, but cannot figure out how much of a pain in the ass it will be to put all the stock controls back on to a 1 1/8 bar. I would like to get a ProTaper contour bar. I know that some bars are 1 1/8 at the middle, and taper down on the ends to fit stock controls.

SO. If I order a contour bar (1 1/8) from Paul, will I be fuckered when I try to put my stock controls on? If so is there an easy way to adapt controls?

I am sure this has been addressed someplace, I appreciate your patience.

BEN
As mentioned ... Pro Taper bars "Taper" at the grip ends so controls fit on OK. What you DO need to be aware of is your Bark Busters. Make sure they are for 1-1/8 bars. Where they clamp sometimes is on the Fat area, sometimes more on the thinner area. It's nice to have hand guards with some adjustability built into design.
My cheapo TUSK hand guards are good in this way ... but aren't that strong compared to premium brands. But only $40 or so ... instead of $100.

When going to a Fat bar you probably will end up with a Riser/adapter to fit the 1 -1/8" clamp onto stock cradle (for a 7/8" bar). Make sense? I bought the Pro Taper adapter which provides about a one inch rise over stock. You can go higher if you want with other "risers".


Pro Tapers before Bark Busters installed. Everything fits.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:59 PM   #71621
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
The orientation of the cylinders is pretty irrelevant - cross vs radial. Hydraulics aren't going to care about orientation, and the primary difference will be in the mechanical advantage of the user due to different leverages and forces. The primary differences are pivot length and bore size, and I'm pretty sure that retrofits from a bike with a cross-pump configuration with a shorter pivot length and larger bore would result in the exact same "feel" and braking power as these amazing new tech radial pump units. And, a retrofit would probably be 1/3 the cost.
Agreed. Bit like the 11 mm KTM/Brembo unit I fitted from the wreckers via eBay for $50. Well worth it, a definite improvement in feel and controllability, but no change in absolute power.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:16 PM   #71622
dogjaw
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,998
Quote:
Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
What make of disc is that?
19" is that way to go,the happy medium between road and dirt!
Tis a Galfer from Kientech; stops the DR like a champ...
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:43 PM   #71623
opium89
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Location: Hutto, Texas
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Bearing and Clip?

Can someone tell me what function this bearing serves? This is the stator/generator cover......

For some background, this was a grenaded 1999 engine. I have replaced the bottom end and was forced to buy the stator cover new. The parts fiche listed this bearing and a clip (28 and 29 below) that fits in the cover itself in the hole where the starter shaft will reside. The inside diameter of the bearing is too small for the starter shaft to fit in. The old cover did not have the bearing installed, but it was also missing a few other things due to an attempted and failed repair. Help me solve this little mystery and it should be running again by the weekend.



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Old 12-05-2012, 08:49 PM   #71624
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,167
Grifter - Did the adjustable Tusk handguard mounts fit your bars? I have tapered bars and the mounts won't fit around the "still tapering" section. They have mounts for larger bars but they don't have adjustment...plus it adds to the cost. I used some old large bar mounts I had laying around for the time being.

I like the adjustability of the standard Tusk mounts so I'll grind 'em out when I set time aside. I could use longer screws but the contact points 'tween the mount and the bar would be minimal.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:52 PM   #71625
Davis53
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Can someone tell me what function this bearing serves? This is the stator/generator cover......

For some background, this was a grenaded 1999 engine. I have replaced the bottom end and was forced to buy the stator cover new. The parts fiche listed this bearing and a clip (28 and 29 below) that fits in the cover itself in the hole where the starter shaft will reside. The inside diameter of the bearing is too small for the starter shaft to fit in. The old cover did not have the bearing installed, but it was also missing a few other things due to an attempted and failed repair. Help me solve this little mystery and it should be running again by the weekend.
I think it is the support bearing for the starter shaft and gear. Yes, you need it.
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