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Old 12-15-2012, 12:07 PM   #71851
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you able to kill the idling engine by closing the fuel screw? How about by opening it?

If the surging on the highway continues after installing the 6F19 needle, we will need to determine precisely at what opening this occurs. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle opening with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!Install the stock white plastic spacer under the clip of the 6F19 needle. Do not install the d-shaped aluminum washer.

Regards,

Derek
I will add that I have found an exhaust leak going into the muffler from the pipe, went back to stock pilot and running 150 main.
without the dspacer will the needlt ride flat through the tunnel or try to cock to the side?
I am assuming I should start with the clip in the 3rd position?
thx Derek!
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:11 PM   #71852
Mambo Dave
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Edit - skip it, i bent it back

This nut-locking tab inside the clutch basket - bend it back, or should it somehow slide?


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Old 12-15-2012, 12:47 PM   #71853
motolab
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I will add that I have found an exhaust leak going into the muffler from the pipe, went back to stock pilot and running 150 main.
Fixing it is a good idea, but the exhaust leak at the muffler inlet won't really make any difference.

Once the 6F19 needle is installed, install a main jet that is known to be rich. Then keep reducing the size until there is a barely perceptible hint of a lean misbehavior during WOT operation. A main jet two to three sizes lager than this will be the most correct size you can arrive at without gas analysis on a brake dyno.
Quote:
without the dspacer will the needlt ride flat through the tunnel or try to cock to the side?
The needle will cock toward the downstream side as it should.
Quote:
I am assuming I should start with the clip in the 3rd position?
That should be fine. You should be tuning the clip position after the correct main jet has been arrived at anyhow.
Quote:
thx Derek!
You're welcome.
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:06 PM   #71854
opium89
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Just a guess, but you think maybe this is my problem? I'm pretty sure that jet was completely blocked off before I pulled the float cover off.



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Old 12-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #71855
bull600
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400,000km

Thought some might be interested in ninja97's latest update from the Australian DR650 thread

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Originally Posted by ninja97 View Post
Another milestone for the mighty DR. Clocked up 400,000 klm,s last week and the old girl is still going strong, not bad for an 05 model. She has had a few niggles along the way and quite a few new and used parts but hey i'm not complaining. The last rebuild at 360,000 was a biggie, it started jumping out of first gear so replaced all the driven gears, the barrel was worn out so a secondhand barrel and new piston and rings went on and splashed out on some original clutch plates and steel plates with new springs,i tried a EBC clutch kit but all it wanted to do is slip so was not impressed,originals lasted 170,000klm,s. Cam chain got replaced at 100,000 klm intervals and cylinder head and valves never touched apart from valve stem seals at about 300,000 klm,s It is a courier bike and gets ridden everyday in lovely Melbourne traffic rain hail or shine and thats in just one day Hot days cold days you name it,so it not an easy life but she still starts every time and still has the original starter motor. Fitted out with a few farkles like a IMS tank, pro tapper bars, staintune exhaust, b+b bashplate, had the suspension stiffed up with heavier springs and had to fit a tm40 because original carby decided not to play ball anymore. And it still has the original seat,it has been recovered because the stitching split but the foam is all stock, the only time it gets a bit painful is when it gets hot and you sweat or when the crutch gets wet from the rain. Best bike ever Suzuki
The highest mileage DR on the planet just keeps on keeping on

Cheers
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:41 PM   #71856
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Different subject but does anybody have any good ideas about getting the gasket off the cylinder for the cam chain tensioner? Gasket remover doesnt touch it.
Too late reading your post to help you, sorry. For others, I alternately soaked the OEM gasket in gasket remover, waited ten minutes, then used a flapper sandpaper wheel (80 grit comes to mind) with my Dremel. Took a few applications.

Worked quite well, no gouging, relatively quick, no stress; perfect cadence of work when combined with a beer at hand.

Lex
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #71857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I have my shock wound so tight, I'm afraid to tighten it much more, and the big dr still seems to have a lot of static/rider sag.
Maybe i should tighten it up some more?
I ride 98% rough asphalt in the local mountains, weigh 225lbs in street clothing. The OEM spring was adequate when tightened down to the max. Then I sold my KLR camper bike, needed the DR to start carrying camping gear; installed the heavier of the two springs offered by ProCycle, tightened it down a third, and am again content with the DR's suspension.

Lex
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:47 AM   #71858
blackcap
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for those using the TM40 pumper carb: whats the reliability of this thing like? seems i keep tearing through slides, slide guides and emulsion tubes on the BST. starting to feel like this set is done after only about 10 000km and the set before that was only about 20 000km. i replace them another 2 times and ill have enough money to go for the TM40. so how many kms do people have on theirs and what problems have you had?
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:04 AM   #71859
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
for those using the TM40 pumper carb: whats the reliability of this thing like? seems i keep tearing through slides, slide guides and emulsion tubes on the BST. starting to feel like this set is done after only about 10 000km and the set before that was only about 20 000km. i replace them another 2 times and ill have enough money to go for the TM40. so how many kms do people have on theirs and what problems have you had?
Have over 18k miles (you can do the conversion math to kilometers) on my OEM carb, haven't opened it up since I adjusted the fueling at around 500 miles by installing a washer and backing out the A/F screw. No problems with my carb. I do run Techron or that other similar fuel additive whose name escapes me at the moment through it every half year or so. And my carb slide gets lots of action, relatively little constant throttle usage.

Lex
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:09 AM   #71860
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Have over 18k miles (you can do the conversion math to kilometers) on my OEM carb, haven't opened it up since I adjusted the fueling at around 500 miles by installing a washer and backing out the A/F screw. No problems with my carb. I do run Techron or that other similar fuel additive whose name escapes me at the moment through it every half year or so. And my carb slide gets lots of action, relatively little constant throttle usage.

Lex
yeah i had no problems like this when i was in aus, but ive been in SE Asia for the past 12 months or so now and thats where ive been wearing through the parts so quickly. i was thinking it might be something to do with fuel here, who knows what they put in it (some people still put mercury in the cosmetics). im going to be in this part of the world and central asia/ the middle east for probably the next 18 months so wondering if the TM40 has the same wear issues or i can alleviate some of my headaches by forking out for the new carb. i dont know anything about the TM40 or how it operates.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:30 AM   #71861
TJWally
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Question 2012 DR650 Suspension

Hi just about to get a new DR650 again and I am going to be upgrading the suspension on this one as the dive under breaking with gear was far too much.

I weigh about 190-195lbs (88kgs) without gear. And I am looking at getting a 7.5kg/mm rear eibach spring and a .60kg/mm front springs with gold valves front and rear. I am sure this question has been asked many times but if you have any idea of whether that would be about the right weight springs or not I would appreciate it.

I will be setting the bike up for ADV riding and commuting - but happy to set it up more suited to dirt than blacktop.

And does anyone know what it would cost to get this done at HOEY racing (Australia)

Cheers,
TJ
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:36 AM   #71862
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Speaking of suspension, I'd like to hear from those who have cut their fork springs to gain some stiffness.

I've got to imagine that since the extra range of the springs is being substituted for firmness, that it becomes a tiny bit harsher for a given outcome than would buying new springs that are just as long as the stock ones, but made thicker.

Anyway, I can't quite see how cutting my springs to save money would be such a bad idea since I'm not creating a Baha racing machine here. The last bike I bought springs for showed me that aftermarket springs were often shorter, anyway, than the originals.

Mambo Dave screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 07:50 AM
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:37 AM   #71863
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJWally View Post
Hi just about to get a new DR650 again and I am going to be upgrading the suspension on this one as the dive under breaking with gear was far too much.

I weigh about 190-195lbs (88kgs) without gear. And I am looking at getting a 7.5kg/mm rear eibach spring and a .60kg/mm front springs with gold valves front and rear. I am sure this question has been asked many times but if you have any idea of whether that would be about the right weight springs or not I would appreciate it.

I will be setting the bike up for ADV riding and commuting - but happy to set it up more suited to dirt than blacktop.

And does anyone know what it would cost to get this done at HOEY racing (Australia)

Cheers,
TJ
I am about 20 lbs heavier than you and have similar plans for riding. I went with .70 fork springs and 8.1 rear spring, so I think you're about spot on. My suspension parts should be here next week so I have no experience with them yet.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #71864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Speaking of suspension, I'd like to hear from those who have cut their fork springs to gain some stiffness.

I've got to imagine that since the extra range of the springs is being substituted for firmness, that it becomes a tiny bit harsher for a given outcome than would buying new springs that are just as long as the stock ones, but made thicker.

Anyway, I can't quite see how cutting my springs to save money would be such a bad idea since I'm not creating a Baha racing machine here. The last bike I bought springs for showed me that aftermarket springs were often shorter, anyway, than the originals.
Why not just add preload, by using longer spacers? Keep your springs intact. It's easier to revert back to stock or to sell.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:05 AM   #71865
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Why not just add preload, by using longer spacers? Keep your springs intact. It's easier to revert back to stock or to sell.
Selling isn't a worry - most americans are frickin heavier than I am, so they'll need the extra stiffness.

I've read up on suspension enough to believe that preload is preload - it's either set right or it isn't. While it may change the spring rate a fraction of a percentage, it really isn't supposed to, and it doesn't make up for spring rate changes.

Adjusting preload with the end-goal of a quick and dirty rate change is sort of ... well, it just doesn't seem right.
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