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Old 12-08-2012, 07:20 PM   #71701
Benduro
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: El Portal, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
'09 DR650 just turned 6K miles today and about 20 miles from home exhaust got a little bit louder. About 10 miles got a whole lot louder. Figured it was a crack somewhere on the head pipe as that where the sound was coming from.

Thought about stopping and worried a little about doing engine damage but had no other way to get home so babied it the last 10 miles.

WTF! The head pipe is broken clean off at the flange where it bolts up and there is about 1/2" gap 360 degrees, actually looks like someone cut it off with a rough blade hacksaw.

Is this a common occurence?

Only motor mods are opened up breather box with DT-1 air filter, Pro-Cycle jet kit, and GSXR1000 muffler with Kientech mid-pipe on OEM header.

Anyone have a spare oem header or is there a better option.

I'll have a spare stocker to send you as soon as I get the fmf powerbomb I ordered. Should only be another couple days before it gets here...
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:49 PM   #71702
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suguzzi View Post
You can grind the stock pipes' weld for somewhat more flow- which I did at first- but I really don't think it is worth the trouble for what you gain and the run the risk of going too far. I would never do it again in retrospect.
I have never bought that mod as legit ... and I never did it. That's one of hottest areas on the whole engine. Also, some guys put a jack up under the header to raise the front. With a thinner header weld ... might risk it further?

But must admit ... haven't heard of any other cracked or broken exhaust flanges to to grinding down this weld. So who knows?
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:11 PM   #71703
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I have never bought that mod as legit ... and I never did it. That's one of hottest areas on the whole engine. Also, some guys put a jack up under the header to raise the front. With a thinner header weld ... might risk it further?

But must admit ... haven't heard of any other cracked or broken exhaust flanges to to grinding down this weld. So who knows?
A jack under the header?
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:39 PM   #71704
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suguzzi View Post
When I did mine I used a die grinder with a with a carbide cone bit. If you take too much out it will leave the weld weak enough to vibrate crack. Once that starts it will break all the way around eventually. I ended up putting FMF Power bomb head pipe and Two Brothers mid pipe from Jesse at Kientech with my GSXR Can. Works great and the power bomb header has clearance at the frame down tube where the regular FMF oversize header does not. Good set up, very happy with the results.

You can grind the stock pipes' weld for somewhat more flow- which I did at first- but I really don't think it is worth the trouble for what you gain and the run the risk of going too far. I would never do it again in retrospect.
Hmmm....I seriously doubt the previous owner did any grinding. I bought the bike with 3500 miles and it was 100% stock at that time. I've not done any grinding nor have I ever removed or even touched the head pipe/flange.

I'll take some pics tomorrow and post.

Just curious as to why it would snap like that and whether or not this is a common occurrence. So far sounds like an isolated event.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:43 PM   #71705
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That's one of hottest areas on the whole engine.

But must admit ... haven't heard of any other cracked or broken exhaust flanges to to grinding down this weld. So who knows?
So is it possible that I'm running really lean and it cracked due to excesssive heat?

Bikes seems to run great and carb is jetted per instructions with the ProCycle jet kit.

It does have a lot of red/yellow clay caked on it from off-road riding, didn't really think I needed to wash it like the Harleys it shares the garage with.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:46 PM   #71706
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
So is it possible that I'm running really lean and it cracked due to excesssive heat?

Bikes seems to run great and carb is jetted per instructions with the ProCycle jet kit.

It does have a lot of red/yellow clay caked on it from off-road riding, didn't really think I needed to wash it like the Harleys it shares the garage with.
I would not venture a guess on this. I suppose it's possible ... but as I said above ... not heard about this happening. Hope you get her fixed up and back on the road!
Maybe another DR owner can compare your header area with theirs ... to confirm if ground down or not. That mod is on about 100 "first things to to on your DR" lists
1. Header Weld Grind.

So lots of riders do it. I'm just not convinced it makes a damn bit of
difference (in terms of power) and has potential to cause problems ...
maybe?
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:53 PM   #71707
BergDonk
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Header Failure

It might also be caused by forcing in some way your midpipe and muffler fitting. If it didn't just slide together, and had some pressure on it on assembly, it may have stressed the weakest bit.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:54 PM   #71708
Ren20
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guys, go check your NSU screws if you haven't. I just checked. one of them is so loose. I could turn it with one finger.

I did it without taking the clutch out. it was pain in the ass. they are now tighten and safety wired. I still consider myself lucky

bike has 7800 miles. 2001

Ren20 screwed with this post 12-09-2012 at 12:03 AM
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:04 AM   #71709
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Know nothing about machining. Are those welds "cleaned up" by hand or is it all mechanized?
By hand.
Before...


After...


Over 60% more surface area.
May be more prone to cracking on the edge of the weld, but I'm willing to risk it.

Oh, and that was 5 1/2 years ago.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:12 AM   #71710
eakins
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so what ever happened to the rally fairing Safari was building?
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:34 AM   #71711
Phreaky Phil
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
so what ever happened to the rally fairing Safari was building?
Have you seen this update
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822511
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:01 AM   #71712
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
guys, go check your NSU screws if you haven't. I just checked. one of them is so loose. I could turn it with one finger.

I did it without taking the clutch out. it was pain in the ass. they are now tighten and safety wired. I still consider myself lucky

bike has 7800 miles. 2001
What type of screwdriver did you use to get in there?

I have about the same mileage and really need to do mine.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:39 AM   #71713
greer
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Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

Sarah

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Old 12-09-2012, 06:33 AM   #71714
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

Sarah


good to know, need to do mine ASAP....BTW there is oil resistant threadlocker available, plan to use it when I do the job, especially if I don't remove the clutch basket

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Old 12-09-2012, 09:29 AM   #71715
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

Sarah

Thanks man,

any chance there is enough room to get one of these in there?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=31-59333379-2

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